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Severe stuttering at full throttle

9.3K views 28 replies 13 participants last post by  projectsmorol  
#1 ·
Some weeks ago I replaced my spark plugs. Everything went fine. I drove without issues for at least 2 weeks. After this the car started to stutter (flutter or whatever you call it) severely when pushing it hard at full throttle. I talked to my service guy and he suggested to look for vacuum leaks or jammed cable under the coil top cover. I removed the cover and checked all connections and cables to the coils and everything was fine. I checked the air pipes, specifically the over the engine pipe because I removed this when changing the plugs. I replaced the o-ring by the turbo since it was not tightening enough and jumped when tightening. After this, the car still stutters severely at full throttle. It's hard to explain, but it kind of sounds like driving with 4 flat tires and running out of gas. :)
I have no Check engine light and the only code that I can get out is that common MAF sensor code. I've had this several times before but it has not been the MAF sensor.
I've had the OTE pipe come off one time before but that just goes into limp mode with no power at all. This is different. The car runs fairly OK if I do not push it and just drive it like a grandma.i :)
Might have noticed a little more fuel consumption the past weeks.

What can be wrong?
Some R drivers here has suggested bad coils. My service guy suggest fuel sensor. Note that no diagnosis has been run.
I don't want to spend too much on just changing components just to find out that was not the issue.

Should I maybe just pay the $150 to have the diagnosis done?
 
#2 ·
If it’s stuttering like a misfire, check you’ve got the right, extra-long R plugs gapped correctly, if it’s surging/sputtering, check your fuel rail sensor. Cool packs are a good suggestion, too. Also, invest in vida dice, it’s worth it


2007 V70R Ti Grey Nordkap GT, 2008 C30R-Design Black M66
 
#7 ·
If it's stuttering like a misfire, check you've got the right, extra-long R plugs gapped correctly, if it's surging/sputtering, check your fuel rail sensor. Cool packs are a good suggestion, too. Also, invest in vida dice, it's worth it

2007 V70R Ti Grey Nordkap GT, 2008 C30R-Design Black M66
What can I see with a Vida Dice that I cannot see in a regular OBDII reader? Will this point me in the exact right direction or even to the exact part that is bad? For instance if it is the fuel sensor, or the exact coil that might be bad so that I do not have to go through all coils to see which one etc...
 
#3 ·
Sounds like coils or plugs and maybe if you go to auto parts store and have them scan it there might be a pending code. IF ends up being coils I have my low mileage stock ones somewhere you can have for cheap if you want. Good luck.
 
#4 ·
About the only time I've had that happen is shortly after I bought the car and I was running 87 Octane Gas.. First time I'd experienced misfire. So, make sure you're running 91. Otherwise, wrong plug length is a common mistake by R owners.
 
#9 ·
exact same thing just happened to me.
I replaced tons of stuff since there were no codes - plugs, coils, TCV, clean the MAF, cleaned the sensor on the intake tube by the turbo...

I think what fixed it though, was when I was replacing all the vac lines and rubber, one of the one way check valves under the intake manifold was completely busted and flowed both ways. I replaced that and all the rubber, and the stutter is gone.
 
#10 ·
What valve was that? Do you have any pictures where to find that?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I ended up taking the car in to my mechanic. He went through all vacuum lines and hoses and found no leaks, there were no codes at all in the system. He was not able to find it so I basically paid $145 for getting the information that it cannot be found. The stuttering is still there and it is choking when trying to accelerate hard. I've got into trouble a couple of times when I forget about it, changes lanes to speed up and nothing happens, ending up with people running up towards my rear and bonus when I'm going nowhere.
He said it might be the ECU that is broken and gave me a number to an auto ECU mechanic guy to diagnose the ECU.
Not sure what to do from here. 😞
Time for a new car maybe?
 
#17 ·
I ended up taking the car in to my mechanic. He went through all vacuum lines and hoses and found no leaks, there were no codes at all in the system. He was not able to find it so I basically paid $145 for getting the information that it cannot be found. The stuttering is still there and it is choking when trying to accelerate hard. I've got into trouble a couple of times when I forget about it, changes lanes to speed up and nothing happens, ending up with people running up towards my rear and bonus when I'm going nowhere.
He said it might be the ECU that is broken and gave me a number to an auto ECU mechanic guy to diagnose the ECU.
Not sure what to do from here. ?
Time for a new car maybe?
You say you replaced your spark plugs, what was the part number of the spark plug?
 
#19 ·
My bet is on your coils. I grabbed one from my old engine and replaced the first one starting from the passenger's side and drove the car. It got rid of the huge stuttering after the first full throttle mash. Just find someone that has used ones and try it out. I also had no error codes and was very slow at full throttle. Also, next time you go to a shop make sure they are experienced on mainly Volvo's since that was the first thing my Volvo mechanic suggested to me.

I have three used ones and someone above has some that they can sell to you for cheap so you should try that first. It is possible that it is more than one coil depending on how slow it is. For me it was just one coil and the first one I replaced.
 
#23 ·
I have the IPD HD coils. Can't remember what year I installed them though. What is the average life span on coils?
Since I have the IPD HD ones, can I mix those with other coils and it will work fine (if it is a coil issue, that is)?
 
#20 ·
Spark plug is correct, so next step is checking coils as pie_ya described.
 
#22 ·
Did you check the plug gap? For what its worth my car ran like crap on Denso swapped back to NGK and it was fine. It's the plugs or coils.
 
#24 ·
UPDATE: Finally I got this fixed. It turned out to be the coils (at least one). I heard IPD discontinued the HD coils, and someone also told me that they have a tendency to run the engine too lean. So I decided to make the swap back to stock coils and bought 5 used coils in good shape from a fellow Swedespeeder. Got some time today to change them, took it for a spin, and fluttering was gone. I almost forgot the power I had in this car after driving it like a grandma for a couple of months. :partywave:

Just very odd that this issue came up exactly a week after I changed my spark plugs, but I'm glad it's fixed.
 
#25 ·
A W E S O M E!:beer::beer::beer::beer:

I'd replace w/ all new OE eventually, the coil that was not numbered was bought new and others had 100k + mileage on em when I replaced w/ all new.

$240 on FCP for a set is very good price I think. You'll never worry about coils until 2025 assuming 20k miles per year. By 2030 gas powered vehicles will be outlawed here in CA or close to it so that should be last set of coils you'll need. Also Geely china who owns volvo is stopping production of all gas engines meaning bosch would follow suit if market become too small. However lots of older EU and ford manufactured volvos out there so maybe spare parts for decades who knows.
 
#29 ·
What boost are you running?


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