Not the battery, it's the ignition switch itself. You'll have to tear some of the dash apart to get the switch out. And, when I had my key stuck in the ignition, I had the break the key off in order to get the ignition switch out because it wouldn't fit through the backside of the dash. Oh, you'll also need a micro rachet to do the job. It's not fun. Just FYI.

 

I had the same problem with the same model, if you flip back and forth a few (or several) times hopefully you'll get it back to 0, I then loaded the keyhole with wd40,let set for a few minutes and now it works fine, and I know what some are thinking but the mechanical parts and electrical parts are separate

 

Thanks for the reply. So I just got home and the weirdest thing happened.
I checked the car and the key was still stuck, trunk wouldn't open, all of that. The key was turned to the first position. I hooked up jumper cables. Red to good car then right when I hooked red to my volvo it brought my car back to life. The good car wasn't even started yet.
So I know connecting them creates a circuit and all but now my car starts and everything is working. I'm letting it run at the moment but I haven't tried to replicate the problem yet.

 

I had the same thing happen to me almost two years ago when we bought the car ... it was the battery. Last month I was finishing up some detailing to the car in the garage listening to some cd's for about 45 min and the next day the car was slow to start. Pulled the battery and took it to check at Advance Auto, had a dead cell. Got a replacement but only one year left on the orig 36-mo warranty, so next battery will be an agm. Something about these cars doesn't like leaving the parking lights on or running the stereo on battery, at least that's been my experience. Never had that with my P2's, or even my previous P80's for that matter.

Edit: I run a 48H6 on non-premium sound.

 

How long are the OEM batteries supposed to last? I think mine has a 2012 sticker on it so it's 4 (possibly almost 5) years old at this point.

 

Pretty sure the key getting stuck has nothing to do with the battery. When my alternator kaput'd my battery the key still came in and out, just didn't do anything because the charging system was shot. When my ignition went south and the key got stuck, I could still start the car no problem. I actually drove the car around for a week or so until the new ignition showed up in the mail - I know, super dangerous, but I had to pull an engine fuse everytime I left the car. It was a PITA. I guess what I'm saying is, change the battery drive for a while but just know that at some point you're probably going to be looking at a new ignition switch.

 

General experience AFIK is that Volvo batteries last a long time ~8 yrs or better. BUT, when the start to go, everything (windows, stereo, locks) goes crazy.

 

That's a good heads up.
Is it weird that I couldn't start the car like you could though? It was completely dead until I connected the red terminal this like instant CPR the radio turned on (it was in position 1), key came out and seemingly stronger than ever. I took it to auto zone and the battery check out 100%. So that's consistent with what you said.

 

You could have a bad cell in your battery, or you didn't connect the terminals well. Hard to say.

 

I dunno ... like I said when my first battery died the key got stuck. I remember it clearly because I was worried to leave the car parked where it was because the key wouldn't come out and I couldn't lock the door either, but then again I thought the battery's dead so who cares lol. Not trying to say it's not the switch, it could be, just saying what happened to me.

 

sounds like the key popper connection on the ignition switch.
I did a write up a couple years ago and I am still using that ignition switch to date... not sure what happened to the pictures though...
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?208568

 

I remember reading that thread when my ignition died, but your write up was to clean up the contacts (right?).

 

I actually never cleaned my contacts. I checked the circuit with a multimeter and it was incomplete. I bent the contact arms to provide more tension on the terminals.
Over time they deformed/lost their tension, not completing the connection when the key was in certain positions.
Easy fix and done for free, hardest part is that top torx screw in the dash.

looks like photobucket is down at the moment, hope the pictures come back.

 

Okay, but how do the contacts interact with the key lock? And, how the **** do you get the key and ignition out as a unit?

 

^^
Hit the end of the key turn it to position 2 and back keep tapping it until it pops and releases the key.

When you turn the key to get it out of the position, one of the contacts initiates the key popper portion to release the key. That contact obviously isn't completing its circuit.

 

where were you 6 months ago

 

^^ I had the same issue couple times, in some of my videos I have the live occurrences documented. I agree with the parts being separate, but still questioning putting lubricant in the key hole (how well sealed everything inside there is). I have been fine since those occurrences (one 7 months ago, one two months ago). and have not added any lubricant. just gently back and forth with the key until it releases. And once I heard weird electrical sounds under the glovebox before it released lol