The major problem is you'll be feeding the lights a lower voltage. A low pass filter (what your looking into) will average the voltage, so between 0 and 13.2 depending on the pulse width. (Im a bigger fan of RC filters capacitors are much easier to work with)

What you need to do is make the low pass filter. Then run a relay off of that, w the other end of the relay to the battery.

Now thats all very elaborate but will work. Or you can take the switch and bypass the ecu, by running a relay directly off the on setting of the switch. (the interior lights are controlled by the light sensor so there are minimal downsides)

Everything triggers the light out warning.

 

Re: (zerocover)

Quote, originally posted by zerocover »

The major problem is you'll be feeding the lights a lower voltage. average between 0 and 13.2 depending on the pulse width. Everything triggers the light out warning.

PWM engages only when the voltage exceeds 13V. So at 14.5 volts the duty cycle is around 90%, averaging back to 13V. But even if I'm wrong, the ballasts are rated from 9v-15v, so it should be sufficient. The relay would probably a better idea, but I don't want the BULB OUT warning.

Could you explain why you prefer RC filters better? I know inductors are more expensive and a lot larger than Resistors. Any other disadvantages?

Also, I'm a little nervous about voltage spikes/feedback to CEM or other components(wipers). I was thinking of maybe putting a diode, but i'm not sure if that's a good idea with PWM. Doesn't it use some of the feedback to calculate the current draw and duty cycle?

 

It uses the feed back to determine if the bulb is out.

Good point on the ballasts being rated for it, I wasent thinking 35 w (im going for 50w).

Resistors are cheaper and pretty much indestructible. I trust a block of ceramic to a coil of wire. Cheaper and no possibility of RF interference. + it does the same thing.

Dont worry too much about the voltage spikes there not that bad, esp if you have a capacitor to smooth everything out in the system. Our electrical system is very stable.

 

Re:

Ok. Finally got the meter and the Frequency of the PWM signal is 82.3HZ

I also decided on using RC filter. Now, I've got a few questions: What order filter should I use and what cut off frequency should I use for my filter?
This is where I get confused. How does the filter equalize the voltage, and how do I choose the proper value for R and C?

PWM Frequncy 82.3 HZ
load= approx 3.07 ohms(55w @ 13v)

 

Re: Re: (rushin_max)

rushin, can i ask what were the symptoms when u installed ur HID? ive been having some issue with mine.

it worked fine for a few hours, then one side started flickering then went off. now, the installer can only get one side to work but not the other side. if he swops the ballast etc, then the other side starts working but the opposite side doesnt.

he said it could be some voltage variation in the ballast, so he has sent them back to factory to get them to fine tune it. we tried using resistors, that didnt work.

 

Well. It seems like I got the lights working. I simply connected a capacitor in parallel before the load to form what's called "transient load decoupling capacitor". I couldn't find too much info on RC filters or the decoupling. So I just went to my local electronics shop and picked out 4700mFD 50v as my test. Hooked it up, works perfect. Works with DRL on or off, and w/car running(finally) + no bulb out warning and no extra resistor(weird). However, the light didn't turn on the first try and I'm guessing it's because of the time it takes to charge the cap. Once cap is charged, it discharges very slowly so the ballast gets sufficient voltage to stay on. I still want to figure out a better way of filtering or filling in the PWM valleys, but for now I'll just drive around with these caps and see if they give me problems. Pictures coming soon....

 

Sounds like this fix:

http://300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=5954

 

Re: (genjy)

Oh, snap

I wish I saw that earlier, would of saved myself some time reading. Oh well, at least I learned something.

Those are exactly the same Caps I chose(except mine are 50V), I guess I got lucky with the farad rating.
Well, looks like case closed. Somebody beat me to it, with pictures and everything. Even looks like the harness I got

This might be helpful:
http://www.fuzion.co.uk/support/Calcs/filtcap.htm

 

So, can you describe every piece for you HID kit that you have (Harness, bulbs, capacitors etc and where everything went)? I really want to get HIDs but I want to keep everything stock and still have them working as in keeping the DRL turned on. And where did you get your kit from and is there any foreseeable problems with having a capacitor inline such as battery drainage or anything you can think of? Also pictures would be a big plus too! Thanks for working this out for us!

Dwayne

 

Your basically using the resistance of the HID kit as your resistor.

If the frequency was less you would have needed a capacitor inline to make the discharge time longer. If you notice any flickering its a good play to drop the resistor inline, or just get a stronger capacitor. The math is strait forward. time (to 66% discharge)= Resistance*capacitance.

Sweet work on the hid setup. Gotta give you props there. What color did you go with, are you satisfied with what you got? PICs!!

 

Re: (S40DaB)

Quote, originally posted by S40DaB »

I really want to get HIDs but I want to keep everything stock

It's going to be pretty hard to keep it stock. It's likely that will be drilling a 1" hole on the removable backcovers of both headlight assemblies to feed wires through.

You can always order a spare pair of backcovers, though.

 

Oh, I didn't realize that there would be drilling for wires involved but that isn't too big of a deal. Mostly I am just concerned about keeping the DRLs enabled for safety's sake. I see you have an 08 C30 Genjy. I was considering going with that but instead I got the 08 S40 T5. Have you started looking into modding yet? Most of the guys I have talked to said parts will fit into 08 like they do the 07 and earlier. But like I said drilling holes into the backcovers isn't a problem.

 

Re: (S40DaB)

Quote, originally posted by S40DaB »

Have you started looking into modding yet?

Not really yet... I just added a pair of 55w 6000k HIDs a few weeks ago, and did some easy OEM-type modding a few months ago (OEM Euro reflectors and cruise control).

My next mod is 35w 3000k (yellow) HID projector foglights. My car doesn't have factory foglights, so this is going to a bit of research and part gathering.

Chipping will come after the warranty runs out.

 

4 year 50k miles so not for a long time before you chip?

 

Re: (S40DaB)

Quote, originally posted by S40DaB »

4 year 50k miles so not for a long time before you chip?

Yeah, my C30 already has 11k, so it's not going to be too long.

I don't want to chip my car now and then get my warranty service denied if my car gets that PCV blow-by problem some (many?) S40 T5s are experiencing.

I can wait for a couple more years for the serious mods... I tend to keep my cars forever.

 

...hey, had a quick question;

What the hell is the second light for on our head-lights(the one next to the projector light) Is it for limp home function? I tried to switch between parking lights/drl/low-hi beam, nothing.

P.S. sorry I havn't posted any pix yet, still working on it

 

Are you using any wire harness besides the OEM one?

 

Re: (rushin_max)

The second light. You mean the high beams. Pull back on the stalk you use for signaling. Inside the high beams you'll also find a city light (its always on)

 

So it has been 2 days of running HID's with those caps, and today the wipers went out(again). I don't understand what caused it. The only thing shared is the ground. The CEM doesn't even power the wipers, it uses LIN to control them. For some reason CEM went all wacko and switched wipers full blast. Kept going without the key in the ignition(weird). Ended up dying 20 min later. Ive read a few people had the same problem, any ideas why it happened? Could it because of the current spike with initial start-up for the ballast?

So I guess it's back to the drawing board. I'm abandoning the idea of hooking up through CEM(clearly, its too sensitive), and go straight for the battery. Now I just need to figure out how to switch the relay. I dont want to use bulb connector anymore, or anything else that uses PWM, so that leaves me w/ign. switch or possibly fogs(need to check signal specs).

P.S. Anybody had any luck with those bulb out eliminators from sharpHID? Anybody know what they do, or how its made?

 

My cancelers work fine... no error message, no flickering.

A week after I installed the cancelers, there was some rain. I didn't notice any wiper abnormality.

 

Re: (genjy)

Quote, originally posted by genjy »

My cancelers work fine... no error message, no flickering. A week after I installed the cancelers, there was some rain. I didn't notice any wiper abnormality.

are you running a harness from the battery, or are u running straight from the CEM? Any idea how the cancelers work?

 

I see quite a few people with these cancelers. Anybody have luck on s40s.

Is there someone brave enough to open one up and see whats inside?
I dont want to get some cancellers only to find out that its a simple capacitor in a box.

 

Re: (rushin_max)

Do the pictures of the bulb out harness on the sharphid website tell you anything? I'm not into electrical stuff so I have no idea...

 

$40/pair at sharpHID.

Just the price makes me suspicious. If it was truly some sophisticated piece of equipment, I dont think it would be this cheap. My guess its probably a simple RC/LC/RLC filter.

Our capacitor harness has recently been replaced by a new Computer Bulb Out Warning Harness which combines the function of the capacitor harness plus some other features designed to further correct issues that we run into with newer cars.

I wonder what they mean by other features?

 

Re: (rushin_max)

Quote, originally posted by rushin_max »

are you running a harness from the battery, or are u running straight from the CEM? Any idea how the cancelers work?

Just bulbs, ballasts, and cancelers. No relay harness.

The lights actually wouldn't turn on if they had both the relay harness AND the cancelers.

http://popnow.en.alibaba.com/p....html

I think they are capacitor in a box.