I had Zimmermans on the front of my last car. They worked well. Only drove with them for about 10k miles before someone totalled the car, but they held up to some hard braking (Street driving only) with no signs of warping.

Current car has Volvo rotors (age unknown) which seem to not get quite as rusty on the braking surface on rainy days as the Zimmermans, but feel as though they may be ever so slightly warped.

 

I did powerstop drilled and slotted. $50-$60 per on Rockauto. Haven't warped on me yet and are zinc coated so far no issues with rust.

 

I too went this route - 30k miles and no problems yet. a little surface rust on the rotor hat but eh.

 

I have used Zimmerman, Brembo and Powerstop Slotted. All performed very well without warping. The Zimmerman with the zinc coating works well to keep the rotors looking fresh. The Powerstop slots worked very well with Hawk HPS, having great stopping power hot or cold. The slots do make a little whirring noise when coming to a stop. I believe this is typical.

Flat discs with Hawk HPS are ok when cold but the pads perform much better when warmed up. Very little dust.
Stoptec Street Performance pads performed great at any temperature with flat rotors but were incredibly dusty. I think they reformulated since then.
My present V50 has Volvo rotors and Volvo pads. Performance is very good and very little dust.

 

My Volvo rotors warped after 20k km will be swapping them out with something in the spring. Volvo pads were great new but they kinda have some sponge to them now but it could be slop caused by the warped rotor(s).

 

I’m a fan of brakeperformance.com slotted and dimpled. We had a VW Croutan that are notoriously under braked (size) and put them on that. Had zero issues in about 30k miles. I also have them on my S80.


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I'm currently running R1 concepts drilled and slotted front and rear with powerstop pads and no problems so far. I will suggest checking the caliper(s) to make sure nothing is sticking and everything is in good working order.
Also hub to rotor mating surfaces should be cleaned up good as well. In my experience warping rotors are usually the result of another issue not the rotors themselves.

 

In my experience warping rotors are usually the result of another issue not the rotors themselves.

x2

fwiw; I came over from the Land Cruiser world, the 80' series wagon seemed to have a lot of reported rotor warpage, even with new installs, and what the general consensus came around to was that they often get over torqued when being installed (especially when done by a shop using a pneumatic torque gun's)... Even if the torque gun is set to the proper torque setting, they tend to over-torque.. And many DIY mechanics can easily tackle a brake/rotor job but may not have the proper torque specs so things get over tightened...

 

Has anyone used Adam's rotors ? I believe they have posted on this forum before.
http://www.adamsrotors.com/

I like how there are so many options. This is probably my next purchase for the car besides new speakers.

I am just unsure of the actual quality.

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Adams rotors is actually on the forums here. He'll tell you they're top notch, I have no person experience so I don't have much of an opinion on the actual product.

 

Just to add my 2c - I went for plain, coated Brembos with nothing fancy on them, and paired them with ceramic ATE pads. done 13k miles on them so far, no problems at all, and I do tend to use them heavily with my driving style.

 

ceramic ATE pads

Ate makes a ceramic pad for the 320mm front brakes? Part number?

Is there a rear pad too?

 

I used Centrics (I believe they're the high carbon variety, for what it's worth) from Rockauto and Akebono pads all around when I did the brakes on my V50 last year. I haven't had any problems with warping and I have the 320mm fronts.

 

No one has tried the Meyles?

 

I have a set of the Meyle Platinums on my V50 front and rear. Got 'em on a most excellent sale from FCP Euro and very happy with them.

I have them paired with Akebono ceramic pads f/r, may consider trying the Ate's now that I know about them (but it may be quite a while before the Akebono's wear down!!).

BTW, in my experience our rotors don't warp spontaneously. They warp because apes use pneumatic tools to tighten the wheels. I use a torque wrench on mine, and ESPECIALLY after any time the car comes back from any service at all. Never an issue.

 

I've had no issues using Bosch quietcast rotors.

 

I'm about to order some rotors here soon. Not a necessity right now. But I'm looking for something that will look good while having good performance. I may get these.
Alright rotors like brembos have the gap in the middle for that extra cooling of the brakes. Which these don't have. Although i don't think I drive to the extent I would need those cooling fins.

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Why are they so much more than regular rotors that are what...$60 a piece? Is it because they're solid?

 

Not sure. Those are zinc coated, and slotted and dimpled. Could be why they are more. I think most with add ons are around that price

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Rotors that don't warp?

Brakeperformance.com?

If so they are also garenteed not to warp.

All front rotors for your car will be ventilated type (fins in between). Your rear rotors are probably "solid" (no fins).

I am very happy with their rotors, have them on 3 vehicles. They are noisy though, so be warned.

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Brakeperformance.com?

If so they are also garenteed not to warp.

All front rotors for your car will be ventilated type (fins in between). Your rear rotors are probably "solid" (no fins).

I am very happy with their rotors, have them on 3 vehicles. They are noisy though, so be warned.

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Yep! Oh the front will have fins? Cool!

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Just in use, they make noise because of the slots and dimples. I have them paired with Akebono pads. It’s almost growl like when you get on them.


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Just in use, they make noise because of the slots and dimples. I have them paired with Akebono pads. It's almost growl like when you get on them.
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Yep...when you go more than about 50% braking power, they give a little rumble you can hear and feel. Otherwise they're unnoticeable. That being said they have already saved me once where OEM would have put me into the side of someone (the intersection by my neighbourhood has at least 1 accident a week and at least 1 death every 4-6 months because people don't pay attention and tralala their happy asses into the roadway).

 

Replaced my rotors and pads with Zimmerman rotors and brembo ceramic. Nonstop squeaking since. Anyone else have bad luck with these?

 

I would try some Disc Brake Quiet. The squeaking is almost always from the pad vibrating. It just happens to do it at a frequency that you can hear. Applying some of this "pad goo" in between the pad and the caliper/piston usually dampens it sufficiently to eliminate the noise. Some people put it on every time. Personally, I only use it when there is a noise issue.

 

Still getting severe brake squeaking after the application of the anti squeal and after giving the pads some time to wear in.

Also getting a clicking from the caliper and feels like my new rotors are warping again.

Any thoughts? The left side is significantly worse than the right, however the fact that the right does squeak a bit makes me think it is the pads themselves?

 

Still getting severe brake squeaking after the application of the anti squeal and after giving the pads some time to wear in.

Also getting a clicking from the caliper and feels like my new rotors are warping again.

Any thoughts? The left side is significantly worse than the right, however the fact that the right does squeak a bit makes me think it is the pads themselves?

If you did not bed them in properly, they will squeal no matter what you do. Did you bed them in properly?

 

You are using the correct wheel torque spec right? Mechanic torqued my wheels to 100ft.lbs and it seemed to have warped mine. I re-torqued to 81ft.lbs and most of the wobble has gone away. I need new rotors regardless.

 

Update - steering wheel and brake pedal shake violently when braking.

Think this is beyond any warping.

What else could cause this?! Getting it looked at ASAP but wanted to hear some thoughts.

 

Could be suspension related. Bad LCA bushings can cause a click or bang when brakes are applied abruptly and can cause shake. Worn tie rod ends can cause shake.

 

+1

 

Did this ever get resolved? my front end has been making all kinds of noises, squealing when braking at about 40%, and a wobble when braking at about 60%. i also feel the car has a staggered motion when applying the brakes during a roll - feels like a bald spot on the rotors where its not catching.

 

Just a suggestion based on my experience with PowerStops. Thought I'd followed proper break-in procedure, but after a few thousand miles they began to vibrate under braking. Pulled front rotors off, gave them a thorough polish with electric drill turning a Scotch-brite disc. Reinstalled, followed break-in steps again: no more vibration.

These 320 drilled-slotted rotors do give a sort of moan when braking hard from speed, but they don't vibrate, and they stop the car very well.

686Sport - still chasing the elusive 50 mph wobble under acceleration

 

drilled/slotted rotors DO NOT stop your car faster. in fact, they stop your car slower under 99% of circumstances. there is less brake surface for the pads to contact due to the holes and slots. any feeling you get that your car stops faster is due to the fact that the brakes are new compared to the old ones you replaced or a placebo effect. drilled/slotted rotors only help to stop the car when the brakes are used excessively such as in aggressive driving or on a track. they dissipate heat better than flat rotors, making their performance stay more consistent when they get hot.

'warped' rotors are often misdiagnosed, as 686Sport is eluding to. material build up on the rotors can be uneven due to driving habits or brake caliper wear and can feel just like a wobbly warped rotor.

i really find it hard to believe the volvo rotors are just warping on their own due to bad quality - i'd speculate something else is wrong on the cars (or driver habits) that are showing repetitive vibration symptoms.

 

Im taking it to brake masters tomorrow for an inspection to see what they say, has anyone ever had their rotor resurfaced? - i dont have a grinder to do it myself but the price seems to be about the same as a new Ebay pair.

 

Oh ~ Ford It ~



Volvo got Redesigned by Ford and Ford brakes are built to Light also ..

You could have Brake Pad Build up on Rotor a ( Glazed on Layer )

These thinner Rotors that Ford placed on many of It's Re_Designed models just Heat up quickly and the Air Cooling Isn't ~ Balanced Enough Across Rotor or through the Center section ..
Hubs are a Bit Light for this HD Duty these Cars see .. ( T.I.R. Run out ) on the Hub could make Rotor be Off by .002 at Outside Edge .. Also ( Don't Know about You but I'm able to Feel .002 ) in Rotor ..
Then there's Surface to - Hub Interface to Rotor - gets Corroded Way to Fast ( Any Corrosion ) is Build Up - any Build Up is throwing Rotor Off ..

Last but Not Least - this Warp Rotor - thing thing seems to Follow certain Vehicles more then Others , I have tried Soft ware Up dates - that - Supposedly Balanced the ABS & Rear Brake Proportionally to Reduce Warping
Only Marginally Improvement .. ( I Believe ABS Balancing Module ) Where all the Lines Tie in has Unbalanced Opening in some Units 8K out of set Rotors is Lame ..

Wilwoods helped this some , but After Market Full Floating set up is only Way to Fully get a Handle on Issues at Hand and have Very Good Brakes ..

SS Lines help some also as those Pull back on Pucks more .. Hey Just My 5 Cents ~ Given more then Plug Nickle

Example : Warped Rotors on T-Bird - took 45K Hard Driving
Warped Rotors on F150 - Never Happened ever .
Warped Rotors on VW CC Driven Harder then Volvo 65K
Other Older Volvo's 40K-70K ~ able to Turn those and Go another 30K with New Pads
Honda Brakes have been so Hot they were Smoking - No Warping ..

Big Difference in Design in all these 1. Thickness in Rotors 2. Hub & Supporting Spindle

 

I wouldn't bother with resurfacing. The likely issue isn't warping, it's that the heat has actually created harder/hardened steel in spots and that's what your feeling. Also
Another factor is lug nut torque. If you're not using a torque wrench to get equal torq they'll warp.