Wow this forum is dead. Anyway, anyone know what type of lubrication should be used on the rubber seals and gaskets on the roof? Is there any particular spots that need attention? Does Volvo sell something specific for this or is there a substitute? My 3 year / 36 will be ending soon and I would like to be able to do this myself.

Yea, what JonC70 said!
I,m at 66,000 on my 2007 (new 12-2-2006) But I have the 6 yr / 100,000 mile.
I kind of remembering asking my dealer about this when it was still a puppy, and if I member right, they told me it didn't need any lube, BUT I think they may do something at my service intervals.

OH YEA! What JonC70 said..........this forum IS DEAD, let's keep it going.

 

i am having this constant annoying noise on the rubber seals on my 1 year old, and although still under warranty,and been in several times for this problem, the dealer says they can't hear anything [ can't be bothered to do anything about it]. So i thought i might put a bit of WD40 on it after i wash it and see what happens.
I also payed £386.00 [$591] for its first service, so you can imagine i'm not impressed at all with Volvo.

 

If your car is only 1 year old didn't you at least get the 3 year / 36,000 miles free scheduled maintenance? I think this was standard offer. Should not have cost you anything. I think it is up to 5 year / 50,000 on 2010.

 

no, JonC70,
as i said, so far not impressed with Volvo in general.

 

there are bulletins and information to dealers about this. Yes, there are point to grease on service. Note the roof in these cars can be stopped part open (take finger off button) and the design gives good access to service points. Re noise from rubbers, again advice to dealers on treatment and lubes to use.

 

Keep in mind that the material that acts as a gasket or seal between roof panels, and between the top of the windshield header and the front roof panel, is not really rubber. It's some sort of flexible vinyl or plastic that is bendable and somewhat compressible, but less "squishy" than rubber or neoprene. For some reason I seem to think that all that is required on these is just keeping them clean with a damp cloth. (But I could be wrong.) On the other hand, the seals around the side windows, along the top edges of the windows, as well as between the main door windows and the little side windows behind the doors, are a more typical rubber.

For the poster above, I wouldn't put WD-40 on any of the seals. I'm not sure what the right thing to use is, but WD-40 seems like it might harm the seal material (at least that would be my concern).

I know that VW has a specific seal treatment product that they recommend for their Eos model's roof and window seals. But most of the discussion about the VW seal treatment was in reference to stopping water leaks!

I've never seen any mention of a specific treatment or dressing product for the C70 roof seals, but perhaps there is one.

 

Keep in mind that the material that acts as a gasket or seal between roof panels, and between the top of the windshield header and the front roof panel, is not really rubber. It's some sort of flexible vinyl or plastic that is bendable and somewhat compressible, but less "squishy" than rubber or neoprene. For some reason I seem to think that all that is required on these is just keeping them clean with a damp cloth. (But I could be wrong.) On the other hand, the seals around the side windows, along the top edges of the windows, as well as between the main door windows and the little side windows behind the doors, are a more typical rubber.

For the poster above, I wouldn't put WD-40 on any of the seals. I'm not sure what the right thing to use is, but WD-40 seems like it might harm the seal material (at least that would be my concern).

I know that VW has a specific seal treatment product that they recommend for their Eos model's roof and window seals. But most of the discussion about the VW seal treatment was in reference to stopping water leaks!

NO - What's Used on Refrigerator Door Seals is Pledge for Dusting , WD-40 has way to much Petroleum - Plus it has several Contaminants in It .
Their - Dry Oil is a Safer Bet .

 

I saw Pat Goss on Motorweek TV show do a segment on this. With top partially open, use silicon to lube all rubber seals (windows, doors, etc.). If in spray can, spray into can top and use a small clean rag to wipe onto rubber (do NOT spray directly on rubber). For top seals CLEAN only, removing dirt/dust. For top joints and pivot areas, use white lithium grease. Again, if in spray can, spray a small amount into can lid and use a small brush to apply to joints. This is the process I use every month or so, and it seems to work for me.

 

Worth a sticky note? What say you oh Grand Poobah Moderator?

 

Just watched the Pat Goss short that I dvr'd and he recommended a clear lubicant (Silcone???) for the joints because the white lithium is to messy. There is a TNN that the roof should be serviced/lubed every 15,000 mi. My dealer, although very good, did not know about this so I took him a copy. Seals should be cleaned very well and coated with silcone. A must before cold weather. No WD-30. BTW, EOS are reknown for there roof leaks

 

TNN18-01-2006-09-12 I'm not sure if I did that correctly. Nope scan didt'n make it

 

The manual says the cleaning agent is Volvo part number 1161721. The lubricant for the seals is part number 1161840 and the grease for some specific points is part number 1161778. I was able to get the lubricant and grease but was advised that the cleaning agent is no longer available from Volvo. Once it gets warmer, I want to clean and lubricate the roof. The manual says it should be 20C or warmer. Anybody have any suggestion on what to use instead of the Volvo cleaning agent? The lubricant and grease cost $151 and should be enough for lifetime of the car. My dealer quoted me $350 to do the job! The dealer has his supply of the cleaning agent. I guess he got it when it was still available! But they will not let know what a suitable replacement is, since they want to perform the maintenance. They said that using non-approved chemicals will void my warranty. If it comes down to it, would soap and water serve as a suitable "cleaning agent"? I don't think soap and water would be a non-approved chemical?

 

That's great info. Dealer has said Volvo says I need no maintenance which I have said that's crazy. Pat Goss said use silicone spray on the joints. Have used silicone on the rubber bits. Keeps me up to date, thanks...

 

Do you know what the lubricant and grease are primarily made of? Petrolium jelly, lithium grease, silicone? I am getting near the end of my warranty and will soon need to do this myself rather than pay the dealer. My guess is that the stuff is pretty generic and Volvo charges $150 for it. I have used dish soap in the past to clean the seals of dirt with no ill effects.

 

The grease is labeled as 'High temperature grease (-50C - +210C). The lubricant is Perfluorated oil.

 

Perfluorated, I thought that was boxes. Just kidding. How you liking that new car??? Get the tune and you will be amazed, 40 more HP. Getting my DP put in Tuesday. Think I'm the only tuned C70 in the USA. Too much fun surprising other cars...

 

To keep rubber/plastic seals supple i use Einzett 1z gummy pflege. This should be used on a semi annual basis to maintain the elasticity.


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Twice yearly I silicone (commonly available CRC brand) all the rubber seals on both cars, like someone said WD40, would be harmful and CRC white lithium for all door hingrs, etc. W/out harm. We tell the kids all the time that if they were'nt around mama would have a C70!

 

Stuvo, I am really liking the car. The seating position is great, gives a good sporty feeling when combined with the M66. The open air feeling, because of no side window pillar, with the top closed is also great. The car handles a lot flatter with the stock suspension than either my S40 or the old C70. However the Kumo all season tires that are on it don't give the greatest cornering grip. The Dynaudio system is wonderful. It doesn't have as good as subwoofers of my old C70, but the overall sound is cleaner. Both the old and new C70 sound systems are superior to any other non-Volvo factory system I have listened to. Beats the Bose system that was in Audi A4's hands down!

Tried to install my tune this past Saturday, but freaked out when after the installation the car would not start with an immobilizer error. Fortunately Don (Elevate) and the boys at Autotech provided a recovery program over the weekend that got my car going again. I have a 'corrected' tune to try today when I get home.

By the way my servicing dealer (OH) says the roof should be cleaned and lubricated every 36,000 miles or 3 years, indicating it was in a service bulletin, while the dealer (WI) where I purchased the car says they follow the policy of 60,000 miles or 4 years and did not know of any service bulletins. This must be a dealer to dealer service issue. I have yet to find if Volvo has a formal policy on the roof.

 

Glad to here another person has the M66 and a tune. I think were the only ones with a tune in the USA. Makes the car too much fun mesin with people that have no clue what this T5 will do. Downshift and jump and say by, by to most cars... Have fun...

 

Finally, got the Elevate/Autotech tune installed. Peter at Autotech did a fine job. I haven't fully explored the performance envelope as I just filled the tank with 89 octane gas. I will wait until I fill-up with premium gas to get the total impact. But as of now, with the Stage 1 tune, there is a significant improvement with the acceleration, seemingly near that of my old C70!

 

What was/were the problems?

 

Yep, your car will jump with the tune and stick. I figured even with the crazy gas prices, it's like $ 3 - 5 more a tank full but I think it's worth the price for the power gains and grins. Got my DP put in yesterday. Having too much fun with good weather and top down.

 

It must be nice to have good weather. In Ohio for the past 4 weeks, it has been either raining or cold or windy or all three! I think that there has only been two nice days in the period and I spent one of those days putting in the Volvo GPS mount for my Nuvi (dumb move, I should have took advantage of the weather that day) and that was the only day that I had the top down! Oh well summer is coming!!! I think!

 

Does anyone know how to put the convertible top halfway? I've never really stopped halfway and I am afraid it might get stuck in there.

 

Just take your finger off the switch mid cycle. I clean and lube the seals once or twice a year (which reminds me, I’m overdue to lube the mechanism).

 

Conventional wisdom is that when you restart it you should keep going the same way as when you stopped it... so if you were opening it and stopped at the halfway point you should continue to open it all they way, not close it, or vice versa...

 

Also, when opening the top, make sure that you are on flat ground (or near flat) and beware of the wind! If you think it might be too much... It is.

Tedders
Drive Laughing!