My 21 V60 PE has paddles and I wouldn't incur any significant costs to retrofit. The transmission is my only complaint about the car - it's just not sporty and the computer takes over too soon and too often when in manual mode.

 

Thanks for your reply. I still can't seem to find a kit to retrofit paddles onto the standard non-paddle s60 wheel.

Also, I've heard the PE is supposed to alter shift points / make them faster, is this not true?

 

It's sporty enough in auto mode, but if the Polestar's paddles are supposed to be be better than standard... well, yikes. In fact, I'd rather not even have them - just reminders of their inadequacy.

I don't mean to waste your time and I know I didn't have a meaningful response to your question, but if it's an expensive job, I'm not sure the value is there.

 

I have paddle shifters on my R Design Volvos. Never use them.

 

it's really not worth it, not only would you have to source the parts you'd have to get the dealer to program it which they may or may not even do

 

There is not enough known as to how easy this is. Typically steering wheel control are all multiplexed on a few wires so always possible that it is rather easy if plugs are there, programming is present in modules, trim pieces and paddle switches are reasonably priced...those are all "Ifs" and my experience so far with Volvo is if your car doesn't have something...it's likely the wiring is not there and the modules aren't programmed for it. It's like they put in extra effort to make it hard ha. Use the manual shifting with the shift lever...and ask yourself if that is really worth it to have the paddle switches...

 

Volvo,is not the only one. I wanted to add a heated steering wheel to my Suburban. Would require a new steering wheel and clock spring with the wire to plug into the harness. I can't get a GM dealer to make the changes since GM will not sanction the upgrade.

 

You can bought wheel with paddles install and activate VIA VDASH

 

Hello ! Could you confirm it ? The local dealer said it needs a special software module but that cannot be downloaded or installed cause the car model is not compatible.

 

It's hard to get specific info out of the d5t5 guys, but the bits and pieces I've picked up is it's all harder than it seems. This isn't like buying VAGCOM and going to town on your Audi. To even make any config changes to your car you need to unlock the CEM and/or the ECM. You are most likely dealing with the CEM. Unlocking the CEM used to be a DIY process that VDash handled by brute force cracking the code you need on older Volvos. On an SPA car, it requires the CEM unit be removed and the flash program on it copied out and then the code is gotten out of that somehow. All VDash says is you need to take it to (1 of 3 in the US) VDash PRO dealers to have this done. There is also a way to sniff the communication when a dealer does an update (likely steal the code sent to unlock the CEM for changes) but I don't know how involved that is or how cozy you need to be with your dealer techs. Or perhaps possible you can subscribe to the top level of VIDA, get the software connected to your car, and purchase a software update yourself and sniff the code, which is possible for US owners to do directly.

Once you clear that hurdle, it seems that there are two types of "configurations": the first is a binary type of enable or changing a feature, like the speed limiter. You just change it and it is done. The second type of change is modifying your car configuration, i.e. you change an "option" so something your car did not originally have, like say B&W stereo, you can change that so the car reports to Volvo it has this option. When you do this you are not quite done yet...you need to either get a software update, or the module you are trying to work on, needs to be reloaded, to get the proper software to do the thing you are trying to do. Those software reloads have to be purchased from Volvo, either pay a dealer or pay for VIDA, get the software working on your laptop and buy the reload and load it. The example of the B&W stereo, there is a thread in the S90 forum, some guys swapped the B&W speakers and amp. They get some of the B&W settings in the Sensus just plugging the amp in, but they don't have some features like the "Gothenburg Hall" and other sound settings. Not until their CEM has been changed to have the B&W option, and then they get a software update or pay for a module reload will that work correctly.

I looked into this when I thought it might not be too bad to add the "high level illumination" feature to my car, so I could swap the door harnesses and plug in the missing various LED units and enjoy. But once I realized I need to remove my CEM, in order to use VDash to change the option, and then pay for 4 reloads of each door module software...just became not worth it.

Every time I see one of these threads talking about changing stuff with VDash, it seems there is someone who is reading the d5t5 website and just reciting from the price list. Killroy do you have actual experience with the process? If I am missing something and it's easier than I am understanding, it would help us all out to clarify!

 

Killroy do you have actual experience with the process? If I am missing something and it's easier than I am understanding, it would help us all out to clarify!

Hi, Yes.
Retorfitting TFT on P3 plaform, addig some futures on SPA/CMA platform. (shift paddles, roadsign assist and etc)

 

I found it under "Gearbox" menu (probably they moved from experimental to gearbox with the latest update). The thing which surprised me is that you have to pay for each configuration change (in case of pedal shifters it's $109). I'm new to Volvo world, but i've been extensively working with Mercedes and Jeep platforms where such things are free. $109 sounds a bit steep.

 

OK so how did you get the CEM pin? Is this like a secret or something why does nobody want to talk about how it works lol.

 

Hi troops, Did anybody add a steering wheel with shift paddles to their SPA car? I have taken a gamble and bought an R-Design steering wheel from an XC60 in the hopes of fitting it to my V90CC. I have also ordered a DICE clone from a well rated supplier on Aliexpress so I am hoping I'll be able to use Vdash to perform the reconfiguration. Is it just the wheel, DICE and Vdash I need? Or do I need an extra wiring harness too?

 

I've not done it but I am considering it.
There is a video from one of the VDash people about doing it, see here. Sadly it doesn't give much detail on how it's done, other than giving confirmation that it is possible.

I don't believe you need any additional wiring. If you are a perfectionist then it looks like you can replace the lower trim on the new steering wheel with a plain one that doesn't have the R Design logo on it. I haven't managed to find a part no for this yet (I am a perfectionist )

I look forward to hearing how you get on, especially on the VDash side.

 

I've seen in VDash, one of the main changes you can make on the car, is "add paddle shifters" so that means the d5t5 people have that worked out. With all of the networked stuff in the car, it's not likely any wiring will be needed. Either it's an input that's already wired, or it's CAN or LIN bus based data over existing network.

You will also need to get a VIDA subscription at some point so you can go through getting your CEM pin into VDash.

Non-sequitor but...people say these computerized cars are a nightmare...that might be true, but on the other hand I was putting my door panels back together from the lighting upgrade and noted the driver's door window switch unit which has: 4 window switches, plus auto on all, mirror adjustment and folding buttons, and the child lock, with illumination on all and indicator LEDs. All that and the plug to the switch has...just 3 wires.

 

I've seen in VDash, one of the main changes you can make on the car, is "add paddle shifters" so that means the d5t5 people have that worked out. With all of the networked stuff in the car, it's not likely any wiring will be needed. Either it's an input that's already wired, or it's CAN or LIN bus based data over existing network.

You will also need to get a VIDA subscription at some point so you can go through getting your CEM pin into VDash.

Non-sequitor but...people say these computerized cars are a nightmare...that might be true, but on the other hand I was putting my door panels back together from the lighting upgrade and noted the driver's door window switch unit which has: 4 window switches, plus auto on all, mirror adjustment and folding buttons, and the child lock, with illumination on all and indicator LEDs. All that and the plug to the switch has...just 3 wires.

Any insights on how to get this cem pin? It seems to be an unspoken nod and wink between those in the know.

 

I didn't realise the wheel lower trim could be replaced. Have you a picture or link of an example? I will do that if possible.
The price for adding steering wheel paddles on vdash is listed as €109 which is expensive but worth it I hope. My steering wheel is already heated which removes a lot of complication I believe.
I will report back when the parts arrive.

 

I didn't realise the wheel lower trim could be replaced. Have you a picture or link of an example? I will do that if possible.

See here for one example of the trim on it's own -
Genuine Lower Trim for 2016-2021 Volvo | Part# 31455733 | Over 30% Off All Genuine Volvo Parts & Accessories | Volvo Parts Counter

I've found multiple part numbers but they all say 'with R Design'.
The reason I think a version must exist without the R Design logo is that the video I posted earlier seems to show it being changed. When the new wheel comes out the box it has the logo on it but later it can be seen without the logo. Also, the V60 Polestar Engineered has the same steering wheel as an R Design but it doesn't have the logo, so it would make sense that there's just two versions of trim.

 

Yeah I think some were worried perhaps, myself included ha. Follow my process "To set up and program with VDash: "in this post:
Adding "high level" illumination to a 2019...

You won't need to buy the support plan and ask for the experimental functions in VDash, as the paddles are a standard config thing. But you might anyways if you want to see the full menu if what can be changed ;-)

 

Yeah I think some were worried perhaps, myself included ha. Follow my process "To set up and program with VDash: "in this post:
Adding "high level" illumination to a 2019...

You won't need to buy the support plan and ask for the experimental functions in VDash, as the paddles are a standard config thing. But you might anyways if you want to see the full menu if what can be changed ;-)

Sorry I missed this reply. Thanks for the info. It seems to me that Vida cannot be used in the same way outside of North America. I will try to set up an account using a VPN but I suspect it will catch me out when I connect both my dodgy dice or non-US car....If I even get that far. Vdash want €249 + VAT for the CEM pin crack and another €122 to enable the paddles.

 

I thought about that, I know the US is a bit different, due to the right-to-repair laws here. I think if you buy a software update outside the US, you have to go through a dealer? Module reloads cost real money, but the "total update" is $0.10 and the config test is $0.01 so you got some cheap options to run a procedure that allows VDash to snag the CEM pin. In the US you can buy the software directly though, so all done in a matter of minutes. Perhaps going through a dealer for the same is a hassle, or not ;-) It's certainly a pain to send off your CEM to be read on the bench!

 

As far as I understand the CEM can be cracked by vdash through the OBD socket via a dice. It's €249 + vat though which is over €300 before any configuration changes are made.

So how does vdash pull the CEM after I get home from the dealer? My car has been upgraded to service 2.0 previously but this hasn't allowed vdash to see the CEM pin.

 

On the SPA platform, the CEM pin can't be "cracked" by VDash. So that option is not available.

However, VDash can somehow get the CEM pin, on a computer that has VIDA on it, where VIDA has been used to run a software load or other software procedure. It might be kept in a log file or something, they don' reveal how that's done. You just open VDash on the same computer and CEM changes are enabled.

So you see it's not anything in your car, it's on the computer where VIDA has been used for a software update, that the CEM pin is retrieved.

 

Thanks you for that excellent explanation. I will see what can be done about using vida. I'm not hopeful.

Even if I asked the dealer to do a total software upgrade they would just tell me to come in and they would do it on their own vida computer.

 

I have what might be a silly question... The photograph below is from vdash with my car connected. On the list on the left of the page there is a button called 'unlock VEA'. When I click it I get the screen below that seems to tell me that the unlock will cost 249. What will this unlock if not the CEM? The ecm maybe?

 

As far as I know the pin decode for CEM was for P3 platform only: CEM PIN - car configuration

The VEA unlock I think is for the ECM pin. That has to be done on the bench (ECM out of car) with a special cable, and it only works for the older ECMs, sometime in 2018 or 2019 Volvo switched to a new model that has not, as of yet, been "cracked" to be able to tune or retrieve the pin code. VEA unlock - tune - DENSO

 

 

Honestly, you dont want to do this. The transmission is so bad and so slow that you will immediately regret going through all of this effort. There is a VERY significant delay from when you pull the paddle to when it actually shifts. There are some throttle tricks you can do to try to mitigate this but overall it is a frustrating experience that highlights what is in my opinion the absolute worst part of these cars.

 

Literally posted a flavor of this, then realized the internet is about doing stupid ****, so it is what it is.

I'll track the progress just because it's interesting. Should be easy enough to hack and pull signal from the microswitch in the transmission shifter for +/-.

 

Interesting feedback on the shifting delay. How long are you talking, a second or more?

I want to use paddles (and manual mode) to be sure it doesn't shift mid way through a corner and to have it in a low enough gear for coming out a tight corner. The auto is fine for most roads but (like most) it stays in too high gear for twisty stuff, leading to a jerky downshift as you accelerate out the corner.
I've tried manually shifting on the shifter but it just doesn't feel right moving it sideways to change gear. The manual shifts on the shifter weren't as fast or sharp as the dual clutch gearbox in my last car, but I don't remember it being prohibitively slow. I'll have to try it again, please don't tell me that changing with the paddles is slower than changing with the shifter?

 

this will never shift like a dual clutch gearbox... ever.. to be honest, it feels faster to shift with the shifter.. that might be because of the travel time of your arm, instead of a simple button press on the steering paddle.

 

I finally managed to enable the shift paddles.
I just bought a whole R-design wheel and fitted it. It was easy.

I like them and I'm glad I did it. The shift happens at the same speed as when you use the gear lever in manual mode. Not fast like a dsg but it works. I've been using it to overcome my biggest peeve (on a long list) about the gearbox - the approach to a roundabout. When you need to quickly pop into a gap in traffic on a roundabout the gearbox is always in the wrong gear. Now I just pull the left paddle once or twice approaching a roundabout or merge junction and I'm ready to shoot if I need to.

 

The paddle is always active i.e. you go down a gear in D and it will go down? Or you have to put the shifter stick to the left of D before?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

That's right. Put the car in D and drive as normal in fully automatic mode. Then when you want to drop a gear you just pull the left paddle and she drops and the gear number appears on the dash even though you haven't moved the gear lever into manual mode and the car is still in D. If you don't use the paddles for maybe 10 seconds, the car defaults to auto and you don't see the gear number any more.

It works fine. Just as I expected. I wish it would stay in 'paddle mode' a bit longer though instead of defaulting to auto because when it defaults back to auto, it also changes back to its preferred - too high - gear.

 

That's right. Put the car in D and drive as normal in fully automatic mode. Then when you want to drop a gear you just pull the left paddle and she drops and the gear number appears on the dash even though you haven't moved the gear lever into manual mode and the car is still in D. If you don't use the paddles for maybe 10 seconds, the car defaults to auto and you don't see the gear number any more.

It works fine. Just as I expected. I wish it would stay in 'paddle mode' a bit longer though instead of defaulting to auto because when it defaults back to auto, it also changes back to its preferred - too high - gear.

NICE! What were the different parts you needed to get (wheel, paddels, wiring harness?), and what did you need to do on the programming side? I have a 2021 V60 T8 and really missing paddles. I was thinking of just getting the Heico Sport Steering wheel with the paddles, but I'm guessing I'll need to get the wiring harness. Heico Sport Steering Wheel, Volvo S60/V60, S90/V90, XC60/XC90