Do you use Regular or Premium gas in your Volvo XC60? And why?
HowwwwL
Try both - a few tanks each. It would not harm - for sure.
Let us know, if you see any difference...I bet - not, but curious to hear from you...
I keep using premium only (91 octane in CA) based on what the owners manual states. It says that Volvo recommends premium fuel for best performance, and that Volvo engines are designed to get their rated HP, torque, and fuel economy numbers using premium fuel. This is for 2010 XC60 T6.
I realize that I probably wouldn't notice the difference if I used regular, so I should try it out. Then again, every time I pull up to a gas station, I think to myself I'll get regular next time (while I'm filling up with premium)!
I realize that I probably wouldn't notice the difference if I used regular, so I should try it out. Then again, every time I pull up to a gas station, I think to myself I'll get regular next time (while I'm filling up with premium)!
The car doesn't require it but it is made for it.
If the engine ECU is dialing back a bit due to lower octane you will get inferior performance. This is what the manual states. I would bet that not every regular octane fuel would lead to this, especially in a new vehicle. Over time it might get worse.
I'm doubtful you'll see significant mileage differences but I'm pretty sure you could feel a noticeable difference in performance.
Premium only for me. The $ is negligible. $5 per tank more.
If the engine ECU is dialing back a bit due to lower octane you will get inferior performance. This is what the manual states. I would bet that not every regular octane fuel would lead to this, especially in a new vehicle. Over time it might get worse.
I'm doubtful you'll see significant mileage differences but I'm pretty sure you could feel a noticeable difference in performance.
Premium only for me. The $ is negligible. $5 per tank more.
And if you have 2 cars x 3 tanks every week x $5 = $30 per week = $1500 per year...I can find a better use for those money than literally burn them...
It was discussed N x 100000000 times here on SS. The basic physics say that the engine operates under less stress (that's what lesser performance actualy means) on regular fuel. So unless you drag-race all the time, a small reduction in HP at lower RPMs will not be noticeable. The only issue is a knocking under the spirited acceleration. I can hear it in my 3.2 S80 in CA summer and run it on Premium, I run XC90 V8 on regular, as it has an abundance of power.
That is why...try it yourself...and do not listen to any BS that is created and backed-up by the oil lobby...the higher the grade, the higher the profit...that's for sure...
It was discussed N x 100000000 times here on SS. The basic physics say that the engine operates under less stress (that's what lesser performance actualy means) on regular fuel. So unless you drag-race all the time, a small reduction in HP at lower RPMs will not be noticeable. The only issue is a knocking under the spirited acceleration. I can hear it in my 3.2 S80 in CA summer and run it on Premium, I run XC90 V8 on regular, as it has an abundance of power.
That is why...try it yourself...and do not listen to any BS that is created and backed-up by the oil lobby...the higher the grade, the higher the profit...that's for sure...
Even though Volvo says I can put regular in my 06SR I use premium because I've experienced knocking under hard acceleration when I use regular. I'm guessing the T6 on the XC60 would be similar, but will reserve final judgement until I try. The price of fuel doesn't make a huge difference to me but I also only have to fill up about 2x per month.
It seems to me that the compression ratios of both the 3.2 and 3.0 T6 are low enough to not warrant the use of Premium fuel.
Premium has ignition inhibitors as part of the formulation that high compression engines need. The inhibitors stop premature
detonation in high compression engines. The ECU (engine control unit) is smart enough to advance or retard the dwell based
upon the fuel being used as well as other variables such as RPM, knock and O2 sensor information.
Lower grades, have less ignition inhibitors and thus are easier to in theory "Start" the engine, especially in cold weather.
Here in Connecticut we can get 93, 91, 89 and 87 grades. When I get my T6 in April, I will start out with 87 and see how it performs.
Just my two cents, I have two old muscle cars that need 93 + octane booster, so I do know about this subject.
Premium has ignition inhibitors as part of the formulation that high compression engines need. The inhibitors stop premature
detonation in high compression engines. The ECU (engine control unit) is smart enough to advance or retard the dwell based
upon the fuel being used as well as other variables such as RPM, knock and O2 sensor information.
Lower grades, have less ignition inhibitors and thus are easier to in theory "Start" the engine, especially in cold weather.
Here in Connecticut we can get 93, 91, 89 and 87 grades. When I get my T6 in April, I will start out with 87 and see how it performs.
Just my two cents, I have two old muscle cars that need 93 + octane booster, so I do know about this subject.
Quality Fuel verses Octane rating?
I have the T6 AWD, and like using the 87 now so that I can go up to higher octane later in life if needed - say after 100k or if I ever notice a knock.
Also, mostly when manuals talk of "premium fuel" they mean quality (not crap - though it is really hard to gauge this and you often have few choices and no real way to check).
My Volvo shop swears that I should only use Chevron or BP or Shell etc. (not Costco, or ARCO or other bargain places). He showed me valves out of a plus 100K car that only used Costco fuels for the life of the car (which were very dirty with build up) and then that of a Chevron user (that was clean).
Could be bull but this is the real dilemma because 87 octane at Chevron costs about the same or more than 91 at Costco,...
So do I go for the quality brand 87 that has the additives and cleaners, or the higher octane at Costco?
I have the T6 AWD, and like using the 87 now so that I can go up to higher octane later in life if needed - say after 100k or if I ever notice a knock.
Also, mostly when manuals talk of "premium fuel" they mean quality (not crap - though it is really hard to gauge this and you often have few choices and no real way to check).
My Volvo shop swears that I should only use Chevron or BP or Shell etc. (not Costco, or ARCO or other bargain places). He showed me valves out of a plus 100K car that only used Costco fuels for the life of the car (which were very dirty with build up) and then that of a Chevron user (that was clean).
Could be bull but this is the real dilemma because 87 octane at Chevron costs about the same or more than 91 at Costco,...
So do I go for the quality brand 87 that has the additives and cleaners, or the higher octane at Costco?
In looking at my earlier reply perhaps I was a bit too flip...
If you are driving in high altitudes or in very hot weather, then perhaps upping your 87 (regular) octane to a higher octane would be a good choice.
Here in New England and at about 10' above sea level, we do not have either condition.
The southern coast of the USA, pretty hot in the summer along with Arizona parts of CAL and NM, TEX.
Rocky Mountain states.... pretty high.
If you are running in those areas then perhaps upping a grade or two would be of benefit.
Heat and altitude change the way that gas vaporizes... in a negative manner.
More prone to knock so you need the ignition inhibitors provided in higher octane fuels.
Lastly, the fuels in my area (I can only speak for those) are all pretty clean and uniform.
Some may have more detergents in them.
I for one run my current autos on SUNOCO or BP or SHELL with never a problem.
Dirty fuels and even clean ones do leave residue on the tips of the fuel injector nozzles....
if that happens you may get somewhat poor vaporization of the fuel...
So to thwart that, Once ever other month I drop a large bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner with TECHRON in the fuel tank.
I do this with about 1/2 tank of fuel. This stuff cleans your injectors really well.
Not very expensive either.
If you are driving in high altitudes or in very hot weather, then perhaps upping your 87 (regular) octane to a higher octane would be a good choice.
Here in New England and at about 10' above sea level, we do not have either condition.
The southern coast of the USA, pretty hot in the summer along with Arizona parts of CAL and NM, TEX.
Rocky Mountain states.... pretty high.
If you are running in those areas then perhaps upping a grade or two would be of benefit.
Heat and altitude change the way that gas vaporizes... in a negative manner.
More prone to knock so you need the ignition inhibitors provided in higher octane fuels.
Lastly, the fuels in my area (I can only speak for those) are all pretty clean and uniform.
Some may have more detergents in them.
I for one run my current autos on SUNOCO or BP or SHELL with never a problem.
Dirty fuels and even clean ones do leave residue on the tips of the fuel injector nozzles....
if that happens you may get somewhat poor vaporization of the fuel...
So to thwart that, Once ever other month I drop a large bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner with TECHRON in the fuel tank.
I do this with about 1/2 tank of fuel. This stuff cleans your injectors really well.
Not very expensive either.
I just starting putting in 87 as of the last tank. Will see what the MPG says and also will report back on any issues. So far, have not noticed anything noticable under normal driving situations as far as performance or car behavior.
You can track my progress here: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/gassyshawn/xc60
You can track my progress here: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/gassyshawn/xc60
I just start using 89 octane, I've always run chevron 91, but with price of fuel, 3 full tanks and no difference in mpg, no knock, when it warms up here in california I'll switch back, for now all ok on a 07 volvo 2.4i. When I purchased the car the salesman advised ok to run mid grade as long as you don't abuse the car, no hot rodding.
"Only 1 mpg" can mean different things. It's highly amplified at lower mpgs.
In my car, I'm currently averaging 16.7 mpg on premium at avg cost of $2.948 (my 2010 #s).
If I drive 10,000 miles in a year - that's (lets round to) 599 gallons. $1766 total spent.
If the regular costs me 1 mpg so I average 15.7 mpg:
I would use 637 gallons to go the same 10,000 miles.
Let's assume $2.648. Gas would cost me $1687.
Let's assume $2.548. Gas would cost me $1623.
$79-$143 difference for the year. $.0079-$.0143 per mile.
Run those same #s at higher mpgs - like in the mid-20s and it means a whole lot LESS $ difference. But down in the teens, the $ saved is negligible.
In my car, I'm currently averaging 16.7 mpg on premium at avg cost of $2.948 (my 2010 #s).
If I drive 10,000 miles in a year - that's (lets round to) 599 gallons. $1766 total spent.
If the regular costs me 1 mpg so I average 15.7 mpg:
I would use 637 gallons to go the same 10,000 miles.
Let's assume $2.648. Gas would cost me $1687.
Let's assume $2.548. Gas would cost me $1623.
$79-$143 difference for the year. $.0079-$.0143 per mile.
Run those same #s at higher mpgs - like in the mid-20s and it means a whole lot LESS $ difference. But down in the teens, the $ saved is negligible.
I was making no judgements - and I didn't miss the point. I've done comprehensive record-keeping & testing on all my vehicles for years and I've noticed no change in mileage due to octane PROVIDED I used what was specced for the vehicle. I tried higher octane in an attempt to get better mileage - nope. I've tried lower octane and didn't see a decrease.
What I often noticed was a change in performance. Especially running lower octane in a car that wanted high.
My math still stands. Even with exactly the same mpg, you're looking at $200 for the year for 10,000 miles (my mileage). At better mileage, like someone who commutes on the highway a lot, that # is smaller.
We're driving $40,000 vehicles. Spend the chump change and run it like it wants to be run.
My $.02
What I often noticed was a change in performance. Especially running lower octane in a car that wanted high.
My math still stands. Even with exactly the same mpg, you're looking at $200 for the year for 10,000 miles (my mileage). At better mileage, like someone who commutes on the highway a lot, that # is smaller.
We're driving $40,000 vehicles. Spend the chump change and run it like it wants to be run.
My $.02
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