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PSA: Don't delay evaporator repair

2.7K views 12 replies 11 participants last post by  VOR506  
#1 ·
Moral of the story:
If you SPA car has been diagnosed with the infamous evaporator leak or any leak in the system, get it fixed as soon as you can afford it, the longer you wait, the closer you get to full system replacement, which is astronomically more expensive than just the evaporator replacement. Also be careful who you get advice from, HAVC/MVAC space is crowded with hacks, who's only solution is to "add freon".


Back story:
I diagnosed a 2019 XC90 with the infamous front evaporator leak about a year ago, owner never end up getting it fixed because it's an expensive job, I warned him the consequences of waiting too long, but he didn't listen, instead some mechanic friend of him told him to just keep recharging it and it will be fine.
Anyway, the same car returned recently with the concern of AC not blowing cold at all after owner recharged it with 134a out of a can for the hundreds of time. After some diag, I got a sample of compressor oil and sure enough the compressor is burned out, aka black death. The delay have effectively turned the evaporator replacement into a full system replacement.

Image

Pic for reference, pic taken from a professional MVAC group that I am in, not the actual problem from this car.


How did this happen?
Unfortunately, I don't know for sure at this point, since the owner could not afford the full system replacement, I was not able to keep tearing down the vehicle to gather more clues, but I do have several theories, and I'm sure there are many other possibilities:

1. System was open to atmosphere at some point (all 134a leaked out), and owner recharged the system with 134a afterwards. Moisture and PAG oil mix together forms acid, and that ruins everything.

2. Compressor PAG oil leaks out with the refrigerant, and turn acidic when mixed with outside moisture, causing the leak on the evaporator to worsen overtime, similar to pic above, the corrosion on the aluminum TXV valve caused by a leak in the system due to failed O ring. When the owner recharge with 134A out of a can, it typcially does not come with any oil charge, and eventually enough compressor oil leaked out causing insufficient lubercation, which burned out the compressor.

3. Vehicle was operated extensively with incorrect amount of charge, causing compressor oil flow issue, which damaged the compressor.

Exactly what happened? We will probably never know, most likley it's a combination of all of the above.
 
#4 ·
Not surprising too with how much those auto stores advertise it. Their ads make it seem like it's a normal part of routine maintenance to just shoot a can of that junk in your car for "cooler air!".
 
#5 ·
Nice write up. Indeed operating the system low on freon and repeated fillings to questionable levels, with no additional oil, doomed the compressor. Some will just never listen to Professional advise. Only waiting for catastrophic failure before addressing and costing leagues more.

I worked on BMW's for a number of years. Their N52 engines had a very well known drive belt tensioner issue. One, oil leaked notoriously from the Oil Filter Housing gasket and would leak directly onto the drive belt. Two, the belt tensioner on all of them begin to fail, cocking out and shredding the belt eventually. In either case, the drive belt can shred and when it does, it almost always wraps around crank pulley and is ingested into the engine through the crankshaft seal. Just behind that is the timing chain. In many cases, it involves removing the oil pan, sometimes the valve cover, in order to remove all the drive belt pieces. In the worst cases, it clogs the oil sump with belt material made fine by the grinding up from the timing chain. Even worse is the belt causing timing to jump.

So had a customer come in for an Oil Service. We always checked the condition of Oil Stand Leakage and Drive belt tensioner. Lady said she couldn't afford the less than $300 repair for a new belt tensioner and belt. Fair enough. We told her she should not drive the car until it was repaired and this one was Really Bad. She said ok, I won't. 4 days later it returned on a hook with a no crank, no start. Belt shredded, ingested into timing chain, jumped time, all valves bent. We questioned her if she drove it. Her response was "well just around town and to work" Aghhh. So it was around 8 Grand for a replacement engine. She was a nurse and couldn't afford the $300 but came up with $8K and replaced the engine. Blows the mind sometimes.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Obviously depends on your location, shop rate and all that, for this particular one which has both front and rear evaporator coil, before tax they were looking at about 4.5k in parts (all factory parts, my shop don't do mark up on parts, so this is going to be anywhere from 10-30% more depending on the shop) and I quoted them 20hr labor (probably under quoted), not sure what's the book time since there are tons of labor overlap.

For comparison, just the front evaporator, you'll be looking at about 10hr book time and $800 in parts (all factory parts). a little more if the car uses 1234YF.
 
#12 ·
Was a no brainer. The A/C quit on my 1997 850 with 400k on the odometer in 2010. The repair/replacement cost was multiples of the cars BB value. My Volvo dealer gave me what I thought was a ridiculously high trade in value Maybe because the car I wanted had been on his lot for nearly a year. A few weeks later I saw what looked like ”my” 850 on a 4 lane near town. I got beside it and confirmed that it had been mine as it had a small dent in the driver’s side rear door. Driver had a big smile on his face as he had all 4 windows down and the sunroof open. This was during August in Georgia. I would call this a win/win