Just wondering if anyone else had problems when driving on the highway during heavy rain. I have never experienced this on any car, but my '04 s60r stops really poorly when it is raining. I think the combination of the huge rotor surface area and open 18" wheels allows for a water film to build up. When I first hit the brakes, the car barely slows at all. Then, (I am assuming after the film has been squeeged off), the full braking power returns. Scary to think of what that half second could cost you at 75 mph. Volvo has nothing to say about this.
specialk1223
Re: Poor Wet Braking (StaggRLee)
they do recommend you lightly apply the brakes every so often when driving in wet weather to dry the rotors. in my bmw with stock pads, i would have a brief instant of almost no brakes before the pads would bite. on that car, switching to hawk HPS pads almost got rid of that issue. on the R, the same thing. i have yet to encounter the same thing with hawk pads, but did experience it with the stock pads. plus they have much much less dust
![Image]()
![Image]()
| Quote, originally posted by StaggRLee » |
| Yes. It sucks until the rotors get heated/cleaned. I do a bit of driving in rain and you get used to knowing that you have to brake hard at first. Sucks for panic stops though. |
they do recommend you lightly apply the brakes every so often when driving in wet weather to dry the rotors. in my bmw with stock pads, i would have a brief instant of almost no brakes before the pads would bite. on that car, switching to hawk HPS pads almost got rid of that issue. on the R, the same thing. i have yet to encounter the same thing with hawk pads, but did experience it with the stock pads. plus they have much much less dust
Re: (dp810)
I've gotten both sets of mine at the tire rack.
you'll need to snap off the brake pad wear indicator on the front, its a piece of metal that hangs off the pad. the volvo shims serve this function, and the pad hits the rotor hat unless you remove them.
| Quote, originally posted by dp810 » |
| I've heard nothing but good about Hawk pads. Where is the best place to buy them? |
I've gotten both sets of mine at the tire rack.
you'll need to snap off the brake pad wear indicator on the front, its a piece of metal that hangs off the pad. the volvo shims serve this function, and the pad hits the rotor hat unless you remove them.
Re: (SilverS60RNYC)
I have HPS pads on my R and the wear indicator is only on the front set. It doesn't come anywhere near touching the hat or caliper. No need to remove it. I keep a close enough eye on the pads wear to know when they need replacing so it should never touch the braking surface.
TR carries them also;
http://www.svenskeracing.com/V...ID=55
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Volvo/V70R.htm
They list V70R, these will also fit the S60R. Same pads for both vehicles.
| Quote, originally posted by SilverS60RNYC » |
you'll need to snap off the brake pad wear indicator on the front, its a piece of metal that hangs off the pad. the volvo shims serve this function, and the pad hits the rotor hat unless you remove them. |
I have HPS pads on my R and the wear indicator is only on the front set. It doesn't come anywhere near touching the hat or caliper. No need to remove it. I keep a close enough eye on the pads wear to know when they need replacing so it should never touch the braking surface.
| Quote, originally posted by SilverS60RNYC » |
I've gotten both sets of mine at the tire rack. |
TR carries them also;
http://www.svenskeracing.com/V...ID=55
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Volvo/V70R.htm
They list V70R, these will also fit the S60R. Same pads for both vehicles.
Re: (FineProperty)
a little, usually if i havent washed the rims in a while. I grease the piston contact points every 6 months or so with some high temp moly brake grease, that seems to keep the squeals away.
if it would bother you, get the volvo brake squeal fix first then switch pads. the squeal fix is a damper that bolts to the back of the caliper. i doubt they would apply the fix to my car as i have aftermarket pads. the occasional squeal doesnt bother me that much though.
with SS brake lines and hawk pads, the braking performance is eye opening
![Image]()
| Quote, originally posted by FineProperty » |
| Great tip. Is there any squeal with the Hawk pads? Also, on the new 7 series, I recall reading that under certain conditions the brakes are applied ever so slightly for a split second to actually keep the brakes dry and ready for a stop. |
a little, usually if i havent washed the rims in a while. I grease the piston contact points every 6 months or so with some high temp moly brake grease, that seems to keep the squeals away.
if it would bother you, get the volvo brake squeal fix first then switch pads. the squeal fix is a damper that bolts to the back of the caliper. i doubt they would apply the fix to my car as i have aftermarket pads. the occasional squeal doesnt bother me that much though.
with SS brake lines and hawk pads, the braking performance is eye opening
Re: (Our R)
odd, on mine, the tab would hit the rotor hat and the whole pad would not seat into the caliper all the way untill i snapped it off. i left the thin metal shims in, if you look, they have extended tabs that look like they'll contact the rotor before wear gets too low. but like you, i keep an eye on my pad and rotor thickness, so i dont think i'll have much of a problem with that.
| Quote, originally posted by Our R » |
I have HPS pads on my R and the wear indicator is only on the front set. It doesn't come anywhere near touching the hat or caliper. No need to remove it. I keep a close enough eye on the pads wear to know when they need replacing so it should never touch the braking surface. |
odd, on mine, the tab would hit the rotor hat and the whole pad would not seat into the caliper all the way untill i snapped it off. i left the thin metal shims in, if you look, they have extended tabs that look like they'll contact the rotor before wear gets too low. but like you, i keep an eye on my pad and rotor thickness, so i dont think i'll have much of a problem with that.
Re: (SilverS60RNYC)
I have been working to eliminate the squeal short of bolting on a piece of metal to the calipers as Volvo's fix. Don't need the extra weight.
So far for total elimination; HPS pads, shims removed, Permatex disc brake quiet applied to back of front pads.
The Permatex locks the pad to the pistons so they don't "rattle" when you first apply the brake, causing the light brake squeal.
The Permatex can be removed very easily when you replace pads.
I have been working to eliminate the squeal short of bolting on a piece of metal to the calipers as Volvo's fix. Don't need the extra weight.
So far for total elimination; HPS pads, shims removed, Permatex disc brake quiet applied to back of front pads.
The Permatex locks the pad to the pistons so they don't "rattle" when you first apply the brake, causing the light brake squeal.
The Permatex can be removed very easily when you replace pads.
Re: (SilverS60RNYC)
... and after you get that squeal fix take a look at the new spec. pads that are part of the TNN. The pad material appears to be half the thickness of a traditional pad. I'm guessing 10-15k with moderate use before they need replacing.
![Image]()
| Quote, originally posted by SilverS60RNYC » |
if it would bother you, get the volvo brake squeal fix first then switch pads. the squeal fix is a damper that bolts to the back of the caliper. |
... and after you get that squeal fix take a look at the new spec. pads that are part of the TNN. The pad material appears to be half the thickness of a traditional pad. I'm guessing 10-15k with moderate use before they need replacing.
Re: (StaggRLee)
jeez....
I think i'll pass on that. i can live with the ocassional squeak. not sure how much i like a fix that involves bolting a heavy plate of steel to make the lightweight calipers heavy....
![Image]()
| Quote, originally posted by StaggRLee » |
... and after you get that squeal fix take a look at the new spec. pads that are part of the TNN. The pad material appears to be half the thickness of a traditional pad. I'm guessing 10-15k with moderate use before they need replacing.
|
jeez....
I think i'll pass on that. i can live with the ocassional squeak. not sure how much i like a fix that involves bolting a heavy plate of steel to make the lightweight calipers heavy....
Re: (Our R)
the blue stuff that comes in packets/tubes? tried that stuff before on a different car, but i think i was too much in a hurry to hit the road and didnt let it dry enough before installing. i used to use the CRC red gummy stuff, but that was a mess. worked well on my E46, but i had to pry the pads out of the calipers when it came time to change them.
i left the shims on, but will probably take them off when i pull the pads to regrease based on your experience.
| Quote, originally posted by Our R » |
| I have been working to eliminate the squeal short of bolting on a piece of metal to the calipers as Volvo's fix. Don't need the extra weight. So far for total elimination; HPS pads, shims removed, Permatex disc brake quiet applied to back of front pads. The Permatex locks the pad to the pistons so they don't "rattle" when you first apply the brake, causing the light brake squeal. The Permatex can be removed very easily when you replace pads. |
the blue stuff that comes in packets/tubes? tried that stuff before on a different car, but i think i was too much in a hurry to hit the road and didnt let it dry enough before installing. i used to use the CRC red gummy stuff, but that was a mess. worked well on my E46, but i had to pry the pads out of the calipers when it came time to change them.
i left the shims on, but will probably take them off when i pull the pads to regrease based on your experience.
Re: (SilverS60RNYC)
The Volvo TNN states bolting the metal piece on, high temp grease and removing the shims. Also a new pad number and they point out the ones they use are directional.
The Volvo TNN states bolting the metal piece on, high temp grease and removing the shims. Also a new pad number and they point out the ones they use are directional.
Re: brake pad replacement (FineProperty)
There's 2 pins you use a nail set to drive out. Then just push the pads towards the pistons with your fingertips in order to push the piston back into the caliper(only the distance the pad has worn). Then just slide the pads out the hole in the caliper. The caliper stays put. These are the easiest brakes I've ever worked on.
The most work is taking off and reinstalling the wheel.
There's 2 pins you use a nail set to drive out. Then just push the pads towards the pistons with your fingertips in order to push the piston back into the caliper(only the distance the pad has worn). Then just slide the pads out the hole in the caliper. The caliper stays put. These are the easiest brakes I've ever worked on.
The most work is taking off and reinstalling the wheel.
Re: Poor Wet Braking (specialk1223)
It's normal sadly. It's worse when water builds up MORE on one side than the other, and your car starts pulling to one side during the initial weak braking. (One side "dries" faster than the other)
| Quote, originally posted by specialk1223 » |
| Just wondering if anyone else had problems when driving on the highway during heavy rain. I have never experienced this on any car, but my '04 s60r stops really poorly when it is raining. I think the combination of the huge rotor surface area and open 18" wheels allows for a water film to build up. When I first hit the brakes, the car barely slows at all. Then, (I am assuming after the film has been squeeged off), the full braking power returns. Scary to think of what that half second could cost you at 75 mph. Volvo has nothing to say about this. |
It's normal sadly. It's worse when water builds up MORE on one side than the other, and your car starts pulling to one side during the initial weak braking. (One side "dries" faster than the other)
Re: Poor Wet Braking (specialk1223)
Occasionally applying light brakking touches during cruising will help with thuis issue.
Note that this poor braking phenomenon happens often enough that VW/Audi is introducing an automatic brake sweeping feature where, in rainy weather, during cruising the pads are occasionally, very lightly and very briefly (and allegedly, unnoticeably) applied to clear off water from the pads and rotors.
Occasionally applying light brakking touches during cruising will help with thuis issue.
Note that this poor braking phenomenon happens often enough that VW/Audi is introducing an automatic brake sweeping feature where, in rainy weather, during cruising the pads are occasionally, very lightly and very briefly (and allegedly, unnoticeably) applied to clear off water from the pads and rotors.
Re: Poor Wet Braking (HarryHood)
My Audi A4 exhibits the poor wet braking problem. From what I understand, they are famous for it. I think there may be some sort of brake rain shield available as a service item, but I've learned to live with the issue.
| Quote, originally posted by HarryHood » |
| Occasionally applying light brakking touches during cruising will help with thuis issue. Note that this poor braking phenomenon happens often enough that VW/Audi is introducing an automatic brake sweeping feature where, in rainy weather, during cruising the pads are occasionally, very lightly and very briefly (and allegedly, unnoticeably) applied to clear off water from the pads and rotors. |
My Audi A4 exhibits the poor wet braking problem. From what I understand, they are famous for it. I think there may be some sort of brake rain shield available as a service item, but I've learned to live with the issue.
Re: Poor Wet Braking (vizwiz)
I think slotted rotors would definitely help because it gives the water an additional place to go (besides out from under the sides of the brake pad surface). Just like aquatread tires or something to that extent. I e-mailed Volvo about this and they just referred me to my regular dealer who is hopeless. Seems odd that a company built on safety would have so little support for a major safety concern such as this. That "evaporation time" at highway speeds could mean the difference between saving my car and a big insurance check. I will put aftermarket pads on once mine wear out...but until then I guess I'll just take extra care.
I think slotted rotors would definitely help because it gives the water an additional place to go (besides out from under the sides of the brake pad surface). Just like aquatread tires or something to that extent. I e-mailed Volvo about this and they just referred me to my regular dealer who is hopeless. Seems odd that a company built on safety would have so little support for a major safety concern such as this. That "evaporation time" at highway speeds could mean the difference between saving my car and a big insurance check. I will put aftermarket pads on once mine wear out...but until then I guess I'll just take extra care.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
