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Polestar Suspension Adjustment Procedure

75K views 107 replies 44 participants last post by  bollarice  
#1 · (Edited)
Much has been written on this topic already and the purpose of this thread is simply to have the V60-specific photographs for the suspension adjustment access in a single place for those that haven't done it yet, as well as some pertinent comments. If I missed anything, please chime in.

Rear Damper Access:

The easiest access point for removing the trim and making adjustments is through the rear seat pass-through.

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Use a small screwdriver to pry out the face trim with the slot provided, exposing the 10mm securing bolt.

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Next, remove the bolt. The trim piece is then held in place only by two compression clips on the top and two fixed arms on the bottom.

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This next step of getting the trim pieces out was the only mildly challenging aspect of this from my experience. On the first one, I tried to be as careful as possible with various tools so that I wouldn't break the clips. They broke anyway. On the second one, I used a wide pry bar at the top, listened to the plastic pieces snap and was done on 5 seconds. My advice is to not be shy since the bolt holds everything in tightly and the broken bits are hidden. No one will know.

You can see here why the top clips break. They're designed to permanently hold the trim in place as they snap up behind the panel upon installation.

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This shows the bottom clips. Ideally you want these bottom clips intact so that you can hook the trim piece at the bottom when replacing the trim but it's not an issue if you break these as well.

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Rear Damper Adjustment:

With the rear trim pieces removed, the gold adjustment knob will be accessible towards the front of the car. It's a fairly long reach but as long as you can get a fingertip on the side of the knurled knob, you'll be able to adjust it. For those of you with short fingers or very large hands, the adjustment tool available from Polestar's web site will allow you to gain access to the adjustment knob. The adjustment knob turns easily mid range, but it is rather tight as it reaches its full clockwise position when baselining to 0 clicks. Use perceived rotational travel in combination with the subtle clicks to count out to your desired setting then replace the trim via the 10mm bolt.

Front Damper Access:

For the front, if right handed turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. The damper orientation is opposite to the rear with the adjuster on the bottom. Remove the rubber dust cover and adjust the setting from the back on the left side of the car...

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... and from the front on the right side of the car. This way you don't have to reposition the wheel and your dominant hand is making the adjustment.

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Front Damper Adjustment:

The front damper adjustment is the same as the rear, but even easier since you can get both your finger and thumb on the knurled adjustment knob.

Settings:

The following settings recommendations were taken directly from the Polestar Official thread on this forum, but there is a lot of great commentary from others on their personal experiences with various settings under a range of road conditions and driving scenarios.

S/V60 Polestar recommended damper settings

F = Front
R = Rear
Number = Amount of clicks

Base setting: F10 R10
(the best overall setting for performance and all-year usage)

Dry track: F10 R5
(stiffer rear)

Wet track: F15 R5
(softer front, stiffer rear)

Snow: F20 R10
(extra soft front)

Ice: F15 R5
(softer front, stiffer rear)

Rough roads: F15 R13
(softer front, softer rear)

Comfort: F20 R15
(extra soft front, softer rear)

Start by turning the adjustment knob to the bottom (clockwise) and then count the number of "clicks" when turning the adjustment wheel back out (anti clockwise).

When the dampers are fully turned in they are as hard as possible (few clicks).
When the dampers are fully turned out they are as soft as possible (many clicks).
 
#4 ·
Rear Damper Access:

The easiest access point for removing the trim and making adjustments is through the rear seat pass-through.

Next, remove the bolt. The trim piece is then held in place only by two compression clips on the top and two fixed arms on the bottom.

Image


Rear Damper Adjustment:

With the rear trim pieces removed, the gold adjustment knob will be accessible towards the front of the car. It's a fairly long reach but as long as you can get a fingertip on the side of the knurled knob, you'll be able to adjust it. For those of you with short fingers or very large hands, the adjustment tool available from Polestar's web site will allow you to gain access to the adjustment knob. The adjustment knob turns easily mid range, but it is rather tight as it reaches its full clockwise position when baselining to 0 clicks. Use perceived rotational travel in combination with the subtle clicks to count out to your desired setting then replace the trim via the 10mm bolt.

Doesn't the Polestar tool eliminate removing the inner clip, etc. and make the rear adjustment easier?
 
#5 ·
Doesn't the Polestar tool eliminate removing the inner clip, etc. and make the rear adjustment easier?
You still need to remove the rear trim pieces and anchors to access the golden knobs with the Polestar tool. Yes, I have the tool.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Correct.

The tool is handy when the golden knobs are too hot to touch, such as adjusting between sessions at the track. Otherwise your fingers are sufficient if they are small enough. [emoji6]
 
#13 · (Edited)
I just leave the clips off all the time. I drive around with holes in my trunk and I am ok with it ;)
You gave me an idea Foxy... I don't need the latches to be functional either so I reassembled them with the front trim pieces, ground off the 4 clips (what was left of them) and attached a small rare earth magnet to the back of each with some electrical tape. Now I can just snap them in and out using the pull down as a handle. It doesn't rattle because of the magnet and now the rear damper adjustment is as quick as the front.
 
#10 ·
Will the dealer do things this way? - for those of us who would prefer the dealer "breaks" something to gain access to make requested adjustments
 
#11 ·
Dealer does exactly the same thing. My dealer broke the plastic clip, which I said "who cares" to once I realized the bolt holds the important pieces together. As mentioned above, it's quite difficult to remove the plastic housing without breaking the clips. If the clips are important to you, leave your rear dampers alone ;)
 
#20 ·
Just did my first adjustment tonight...thanks again to motorhead for his documentation, it was extremely helpful to say the least. Couple minor adds from my experience:

- I used auto trim removal tools and didn't break the tabs on either housing for the cargo net. Could have been luck too.
- I wasn't expecting the damper adjustment knobs to be visible, but they could be seen very clearly

Image
 
#31 ·
If you can elaborate on that a bit; which trim removal tool was used, and what approach was taken to remove the housing for the cargo net? I got a bunch of trim removal tools on hand, I'm just looking for the right tool for the job. Although not a big deal, I would like to keep the tabs on the housing in tact.
 
#23 ·
SRK...I presume you are talking at each corner. I have to assume yes, for no reason other than that is the stated factory setting. The likes of P50 have proven that may not be the case. I had the dealer adjust the front to 15 during an oil change, but they refused to adjust the rear gratis citing the entire rear panels had to come off. 1) I thought volvo would cover 3 adjustments. 2) "Polestar certified" dealers have no idea how to handle the P* suspension.

Really pleased with 15/13. Temps are now consistently 20-30F and undoubtably will get worse. Love how you can alter these to combat varying temps or specific needs (e.g. track day).
 
#24 ·
SRK...I presume you are talking at each corner. I have to assume yes, for no reason other than that is the stated factory setting. The likes of P50 have proven that may not be the case. I had the dealer adjust the front to 15 during an oil change, but they refused to adjust the rear gratis citing the entire rear panels had to come off. 1) I thought volvo would cover 3 adjustments. 2) "Polestar certified" dealers have no idea how to handle the P* suspension.

Really pleased with 15/13. Temps are now consistently 20-30F and undoubtably will get worse. Love how you can alter these to combat varying temps or specific needs (e.g. track day).
If they are a P* certified shop, they should have removed the rear shock to do the adjustment, free of charge. If they refuse, you should contact VCNA. I have heard both 2 and 3 free adjustments, don't know which is correct.
 
#26 · (Edited)
You do not need to lower the shock. Polestar explicitly documents access to the golden knob via removal of the two cargo anchors.

Polestar's tool is optional. Most owners have turned it with their fingers (if they don't have large fingers...). I bought the tool to use at the track if I wanted to adjust settings between sessions. The knobs get too hot to touch from each tracking session. [emoji91]
 
#27 · (Edited)
Is it necessary, absolutely not as in you can do the adjustment without it, but it is what is in the TJ's and what is approved by Volvo. The only updated documentation P* has provided that I am aware of is for the adjustment tool itself, which most Service Centers do not have. The bigger point is that a Certified P* Center cannot refuse to do a complimentary adjustment. It is part of their contract to be able to sell P*'s. Tell them they do it, or you call VCNA, it's as simple as that.
 
#28 ·
I get Opus' rationale for the tool.

Also hear what you are saying P50, but my dealer formulated their opinion after calling the regional rep. It's not about imposing my will, it's about what we all have realized to-date...Volvo is ill-prepared to properly service these cars. I actually really like my dealer, but I feel like I need to be the source of info half the time...that is problematic.
 
#33 ·
Hi,

I can't find a similar access entry like that in my S60 Polestar, like the pic shown below, in my S60 it's just a whole piece of cover, has anyone done this rear suspension adjustment for there S60?
I did but it is a huge hassle. I removed the clips just below the trunk lid hinges and reached my arm behind that cover to just before the rear seat. It is nearly impossible to turn the adjustment knob and clicks are difficult to notice. Thinking about making two openings in the cover. I want to attend more track days with this car and the hassle doesn't add to a positive experience.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Figured I would add some pictures and directions to adjust the rear dampers of the s60 P*, since I just went through figuring it out. You don't need any tools. Once you know where the knobs are, it should take about 5 minutes to adjust both sides. It took me 15 minutes to figure out where the knobs were.

Step 1. Remove the bottom cover in the trunk. You will find the fix-a-flat under there, along with some tools.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MoRvYSRnHCBuhCkp9NyLvJr4Y1UCjKk1Gw


Step 2. Remove the screws/clips keeping the side padding fixed to the bottom of the car.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-39rxMOwHa-yY7C-l6hjVdHQjWVgfi70uQ


Step 3. Lift the side padding off the screws and side latch. You'll eventually be reaching your arm under there, so you want to make a little bit of room.

Step 4. There is a metal bracket visible, close to the seat backs. Follow that with your hand, or with your eyes, until you find the gold knob. It may be difficult to get enough leverage to turn the knob, but you can get your hand in through the front or the side. I found that the side was easier to get enough leverage to turn the knob without needing any tools.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Nprnj2V5r9mC27cJaAK4J5pwG_jNANQiTw

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1h_QnTyL60ACO9wfHmCR9APw_pHCV1wbaJw


Step 5. As outlined further up in the thread, turn the gold knob clockwise till it's tight (fully closed, which is the firmest setting) then turn counter-clockwise and count up to the desired number. Sometimes it is hard to hear the clicks, but if you are using your hand, you should be able to feel them very easily.

Step 6. Put everything back together.

Step 7. Profit.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Thanks. I noticed in my initial post and I edited the post. It may have not updated yet after the edit. They seems to be working for me after hosting on photobucket. I guess you can't host things on Google Drive.

Edit: I guess photobucket isn't a great place to host pictures any more. I'm putting the google drive links back until I host them elsewhere :(