On warm temperatures there is at lest one valve open, this is normal.
Mine does this since the beginning, the manual explains this function as well.

On my way from Switzerland to Denmark the valve(s) staid open all the time.

 

A couple weeks ago, I experienced something similar.
The valves remained open, even though I was in normal mode.
Must say that my fuel level was very low when it happened - don't know if it has something to do with that.
After I filled up and drove some more it got back to normal eventually.
It was as if the valves were 'stuck' for a moment.

 

Yes I think they must have stuck open, I'm going to see if I can check both actually open in sport mode as the manual points out as I haven't heard it as loud before, maybe only one is opening all this time I've owned it.

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Is there a way the dealer can code to leave the valves open full time? I love the sound, but driving in sport mode all the time is a bit much.

 

Yes, I just did it on my car. You will need a second hand to get this done. Very pleased with how the car sounds now.

1. Have a second hand, start the car and place the vehicle in "Sport Mode" (Foot on brake and E-Brake set for safety)
2. Go to the rear of the vehicle and unplug the Two Exhaust Flap Solenoids (Located in Trunk Area)
3. You are done!

Here are a few Engine Revs and a quick acceleration from this weekend.

 

Wow! And if I installed the Ferrita downpipe I suppose it would even get louder?

 

Absolutely!

 

Thanks, I'm trying this on the weekend, see if I can replicate that 6 cylinder crackle [emoji1303]

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Great advice everyone. If anyone goes into the boot (the trunk for the rest of us!) and disconnects the solenoids, please post a photo of the arrangement. Much appreciated in advance...

 

We did this with our first V60 polestar for our MD, his neighbours went crazy, the car did sound ridiculously good though!

 

Sure. As previously mentioned, secure the vehicle with the parking brake and wheel chalks, then put the transmission in sport.

Lift the cargo floor and secure it with the strap. Pull the lower tray out a little and you'll see two black connectors all the way forward, center left. These route directly to each exhaust actuator. To remove, there is a tab at the base that you need to press in with light pressure, then a light pull on the connector to release. These release very easily, so if it's not letting go you're not doing it right.

You can disconnect them in either order, but you should disconnect both. The actuators are CAN bus controlled so you can disconnect them without damaging anything electrical, but they operate together and not independently.

That's it. The actuators will stay fixed in position and your entire neighborhood will know when you're starting your car. It's seriously loud on cold start fast idle...

 

sure. As previously mentioned, secure the vehicle with the parking brake and wheel chalks, then put the transmission in sport.

Lift the cargo floor and secure it with the strap. Pull the lower tray out a little and you'll see two black connectors all the way forward, center left. These route directly to each exhaust actuator. To remove, there is a tab at the base that you need to press in with light pressure, then a light pull on the connector to release. These release very easily, so if it's not letting go you're not doing it right.

You can disconnect them in either order, but you should disconnect both. The actuators are can bus controlled so you can disconnect them without damaging anything electrical, but they operate together and not independently.

That's it. The actuators will stay fixed in position and your entire neighborhood will know when you're starting your car. It's seriously loud on cold start fast idle...

thank you!

 

That's awesome - thanks for the great write-up and photos!

 

This is by far the best info I have found. Thank you people for the advice with the valves

 

Cool! i will check this out this weekend, my neighbour just picked up the new M4 with a sport exhaust, his cold starts are loud but when its warm its not as loud as the polestar in sport (mind you i have a downpipe). this will definitely be louder!

 

Great write up and pics (except for the blurry before pic

Just wondering, to get it back to normal, do you just plug them back together? Incase wifey gets annoyed with the cold starts waking her up. Everyone has commented on the drastic change in loudness between D ans S mode.

@mikey32235 - I understand the Ms also has the same issue - on the cold starts there are flaps that are closed - and some BMW owners also do a similar mod to get the right cold start sound!

 

Sorry, I grabbed a bad shot. This is a little better.

And yes, you can just reconnect them when your wife complains and it will revert to normal operation the next time you start the car. Keep in mind that once you know how it's done, it's a quick enough task to do if only for that weekly solo drive to Home Depot.

I only run it this way occasionally myself and you can lock it in any one of several flap positions. I'll get some crap for this, but I usually have mine set in the fully closed position. I actually love the way this car sounds running up through the gears in manual mode when set that way and it still goes like stink. [emoji38]

 

I'm experiencing the same thing as described earlier.
It seems the valves are open all the time, even in normal D mode.
Sounds great, but this is not normal
Cold start is VERY loud, louder than previously.

The valves don't seem to pop back into place for the moment. What can I do? Software related or do I need to stick a screwdriver in there?

thanks

 

Do they close, after switching D Mode to S an back to D?
Mine are open, if the engine was hot, when parking and having warm weather ... was like this, from the beginning.
Never happens during the winter time.

 

This sounds exactly what I originally posted, sounds unreal on start up and really good driving but it lasted a few journeys and corrected itself once you go to sport and back, must be sticking valves for whatever reason, maybe some wd40 might do the trick.


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It doesn't work that way. The controllers on the mufflers are CAN bus controlled, and while I haven't experimented with individual wires, if you disconnect either of these connectors, then both muffler flaps will remain in their then-current positions.

As far as I can tell, there are 4 possible muffler actuator states that you can lock into while the car is idling normally (e-brake and chalked wheel of course) by disconnecting either connector. But the actuators seem to creep over time and need to be reset occasionally by reconnecting and disconnecting again.

Both fully open (transmission in Sport); Very loud cold start and sounds great reving in neutral, but drones a bit in drive
)
Left closed, right fully open (transmission in Park); Nice middle ground exhaust note, especially mid rpm range
Both fully closed (transmission in Reverse); Very quiet in all conditions
Flaps partially open (transmission in Drive); Normal non-sport exhaust note

There are dynamic actuator positions that you will of course lock yourself out of, such as normal sport/drive switching, cold start and high rpm activation in Drive, but I haven't noticed any drivability issues from any of these locked positions.

 

It doesn't work that way. The controllers on the mufflers are CAN bus controlled, and while I haven't experimented with individual wires, if you disconnect either of these connectors, then both muffler flaps will remain in their then-current positions.

As far as I can tell, there are 4 possible muffler actuator states that you can lock into while the car is idling normally (e-brake and chalked wheel of course) by disconnecting either connector. But the actuators seem to creep over time and need to be reset occasionally by reconnecting and disconnecting again.

Both fully open (transmission in Sport); Very loud cold start and sounds great reving in neutral, but drones a bit in drive
)
Left closed, right fully open (transmission in Park); Nice middle ground exhaust note, especially mid rpm range
Both fully closed (transmission in Reverse); Very quiet in all conditions
Flaps partially open (transmission in Drive); Normal non-sport exhaust note

There are dynamic actuator positions that you will of course lock yourself out of, such as normal sport/drive switching, cold start and high rpm activation in Drive, but I haven't noticed any drivability issues from any of these locked positions.

So "Left" is the "muffler bypass" valve? If so, doesn't seem like there is any way I could get it "stuck" in my desired position... (Left = Open, Right = Closed)

 

With a Ferrita DP and both open the car is ridiculously loud, do expect to get pulled by the police with this setting!

 

I don't know which one is left and which one is right, but it's easy enough to check as the you can trace the wires under the carpet. It may be possible to get what you're looking for by first switching the connectors, putting the car in Park and then disconnecting both. That normally opens the right side but should open the left if swapped around.

The question is whether or not swapping these would damage anything but they're not keyed differently or marked, so maybe not.

 

Would you be willing to post it here for those of us who don't do FB?

 

Or also for those of us here who are still waiting on the slacker FB admins to accept the join request?

 

My right exhaust seems to be "stuck" open. I pulled the actuator off and the clapper valve is rotating smoothly so it must be the actuator or the signal to the actuator.

 

So I am confused. My right is open after cold start. I can actually hear it open when the revs fall. My preference is both closed for D, and both open for S. Anyway to configure them this way?

 

I remember reading in the owners manual about how the exhaust flaps behave in different circumstances. I don't remember well off the top of my head at this point, but on cold start and in certain other circumstances, one of the two flaps are open. In Sport both are open. In drive both flaps are closed most of the time, except in some circumstances (which it explained if I remember right) and then both flaps open automatically @4k RPM in Drive (I think?)

 

As follows...

Cold Start: both closed
Park: left closed, right open
Reverse: both closed
Drive (non-sport): both just slightly open, open more at higher rpms
Drive (sport) or manual mode: both open

Lock in any of the static positions by disconnecting the connectors in the boot.

 

As follows...

Cold Start: both closed
Park: left closed, right open
Reverse: both closed
Drive (non-sport): both just slightly open, open more at higher rpms
Drive (sport): both open

Lock in any of these positions by disconnecting the connectors in the boot.

Almost...

In D Mode they are mostly closed and one opens above 4k rpm.

 

Hmm...I am not completely happy with this explanation, although accurate for a OEM vehicle. I think the right is staying open all the time on my Ferrita DP equipped car. I will DC both of them in the closed position and see. Thanks for sharing the information.

 

Flip Flopped

I bought my car used and when I went to check on it, both plugs were disconnected.
1. How do I know which plug is which? (If I wanted it back to factory setup.)
2. How long will the flaps stay open once unplugged? Do they close over time?

 

1. How do I know which plug is which? (If I wanted it back to factory setup.)
2. How long will the flaps stay open once unplugged? Do they close over time?

Just connect them either way since you can run them flipped and it doesn't hurt anything. If you guessed right, the driver side exhaust will be closed in Park at normal idle and passenger side will be open. Obviously just switch them around if you guessed wrong. I'm not certain on the second question but the servos don't move easily when unpowered.

 

this magic with the flaps is such a great "mod"... artywave: