My 10 year old battery was about 11 and 12 ish when started. My new battery is 12.3 and 14 when started.

Don’t know if the V8 and 3.2 make a difference.

Do you have a Vida/Dice


2010 xc90 3.2 | 2017 Prius V Five

 

It sounds like your draw is too high. When you measure the draw are you letting the car sit for a while so the modules can "go to sleep"? It can take up to half an hour or so for this to happen. The draw should drop to around 20ma, IIRC. Every time you pull a fuse you run the risk of waking something up. Again, pull the fuse and let the car sit for half an hour, then read the meter.

I've been chasing a similar problem since I got my XC90. Service records seem to indicate it's been on going since the car was new. Hope your luck is better than mine!

 

John did you ever solve this? I have a 2013 xc60 with a 4.2v and a 2.0v draw on my ICM and CCM. My draw is at 855mA. Wondering if you know anyone with intermediate speed CAN BUS knowledge?

 

I indeed have a Vida/Dice; how could this be used to analyse it? (except a wiring diagram)

 

That is indeed the process I am following; let it sit for long time. It is however this specific fuse that has the high draw. Unfortunately connected to a lot of the tricky modules (SRS, etc)

 

A difficult issue to solve. With the engine bay open (Hood? Bonnet?) there is already a circuit involved with the DIM. When the electrical circuit on the vehicle is opened by disconnecting the battery for testing, it's possible that the component causing the drain may be switched off from it's incorrect behavior. As always, the best thing is to return to basics. Since the vehicle self-discharges over days not in use, the simple thing is to disconnect the battery during one of these non-use periods to see if it is the battery itself that discharges, bearing in mind that some self discharge of surface voltage is to be expected. To avoid confusing that phenomenon, let the vehicle cool, then turn on the ignition and headlights for maybe 30 seconds, then disconnect the battery terminal and read the voltage with a proper meter, and then read the voltage again some days later. Variance in the millivolt area can likely be discounted, but anything in whole numbers could be suspect.
If it passes that test, then identifying the fault is again the difficulty. One possibility would be to defeat the hood/bonnet trigger, allow the vehicle to cool completely, and then scan the car with thermal imaging. Any "live" component may have an abnormal heat signature. Another possibility would be to install a sensitive shunt type of ammeter, that allows engine starting and normal operation while being able to monitor current draw from outside of the vehicle without activating or disturbing circuits.
One issue is that the real drain on the battery may be thermally triggered, in that the fault doesn't appear until a temperature threshold is reached, like when the car cools sufficiently overnight. A recording multi-meter would be desirable to be used in conjunction with any tests.
As for the live circuit you've identified, the arithmetic suggest it's not at issue. Your 100 Ah battery can be specified in a number of ways, so reading the manufacturers specs could be helpful, but, assuming that at least the battery is capable of serving a 1 amp current for 100 hours until fully discharged at 10.5 volts, your current draw of 0.1 amps should kill the battery after 1,000 hours. Marine batteries are often specified as 20 amp current draw at XXX Ah, automotive batteries can be whatever marketing demands.
Another possibility is that the battery is not coming up to charge when operated. The battery can be discharging little by little during operation until the final fault manifests itself after the resting period. In the 70's, Volvo had exactly that issue with new cars in the Phoenix market where the constant use of air conditioning in conjunction with slow city driving resulted in dead batteries on a wholesale basis in the new car population. That can be monitored with a good quality cigarette lighter receptacle voltmeter.
Does the 2006 have the battery monitor that must be reset in VIDA when the battery is replaced?
Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the extensive description. I will try the disconnected battery discharge analysis once more to rule that out. I tend to test with the bonnet closed and with the car locked (tricking the sensors by closing the door catch (if that is the right word) with a screwdriver. This puts the car in full rest mode, alarm on, lights off, etc.
I do not need to reset battery monitor with Vida as far as I am aware (no error codes showing in Dash).

Next step I am thinking of is disconnecting modules and relays but I am not certain if that is going to cause issues that need to be fixed by a Dealer.
For that I have the wiring diagram which is tricky to read (did not find a simple instruction yet).

 

Do you have XM radio? I went through a similar years long saga, and it ended up being a software update for the XM radio antenna.

 

I do not know what an XM radio is; is that XM Satellite Radio? In that case I do not have that. It has the Volvo Entertainment Centre

 

Draw should be 20ma or less.

 

Thx. I believe my 2006 is model 2007; it has that pop-up sat nav. Not sure what Aux is (did not read that in posts above but might have missed it). I will indeed check fuse nr 8 on CEM block.

 

If I think about it later, I'll check what current draw is on mine.

 

I came across this in VIDA while looking for something else-

"Babbling control module: A control module that sends correctly formed messages on the CAN cables when it should actually be in sleep mode and as a result keeps the CAN network active. An obvious symptom is a discharged battery but no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) stored. A babbling control module will not produce interference on the CAN network while the car is being driven. A control module with incorrect software can occasionally produce symptoms similar to those from a babbling control module. This is detected using the fault-tracing method described below. The usual solution is to load new software.

Disruptive control module: A control module that sends incorrectly formed messages on the CAN network, resulting in disruptions in the traffic between different control modules in the CAN network. This can result in the entire CAN network being shut down. Communication-related diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are normally stored. "

There's a reasonable amount of description, enough that it might be worth checking out. Think it's TNN 37-25, you can find it in VIDA if you go into one of the CAN signal fault codes and get to "General information about fault-tracing in the CAN network".

Zero idea if there's a specific range involved but it seems like this is one scenario where battery can go dead and no codes are generated.

 

FWIW 2012 XC60. Just measured my quiescent current at -19ma with the infotainment screen running, radio off. Battery voltage hits 14v with engine running but I have a few issues that may indicate my battery is on the way out:

Low battery warning after a minute with the ignition off.
Power save mode warning after 2 minutes or so.
Intermittent parking brake fault sporadically. I had this warning for a days straight after car was parked for a week.
Tailgate hatch goes awfully slow if used more than a few times with ignition off.

 

Does it make sense then that in a 2009 XC90 V8 R-Design leaving the key in the ignition although in the 0 position would still keep modules active that would cause a drain significantly over the normal 19-20 mA?

BTW, in dealing with a similar issue with my 2019 XC40 R-Design was advised by Volvo that standard resting draw on that vehicle is 300mA!!

Luis

 

BTW, in dealing with a similar issue with my 2019 XC40 R-Design was advised by Volvo that standard resting draw on that vehicle is 300mA!!

That can't be possible. Maybe periodically, or before all the modules go to sleep, but if it was steady state the battery would be dead in less than 2 weeks.