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Orange coolant/antifreeze?

21K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  StarmanDXE  
#1 ·
My antifreeze was low, so I just topped it off (with some Volvo stuff left over from my 850). I noticed that the Volvo stuff is a bright neon green, but the stuff that was in the reservoir tank appears to be orange. (Figured it might just be the tint of the tank, but when I poured the Volvo stuff in, I could clearly see a separation of orange and green.)

Anywho, I guess the shop the car was taken to (before I got it) for the new radiator filled it with non-Volvo fluid. Should I be particularly worried about this? Or would it be worth it to drain and refill with Volvo stuff? (I have to look into what the capacity of the system is and how much Volvo coolant is, still...)

Thanks!
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Yikes!

If it's that big of a deal, why would they have filled the car with it <1 year ago?!
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Boy, I hope a coolant flush isn't too pricey... And, what do you think: should I just go buy the coolant from a Volvo dealer and take it to a different shop to get it done? (Would I [probably] need to bring them distilled water, in that case?)

What a pain...
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Thanks guys :-/
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Well, I think it's yellow (and the reservoir bottle was just making it look orange). Mixed with my Volvo neon green, it hasn't congealed at all yet. I think I may be in the clear, but still looking for info on what "yellow" actually is (in order to decide if I want to just drain and refill).
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hmm... Nevermind. It's definitely orange. Here's hoping it's Crysler orange and not Dexcool. Guess I'll have to take it somewhere where they can test the pH!
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Re: (vlvman)

Quote, originally posted by vlvman »
Don't believe Dexcool is bad, Google "Dexcool"
I've been doing a lot of reading, actually... Consensus seems to be:

-Dexcool is generally fine if you keep it topped off
-Dexcool causes massive corrosion if you don't keep it topped off or if it has some other way for air to get mixed in (which leads to gunking)
-Dexcool contains more of an additive which is suspected to eat-away at plastics

I talked to a "Volvo/VW/Audi" specialist shop in town, and the guy there claims to be the only cooling-systems certified mechanic in town. He was trying to tell me that mixing a little ethylene glycol into a system full of Dexcool (as I am fairly certain I have done) will cause the two to create a gel. I have seen nothing on this matter...
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He's saying that they need to pull everything apart and wash every last bit of coolant/gunk out of it all and that it would be ~2 hours of work... I think he's just trying to take me for a ride
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Anyone happen to know anything else on the subject of the Dexcool/ethylene glycol mix and it gelling?

Edit: And anyone know where exactly the drain plug is for the radiator?

Modified by StarmanDXE at 3:50 PM 2-16-2009
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Re: (Bender)

Quote, originally posted by Bender »
Nope gelling is EXACTLY what happens and has fouled up many systems. Dexcool was designed/claimed to be an "add any coolant" system. It wasn't...

some people call it gel, some mud, but the most common term is sludge
Yikes! That does not bode well for me... So, I guess the question is:

Does that happen when adding Dexcool to ethylene glycol, when adding ethylene glycol to Dexcool, or both? And idea how long before it starts to create that sludge?
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Modified by StarmanDXE at 4:04 PM 2-16-2009
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Re: (Bender)

Where are you getting this info on the mix creating sludge? All I'm finding is that Dexcool can do it on its own if it's exposed to air.

And, I am planning to get the Dexcool out of my car ASAP. Just not sure yet if I want to try draining and flushing myself with some distilled water, if I want to pay Pepboy's to do their flush machine for $80 on top of the coolant price, or if I want to take it to this "expert" guy who's telling me that the mix gels (like what you're saying) and that everything needs to be pulled apart and it'll be $200+...

If it's not too bad to drain myself, I'm quite curious if any sludge is going to come out. I don't think the Dexcool has been in my car for more than ~5k miles and I just topped it with the ethylene glycol (about a pint) like 3 days ago (and have only driven like 20 miles...)
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Re: (Bender)

Quote, originally posted by Bender »
I will have to find it again, its been a long time since i did this research.

Thanks, appreciated!
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Re: (Bender)

Quote, originally posted by Dextrobrick »
It's directly under the radiator's driver side end tank. There should be a small access hole under it in the radiator's belly pan (if said pan is still installed).

With a suitably sized socket inserted vertically up into said access hole, loosen said plug just enough to begin liberating the old coolant. Don't bother trying to completely remove said plug as there's no need.

When draining is complete retighten said plug snugly--don't over-torque it or you'll be looking at getting a replacement radiator.
Thank you, sir! That seems to be what I found as far as doing the older cars, and I suppose it holds true for these newer ones, then.

Quote, originally posted by Dextrobrick »
When refilling the system via the coolant expansion tank, any air trapped in the cooling system can be burped out by squeezing the upper radiator hose with the coolant expansion tank uncapped. Watch that you don't get sprayed with a geyser of coolant shooting out said reservoir. Then reinstall the expansion tank's cap securely and check for any coolant leaks under and around the engine.

Note that as the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat fully opens expect the coolant level to drop slightly the first time the car is driven after changing its coolant. To remedy this, top off the coolant level according to the level indication molded into the coolant expansion tank with the engine off after the engine's has had time to completely cool off. As always, don't mess with the expansion tank when the coolant inside is pressurized and steaming hot.

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As you (somewhat) alluded to, I am quite wary of not getting all of the DEX-COOL out and then dumping in Volvo's "green." I think I will just have someone flush it for me with their machine... (But, how would their machine get all of the coolant out of the engine block if the thermostat needs to heat up to allow the coolant to flow out of it...???
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)

Quote, originally posted by Bender »
I will have to find it again, its been a long time since i did this research.
I'm finding stuff now that says adding some "green" (ethylene glycol w/ silicates) to DEX-COOL (ethylene glycol w/ organic acids) will not cause any harm, just reduce the "long life" capabilities of the DEX-COOL to the "green" operating life of 30k miles/3-years (instead of 100k miles/lifetime, which is
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But I'm also seeing that mixing the two will result in the DEX-COOL causing the silicates to precipitate out of the "green." As I only put a small amount of Volvo "green" into the DEX-COOL, I think it is either not enough to cause any precipitates or, if it does, it won't be a whole lot to cause any serious issues. (I tried mixing some more Volvo "green" with some of the orange I pulled out of the expansion tank, and it didn't precipitate on me or anything...
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I don't want to drain the radiator and fill with Volvo "green" just to have the DEX-COOL in the engine mix and pull all of the silicates out of the Volvo stuff, and I don't want to leave the DEX-COOL in as I'm not sure of the state of the water pump. (I suspect that it was replaced not long ago with the belts, and I expected good documentation from the attorney that I bought the car from, but she was completely unorganized [seeing as she lost the title and had to get a new one from the state, and lost one of the sets of keys in Bermuda or something-or-other
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] Got not records at all...
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At least I know from the CARFAX I obtained that she took the car to the local dealership up until she had the accident which necessitated the radiator replacement (10~20k miles ago), so I can ask the dealer what was done. But I don't know where the radiator and belt work was done, so I can't ask them about the parts... (I was told that newer water pumps use metal propellers instead of plastic so the erosion-by-DEX-COOL problem might not be an issue? But I don't feel like taking that risk...)

So, assuming I can get a shop to flush the radiator and the block(?), I'll just fill the stupid thing with Volvo stuff and now I'll know to (and how to) drain the radiator every year or so just to give the coolant a boost (instead of flushing the whole system every 3 years and refilling all with new).

Thanks all for all of the help. I believe this thread has gotten me what I needed/wanted to know, and I think I have now learned more than I had ever expected to know about coolants!
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
Re: Orange coolant/antifreeze? (SML)

Quote, originally posted by SML »
Interesting story.

What was the final decision & cost & outcome?

I am hoping you did it yourself - as it is so easy.
I did not do it myself
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It was too cold and I didn't have any good, flat (,warm) place to work (and I also wasn't sure I'd be able to get all of the old stuff out of the engine block). But, from now on, I will probably drain the radiator yearly and get about half of the coolant out and replace that much (at the least). That should be pretty easy and doable for me
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It actually ended up only costing me ~$50 in labor. I had a partial bottle of Volvo coolant and had bought another full one for ~$30, but the place I took my car to happened to have left-over another partial bottle of Volvo stuff which they basically gave to me ::shrug:: http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Quote, originally posted by SML »
Just curious .... how do you know it wasn't the yellow Volvo Coolant VCS?

http://www.volvo.com/NR/rdonly...L.pdf
It was most definitely orange. Pulled a decent amount out and, at first it looked yellow, but as I took more out, it became apparent that it was certainly orange.

While my research showed that DEX-COOL should be fine, it seem to be a decent bit more temperamental than Volvo coolant (and also has the possibility of destroying plastic water pump impellers), so I figured it was worth the money to get that stuff out and Volvo stuff in (if only mostly for the peace of mind
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
The place I got my tires replaced at took the bit of antifreeze and the transmission fluid I had. Just save it up until you need a shop to service your car (or perhaps get an inspection)
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Re: (volvosince16)

Quote, originally posted by volvosince16 »
Down the toilet or mix with used oil and take to autoparts store.
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I hope that's one of those things like peeing in the shower where it's by no means wrong, but some people disagree with it(?).