HI Gregg,


I can get you the OEM parts needed to replace the PCV Crankcase box at a fraction of what the dealer was going to charge you. Send me an email and I can get you a quote.

Connor

 

Thanks Connor. Just sent you an email.

So... 65 views and no one has any ideas on where to start with this procedure?!?

Maybe it's the Thanksgiving hangover... :beer:

 

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?224121-Lack-of-Responses

 

That's interesting.

Normally, if a breather box/oil trap is "badly plugged" on the Si6 engines, there will be a check engine light or a whistle type noise at idle.

 

I have a 2010 3.2
My dealer pointed this out to me months ago. My car had about 48k at the time. Roughly the same price you were quoted for the repair.
I ignored their suggestion to replace it. 20k miles later....still no issues.

 

From what I've seen (and mine was replaced 20K miles ago by the previous owner at Volvo for "leaking oil"), this is a simple part on the top of the engine and "should" be able to be replaced fairly simply I would think. But I've NOT researched this much at all.

 

Yes, on a 3.2 it is very simple. On the T6, it is in the same place but the air pipe feeding the turbo runs close behind the PCV box and is somewhat of a hassle to work around.

 

Anyone have a part number ont the 3.2 oil trap/breather box? Dealer has been trying to get me to replace for $450 for the last 30k miles. Also any link to the replacement procedure would be super helpful.

 

Thanks for the replies, I'll check into it more tonight... when I can fire up my VIDA setup to see what it says in there. I figured (and hoped) it would be a 'fairly' easy thing to do... and not "worth" spending almost $500 to have the dealer do it.

Also, I thought of the same thing on the way home that morning... if this was so "badly plugged", why isn't there a CEL coming on with a code?!? I guess the same thoughts as some here. Good point.

I'll post back with results. Waiting to hear back from Connor from Viva Performance on parts.

Thanks!

 

Funny thing... my 98' S70 needed the same thing done right before I sold it, and it had a slight oil leak from a cam seal. I don't want this to get bad enough where the same thing (or worse) happens to this car, as it's now my main vehicle.

You guys think I can get through the winter??? I'd rather not have to do this in cold temps, but of course would, if I had to... and if it's relatively easy to do.

I hope to get a LP garage heater for Xmas, so that would help keep things 'warmer' as well.

 

I found the procedure in VIDA last night, doesn't look to be too bad. May attempt replacement this weekend if the part ($157.99 + free shipping on Amazon) arrives in time.

Will update when done.

BTW, I took the oil cap off last night after the 30min ride home from work... no noticeable pressure 'relief'. Was the dealer trying to pull a fast one on me??? Who knows. Anyways, $160.00 for the part and maybe an hours time is WAY better than the $480.00+ tax I was quoted... :facepalm:

 

Done and done!

Took care of this over the weekend, not "too bad" of a job. See photos here (I hope it works, first time linking to an album):

https://flic.kr/s/aHskqvXSMb

Trelos, as far as the part number goes... I believe you need a 31319642 which is for a non-turbo. I needed the 31319643 (turbo)... they're different, so please double-check. Mine came with a gasket (the green thing in the photos), but that part number is 30757223 (non-turbo)... if you need it.

I called a place on Amazon that had mine for $157.00 (with free shipping), I think it was *****'s Volvo... heck of a nice guy, and he ships FAST! Had it in 3 days from So Cal.

For the procedure, I worked off the diagrams in VIDA (I'll upload those in a following post), but did NOT take everything apart. I couldn't figure out how... and it really wasn't necessary. I needed/used a T30 Torx socket, a couple different lengths of 1/2" drive wobble extensions (you'll need these to get at the rear screws) and a 1/2" rachet. I only cut the small hose clamp coming off the oil trap and disconnected the 'larger' intake hose via the hose clamp near the air box. Again, this will make sense with the photos. I disconnected a small sensor (towards the drivers side) and took all (14) screws out. Use caution on the rear screws... as I was not paying attention and dropped one! Once they were out, a few taps on it with a rubber mallet and tah-dah... it was off!

Replacement is just the opposite of the above. Let me tell ya, it was dirty! After a half can of CRC Intake/Throttle Body cleaner and about 10 linear feet of paper towel... I got 'er looking pretty good. I got out as much as possible. I didn't over-tighten the screws, as I was almost able to back them out by hand. The spec in VIDA says 10nm.

I can't think of anything else off-hand... not too bad of a job. It'll be easier of there was more room (not sure if the shroud above the oil trap 'needs' to be removed, but I didn't take that off).

Beats paying almost $500.00 to have this done... :beer:

 

See VIDA diagrams here:

https://flic.kr/s/aHskqw1YLj

Good luck Trelos! You can do it! :thumbup:

 

[QUOTE="SullyE, post: 2930201, member: 48027"
See VIDA diagrams here:

S80 Oil Trap - VIDA Diagram

Good luck Trelos! You can do it! 👍]

Hi,
What version of VIDA is this?

 

Isn't this done if you get your car serviced? I mean at least every x miles, maybe not every service but still. Or is this something I should worry about? I have a V8 at 60k miles and no clue if it's been done. No clue what it should look like (or where it even is located, actually).

 

Isn't this done if you get your car serviced?

One would think! At least that's how I feel about it.

The PCV system is probably the most 'neglected' (not intentionally) part of a car, by most people. I wouldn't have thought of it, if the dealership I went to 2 weeks ago didn't mention there was "pressure" release when the oil cap was removed during an inspection.

By the way the oil trap (i.e. part) looked when I removed it... I'm guessing mine was never done, and I bought it with 96K miles on it earlier this year (late Feb 2015). It appeared to have been serviced mostly at the dealer (Cherry Volvo in NJ), but I don't recall seeing anything saying the oil trap was replaced. I would "think" it should be a part of a 60K or 90K (at the latest) service. Perhaps someone else has knowledge of what all is covered in those. I'll take a look tonight to see if it's listed in the service maintenance manual.

Just something I thought I'd share, so folks can be 'proactive' and not 'reactive' if a seal blows due to pressure build up... which is what happened to my beloved S70 not long before I sold it. Unfortunately, that breather box was harder to replace.

 

One more thing...

I did a comparison on the way to/from work the last days... and believe my Hwy mpg has increased slightly, by ~1.5-2.0mpg. This is with driving the same speed cruise set to 68-70mph, low wind conditions and fairly equal air temps the past 3 days. I'm using 87 octane gas in the car... and have consistently gotten 30.5 to 32.5 Hwy mpg, compared to ~28.0 to 29.0 before replacing the oil trap/breather box.

If you do not know when yours has been replaced, I'd recommend getting it done or doing it yourself. The T6 wasn't bad, not sure how difficult the 3.2 or V8 is.

Just something I thought I'd bring up, since it is often neglected... at least it was by me!

Take care,

Gregg

 

Thanks!

 

I decided to pull the oil filler cap after a cold start and I noticed a strong sucking sound. Same with the dipstick. I realize this thread is regarding the 6-cyl PCV systems but I have a V8 if that makes any difference. To my limited PCV-system knowledge, engines are not supposed to give off sucking nor blowing when the dipstick or filler cap is removed, isn't that so?

Why is it doing that? Is it the oil trap or breather box? Or is that the same thing? Any further troubleshooting or should I look in to cleaning or replacing anything on that end?

I shot a short crappy video but I hope the audio should be indicative enough for a conclusion of some sort: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9cidvzqnr3ju98c/V8 PCV.mov?dl=0

 

Actually, I think that is what it's supposed to do when the PCV system is working correctly - creating a slightly negative pressure in the crankcase via sucking in the crankcase fumes/mist back into the intake manifold via the PCV plumbing.

 

I'm admittedly a bit of a hypochondriac when it comes to "is it supposed to do that?" even if it's sometimes - all too often - based on my own lack of knowledge. So uh, good to know it's working as it should. I'm was actually trying to read up on the PCV system yesterday and heard of the glove test. I have no doubt my V8 is working but I'm hoping to see it inflate on my old B21 volvo 240. That'd answer a lot of question if it does.

 

Oil Trap 2006 Volvo XC90 Turbo 5 Cylinder

My Volvo mechanic says I need to have the oil trap cleaned and that it is clogged.

The car does have a very rough idle and it difficult to start and frequently stalls out when I slow down. The check engine light is on and has been for a while. He says it will be $1250 for this service. I simply don't have that. I seriously only have about $300.

Is this something I can do myself? Where would I find instructions?

 

My Volvo mechanic says I need to have the oil trap cleaned and that it is clogged.

The car does have a very rough idle and it difficult to start and frequently stalls out when I slow down. The check engine light is on and has been for a while. He says it will be $1250 for this service. I simply don't have that. I seriously only have about $300.

Is this something I can do myself? Where would I find instructions?

Unfortunately as expensive cars age and their value declines the cost to maintain them doesn't follow suit. I've looked into this job for a friend and it was pretty involved on his gen 1 s80. I'm not sure how bad it would be on yours.

A good start would be to tell us the year and engine type of your car. If you have access to VIDA the instructions are probably in there.

I'm not sure what continuing to dive with a bad trap will do to the car. It may affect other parts and cause bigger problems down the road with sealing or worse.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

susanm. While I do not know if your turbo 5 engine is similar to the turbo 5 cylinder in out '04 XC70, I suspect it is the same engine. Look in the XC70 area. Many posts of the PVC issues with this engine. Do a glove test to check for positive crankcase pressure. If glove inflates, have system serviced/changed as further more expensive seals will be damaged.

I had the PVC system replaced on our XC70, expensive as the intake manifold must be removed, engine block ports possibly cleaned and hoses replaced. Oil quality, change frequency and driving habits effect the PVC system.

 

susanm. While I do not know if your turbo 5 engine is similar to the turbo 5 cylinder in out '04 XC70, I suspect it is the same engine. Look in the XC70 area. Many posts of the PVC issues with this engine. Do a glove test to check for positive crankcase pressure. If glove inflates, have system serviced/changed as further more expensive seals will be damaged.

I had the PVC system replaced on our XC70, expensive as the intake manifold must be removed, engine block ports possibly cleaned and hoses replaced. Oil quality, change frequency and driving habits effect the PVC system.

Thanks, bugeye!
I am going to do the glove test this weekend. The car has over 205,000K miles, so it has had a good run. Thanks for the referral to the XC70 area on PVC issues. I'll check it out.

Susan

 

Good information, thanks.

Just one question: can the part be cleaned and replaced or is buying the $ 160 part the only route. My guess the part has lots of build-up but is not damaged and wonder if it can be cleaned. Thanks.

 

Good information, thanks.

Just one question: can the part be cleaned and replaced or is buying the $ 160 part the only route. My guess the part has lots of build-up but is not damaged and wonder if it can be cleaned. Thanks.

When you considering the time, patience and fragile materials used (plastic hoses etc which like to break/ crack when you even LOOK at them the wrong way), it's just easier to purchase everything new and replace it all while it's apart. Attempting to clean these parts is futile, which is why these cars are so cheap in the used market.

Susanm, I wish you all the best in your decision to repair or sell. Don't feel obligated to hold onto an old Volvo. Repairs and maintenance can easily cost more than the vehicle is worth.

 

Use caution removing ALL screws... but especially the rear ones, so they don't FALL!! Yikes! I thought I had a good grip on one... but didn't, it fell, and I heard it fall out from 'wherever' the next day on the way into work. Who knows where it is now!!

You can do it.