Leaking around the turbo could be the oil return gasket and/or O-ring needing replacement. There's a simple $5+ kit for that from iPD. I just replaced mine recently, I'll see if it helps the seeping I get on the bottom of my turbo. If you're getting a lot of oil getting into the hoses from your turbo, it may be time for either a new turbo or a rebuild of the one on the car. Definitely better experts here on this than myself that can verify that.

 

Thanks. Is it risky to buy a $150 turbo from ebay?

I will definitely replace the return line and o ring before replacing the turbo, though.

 

There's always some amount of oil in the intake track. As long as your oil consumption isn't high, or you aren't leaving a blue cloud behind you when accelerating, I wouldn't worry about the turbo yet.

I wouldn't do a $150 eBay turbo. Either rebuild yours or get a low mileage used one.

 

I found used ones for 175 from erievolvo.

 

This link explains a lot about the pcv system.
(184) PCV system question 2.5T | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum

Oil in the air tubes/hoses are normal. All engines burn pcv oil vapors.
PCV vapors get drawn into the engine from the pcv box to the base of the fresh air inlet hose at the turbo inlet side. Oil vapors are directed with turbo boost air into the air intake system to be burned up. Hot oil vapors will turn back into liquid oil due to oil vapor cool down. This why or how there will always be oil buildup on the inside of the inlet hoses. When you turn off the engine, oil vapors turn back into liquid oil. It is normal to have oil drippage at the turbo inlet tube area. It will leak out/down the rear engine mount/subframe area. Rarely does it drip on the ground from the rear engine mount area. Hot oil vapors will collect and build up on the throttle plate. Enough oil junk buildup on the throttle plate will eventually cause idle issues on deceleration. It can also cause idle issues at startup because the t-plate cannot move from a closed position due to buildup oil junk. The oil type leakage is probably not from a failing turbo. When the internal turbo oil seal rings fail, it will pump oil out to the tailpipe and look like a bug fogger. Turbo hose below the oil dipstick will fail and wear a hole from the inside out. The oil dipstick 0-ring will get old and let oil vapors leak out the top, drip on the hose right below the dipstick tube.

 

I was worried something is very wrong once I saw the condition of the intercooler hose. However, on FCP euro (the reviews for the reinz one i bought) and youtube, people have had to replace it because it gets weak and oily.

 

Keep an eye on oil levels and how much your engine is consuming. Follow the advice above. If there isn't excessive oil consumption and you aren't burning any from the tailpipe, then don't worry about the turbo being bad. You'll generally know if that's the case. All of our cars have oil to some degree in the intake tract. As long as it isn't spewing it from the intake side or from the tail pipe, then it's probably normal.

 

Okay, thank you.

I have an unrelated question.

I attempted a brake fluid flush because the fluid water level was above 4%. So I did the flush starting farthest away from the master cylinder. Is that correct on the p2 volvos? (2005 s60 2.5t awd). I removed about a quart of dirty fluid and I did not see any air bubbles come out of the tube once I was done with each caliper. I think I might have done something wrong by pressing the brake pedal in all of the way? There a little bit of travel in the brakes before it stiffens up. Do you think I could have damaged the master cylinder seals by depressing the pedal fully? The brakes do work well but it takes 1-2 inches of distance to engage. Should I bleed them, now that all of the old fluid is out?

These are my observations on the first test drive directly after doing the fluid change.

P.S.
I did the one person method with the bottle with old fluid I extractedfrom the reservoir.

 

I run silicon hoses for my charge pipe ends, just extra piece of mind since it should last longer and tolerate the engine bay environment better. It's not the Snabb or Do88 hoses, but still quality silicon from intercooler to charge pipe and charge pipe to turbo. As long as the rubber hoses aren't stiff or brittle and has no rips, tears or holes in it, you should be good.

For the brakes, I think you should be OK. The key is making sure the master cylinder never runs dry and you're keeping the reservoir full or as full as you can between rounds of pumping the pedal to expel the old fluid and air bubbles. You did bleed them the proper way for P2s, you start at the furthest back and work your way forward. A previous vehicle I had you started at the furthest back, then the did the did the opposite wheel on the same circuit next, but P2s just go from furthest wheel back working your way to the closest.

 

I run silicon hoses for my charge pipe ends, just extra piece of mind since it should last longer and tolerate the engine bay environment better. It's not the Snabb or Do88 hoses, but still quality silicon from intercooler to charge pipe and charge pipe to turbo. As long as the rubber hoses aren't stiff or brittle and has no rips, tears or holes in it, you should be good.

For the brakes, I think you should be OK. The key is making sure the master cylinder never runs dry and you're keeping the reservoir full or as full as you can between rounds of pumping the pedal to expel the old fluid and air bubbles. You did bleed them the proper way for P2s, you start at the furthest back and work your way forward. A previous vehicle I had you started at the furthest back, then the did the did the opposite wheel on the same circuit next, but P2s just go from furthest wheel back working your way to the closest.

A leak developed where the master cylinder meets the brake booster.

And there is a whoosh noise from the brake pedal at the beginning of it being depressed then it goes away once the brakes get firm.

I sprayed brake clean around the area and the paint came off. How long does it take for brake fluid to rust metal?

 

As long as the hose is pliable it should be OK. You can rev the motor to create boost and observe if the charge pipe to intercooler hose is expanding or compressing. But figure the original hoses are at or near 20 years old... As for other hoses, definitely the upper and lower radiator hoses would be ones to possible look into replacing. Also the hoses that run with the vacuum system to the lower left of the air box can get compromised over time... And of course the 3 main hoses to the TCV as well as the similar size diameter hose that goes from the turbo to the intake manifold. Supposedly, at least according to Scotty Kilmer on YouTube, that AT-205 sealant can be used on the exterior of hoses and rubber pieces to extend the longevity. He had a video a while back about it and some other people people I've heard from swear by that as well. I have the stuff, but haven't used it yet in that manner. Just gotten as far as putting it into a spray bottle, lol.

 

I wouldn't hesitate to use an ebay turbo. I installed an ebay cartridge that I got from MaxSpeedingRods for $98 delivered in my 2006 XC90 two years ago and it has around 25,000 miles on it now with no issues. I hits 10 psi, sounds good and doesn't smoke. The engine has around 205,000 miles on it now. For the price, I could put one in every year and still be way ahead.

 

Glove test after PCV system replacement.

 

Your glove test looks good as it should. Brake fluid doesn't rust metal but it makes paint bubble up and ruin it. Wire brush the rust clean with a solvent, prime the bare metal and spray paint it with Rust-oleum paint. Oil in the charge pipe is typically normal. I wouldn't worry about it. But the hoses for the charge pipe degrade over time. Normally ~15yrs give or take because the oil vapor eventually softens up the rubber. They can even pop off when the clamps are tight. Best practice is replacing them. I sourced Rein OEM charge hoses from FCP. They are far less $$$ that Volvo branded originals and just as good. These Rein hoses fit very tight and are a bear to put on and get the charge pipe aligned properly for the CP screws to line up with the Intake holes without snapping them off. Lube the inside of the hose ends with a synthetic grease like Krytox to assist getting them seated at the stops. If you don't lube them, you will remember this.

 

i installed this one, too. I had to remove the charge air pipe from the car and spread a lot sil-glide on the inside of this hose to make it fit.

I think the Volvo hose is better, though. No fitment struggle and was still working fine after 20 years. Wider ID and no fixed hose clamps.