While I'm not sure about the weight, Service Pro is the stuff a lot of shops use. Cheap in bulk but perfectly fine oil. It's made by Warren, so essentially the same stuff as Kirkland Signature and AmazonBasics. Meets all the highest engineering standards AFAIK. It's perhaps not quite on the same level as Castrol Edge, but will be totally fine until your next change, so long as the car's good with the weight. Look in your owner's manual and look for the oil spec list where it lists the viscosities you can use along with their temperature ranges.
For me personally, I like the top tier stuff, ie Motul, LiquiMoly, etc., but maybe it's overkill. Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, and probably even Service Pro I'm sure are all pretty good these days. Especially if you change it every 5K like I do. Screw the 10K+ intervals or "lifetime" trans fluids.

 

Liqui Moly makes 0W20 Volvo RBSO-2AE so that's what I plan on using for oil changes on mine. I'm no engineer but I would imagine there's a reason why Volvo spec'd a particular oil for the car.

Oil is one of top five items to debate on swedespeed so get ready for it, lol.

 

Oil is one of top five items to debate on swedespeed so get ready for it, lol.

Oh boy! I'll get my popcorn ready. While I'm totally an oil snob when it comes to my Volvos, I just tossed in Mobil 1 in previous vehicles and they did well enough. Though my XC70 has set a personal record for me with Motul, so I'm a really happy customer. Also heard great things about LiquiMoly so been tempted to try that as well. Going from the Castrol Edge the dealer used to Motul, engine seems to rev a bit freer, and on the other end of 5K, the oil is in visibly better condition which tells me it doesn't break down quite as fast. Again, not going to rip on the Castrol too much, since I know lots of people have yielded great results from it. I've just come to prefer the other stuff. Especially since I usually only pay under $8/liter. I use Motul 8100 Eco-Energy 5W30 FWIW. Also switched my C30 to it and the engine is definitely happy with the switch. Previous owner used Castrol Edge. Again, that's fine. Engine seems to be running great.

 

How much does the standard matter and why did Volvo change theirs? They don’t make this easy!

 

Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE is the only thing that matters really, and that means 0W20 oil.
If you want to change weight you better read up on oil specifications and certifications, do your homework. VEA engines has quite complex PF and catalyst system afaik.
Brand does not matter much at all.

 

When Volvo did the durability testing on your engine, they used the oil specified in the manual. Full stop.

In other words, you can choose to experiment with something else, but Volvo won't vouch for the results.

 

Found this interesting table on the various weights and specs of the Service Pro Euro oils….since they are used in many shops worth a look. You can see the Volvo standard but interestingly not in ow20. So avoid?

https://service-pro.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/FullSyn-Euro-10-12-2021.pdf

 

No Volvo spec or standard in that pdf as far as the eye can see.

0W20 C5 (porsche C20) oil might work, but its not Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE certified.

 

but typically at the 5W30 weight as I don’t think Edge pro is available in 0W20 in the US.

According to their website, it should be: Castrol® Edge: Full Synthetic Oil | WELCOME | CASTROL USA
But I'll mirror what Dyno said in that I'm a fan of using the viscosities the manual tells me to.
EDIT: NEVERMIND. JUST NOTICED YOU SAID EDGE PRO. Guess that's the one with the Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE spec.

 

ACEA A5/B5 works right?

 

Volvo VCC 95200377 is the A5/B5 oil spec.
Majority of oils with that certification are 0W30 not 5W30. (almost exclusively)

And no A5/B5 is not in the manual for VEA in Europe.

 

Just learned that if you REALLY want something with that specific VOLVO VCC RBS0-2AE rating in a 0W-20 weight, this one has it:

MOTUL SPECIFIC RBS0-2AE 0W-20 - Motul

MOTUL SPECIFIC RBS0-2AE 0W-20 High Performance 100% Synthetic Fuel Economy Engine Oil specially designed for VOLVO "DRIVE-E" Gasol

www.motul.com

Impressive data sheet!: https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/specific_rbs0-2ae_0w-20__en_fr_motul_20200918.pdf

 

Here is an old thread.

Alternatives to Volvo RBS0-2AE spec motor oil (which is...

The issue of motor oil for the Drive-E seems a specific problem in the USA. The USA-spec user manual states: "Volvo oil VCC RBS0-2AE/SAE 0W20 is recommended for extreme driving conditions." However, the only oil that is RBS0-2AE certified is Castrol EDGE Professional V 0W-20 which does not...

www.swedespeed.com

 

Here is an old thread.

Alternatives to Volvo RBS0-2AE spec motor oil (which is...

The issue of motor oil for the Drive-E seems a specific problem in the USA. The USA-spec user manual states: "Volvo oil VCC RBS0-2AE/SAE 0W20 is recommended for extreme driving conditions." However, the only oil that is RBS0-2AE certified is Castrol EDGE Professional V 0W-20 which does not...

www.swedespeed.com

Sweet! From that, I just learned that LiquiMoly's Special Tec V also has that Volvo spec:

Special Tec V 0W-20

Leichtlaufmotoröl auf Basis Synthesetechnologie. Die Kombination unkonventioneller Grundöle und eine moderne Additivtechnologie senkt die Reibung im Motor auf ein Minimum, sorgt für maximale Motorleistung und einen geringen Kraftstoffverbrauch.

products.liqui-moly.com

Top shelf stuff, I'm sure. I'm guessing ANYTHING with the spec is, though. Made for "extreme" conditions. Few years back when I lived up North, when it wasn't unusual for me to deal with temps dipping to -50 or weeks on end where we wouldn't even hit a high of 0, I remember switching to a 0 weight oil for winters. Think mine took 0w30 tho. Def works great. Never struggled during cold starts.

 

OW-20 Castrol Professional

Anyone have a source for the Volvo spec motor oil? Some older threads indicated some had found/purchased it, but not locating it through google search, amazon, local auto parts folks, etc. Volvo dealer says only the Castrol Professional spec oil that they get comes "in bulk", as in delivered...

forums.swedespeed.com

 

I’ve never had a problem with any name brand oil in any vehicle in my life. There is one UTube mechanic that uses different oil each change in his old Lincoln and compares the drained oil with analysis and visually cutting the filter. He a Ford mechanic whose UTube name is “FordBoss Me”.

 

When I searched for Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE 0W-20 certified oil this is what I found last year (some are not available in US from what I could find)

There were rumors of an off the shelf Castrol version but I don't think that has been released. There may be other compatible oils available now.

Amsoil	SAE 0W-20 LS Synthetic European Motor Oil
Castrol	Castrol Edge Professional V 0W-20
Liqui Moly	Liqui Moly 521804 0W-20 Special Tec
Motul	Specific RBSO-2A
Mobil	Super 3000 Formula VC 0W-20	Not for sale in NA
Total	Quartz 9000 V Drive 0W-20	Not for sale in NA
Shell	Helix Ultra Professional AS-L 0W-20	Not for sale in NA

 

When I searched for Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE 0W-20 certified oil this is what I found last year (some are not available in US from what I could find)

There were rumors of an off the shelf Castrol version but I don't think that has been released. There may be other compatible oils available now.

Amsoil	SAE 0W-20 LS Synthetic European Motor Oil
Castrol	Castrol Edge Professional V 0W-20
Liqui Moly	Liqui Moly 521804 0W-20 Special Tec
Motul	Specific RBSO-2A
Mobil	Super 3000 Formula VC 0W-20	Not for sale in NA
Total	Quartz 9000 V Drive 0W-20	Not for sale in NA
Shell	Helix Ultra Professional AS-L 0W-20	Not for sale in NA

Ford Boss Me currently findings rate Royal Purple and Amsoil the best based on wear analysis. He changes oil every 3k-5k miles so it’s a running project over time. After current stock of Casteroil is used I plan to try Royal Purple as its lower cost than Amsoil.

 

Well if it's good enough for someone on YouTube running it in an old Lincoln, then it must be fine for every other car, regardless of what the engineers who designed it say.

 

Any good synthetic appropriately weighted, will be just fine. I will stand by that comment and challenge anyone who would vehemently disagree to a blackstone oil analysis wear comparison.

The recommended Castrol is a marketing agreement only, and the extended life certification is becoming every manufacturers affiliation stamp. The best thing to do is change your oil more frequently, rather than depend on a certification to last 10k miles or longer.

Liqui moly makes great products, so that’s my current choice for the 0-20 spec.

 

Challenge accepted. Take a guess at which oil is Amsoil 0w20 Euro.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

4800mi OCI with 1605 calcium would be my guess on Amsoil.
But hard to guess if you dont know the competitors.

 

It's at 4133, with the lowest numbers for viscosity, flashpoint, and TBN.

I believe boron, moly, and titanium are additives specific to the oils (hence "fluid titanium" in Castrol). So I'm not considering those as issues.

The higher amounts of metals at the first oil change (1238) displays a decent example of why I personally think the first oil change should be done much sooner than 10k miles.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

All other are same model of Castrol? Molybdenum PPM varies widely.
Yeah shure first oilchange should be done after a couple of heat cycles.
Only ever had a 50cc 2stroke scooter from new though 😂

 

All other are same model of Castrol? Molybdenum PPM varies widely.
Yeah shure first oilchange should be done after a couple of heat cycles.
Only ever had a 50cc 2stroke scooter from new though [emoji23]

Yep. All but that one are Castrol Professional V 0W20.

Hahahaha! I bet that scooter ran great on anything you fed it.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

There have to be at least a half dozen old oil threads, a couple of them that went on for months. Tech has to be pulling his hair out or screaming or just laughing hysterically at it coming up again.
Modern engines put oil through ridiculous extremes, and are at the same time more demanding than ever of performance. Low friction rings need consistent, sludge free lubrication or they will stick and fail and wear prematurely. That's a story that also should be really well known in this forum by now. Turbos? they cook the living crap out of oil with the temperatures in the bearings. Even worse? the combustion chamber pressures they generate, the blow by they cause... which brings up another topic sprinkled liberally throughout these pages. PCV systems. Not using the right oil means sludge, lots of vapor to be captured in overloaded PCV systems, lots of breakdown.
Use the damned oil Volvo engineers specified, and if you can't, change it often, a lot more often than the manual recommends. It's really cheap compared to those major mechanical failures.
And whatever you did for the last 30 years doesn't matter. The demands have changed. That old 9-1 compression ratio low revving V-8 was an entirely different beast.

 

Generally I am very much in favor of use what was intended.

When it comes to modern servicing of fluids, the only thing I take issue with are the massively extended intervals. Yes fluids have improved massively, but 10-15k intervals and "lifetime fill" only became a thing when the companies started offering free maintenance packages etc. Likewise, the proliferation of OEM certification labels coincides with these long-life fluid intervals also.

@DMikey touches on an important point - "...it's really cheap compared to major mechanical failures."

Several manufacturers have walked back their service intervals - BMW and GM for sure come to mind - since they were experiencing significant component failures within warranty.

Edit- I forgot to add, the manufacturers are also hyper focused on economy measures when engineering (both in service interval for less waste as well as efficiency in operating - thinner oil = less rotational resistance). These factors don't necessarily combine for extended ownership considerations, but rather "get it through warranty".

 

Hi Guys,
I am a former Operator for Chevron Lube Oil Project from the '80's. Lube Oil is a base stock cracked over specific catalysts and fired to specific temps in furnaces to create a specific molecular structure. Each Oil Brand takes a base stock lube oil and squirts in their proprietary blend of additives. If you start with mediocre base stock your additives will not make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I stick with the big players when it comes to that extra quart of oil between changes. However, that 1 or 2 quarts you add in between changes will not be your downfall. IMHO.

 

I agree with most of what has been written here, but the problem I have is buying the Volvo specified oil. My 2013 S60 T6 specifies ACEA A5/B5 SAE 0W-30, which is fine except that virtually no one makes a 0-30 available in Australia, however nearly all the oil makers have a 5W-30 that meets ACEA A5/B5.

Which is more important, the ACEA rating, The SAE or both? I should also mention that when I look my car up on the oil makers websites nearly all of them list their 5W-30 as compatible.

Castrol Australia do not seem to offer a 0W-30 and neither do most of the other major brands. Penrite, who make a great product, do have a 0W-30 but only in 5 litre containers which is not so convenient for a top up.

I've topped up with 5W-30 a few times and the engine still works I do now have 4.25 litres (I've used some) of Penrite 0W-30 which also meets ACEA A5/B5 specifications.

 

I agree with most of what has been written here, but the problem I have is buying the Volvo specified oil. My 2013 S60 T6 specifies ACEA A5/B5 SAE 0W-30, which is fine except that virtually no one makes a 0-30 available in Australia, however nearly all the oil makers have a 5W-30 that meets ACEA A5/B5.

Which is more important, the ACEA rating, The SAE or both? I should also mention that when I look my car up on the oil makers websites nearly all of them list their 5W-30 as compatible.

Castrol Australia do not seem to offer a 0W-30 and neither do most of the other major brands. Penrite, who make a great product, do have a 0W-30 but only in 5 litre containers which is not so convenient for a top up.

I've topped up with 5W-30 a few times and the engine still works I do now have 4.25 litres (I've used some) of Penrite 0W-30 which also meets ACEA A5/B5 specifications.

I would use 5w30 A5/B5, which is what was prescribed in other markets for this motor.

 

Not even my dealer put in VCC 0W20 oil, and uses 5w30 even though my car would be in the extreme conditions group my temp alone. This seems like an impossible situation for most people who don’t search the web for French and German oils!

 

Being Volvo's Swedish and all, is it possible that the Volvo spec and uber-low viscosity might have something to do with dealing with the make's native extreme Scandinavian temps? I mean, when you test your cars at Hällered, then waaaay further North at Kiruna, then yeah. You're gonna want a REALLY good oil that can handle those temps no problem. I mean anything can run fine once it's going, or with a block heater, but doing a cold start at -50 is gonna call for something better than 10W30 dino oil. For those down South, or in more temperate climates, I'm sure the more commonly available oils are more than sufficient, given the correct viscosities and good ratings of course.

 

The working theory around here is that Volvo designed and developed the engine around the 0W20, but it was initially not available in the US, so cars were being serviced with 5W-30 for a while.

That's not the case now, though. The recommend grade and viscosity are available to the dealers and the DIY guy.

 

What oil? 2016 V60, manual says 5W-30, sticker on the radiator says 0w-30, computer specs 0W-30, I've been using 5W-30 @ 5K adding some MMO when a low.