Also, My car has approx. 235000kms on it.

 

First, did anyone check to see if there's any oil in it? I know it sounds stupid, but after that many km it may tend to burn oil and if you didn't check it it'd all be gone by now. Waiting the 5 minutes gave the oil enough time to drain down to the sump so you had a bit to go on until you got to the mechanic and ran dry again. If there's no oil for G-D sake, put some in.

Second, if there is oil in it, the question is if you have a sensor failure, a wiring failure, or an oil pump failure. Check the wiring failure first and make sure the wire isn't grounded somewhere that could give a false reading. If that checks out, pull the sensor and put a pressure gage on the hole it went in and see how much real pressure you have. If oil pressure is there (assuming there's oil in the sump) then the pressure sensor switch is bad. If there's no pressure, the pump is bad.

The cam and O2 sensor may be completely independent of this. THis is more urgent (without oil the engine can burn up and seize in minutes.)

Best of luck.

 

^ I was thinking the same thing. OP never mentioned him or the tech checking oil level. Especially with extended oil changes in such high fashion these days coupled with a high mileage turbo car, it's very likely the car just burn enough oil to make the light come on.

Of course he may just have forgot to mention that part.

 

Thanks, for your reply.

Are we supposed to put Oil in the engine?
Just joking, Yeah I checked the oil when I first had the problem, and there is tons in there. ( I had the oil changed about 2k kms ago). Ill have a chat with the Mechanic tomorrow and see what he says.

 

Thanks, for your reply.

Are we supposed to put Oil in the engine?
Just joking, Yeah I checked the oil when I first had the problem, and there is tons in there. ( I had the oil changed about 2k kms ago). Ill have a chat with the Mechanic tomorrow and see what he says.

Oh, crap. Hope it isn't the pump and it's something simple like a chafed wire.

Best of luck

 

Any idea how much an Oil pump installed would cost?

 

or, how much work is involved? The reason I ask is, Am I going to be looking at a Large repair cost?

 

Timing belt has to come off, then the oil seal around the crankshaft, but the engine can stay in the car.

 

I've heard stories of people installing the oil filter incorrectly and destroying the engine... maybe one thing to check.

Otherwise i'd say the pump or the sensor has gone. Pump is a bastard to change, youll need gear puller and impact gun

 

was your car scanned with vida/dice? if it's the exhaust camshaft sensor that is faulty then it could give u an error code saying low oil pressure. u can easily replace it your self. and the part only costs around $120-150 if im right. I suggest having the car read with vida to start with.

 

i would be pulling the oil pan.

you can disconnect the switch to see if the message goes away....if it does, wiring is good.

 

i would be pulling the oil pan.

you can disconnect the switch to see if the message goes away....if it does, wiring is good.

1) Make sure you have enough oil.
2) check the pressure with a real oil pressure gauge to ensure you're not damaging the engine running it.
3) check/replace the sensor if the oil pressure gauge check indicates that it's bad.
4) check PCV function - if you've never had the system replaced, then you're probably way past due.
5) if you are still having oil pressure troubles, drop the pan and see if the oil pickup is all sludged up - ESPECIALLY if you've been running with a bad PCV for some time. Or if you've been using anything other than good quality ACEA-rated full synthetic oil. Or if you've ever gone more than 10k km or so on an oil change.

 

Alright, so What I am doing, is:
1. Replacing the oil pressure switch
2. Replacing Timing Belt + Idler Pully System.
3.Camshaft Seal
4.Camshaft position Sensor.
5.Engine Flush.
6.Replacing Oil with High Detergent oil.

So lets hope this cleans up my issue. The Mechanic says that the Camshaft Seal has blown, So its Spewing oil all over the timing belt. I am hoping that the blown camshaft seal is causing my "low Oil Pressure" problem. We will see.

 

Is this at a Volvo mechanic? I think you need to reconsider. It really seems like you're throwing a bunch of parts at the problem without troubleshooting first. There is NO OIL PRESSURE BEHIND THE CAM SEAL so it cannot be causing your low oil pressure. There can be CRANKCASE PRESSURE behind the camshaft oil seal, that'll cause a nasty messy leak. And if there is crankcase pressure then the problem is either your PCV system is shot (very common, and any Volvo mechanic would know to check it) or you have tons of piston ring blowby.

1. How do you know the oil pressure switch is bad?
2. Probably OK if the old ones are all covered with oil or haven't been changed in the last 160k (kms)
3. If the old one is blown out then yeah you need new ones. And good to do this at the timing belt change.
4. Is the old one bad?
5. Why? Do you know your engine is sludged?
6. All oil is "high detergent" if you are using quality oil.

I don't see anything there about checking the actual running oil pressure or operation of the PCV system. These are simple tests that should be done prior to any other work.

 

This is a Volvo Mechanic, and the reason he is suggesting this is, is because the problem isn't constant. For example if you let the car sit and idle, the problem doesnt occur. Its only after driving for a little while does this problem occur. Then if you pull over, and turn the car off then turn it back on, the problem is gone.

 

It still looks like he is suggesting doing a whole bunch of work that "hopefully" will fix the problem, rather than doing a little bit of work through a couple of simple tests and determining what problem you actually have. If your car at 235k has never had the PCV system done, then it is well past due. Bad PCV will cause excessive crankcase pressure that can blow out the oil seal and cause huge oil leaks.

It will not cause low oil pressure though (until it blows out ALL the oil, or causes so much sludge that your oil pickup or other oil passages are blocked).

So you have TWO issues. One issue is oil leak, the other is possible low oil pressure. Both are easy to pinpoint.

 

Is Doing the PCV a big job?


(p.s. I do need to get the Timing Belt changed)

 

If you replace the whole PCV system and have the dealer do it you are looking around $1500 (I just got quoted that by the Volvo Dealer a couple of months ago). Hopefully your area is cheaper.

 

Yeah, that price will vary, but it's hours of work plus the PCV kit for a couple hundred bucks. But it's very easy to check function of the PCV. It can be done with a special gauge to measure crankcase pressure. Volvo has a spec for how much pressure you should see. A "home" way of doing it is to put a thin nitrile or latex glove over the oil filler (cap removed). There should be vacuum there with the engine running (glove gets sucked in) and not pressure (glove bulges out).

Here's a decent video:

(other than the guy calls it a PVC system now and then....)

 

Well.. I'm praying to god that after the mechanic does all of his work. It sorts out the problem. When driving my car, the dipstick never popped out, and I never had any oil leaks at the top end. I will do these tests ASAP. If it turns out that my pcv is in need of replacing, I will attempt this job myself to save me some money.

 

there are some o-rings in the suction pipe in the oil pan that becomes brittle over time and will start leaking, when it's bad enough you will loose oil pressure. that is of course other parts are function correctly.
That camshaft sensor usally get clogged over time due to bad oil and or to much milage between oil changes. if not the solnoid inside is broken.

 

Yeah, as temperatures get higher and higher, oil gets thinner and thinner. Oil pressure is highest when the engine is coldest. . . Unless your main bearings are shot.

 

Today I bottomed out and my car started leaking oil from the bottom, havnt been able see it yet, but any suggestions? It shows up at "No oil pressure"


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Maybe you hit your oil pan and put a whole in it? Hopefully you shut the car off immediately.

 

I drove a mile home:/ but it was still flowin out when I pulled in, no ticking or knocking. Very scary, expensive fix..


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Hi

how did you end up fixing the problem? Im going through the exactly the same issue with my 2006 volvo s60 2.5 turbo.

george

 

Same here. Exact same thing. I took the 2007 S60 out and floored the pedal to get on an on-ramp to get to 60 MPH rather quickly. About 1 minute later the No Oil pressure message came up and was flickering/blinking , I pulled over about 4 miles later and shut it down. Let it sit for about a minute and drove home with a flickering light, I assumed it was not really a bad Oil pump. Anyway, I scanned the car when I got home and had. Checked Oil and was looking great at the proper level. Scanned codes and had Camshaft sensor message. I instinctively cleared without really reading the whole message. I don’t remember seeing Variable valve timing message, and I don’t even know if my car has it, but it would make more sense if it was.

 

My issue was the PCV canister was clogged and the pickup oil tube from the oil pan was also clogged with deposits.

 

The camshaft solenoid code comes on because the oil does not reach properly all the way to the top of the engine