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Spent most of my weekend working on the rover but i did turn the key on the C70 to see what it would do. Under the hood they pulled all the plugs, left screws lying around on the block, and lost the engine cover and timing cover which I am trying to chase down. Its cranking so I don't know what the shop means by "locked up". Should have checked that before ordering a new motor...
Hahaha. Oh no! Could you imagine if all that was wrong was it was missing its spark plugs?! Like the shop was tryna pull a fast one on the previous owner in an attempt to get him to spring for a whole new engine.
 
Spent most of my weekend working on the rover but i did turn the key on the C70 to see what it would do. Under the hood they pulled all the plugs, left screws lying around on the block, and lost the engine cover and timing cover which I am trying to chase down. Its cranking so I don't know what the shop means by "locked up". Should have checked that before ordering a new motor...
Locked up meaning “we don’t want to deal with this. Buy a new engine and we’ll replace it”?

When you’re done with the Land Rover, do a combustion leak test on the coolant reservoir to see if the head gasket is blown. If the test fails, then pull the cylinder head. Confirm the block is fine and there are not cracked cylinder walls. If so, then you can choose whether have the original cylinder head fixed or get another one.
 
Anyone know of a good cheap shop you can ship the head to and have them do it? I try to have that done in the PNW and I might as well buy a used engine.
 
Spent most of my weekend working on the rover but i did turn the key on the C70 to see what it would do. Under the hood they pulled all the plugs, left screws lying around on the block, and lost the engine cover and timing cover which I am trying to chase down. Its cranking so I don't know what the shop means by "locked up". Should have checked that before ordering a new motor...
well here the plus side of it turning overand the blo0ck core is good rebuild and save just in case. i did that with my forester and ihave 2 ej 251's. one is the original and another i rebuilt and ready to go
 
Anyone know of a good cheap shop
Not a good start - Cheap is really not what you should be focusing on. Sorry - I would hope correct repair procedures from people that know what they are doing would be a consideration - If you are going to spend that much time to R&R your head - is your focus really on how cheap the head repair is?

If you go cheap and there is a problem with the head work - what happens then?
 
Spent most of my weekend working on the rover but i did turn the key on the C70 to see what it would do. Under the hood they pulled all the plugs, left screws lying around on the block, and lost the engine cover and timing cover which I am trying to chase down. Its cranking so I don't know what the shop means by "locked up". Should have checked that before ordering a new motor...
Not sure what you have checked so far on the C70. I am going to offer some opinion here. You can take the Lr4 apart you do not need much help on the C70. That is an awesome project in your garage. Very nice pics.
For the C70, connect a battery charger and do a compression test. 90 psi or above OK. "0" psi, bent valve.
Getting a copy of VIDA will show the repair process w/special tools ect. Since it turns over the connecting rods and bottom end are probably OK. Also, the timing is probably still in time. If overheated, the head will need to be remove, sent out to be checked and machined if needed. From overheating, it would be rare if the engine block was damaged, warped. This engine uses solid lifters. When checking/adjusting the valve clearance, you change out the solid lifter for a thicker or thinner bucket to get the correct clearance. We have the machine shop do this. They will move lifters around, grind the valve stem top some, if too close. Also replace all of the valves. There are non-oem valves that are not that expensive. A good machine shop should know all of this. Ask the machine shop if they have worked on Volvo heads. If you have a NAPA parts store in your area, they should know a machine shop or have their own machine shop. Replace the radiator hoses. The one below the air filter box will fail and leak water. Replace the heater hoses, engine to fire wall. The plastic connection will break off. If installing the replacement engine, At least change the timing belt kit and water pump. It would be a good idea the change out the cam seals front and back. They will eventually start to leak. Keep us posted on the repairs and on the Lr4.
If you are not sure about a repair or procedure, just ask. We are all here to help each other out.
Search here for Volvo VIDA it is VmWare the loads windows 7, then click on VIDA icon to get into VIDA.
Downloads — NordCarolina
Volvo Diagnostics – Virtual Machines, Installers and More Wiring diagrams also 2005-2014
Volvo TechTips - Automotive Tech Info Have various repair info on Volvo's. Download back issues.
 
Not a good start - Cheap is really not what you should be focusing on. Sorry - I would hope correct repair procedures from people that know what they are doing would be a consideration - If you are going to spend that much time to R&R your head - is your focus really on how cheap the head repair is?

If you go cheap and there is a problem with the head work - what happens then?
Yeah, I should have used reasonable. You obviously don't live up here. Prices are literally double the most reasonable good shops around the country. And you can't get it done in less than a month. Someone on my Nextdoor feed was going to ship his car to Boise for a major repair, it was that much more in the Seattle area.
 
Any P1 engine will fit.
If over heated, there is a good chance that the head has to be removed, machined, installed and drive the car. Any idea why the repair center said that it needs an engine. Does the engine oil look like milkshake. If yes, coolant got into the engine oil. and may have comprised the rod bearings. Coolant has a sugary consistency and does not mix/lubricate well on the rod and main bearings.
B5254T3 and B5254T7 are the same engine.
B=gas, 5=5 cylinder, 25=2.5 Litre, 4=4 valves per cylinder. T3,T7 are different turbo's.
B5254T3 used in C70 2006-2007 engine code 68
B5254T7 used in C70 2008-2013 engine code should be 67
I looked thru VIDA and can not find B5254T7 engine spec for P1's.
The below 5254T7 listed specs for 5354T3
View attachment 213217

View attachment 213218

Below is the engines for 2011- S60

View attachment 213220


View attachment 213222
Help me 04 lpt is it better to swap 7m gte engine from supra or ej20g from wrx
 
Any P1 engine will fit.
If over heated, there is a good chance that the head has to be removed, machined, installed and drive the car. Any idea why the repair center said that it needs an engine. Does the engine oil look like milkshake. If yes, coolant got into the engine oil. and may have comprised the rod bearings. Coolant has a sugary consistency and does not mix/lubricate well on the rod and main bearings.
B5254T3 and B5254T7 are the same engine.
B=gas, 5=5 cylinder, 25=2.5 Litre, 4=4 valves per cylinder. T3,T7 are different turbo's.
B5254T3 used in C70 2006-2007 engine code 68
B5254T7 used in C70 2008-2013 engine code should be 67
I looked thru VIDA and can not find B5254T7 engine spec for P1's.
The below 5254T7 listed specs for 5354T3
View attachment 213217

View attachment 213218

Below is the engines for 2011- S60

View attachment 213220


View attachment 213222
Image
 
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