Hello so i bit the bullet and brought a c70 with 117,000 on the dash. There a squeak on the belt but other than that car sounds fine. The dealer is sketch but asking once i get the car checked out what major repairs should i do first? Also wonder if the oem coolant is supposed to blue. I'm a Subaru mechanic so volvos are enigma to me and kinda weird enough to own.
Chemilla
Congratulations! The first thing you want to address is the timing belt and tensioners, they're due at 120k miles or 10 years. Same thing for the serpentine belts and tensioners. Replace those ASAP because these are interference engines. Also you'll want to replace the radiator hoses, heater core hoses and the thermostat housing, They have plastic composite fittings that degrade and will leak coolant. These engines are very sensitive to overheating.
It's possible it has old coolant or has an universal one. I know the genuine stuff was blue at some point, but they changed it to green here in the U.S. at some point. While in other parts of the world is still blue. With that being said, all the jugs of genuine coolant I bought during the past 4 years, all of them were green.
It's possible it has old coolant or has an universal one. I know the genuine stuff was blue at some point, but they changed it to green here in the U.S. at some point. While in other parts of the world is still blue. With that being said, all the jugs of genuine coolant I bought during the past 4 years, all of them were green.
okay cool. that good to know. same as subaru ejs. i wished they used chains but beggers cannot be choosers. btw pricing out how much would i spend on the a timing belt and for those, would oem be the best way to go? or are there a really good after market like asin(for ex) for the belt kit.
Congratulations! Where's the obligatory pics?
Repairpal.com puts timing belt replacement around a grand, which is about what I paid for. It was the first thing I had done immediately after buying it, based on a lot of comments here and elsewhere about P1 Volvos.
I've been trying to do my own work since then as a complete-amateur-with-no-experience-let-alone-with-Volvos. For a guy trying to learn, reading stuff and watching videos about getting P1 Volvos to Stage 0 has been helpful for first maintenance and repairs. A few are here, there, and yonder plus different posts here at SS. I've also found helpful DIY writeups at Pelican Parts and Import Sauce. There's also a few tech documents over at the UK Volvo Owner's Club.
IPDUSA, FCP Euro, Viva Performance and Elevate seem to be popular for parts, OEM and aftermarket. I've been using FCP Euro mostly so far since shipping has been free. I ordered a few things from Erie VoVo, which is one of the go-to's for used parts.
If you're a mechanic, then you may be interesting in getting VIDA/DICE. VIDA is the software Volvo dealers use and DICE is the OBD2 diagnostic tool. Here's one youtube video explanation. And you may want to check out this website if you're interested in getting your own setup.
Repairpal.com puts timing belt replacement around a grand, which is about what I paid for. It was the first thing I had done immediately after buying it, based on a lot of comments here and elsewhere about P1 Volvos.
I've been trying to do my own work since then as a complete-amateur-with-no-experience-let-alone-with-Volvos. For a guy trying to learn, reading stuff and watching videos about getting P1 Volvos to Stage 0 has been helpful for first maintenance and repairs. A few are here, there, and yonder plus different posts here at SS. I've also found helpful DIY writeups at Pelican Parts and Import Sauce. There's also a few tech documents over at the UK Volvo Owner's Club.
IPDUSA, FCP Euro, Viva Performance and Elevate seem to be popular for parts, OEM and aftermarket. I've been using FCP Euro mostly so far since shipping has been free. I ordered a few things from Erie VoVo, which is one of the go-to's for used parts.
If you're a mechanic, then you may be interesting in getting VIDA/DICE. VIDA is the software Volvo dealers use and DICE is the OBD2 diagnostic tool. Here's one youtube video explanation. And you may want to check out this website if you're interested in getting your own setup.
THIS is what the OP was looking for, and I was too busy to give. 100% need to stage zero it, and TB is first.
If the engine is properly mantained, you can get lots of miles out of it. 300k miles won't be difficult at all to get out of it and I bet it would still have more to go. There are several cars with basically the same engine at that mileage (C30, S40, S60, V50 and V70 IIRC). I don't remember reading about turbos failing prematurely, but shoudln't be expensive to repair/rebuild.
Well, you can check it, there’s a yellow dipstick on the front of the transmission under the ECU, not very easy to access, but if you remove the ECU cover, you can reach it.
Here's the picture: (It's my other car, but the transmission is the same, just ignore the engine (which is basically the same, but non turbo)
![Image]()
And there’s this “procedure” to check the ATF level:
www.swedespeed.com
Here's the picture: (It's my other car, but the transmission is the same, just ignore the engine (which is basically the same, but non turbo)
And there’s this “procedure” to check the ATF level:
Transmission Shifting Issue. (HELP)
This is a long shot but I am wondering if anyone has had transmission shifting issues with their Volvo? I have a 2007 Volvo V50 and it works great other than it somewhat cutting out when accelerating and rarely but sometimes while driving. I have gone to many mechanics including Volvo, trying to...
www.swedespeed.com
Check out this link for the roof bump stops.
(106) C70 Roof Out of Alignment | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum
(106) C70 Roof Out of Alignment | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum
Unfortunately no, there aren't many aesthetic mods available for these cars nowadays. There used to be some front splitters and rear diffusers and other minor stuff available, but they were discontinued quite a while ago. The way I see this, is that it will have to be a custom work, either starting from scratch or adapting parts meant for other cars.
This is the latest thread about a front splitter:
www.swedespeed.com
This is the latest thread about a front splitter:
Yet Another Plea for a P1 C70 Front Spoiler Mod
I've crawled all through this forum looking for tips to mod the front bumper. I've read the older post that Heico had something available once upon a time. I've seen responses to questions if C30 or V50 or S60 aftermarkets would fit which seem like very emphatic NOs. There's been plenty of...
www.swedespeed.com
everyone the car is here and oh boy problems. SO when i came i drove it and the engine is kinda sluggish and i got an transmission service required when i went into reverse,. then i restart the car and it went back to normal. but i got a code for running too rich p0271 any ideas
The trans error is weird, Since this is the car where they replaced the trans, I would check the ATF level.
P0271, check for boost leaks. You could also monitor the MAP sensor readings, stock boost pressure at WOT is ~10 psi. 1st and 2nd gear is limited to 5psi.
P0271, check for boost leaks. You could also monitor the MAP sensor readings, stock boost pressure at WOT is ~10 psi. 1st and 2nd gear is limited to 5psi.
Still didn't get a chance on the transmission though. But do catastrophic failure happen on these Transmissions? I Asisn is a good company it if I happen to check and the fuild looks good and on the line could it be the valve body?
Try scanning the car, see what stored errors come up. Also check the trans oil level, just in case
You could try making a thread asking if there's another forum member with VIDA close to your area that could help you scanning the car. If not, check in ebay for a DiCE unit, they run around $130 and you'll need a laptop running windows 7 to install VIDA.
Here's the link of a DiCE (Link here): it says the seller is located in Suffern, NY
Here's the link of a DiCE (Link here): it says the seller is located in Suffern, NY
Hopefully is something simple. Be careful where you download the software. Some of them are infected with viruses. If you try to install them, try doing it on a spare laptop that doesn't contain important files. So worst case scenario you can restore it and go back to normal.
I think you wrote that you got your car at a dealers. They should have a warranty with it, so I'd take the car back to them and let them do the work and repairs. Even if it isn't a Volvo dealer & shop, they should stand behind their warranty. If it is a Volvo dealer, so much the better. if they can't fix it, don't accept that. I have a 2013 C70 which I bought from a Mercedes dealership. I spotted the roof liner not working correctly, and they had to send it to a Volvo Shop to have a new one installed (on their nickel). And, when a Volvo Shop repairs anything, they stand beside it for the life of the car (your ownership) - even the parts. That's why I take my C70 to the Dealer's. Sure, I may pay a bit more, but the guarantee is worth it, and I also get a free loaner until the C70's fixed. ( I do work on changing the oil, filters, plugs and the like. I like getting my hands a bit into the car.)
Don't get too "deep" into fixing the problems; that may void the warranty. Let them do that work for you.
By the way, do NOT work on the top yourself! Lubing is fine and maybe making sure that the cables (inspect those carefully! If they are frayed, start looking for them right now. Some are almost impossible to find!) and wiring is hooked into their holders. That's important: a crushed cable will be a real headache, and not a cheap one either. Find a shop that has an experienced, certified top mechanic. Ask specifically for that.
I also discovered that using the OEM spark plugs worked wonders. I had "as-good-as" plugs in it, but when I went to the Volvo ones, it's like the car woke up.
If you want to do something good for the handling, (and, it's almost a necessity) buy an over-the-engine' stabilizer bar. That, with a beefier rear one, will almost eliminate body roll, which this car is notorious for. A windscreen is a good idea, too. They help disperse the wind when your driving with the top down, so you can easily hear the other person, and, you don't feel like the wind beat you up on lionger drives.
I had an '06, and loved it so much, had to get another C70. They are a fun car, and in my opinion, Volvo's best.
Have fun with it!
Drive laughing!
Tedders
Don't get too "deep" into fixing the problems; that may void the warranty. Let them do that work for you.
By the way, do NOT work on the top yourself! Lubing is fine and maybe making sure that the cables (inspect those carefully! If they are frayed, start looking for them right now. Some are almost impossible to find!) and wiring is hooked into their holders. That's important: a crushed cable will be a real headache, and not a cheap one either. Find a shop that has an experienced, certified top mechanic. Ask specifically for that.
I also discovered that using the OEM spark plugs worked wonders. I had "as-good-as" plugs in it, but when I went to the Volvo ones, it's like the car woke up.
If you want to do something good for the handling, (and, it's almost a necessity) buy an over-the-engine' stabilizer bar. That, with a beefier rear one, will almost eliminate body roll, which this car is notorious for. A windscreen is a good idea, too. They help disperse the wind when your driving with the top down, so you can easily hear the other person, and, you don't feel like the wind beat you up on lionger drives.
I had an '06, and loved it so much, had to get another C70. They are a fun car, and in my opinion, Volvo's best.
Have fun with it!
Drive laughing!
Tedders
hmmmm, then I guess they put the old transmission fluid back in when they replaced the pan in 2021. No way it gets that black in roughly 9k miles. IF the transmission pan was actually replaced. There's also the possibility it's just a report error and the job was never done.
It needs to be changed for sure. But before that: did it drive fine? no other issues?
And most importantly, did you contact the dealer that sold you the car?
It needs to be changed for sure. But before that: did it drive fine? no other issues?
And most importantly, did you contact the dealer that sold you the car?
Changing the fluid is just a first step, to make sure the transmission is filled with the correct stuff. We don't know if it has the wrong fluid, which can complicate the troubleshooting.
Whether doing a drain & refill or flushing it is up to you. I've only done drain and refills on both of my cars (I don't have access to a flush machine) which replaces around 50% of the total fluid at a time. Did it 3 times to get it to approximately 87% new fluid. No issues so far.
Try recreating the steps that led to the warning message to see if it happens again.
The transmission isn't anything special. It's just a regular automatic transaxle that uses JWS3309 fluid. Imagine it's a subaru that you don't know the history of it:
Maybe some knucklehead topped off the trans with Rotella 15W-40.
Maybe it's a damaged wire or loose connector at the transmission module, that isn't making good contact, and when you engage reverse gear, which causes the engine to move forward and maybe pulls on the wiring.
Keep in mind, these are the only symptoms I know so far about:
Whether doing a drain & refill or flushing it is up to you. I've only done drain and refills on both of my cars (I don't have access to a flush machine) which replaces around 50% of the total fluid at a time. Did it 3 times to get it to approximately 87% new fluid. No issues so far.
Try recreating the steps that led to the warning message to see if it happens again.
The transmission isn't anything special. It's just a regular automatic transaxle that uses JWS3309 fluid. Imagine it's a subaru that you don't know the history of it:
Maybe some knucklehead topped off the trans with Rotella 15W-40.
Maybe it's a damaged wire or loose connector at the transmission module, that isn't making good contact, and when you engage reverse gear, which causes the engine to move forward and maybe pulls on the wiring.
Keep in mind, these are the only symptoms I know so far about:
- Car drove sluggish, got P0271 (No idea if this happened again or not)
- Engaged reverse and got a "transmission service urgent" message
- Trans oil is black (Pretty normal at 117k miles to be honest. I bet it's the trans fluid that came from factory)
if funny you say that cause thats is how im treating it. So this what im gonna do im getting the dice system on Thursday right now I'm trying to get vida it installed on my laptop. (it almost done) im gonna go this shop that handles euro cars and me and the mechanic will look over the codes together. once we find out what the code is ill post, i was just outside in the car before and checking the dtcs in the car i also has a cem set which is the central module. also to add on i check the top wiring in detph the cables aren't frayed at all whihc is good but i did move the cable around in places where they cant really get caught
i looked and i cloudn't get a good feel for it but it does make sense that what it could be. I drove her just now in local and she going and driving but it was for like 5 mins
Wastegate rod play? hmmmmm, that could explain why it drove sluggish bleeding exhaust gasses and not spinning the turbo enough. Also, it's weird for that being loose.
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