BMS. It can only be done in VIDA.

 

Thanks!
So if you have VIDA you can do it yourself otherwise need the dealer.
If not done it will affect the life of the new battery if I understand this correctly, right?

 

If the BMS is wrong it will read the charge on the battery wrong.

Now that I have a dice, I did the battery test and it showed as a 19% state of charge vs the full (or almost full) battery based on my battery tender. I found that the BMS in my car was never reset. It should be done when the battery is changed or the the BMS sensor is changed.

My understanding is not that it affects the life of the battery, but rather the cars reading of the battery. I would get low battery warnings soon after shutting the car off and the car would go into power save mode even if the battery was not near death.

 

Great feature. In 10 years we won't be allowed to add air to the tires.

 

I hope that is the case. I really want to see some of the deficiencies of non-pneumatic tires addressed and acceptable solutions built for the automotive market (comfort, heat).

(I know you were posting in jest)

 

Yeah, this whole opening and closing the door thing is getting old, as well. As is putting on the seat belt.

 

I know you can reset the CEM module or some other modules by removing the dedicated fuse for a few minutes..Maybe removing a fuse would reset that BMS?

 

Sure would be nice to find a work-around to this silly BMS situation and the need for a dealer visit $$

 

Is it giving you any issues since replacing the battery? Not all have BMS, like mine, so it was fine after replacing the battery.
You can check if you have BMS by looking for a wire that runs across the battery and connected to the positive terminal with a 10mm (IIRC) nut, like this:

 

Removing the power will not reset BMS. You remove power when you replace the battery. Removing power is sort of like restarting a computer. It will reset some values but others are stored.

This is a module that needs to be reset with VIDA. Stinks, but it should be a relatively small fee (couldn't imagine a dealer would charge more than 1/2 hour of labor) and only need to be done every 5 years or so.

 

This BMS, does it have any adverse effects if left unattended after replacing a battery?

 

Found this manual BMS reset procedure that someone said worked on another forum:

"Bms reset just disconnect small plug on positive battery terminal for 25 seconds then refit" .

No clue if it works...

Found this to support that, too:

 

I just tested both of these, neither worked.

 

Thank you all for the replies. I was asking for someone else, not me.
I sent them a link to the youtube video.

 

Hi guys,

Just an update on BMS story. I have talked to the Volvo people and they said after replacing the battery, the BMS will reset/re-calibrate itself after some time (maybe a few days). So as long as you don't see the battery low error message (after switching off the engine and leaving radio on for a minute or so), then all is good and there is no need to worry about resetting the BMS.

Thanks guys

 

This is wrong. I am "Volvo people".

 

I'm pretty sure any manufacturer would advise against changing the battery with the engine running.

The BMS is not a safety feature, so I don't understand the link you are trying to make. It is also not exclusive to Volvo.

The self calibration theory doesn't make sense. The BMS works with the ECM to determine battery charge and the ECM can vary alternator output accordingly based on State of Charge and State of Health of the battery.

If you replace a dead or near dead battery and the BMS is not reset, you'll actually experience undercharging, which obviously won't be good for your new battery in the long term. I have had several people bring their car in saying they are getting a low battery warning even though they had their battery replaced. Sure enough, the BMS counter shows it was never reset. Recharge their battery, reset the BMS and I haven't had one come back yet.

 

Yes, it seems the BMS has to be reset. I didn't know about it and wouldn't have if I wasn't bothered by the fact the manual say we must not change the batter while the engine is running, and we did that (hope nothing was dameged).

Thanks again for the reply.

 

By the way, the dealer agreed to do BMS reset at no charge. So I don't see why anyone would do funny things to achieve that. I'm thinking even if they charge, it wouldn't be so much as to try to do it yourself

 

I started to think my local Stealership is ran by a lawyer, I won't be surprised if they send me a bill for a question over the phone lol

 

Yeah there is no regenerative braking. The alternator can be commanded on or off (and output varied when on).

 

Tell that to Volvo. Bottom Page 55.
https://cdn.dealereprocess.net/cdn/brochures/volvo/2012-s60.pdf

Volvo's intelligent brake kinetic energy regeneration.

 

I meant regenerative braking in the traditional sense of the brakes being used to generate the current. This basically uses the engine and alternator. Still interesting and yes, not resetting the BMS would cause this to not work properly.

 

In my opinion, the title of that paragraph on page 55 "Brake energy regeneration" is wrong.
While it is converting kinetic energy to electric energy which is by definition generation, it has nothing to do with braking. They should have not used the word braking in the title.
The body of the paragraph explains it correctly.
The process might be triggered by applying the brakes but has nothing to do with the brakes in the way it would in hybrid or electric cars. The brakes are purely frictional. There are no generators attached to the wheels to convert kinetic energy into electricity and hence slowing the car in the process.

 

Incorrect. When the alternator is supplying power it presents a load to the engine. Any load on an engine will slow it down. So by simply removing your foot from the accelerator the CEM engages the alternator which presents a load to the engine causing the car to slow via engine braking.

While the system may not look like one from a hybrid (no one ever said it did) it is essentially doing the same thing.

 

Many would no doubt do it incorrectly.

 

The car is not using the alternator to brake. Regenerative braking is hybrid terminology.

 

Any load presented to the engine causes braking.

I'm really done arguing semantics on this. Call it what you will. I'll call it what it is.

 

But the car isn't using the alternator to brake. Just like cars don't use the AC compressor to brake.

 

Then you might want to petition BMW as well.
https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1028076_bmw-5-series-update-gets-regenerative-braking-system

 

Dude. You aren't following. I expect the car manufacturers to confuse the public by exaggerating how fancy their new tech is. But, I also expect the users on a board full of car people not to parrot the the exaggerations of the manufacturer.

 

Dude, neither are you. There is no difference, other than scale, between what Volvo/BMW is doing and what Hybrids do. I would expect users on a board full of car people to understand this simple concept.

 

This is wrong. Tech explained why. I explained why. The textbook definition of "regenerative braking" explains why.

 

BM$ will continue to be reset at the dealer after a battery change until morale improve$...

 

imgur is the easiest site to host pictures (in my opinion). Create an account, upload your photo and they give you options for links, BB code, etc. to post to forums in a variety of formats. With the option for linking to forums you just paste the text with your reply. Just be sure you observe what the picture is being posted as. You do not have to do a full size picture, you can have it resized to be more appropriately sized from the options

 

imgur is the easiest site to host pictures (in my opinion). Create an account, upload your photo and they give you options for links, BB code, etc. to post to forums in a variety of formats. With the option for linking to forums you just paste the text with your reply. Just be sure you observe what the picture is being posted as. You do not have to do a full size picture, you cannot have it resized to be more appropriately sized from the options

Thanks, I'll have a look at it 😄

 

I don't feel like a new thread is necessary, so I'll just piggyback onto this one. Here's my battery saga as of today.

Shortly after I bought my 2015 V60 T5 in March 2018 with 72k mi, the stop/start system barely ever worked. The My Car screen would say stop/start unavailable. Only after long interstate drives, at the end of the drive when it town, would start/stop be available and work. Based on reading this forum I concluded this was either because the auxiliary stop/start battery was dead/dying, or the main battery was old enough that the car disabled stop/start because it wasn't charged up high enough to safely run it. The car radio would regularly turn off after a few minutes of listening when the engine wasn't running. A few months later, I got a few random low battery warnings when starting the car, but it always started up fine. Then I stopped getting the low battery warnings. Then I dealt with my engine issues and forgot about the battery. I enjoyed start/stop not working, so I wasn't going to replace the battery prematurely just for that.

Early this week, my car finally began to have trouble starting. Then yesterday, when I went to leave for work, it wouldn't start. I hooked it up to a jump box and it started right up. Same thing with 4 other starts throughout the day. So I concluded that the battery is finally dead. It made it about 4.5 years and 86k miles. I was really surprised to not get a single low battery message leading up to the dead battery though.

I searched all over for the best prices on batteries and called the dealer. Dealer quoted $360 for a battery replacement (which I assume included resetting the BMS). Since I was able to find a BOSCH battery with a 4 year warranty at a Pep Boys for $146+tax, and Pep Boys was open until 8:00 PM, I just decided to change it myself and deal with the BMS later. The dealer quoted $125 for a BMS reset by itself. If I had other things I needed at the dealer, or if the dealership location was more convenient, I would see if I could swing by and get them to do it cheaper since it doesn't take a full hour. But since those aren't the case, I not bothering with the dealer.

I found a too good to be true cheap Chinese DiCE unit on ebay for $20. I assume it will be junk, but if I can get it working with my laptop and the VIDA software from this forum, I will reset the BMS. For $20, I figure it's worth a shot. My car has already recognized that the battery is new because start/stop is now working. Since the car can tell that the battery has enough juice to run the start/stop system, I really don't understand what function the BMS has or why it needs to be reset. I really am thinking it's more of a "let's make it harder for people and indy shops to work on our cars" type strategy.

 

Since the car can tell that the battery has enough juice to run the start/stop system, I really don't understand what function the BMS has or why it needs to be reset. I really am thinking it's more of a "let's make it harder for people and indy shops to work on our cars" type strategy.

The BMS directly monitors only three things. Voltage, Amperage in/out, and temperature. It then uses these values in algorithms to determine a battery's state of charge, state of function (amp hour capacity), and state of health (akin to age). The CEM uses this information to decide what to turn off, etc. This allows the CEM to start disabling non-critical functions (radio, auto start/stop, intelligent alternator control, etc.) in order to avoid a battery going completely dead. Resetting the BMS basically tells the car "hey, I just put in a brand new battery, so you need to account for that when you're making adjustments for how to charge the battery." It's not as critical as some think, but it should help the CEM optimize its charging strategies and maximize the life of your current battery. FWIW, the BMS used by Ford during this same time period would automatically "reset" itself if the car was left completely alone for at least 8 hours (no starting, no locking/unlocking, no opening a door, no anything with the car for 8 hours). On Fords the reset procedure in Ford's software was so you didn't have to wait those 8 hours. I have never been able to find out if Volvo's software was similar in that regard.

And good luck with the DiCE!

 

Nice job. Buying the Chinese DICE unit is a roll of the dice but hope it works and you'll never need it. Nice to have in the event needed but hopefully your car will run trouble free since the rebuild install. Has it been running good with the newly installed engine ?

My battery died after about its 5th year and we are on our 2nd battery, a NAPA Legend battery purchased through our indy who uses them for his parts. Surprised to see a delivery driver at the shop who has a job and can survive in today's rather challenging and competitive retail market where Pep Boys, Advance, AutoZone, etc. are now competing with Amazon.

I stood near the shop and just wondered how tough the market has become. The man delivering the part was a very humble guy and I was just hoping somehow everyone can survive.

Good luck with the new battery.