That looks like more of a project then I would ever know how to tackle... But I'm impressed to see the love, dedication and horsepower that you're gonna get out of this baby! When you're done (or preferably before you start) can you build and angle gear assembly that can handle the power and torque

 

I'm not real sure about what I'm doing in that department yet. I have the weak ass 04 tranny so I'm thinking of upgrading to an 06/07 tranny but it will require ecu changes. I think I may run it until something goes, and then buy an MT to put it in. Not real sure yet. I may buy an angle gear to toy with after I finish this build. I dont drag race, so I dont think it'll be a major immediate issue.

 

Look forward to some updates! Looks like an awesome project! Be careful of weakened aluminum parts from the fire.

 

I'm thinking the cryo treatment will fix it. And judging by the looks of the melted plastic I don't think it was a real hot / lasting fire.

 

Good luck man!!

 

wow...coool.

 

Looks like a fun project! Good job taking the dive into new territory.

Drop me an email, I've got plenty of ideas and resources available to help with your build (parts and services)!

 

99k on it, doesn't matter because all wear items will be changed. I just needed a core, and this was a very good one.

Cryo is explained in KillerB's build thread.

I think the Awd system will be ok since I don't drag race. I'm more into road course and top end speed. Also why I don't mind having a 1st and 2nd gear neutered car. But if you were going at it from a stop I'm sure it would give quickly.

 

Cool, I am planing to do the same with my Rosie!
For now I'm still sourcing the parts, but I am looking to go very big with power. Gues I'm getting influenced by mu friend who has 2.1L Ford Fiesta w 400+ up and he is on his way to 650 hp with that tiny engine

 

Ford's are beasts. My next car will be a SHO.

 

I'm officially adding an angle gear to the mix. I just ordered one and will be also stripping it to cryo treat most of the parts, put new seals in it and I will be cryo treating a new angle gear sleeve also. So hopefully I can deliver the power to the ground without worry.

 

NICE! I was always wondering why someone hadn't mentioned cryo treating the angle gear in all the build threads I've read!

But seriously? The SHO is ugly as ****

 

Positive

 

yes, i positively think that is a beautiful beast!

 

Wow, I hope you paid next to nothing for that motor! Very aggressive build. You'll need new cam adjusters - you weren't involved with the two sets that I just sold, were you?

What I plan on doing (and will do, eventually) is using R parts on a 2.4L block (in place of sleeving, for the reduced cost and added ease). I would also like to cry treat, etc. but most of my build will hinge on a slightly increased compression ration (via shaved head I'm thinking at this point) and the more robust block.

 

Wow, I hope you paid next to nothing for that motor!

I got a good deal on it. I only need the metal and I have a blasting booth big enough for every part. By Sunday I hope to have it stripped and blasted so I can send the head and intermediate section away on Monday for the Darton Sleeves and send other parts out for cryo. I'm about 99% sure Viva (George) is going to be taking care of the whole bottom end (pending a good quote).

 

MAYBE grooving the head, KillerB sent me some really good stuff on grooved heads but I'm on the fence.

He's referring to the Somender Singh Theory.

http://somender-singh.com/content/view/7/31/

Darton Sleeves, JE pistons (9:1), Ktuned Rods (up in the air, but so far thats the idea) - All cryo'd. ceramic coated piston tops and the side coatings (forgot the name)

crowns-metallic ceramic thermal
side skirts- Teflon dry film protection for anti-friction.

http://powermachineservice.com/power_machine_services.htm

Head gasket matched and cryo'd, exhaust side ceramic coated, combustion chamber area ceramic coated.

I think you meant port match. You want the intake and exhaust ports on the runners matched to the manifold gasket... not the head gasket.

Intake "spacer" for heat reduction.

I would highly recommend NOT doing this. If you properly ceramic coat the cylinder head, then there will be a huge reduction of heat to the intake manifold. Coating the exhaust manifold and turbo also reduces this transfer to the intake side. The reason why I wouldn't do it... because you actually effect torque and power band output by adjusting the length of the intake manifold.

The only things I cant do is Sleeve install, cryo, and i may/may not do my own ceramics.

Ceramic is pretty cheap to have done. I'd pay to have it done. A lot of it is powder coating and some of it spray on. Some manufactures for pistons can ship them with the coating applied. Another thing to think about is certain colors of metallic ceramic thermal coatings do certain heat ratings. I know there are the blacks, dark greys that do 2200f degrees, then there are a few 1800f degree coatings, some stuff rated to 1400f degrees, then there are dry film lubs and other coatings. You really want the stuff in the hands of the guys that do it and really trust what they recommend. You could choose a 2200f degree coating for the piston crown, only to find out that the thickness effected compression numbers, or pick another another coating that burns off in the first 5k of operation. I think the crowns on mine are rated 1400f, while the manifold and turbo is rated 2200f.

 

I think you meant port match. You want the intake and exhaust ports on the runners matched to the manifold gasket... not the head gasket.

I meant to have the head, gasket matched (on the intake and exhaust sides) forgot a comma.

Ceramic is pretty cheap to have done. I'd pay to have it done. A lot of it is powder coating and some of it spray on. Some manufactures for pistons can ship them with the coating applied. Another thing to think about is certain colors of metallic ceramic thermal coatings do certain heat ratings. I know there are the blacks, dark greys that do 2200f degrees, then there are a few 1800f degree coatings, some stuff rated to 1400f degrees, then there are dry film lubs and other coatings. You really want the stuff in the hands of the guys that do it and really trust what they recommend. You could choose a 2200f degree coating for the piston crown, only to find out that the thickness effected compression numbers, or pick another another coating that burns off in the first 5k of operation. I think the crowns on mine are rated 1400f, while the manifold and turbo is rated 2200f.

I have access to a whole powder coating business, good friends with the owner and he is very confident that we can do it, I'll give it a shot. I'll check it out (by removing spark plug and using a bore scope) occasionally.

 

Hey I'm in the area and would love to come by and check it out, give you a hand and have a cold one.

This totally sounds like fun!!!

What part of town you in???

 

Pm'd

 

hmm.. I would have started with a B5234T5 and swapping in the R parts instead. There's far more choices with the older 2.3L block; custom rods, cylinders and since the block is stronger, it can handle a lot more compression. The 2.5L R block is simply too weak and dumping almost 6K on the Darton sleeves would be a lot of money and effort to achieve the same amount of power output.

check out "The German Volvos" thread

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?145962-The-German-Volvos

oh and cryro won't do anything for the Angle Gear Collar sleeve. adykes mentioned this before that cryro won't harden the material much enough to solve the issue. The part itself is not a good fit, and the material is just too soft. You're better off getting someone to custom make one out of Stainless Steel.

 

oh and cryro won't do anything for the Angle Gear Collar sleeve. adykes mentioned this before that cryro won't harden the material much enough to solve the issue. The part itself is not a good fit, and the material is just too soft. You're better off getting someone to custom make one out of Stainless Steel.

^^ I'll look into that. I can take it to work and heat treat it. Also. It's a $100 part on a $6-8k motor that is easily replaced, it's not the top of the list.

 

ohhh, fun project, good luck!

 

http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/darton_volvo.html

This is win - win. Darton MID Sleeves in a B5234T5

 

If I was going to spend big $$ doing a build, I would spend a few (ok quite a few) more & go this route - this has to be pretty much bullet proof

 

What's the difference? Not that I'm turning back, but if I'm sleeving the motor (with dartons) anyway, why would a different block be better?

 

There isn't any difference. Just because people who have no experience with building engines (and like to regurgitate things they read on the internet) say so, doesn't make it so

 

...it wouldn't.

 

larrys auto machine in groton ct does these all the time. that link is to his website. good stuff. building my b230ft motor as we speek. ask for gary.

 

Well if you're sleeving the block with Darton's. Then no difference, that's the whole point with sleeves. But only pics were of Volvo blocks on Larry's site was this one.

 

Took a little time this morning and stripped 2 sides of the engine.

Sleeves are the way I'm going. I will have my extra good motor anyhow, if it blows it blows. It's a toy.

 

Exhaust side done.

 

Lost a good amount of blood but I won the battle. Had it down to the block with crank and pistons and it slid off the work surface. Tried to catch it and failed.

 

Ouch... I got burnt twice during my CBV install so I can't even begin to imagine how badly that motor kicked your ass , hope your wife/gf didn't see it or else your R motor tuning days would be over LOL

 

She made me stop until the bleeding stopped. She hates the time I spend in the garage.

 

Going forward, can you post larger pictures? It's starting to hurt my eyes