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Most reliable/trouble free xc60?

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34K views 86 replies 21 participants last post by  catfish93  
#1 ·
What is considered to be the most reliable year/version of this generation xc60? Not concerned about power…just safety/reliability and the ability to run regular gas. Imagine the non-turbo 3.2 would be the way to go but not familiar with the nuances of that particular engine or this generation xc. Car would be for a new driver in an area where everyone drives a lifted truck or suv, hence the need for a taller vehicle.
 
#71 ·
I know very few people that use 87 anymore. All the Volvo 6 cylinder engines enjoy premium for its compression quality. All P3 T6 XC60s are going to be the most reliable you can get and the earlier years are getting relatively cheap. I have a friend with a 2010 T6 XC60 and the biggest issue they had was a taillight bulb went out. The SI6 is such a bulletproof motor when maintained correctly and offers better power compared to the 3.2 with similar pricing and reliability.
 
#4 ·
Perhaps the NA engine (T5) would digest 87 but the twin charged FI engine on the T6 wants 93.
They can all run on 87 but if you plan on keeping the car for a while there's no savings on burning El-cheapo gas...you want Top Tier. At high altitudes 91 is the best you can get.
 
#5 ·
Now im confused…I thought engine options were NA straight 6 (3.2), turbo 5 (t5), twin turbo I-6 (t6), and then the later t5 & t6 drive E 4 cyl engines. My father leased 3 of these last decade…a first a 3.2 fwd, a t6 awd, and finally a drive-E t5 fwd. They were all ok to run on 87 octane as per the manual so that’s what he did with no issue. I enjoyed driving both the 3.2 and the t6 when I’d visit him, but wasn’t a fan of the t5 drive-E.

For the sake of this let’s forget octane. Which between the 5 cylinder t5, t6, and 3.2 are generally considered the most reliable and lower maintenance? Are there any years that are considered better or to avoid?
 
#6 ·
Now im confused…I thought engine options were NA straight 6 (3.2), turbo 5 (t5), twin turbo I-6 (t6), and then the later t5 & t6 drive E 4 cyl engines. My father leased 3 of these last decade…a first a 3.2 fwd, a t6 awd, and finally a drive-E t5 fwd. They were all ok to run on 87 octane as per the manual so that’s what he did with no issue. I enjoyed driving both the 3.2 and the t6 when I’d visit him, but wasn’t a fan of the t5 drive-E.

For the sake of this let’s forget octane. Which between the 5 cylinder t5, t6, and 3.2 are generally considered the most reliable and lower maintenance? Are there any years that are considered better or to avoid?
I'm not aware of a turbo 5 ever being available in the 1st gen XC60, at least in the USA. All I've seen are 3.2 NA, 3.0 T6 and the Drive E 4 cylinders. I haven't had my 3.2 very long, but I'm quite impressed with how smooth it is, even with 141k miles on it. They're generally low(er) maintenance: oil, plugs, the basics.

There are going to be common issues with any drivetrain. I'd say the 3.2 is probably pretty robust and reliable.
 
#7 ·
2.5 was available in 2015 and 2016. The T5 AWD had that engine, VIN code 61. Those have potential ring issues though. 2015 and 2016 T5 FWD was Drive-E, and then 2017 all were Drive-E.

The T6 is single turbo, not twin turbo. It shares the common problems with the NA 3.2 (thermostat, compressor, idler and tensioner, PCV breather box). One difference is I saw quite a few 3.2s start throwing cat efficiency codes. The cats are built into the exhaust manifold and is quite a costly repair.
 
#17 ·
One difference is I saw quite a few 3.2s start throwing cat efficiency codes. The cats are built into the exhaust manifold and is quite a costly repair.
Hey! That's me! Haha. My XC70's 3.2's cat related CEL has been on for like a decade now. Haha. I thought about tackling more investigation but you're not joking. Those things are BURIED up in there. One thing's for sure, NOBODY is stealing those. That said, it's ran silk smooth and flawless despite the cat codes so I don't know if anything mechanically is wrong with the system. I'm up to about 230K now, so it's prolly fine. Too expensive to bother repairing for the old girl.

Bomber engine, though!!! Very resiliant and I can't get over just how smooth this thing is for such a high mileage motor. No oil consumption or smoking. It IS boring and slow, though but whatever. That car's just meant to throw it in D and cruise. I treat it like my old DeVille and just chillllll. Absolutely shines off-road and in deep snow, though.
 
#9 ·
87 should be fine. It's a higher displacement but a relatively lower output engine. 3.2's are pretty bulletproof. The piston rings were fixed in the 09 and up ones on 3.2's as far as I know or it may have been 08 so you are well passed that. They all had the T6 style ones in those years as far as I know.

People have them in my area and it's a no bs engine.
 
#10 ·
I've been looking into this generation XC60 as well. The 2016 2.0 T5/T6 prices have dropped a lot recently. You can find examples with the updated piston rings - they exist. You just have to look harder. This version might be a better option, even though you should use premium fuel. According to the EPA, you'll see a 20-30% fuel economy bump over the 3.2 FWD version, so running costs would be a wash.

2017s have not dropped as much yet.
 
#11 ·
That's why they have dropped. 😂 Also I think it's important to note that the 5 cylinder engines on this particular model never got the updated rings made available. If there was a problem as far as I know they put the exact same set back in. So that might be one to stay away from although I love the sound and feel of that particular engine. 😢

But ya 2.0's are good with the good rings. The only other issue that those can have is the balance shaft. Those didn't get changed out until the 2020 model year I believe.
 
#15 ·
As others have said.

In general the 3.2L is the most reliable, if not only slightly down on power.
If you want more power I would look for a 3.0L T6.

Drive-E engines (2.0L) you should probably avoid, especially the T6 variant as that is supercharged in addition. Unless you can guarantee a 2.0L T5 has the updated piston rings, but the 3.2L is no hassle.
 
#16 ·
Thanks all for the input. Not really interested in another drive-E (have a ‘19 xc90 t6), so would be between the 3.2 or t6. Car would be for my daughter to use when she gets her license next year, assuming she continues to do well in school and still deserves it, as well as a spare vehicle for my wife or others in my family.

It probably makes the most sense to go with a 3.2 fwd if we end up going the xc60 route, though I am tempted to spring for a ‘12-13 t6 R design. Probably a not the best idea given its intended use. Regular gas is important bc my daughter will be paying for her own gas, and I don’t want to hear complaints about having to pay for premium.

Other potential options would be a used cx5 (safe but imo not “Volvo” safe) or if I’m lucky, she takes well to driving stick and we can actually get something fun.

Tech, the catalytic converter thing scares me a little. Was this problem across all 3.2’s or only certain years?

Also, I read that some of the 3.2’s had issues with oil leaks in certain years. Can anyone confirm if this is true and what years would be affected?
 
#18 ·
There is a known oil leak location via a vacuum pump, but it's very minor usually and an easy fix.

Both 3.2L and 3.0L burn oil, that is well known. It should not be very excessive, requiring adding oil once or so between changes.

As far as the cat issues, I am not sure aware about those. I have a 3.2L and it has never failed a SMOG or thrown a check engine.
 
#19 ·
The 3.0l T6 is quite content with regular gas, but I believe the r-design includes the polestar tune which does require premium.
 
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#20 ·
Not sure if it's certain years or not- didn't really pay attention and they all blend together after a while. Sometimes the oxygen sensors seize in the manifold. And to do one manifold, you have to remove the heat shield. To remove the heat shield, you have to remove the oxygen sensors. So even if you had a code for one cat and actually bought a new manifold, it can turn into a much bigger job if the other oxygen sensor seizes.

If you don't have smog or emissions tests in your area, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If you don't have one, get a cheap scan tool that can check emissions readiness monitors. If you look at a car, plug it in to see if the monitors have been set. If they haven't, someone just cleared the codes.
 
#21 ·
Sometimes the oxygen sensors seize in the manifold. And to do one manifold, you have to remove the heat shield. To remove the heat shield, you have to remove the oxygen sensors. So even if you had a code for one cat and actually bought a new manifold, it can turn into a much bigger job if the other oxygen sensor seizes.
So dealing with the O2 sensors is kind of like when you buy a pair of scissors, but they're in packaging that requires scissors to open it?
 
#22 ·
Great info…thanks all. Out of curiosity, what might someone expect to pay for a new cat converter/manifold replacement for a 3.2? Live in California so emissions is a thing. It’ll probably be closer to year end before looking for a car so hopefully market softens a little more
 
#24 ·
This is the first I'm really seeing about cat issues. I'd say it can happen, but not a widespread issue. I wouldn't start planning for a massive repair like that.

Start looking around, maybe asking friends on Facebook etc, if anyone you know buys salvage title vehicles to rebuild. Have that person keep an eye out for one that has minor cosmetic damage. You could be into a nice one for maybe $5k or less with needed repairs. There are places to get CarFax reports for $6. Check maintenance history on there.

I got my '11 3.2 AWD with 140k for $4,500, because it had some minor cosmetic damage that deemed it salvage. With the inspection report, my insurance had no problems giving me full coverage.
 
#27 ·
I wouldn't necessarily call it widespread. But I saw it frequently enough it's worth mentioning and being aware of.

The manifold was around $700 if I remember correctly. Including gaskets and the oxygen sensor you might as well do while you're there you're looking at around $1000 to $1100 in parts.

But you said you were in California. I think they have a longer earramty for emissions components... 15 years or 150k maybe?
 
#29 ·
I have a 2012 T6. i bought it new so here are the issues I had:
-failed alternator.
-failed turbo. plastic air inlet connection to turbo was cracked.
-catalytic converter efficiency. replaced under warranty.

I am happy with the vehicle. I change the oil every 8000 km and the transmission has been flushed a couple of times.

it still runs like new after 193,000 km (121,000 miles).

I can tell some suspension bushings are old.
 
#30 ·
Wow…appreciate the info. It’s definitely something I have to consider bc in California, they require only CARB approved converters, which in most cases rules out aftermarket cats. Also CA DMV likes to send older vehicles to special “test-only” stations that are quite strict and will immediately snitch to the dmv if an o2 spacer or “aftermarket” cat is installed.

How about the 3.0 t6 models…I’ve seen some issues with catalytics on these but from what I’ve read, there is only one cat converter correct? Any idea what those might cost?

I probably shouldn’t let a high priced cat scare me from one of these vehicles, but at the exorbitant cost of 3.2 cats, a bad converter would essentially immediately total the vehicle. Mandated factory warranty on converters in CA is only 8yr/80k from what google tells me.
 
#31 ·
#38 ·
Yep - had a cat efficiency code on my 11 S60 T6, poured in a bottle of that money back if it doesn’t work potion figuring I had nothing to lose… code went away and never came back.