Cheap "stainless" will rust out, especially if you live where they salt the roads. Downpipes get very hot and that heat cycle only helps the oxidation process. Even the polished OBX DP will get surface rust the first time you drive in rain. In all honesty, I'd get the polished one because a few members have it on here and they mostly like it.

I'd want some real world examples before I bought a new part for my car. Any info on what steel the mild one is?

 

Wrapping a stainless pipe would eventually cause it to rust, let alone a mild steel one.

Would you install the pipe or would you have it installed at Volvo? If you are paying to install it, get a good pipe that you won't have to pay somebody to replace. IPD, Ferrita, Elevate, whatever.

If you can install it yourself, then it might be worth the risk of saving a bit of money, because if anything doesn't work or it doesn't fit well (not unlikely with OBX) you won't be paying a nearly $100/hr labor rate.

 

Wrapping a stainless pipe would eventually cause it to rust, let alone a mild steel one.

Would you install the pipe or would you have it installed at Volvo? If you are paying to install it, get a good pipe that you won't have to pay somebody to replace. IPD, Ferrita, Elevate, whatever.

If you can install it yourself, then it might be worth the risk of saving a bit of money, because if anything doesn't work or it doesn't fit well (not unlikely with OBX) you won't be paying a nearly $100/hr labor rate.

DO NOT wrap any exhaust part it will only shorten the lifespan of said part.

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Would dipping/spraying it with say Krylon High Heat help with protecting/preventing rust a little vs. no coatings at all? Or are they just as bad as wrapping?

 

Here is a link to all the OBX/max exhaust/pipes: http://getmycaranexhaust.com/Volvo-S60-AWD-Exhaust

My good friend is a master tech at Volvo so the labor will likely be very little....

 

FYI - I live ina state that does not do inspections. And global warming makes my summers longer, so I am fine without having a cat. on my car.

Catalytic converters are designed to reduce all three:
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a poisonous gas that is colorless and odorless.
Hydrocarbons or volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are a major component of smog produced mostly from evaporated, unburned .fuel.
Nitrogen oxides (NO and NO2, together called NOx) are a contributor to smog and acid rain, which also causes irritation to human mucus membranes.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter1.htm

Cats don't reduce green house gas emissions, parking your car does. Thanks for irritating my mucus membranes

Anyways, if you doing your downpipe/exhaust go SS.

 

stainless steel, it isnt that much more expensive, and it will look better and hold up longer

 

DO NOT wrap any exhaust part it will only shorten the lifespan of said part.


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If you choose to go that route I would do 1200+ degree krylon and is still do a SS downpipe. I feel like that would be fine for the catback, but the dp in my opinion might retain too much heat and that heat can transfer to the turbocharger. Just my .02c

 

I'm not a believer in high temp exhaust paint. Ceramic coating would be the best protection for the outside of the pipe. The inside will still oxidize from moisture, acid, etc. Just get the obx "stainless" dp and drive it. It should last longer than your car. If not, replace it with another new one. They cost less than 1 tire. Most stainless exhaust these days is made from 309L which does show oxidation earlier than 321 but waaaaaay cheaper.

 

Wrapping the turbo and DP can be helpful to get the gasses hotter and give them more energy, but since the K24 housing is prone to cracking already, idk if it's such a good idea. Anybody here have a turbo wrap?

 

I ordered the mild steel downpipe. I plan to wrap it in the titanium wrap before I install. I will report back.

 

Wrap it and watch how fast it rots


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Thats the plan! I am in the midwest, so we do not get loads of wet weather/snow.
I have learned that most of the wraps causing failure stories are very exaggerated. That down pipe will always be hotter than 700 degrees if not double of that. Maybe, just maybe the wrap will harden the steel similar to how a welder would anneal metal.

 

Report back after a year and let me know!


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So this is what I do not get. You have a poll, and 17-1 chose the stainless over the mild but yet you still chose the mild steel? :facepalm:

 

No one had said they tried it, just opinions. Which I do value, but I also value real life experiences. Consider me taking the risk. It's a beta test. The wrap part... Well we should place bets. I am more concerned of cracking or warping something more that rust.

 

Considering I blew off my stainless Dp welds wonder how mild would end up....lol

 

Cmpd_r - What DP brand did you have that failed?

 

Obx stainless

 

I'm going with 364 days within instal and wrapped before it rots a hole through.


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Obx stainless is already cheap as it is ....mild steel will rot out man

 

i was just in your boat man, and the obx stainless pipes are hard to find right now. for the love of cars, don't do it man. its not just exterior water and salt that will attack the mild steel, think about the condensation on the interior of the exhaust as well. that pipe is going to rot from all sides, at all times.

 

For the love of all things cheap, I know a lot. A used OBX would have been about the same as what you got but you have to be patient and watch for it. I got mine for $150 shipped. I then built a custom exhaust to go behind it, sounds phenomenal btw. So I'm into a full turbo back stainless exhaust for around $400. However I'm glad someone is trying out the mild steel down pipe hope it goes well. As far as this car is to nice for those parts, who cares it's not a part that is going to harm or damage the car so roll with it. There's a good chance your down pipe will dry your wrap long before it can rust your pipe further. Not to mention I'm not sure what the point of an exhaust having a show quality look under the car is. Most of these owners won't keep the car long enough to benefit from the longevity of stainless. Kudo's to you for not being a sheep and following the same advice of buying an extremely over priced DP.

Hey Connor when did that OBX DP blow out that's crazy. Wouldn't that be the first real blow to the OBX quality argument. What are you running now?

 

So I did some research... maximizer hp is not a division of obx exhaust... This company is actually call advanced manufacturing group usa. They have been around for about two years. The downpipe is actually made of aluminized steel. Not sure that the same as mild steel, I think there is a dip or coating on it. Life expectancy is 4 to 6 years only.

 

I was wrong. It's 100% obx.

 

In either case, I don't understand making a thread asking which one to buy, if you had already made up your mind. Everyone told you to get the stainless, but you got the cheaper one anyway. I'm not sure if "buy nice or buy twice" applies to OBX, but the stainless will last a hell of a lot longer than that crap.

 

The wear on exhaust around here is greatly exaggerated. The exhaust that was taken off my V70R was aluminized steel. It was 10 years old and holding up just fine. Only the muffler was showing signs that it was going to go soon and only in the area where moisture would have settled. It may be different in areas that salt but that isn't done in my state and good chance if he's midwest isn't done in his either. Most car exhaust is aluminized steel and lasts quite sometime, at least in my part of the country. 365 days failure estimate? Really do we have to be that ridiculous? My prediction - in five years this guy will have a slightly uglier DP hiding under his car where no one can see it.

 

None the less, this has created some good conversation - HA! I am not sure how hot our turbos normally get, but most aluminized steel can keep its coating to around 1500 ish. I lost my site that I found that explained the diff types of metals and there facts. This is all you get: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminized_steel

OBX included a warranty - for what its worth. If it lasts two years great, replace for free or get the stainless. Not the end of the world. My pal is a master tech at my local Volvo franchise. I will have it installed at the next oil change. Give me a couple of weeks. And we can start the ticker to see how long it lasts. I would like to install a boost gauge prior to making any mod....