[Vesnic]

In one of op original photo, there is a non standard hoseclamp on the egr cooler, =2 things, one that it has been apart for some reason, and two they normally use what we call a necklace clamp, you can buy screw versions of these clamps,but this appears to be a ordinary hose clamp .
In regards doing your car, as other posters have said, there are many options, it boils down to what you want to spend, my c30 was a dog, but with help from people on this forum,and a lot of patience, i now have a super economical car,and really enjoy it.

Should I be concerned in regards to this clamp or would it be a good idea to take the egr out and inspect the part?

 

[Vesnic]

My V50 is also 2008 and DPF was clogged when I bought it. If it had clogged DPF the car puts itself to limp mode so max rev is 2900 and turbo waste-gate is open so no power at all. It should also give common error codes (so you can easy see with very cheap Bluetooth obd scanner).

Exactly, I was was driving the car on a highway just a week before the oil started leaking and the RPM suddenly became limited, also the acceleration was extremely slow. Dad was driving behind and noticed a puff of black smoke from behind my car. I figured later this had to be a dpf cleaning itself so I think the dpf is okay now.

 

[Vesnic]

I'd do a leakdown test rather than a compression test to check if the cylinders are sealing. I'd also recommend again a smoke test on the PCV system.

I think it's quite possible that once you resolve the excess crankcase pressure issue, many if not all of the leaking seals will stop leaking, or at least the leaks will slow considerably. You may still have to replace some, but you won't know until you deal with the pressure problem.

I googled the leak down test. Turns out I thought it was the same as compression test. Thanks for pointing it out and yes I agree, the compression test will not tell me how much air is escaping the cylinder.

 

[G10]

The thing with the clamp is, that someone for whatever reason has had the egr off,so there must have been some issue? Maybe.If the clamp is not the proper type,then obviously it wont seal.
You mentioned you will be taking it to your mechanic, so it depends on what equipment he has in regarding what tests they do.My suggestions (and its only a suggestion) was due to what is the cheaper option if you want to do it yourself.In doing some of the other tests you have to take out the glow plugs,snap one of these babys and you wont be happy.As o2pilot said, maybe the smoke test is the best ,safest option.
Please let us know how you get on.

 

[Vesnic]

Thank you for suggestions. Since I have made a deal with the dealer of the car (he is prepared to pay half the repair costs) I will be taking it to the mechanic next Monday to check what is wrong with the engine. For this reason also I will not be doing anything to my car now, not even cleaning it so the mechanic could see for himself. I will post an update when we find out something.

Also, how could a smoke test tell me if the pcv is clogged? Isnt the smoke test just for finding out any leaks?

 

[G10]

Best to leave it up to your mechanic for diagnosis,and what method they will use, not much use offering too many suggestions to the mechanic,as they might get a little peeved. good to hear that the seller is compensating you somewhat.

 

[Vesnic]

Will post an update next week hopefully 🤞

 

[G10]

Update??

 

[Vesnic]

Hi, I have just received an update from an official Volvo mechanic shop which was supposed to clean the engine and thoroughly find all faults. They say that the main crankshaft pulley malfunctioned and the "hydraulic fluid" from the main crank pulley leaked out and caused a mess under the hood (splattering all around). I am not aware of what the hydraulic fluid of the crank pulley is, maybe they meant that the seal was leaking...🤷‍♂️ Anyways that is now fixed and the cost to repair main crank pulley is now just north of 200eur...

Also, they say that the oil on top and around injectors is completely normal as this is essential to lubricate (weird.....🤔). However, If you check the pictures it is evident that the no.2 injector is significantly more dirty than other injcetors, leading me to a conclusion that it is faulty somehow which they (mechanics) did not notice apparently.

I am no expert, however I am a mechaniccal engineer with a degree and have studied engines as well. I am pretty sure the oil all around the engine is no good and most definitely not normal as the mechanics say. I think they did not bother to fix the real cause of oil leakage. Another thing, the positive crank pressure as evident on the video posted previously (glove test) is worrysome and not yet fixed.

One thing also: I noticed that the engine mounts need to be replaced as the rubber is completely worn out and is torn at some places. My assumption is reinforced by the mechanic of previous owner of the car who says the mounts need to be replaced because the engine is too loud and also the liquid inside mounts leaked due to torn rubber. However Volvo mechanic says it is okay and there is no need to replace the mounts which I also doubt.

What do you think guys? Are my doubts righteous or they are telling the truth? Will post pictures of the repaired engine shortly.

 

[Vesnic]

Maybe they meant that the harmonic balancer failed?

 

[02Pilot]

If the diesel engines use a fluid-filled harmonic balancer, I could see that making a mess if it failed. I don't know that I'm convinced by the "oil on top and around injectors is completely normal as this is essential to lubricate" line. If it were me, I'd clean the entire engine bay as thoroughly as possible, then see if I could better determine the exact sources of oil leakage.

Did you ask the mechanic directly about the crankcase pressure? If so, what did they say?

It sounds to me like they looked until they found a failure (the harmonic balancer), fixed it, and assumed everything else was fine. But it's not.

 

[G10]

Oil around the the top near injectors is complete b/s as regards

Also, they say that the oil on top and around injectors is completely normal as this is essential to lubricate

Number 2 injector usually goes first (dont know why,) but that is just a case of replacing copper washer and seals which is easy enough to do .
Some vehicles had oil dampened engine mounts,which obviously if cracked would leave leaks,but not as extensive as your engine.

 

[G10]

Bit hard to take a picture,but basically there aint oil build up around injectors, also a picture of a manhein provent 200 oil catch can which stops all the blowby getting into turbo etc

 

[Vesnic]

I am thinking the same:

It sounds to me like they looked until they found a failure (the harmonic balancer), fixed it, and assumed everything else was fine. But it's not.

 

[Vesnic]

Bit hard to take a picture,but basically there aint oil build up around injectors, also a picture of a manhein provent 200 oil catch can which stops all the blowby getting into turbo etc View attachment 211190 View attachment 211191

Thanks for the images, I will show them today to the mechanic and see what they say. Also will ask about crankcase pressure directly, though I think they will not bother to fix that.

 

[02Pilot]

Thanks for the images, I will show them today to the mechanic and see what they say. Also will ask about crankcase pressure directly, though I think they will not bother to fix that.

Why would they not fix the pressure issue? It's clearly a problem. If they won't address it, find a better shop.

 

[Vesnic]

Hi, so just as I have thought - they say that allegedly the crankcase pressure is normal at engines that old xD. Also the oily engine is also normal at engines this old and with that many km and he said he could show me a lot of cars with similar oil leaks. He said that the likely culprits for oil leaks around injectors are valve cover seal or injectors seals leaking, however they think that the best thing would be to clean the engine and then see where the oil is comming from.

Regarding the engine excessive pressure: I asked him about that and he just laughed it of saying others have pressure too and that I will never find an engine with neutral or negative pressure. Also the lead mechanic said they would not reseal the engine even if I paid them because this is not being done for years at official dealers (yeah, they just change the oil and belts nowadays 😠).

Regarding the main crank pulley - yes it consists of 2 parts the outer and inner and they are joined by a rubber. Between inside is oil which helps dampen the torsional vibrations of the crankshaft. So the rubber was worn and it leaked oil making a mess under the hood. However this does not explain other leaks...

I cleaned the engine yesterday - the pump, around injectors etc. and I think it is clean enough so I will be able to see where the leaks are comming from.

What do you guys think? Is this a good next step or he is full of bs? What would you do?

 

[Vesnic]

Also he said that the PCV is most likely not faulty/clogged as he have never changed it in his career.

 

[02Pilot]

Regarding the engine excessive pressure: I asked him about that and he just laughed it of saying others have pressure too and that I will never find an engine with neutral or negative pressure.

This is utter nonsense. Internal combustion engines produce blowby, which creates pressure in the crankcase. Predictably, this causes sealing problems, so manufacturers have used one method or another to evacuate that pressure for as very long time; downdraft tubes, to simple vents to the intake, to PCV ball valves, to modern diaphragm-based systems. I mean, based on his statement, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system wouldn't even be fitted - if pressure is the norm, why have a system in place to actively remove it?

Find a better shop.

 

[G10]

Unbelievable what some shops say,his "career" must be very short.Now that your engine is clean, you can hopefully keep any eye on where your leaks are emanating from.also as stated earlier, -find another shop-, remember these motors are in ford,peugot and mazda, you may find a shop that still has a old school mechanic that is familiar with these engines, ie it may be a shop that works on peugots but your engine is the same,so they might be able to help you out.Worth a try.