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leaking oil T6

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7.5K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  Tsem  
#1 ·
Hi All,

I had to jumpstart one of my other cars recently. It was dark so i was using a flashlight and happened to shine it on the transmission. There is a pool of oil on the top of the trans case. There is also oil on the lower half of the valve cover. the bottom have of the big circle, and around the hose like connector next to it. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? There was some oil on the underside of the oilpan and turbo hoses as well last time i changed the oil.

Its a 2012 T6 6 cylinder.

(I accidentally posted this in the wrong forum earlier, sorry for the duplicaiton)
 
#2 ·
Hi All,

I had to jumpstart one of my other cars recently. It was dark so i was using a flashlight and happened to shine it on the transmission. There is a pool of oil on the top of the trans case. There is also oil on the lower half of the valve cover. the bottom have of the big circle, and around the hose like connector next to it. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? There was some oil on the underside of the oilpan and turbo hoses as well last time i changed the oil.

Its a 2012 T6 6 cylinder.

(I accidentally posted this in the wrong forum earlier, sorry for the duplicaiton)
There's a TSB for the T6 turbo oil inlet line leaking.
Along with the many threads about it, the search is your friend.

I highly advise pin-pointing the source of your leak first then go about addressing it.
 
#7 ·
I know it has been a while since I posted this. ( I got Pneumonia for a week, then i have been scrambling to catch up). I am dropping the car off at the local volvo shop tomorrow. I am usually pretty comfortable working on cars. The engine bay on the volvo is just too cramped for me, and i want a reliable diagnosis. I was told last year that my brake vacuum booster was leaking. Someone mentioned that they can leak, If thats the fix, then I will be fairly happy. There are a number of items I want fixed, so i have put aside about $3,000 Hopefully I wont come close to using it.

Issue i want addressed:
1. Oil Leak
2. Brake booster
3. weird steering issues
4. my seatbelt clip got crushed and now it sticks
5. Potential new struts and spring( i would install these)
 
#8 ·
I took it to the dealer yesterday and the service advisor went out to look at the car, he popped the hood and pretty quickly came to the conclusion the Brake booster pump was leaking. I already had the parts for it, which I dropped off with the car. Hopefully that's all that is causing the oil leak. If so, that gives me a significant amount of wiggle room with the other repairs.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Update 1.

The Brake booster was leaking, as was the turbo inlet, crush washer for the drain, and finally something with the breather. 500 dollars to fix.

My passenger side strut is leaking, so add 1k for strut replacement

my lower motor mount needs to be replaced 345


Also of note:
My axles have play (forgot to ask which ones)
The rack and pinion has play
my AC currently needs to be fixed.
The car shakes at 55-60.
 
#10 ·
Update 1.

The Brake booster was leaking, as was the turbo inlet, crush washer for the drain, and finally something with the breather. 500 dollars to fix.

My passenger side strut is leaking, so add 1k for strut replacement

my lower motor mount needs to be replaced 345

Also of note:
My axles have play (forgot to ask which ones)
The rack and pinion has play
my AC currently needs to be fixed.
That sounds like a lot of work. Are you planning on doing it all at the dealer?
What are the symptoms, if any, of the motor mount needing to be replaced?
 
#11 ·
The axles, and Rack and pinion definitely arent getting done at the dealer. I am not equiped to handle the motor mount at home.

I could possibly do the struts on my own, but id rather just pay them to handle it. My Dad who would help me had shoulder surgery recently, so id be on my own.

The technician found it, and it makes sense, the car has been louder lately, and ive felt some thumping from the driveline.


I am going to get them to diagnose the AC. depending on cost i may have them fix it.

I've always used volvo OEM parts on this car, but man this is testing my resolve.
 
#12 ·
Update:

Here is where things stand:

1. The axles are fine, i misheard the service guy

2. They found a used Rack and pinion that's volvo OEM and comes with some form of warranty, dropping the price by half for it installed

3. Currently, I am having them:
A. Fix the Oil inlet line
B. Fix the Break Vacuum Booster
C. Replace my front struts
D. Replace the rack and Pinion

I am going to ask for an all in cost today. I am using a 15% coupon on the strut install. (good for 100 bucks)

Depending on total cost I also want them to Diagnose my AC. Depending on whats wrong with it, i'm almost certainly doing that work myself. My dad has an AC evac machine.
 
#13 ·
Hopefully they give you a good quote. The advantage of getting it done at the dealer is the lifetime warranty on parts plus the loaner car.
Are they doing the motor mount as well? I might need one of those since I hear a thud at engine start but it can wait.
Keep us posted.
 
#15 ·
about 3150 including the motor mount. They mentioned they would try to trim another hundred off since im getting so much work done.

This doesnt include the AC.

I am really happy about the rack and pinion because the car has always driven wierd like something was loose. I am really hoping this fixes it.
 
#17 ·
The used rack and pinion IS covered under the lifetime warranty (sweet)

I also looked at the quote and noticed a few things. I talked to a new guy this morning, and after talking to the person ive been working with the quote is back down to about 2900
 
#19 ·
I still have a loan on it, that 3k isn't coming close to paying off. (long story, involving a trade in and a sketchy ford dealer)

I also Genuinely enjoy the car. Back in November I drove 11 cars to find something to replace it (along this line of though).
The Lexus GS350, Hyundai Genesis V8, WRX, KIA K900, Audi A4, and about 5 others, nothing really covered all my bases like the S60 does.
The Audi S4 was very nice, but I know for a fact i'd modify it into unreliability.

The current line of thinking is dump 3-4k in the car to get it as close to mechanically perfect as possible, and drive it until its paid off in about 2 years.
 
#21 ·
UPDATE:

They determined my AC wasnt working due to a clogged valve in the compressor.

So when i get my car back today it will have:

New Front struts
New Steering Rack and alignment
new motor mount
Fixed AC
Brake booster pump sealed (oil Leak)
Turbo Oil inlet sealed (oil leak)

So it should ride better, drive better and have working AC.