[The Driver]

Always gotta move em but yeah if the rail is the issue the stubby's are amazing. Get a used set off ebay or facebook, 1/3 of the cost and saves a ton of time. But yeah, I always jack up the motors, much easier to modulate, especially when doing the waterpump!

 

[Austin V70R]

I made a stubby T55 for that job. I pushed the bit out of the housing, cut it down and reinstalled it with sleeve retainer. It’s only good for the single purpose, but it’s worked well for years.

 

[lawdogg]

Prior to the HG job, the week before I realized I had a HG issue, I was doing a 3rd gear pull and all of a sudden the car stopped pulling (as if the bypass valve all of a sudden vented), and it threw ECM-6805 "Turbocharger (TC) control system boost pressure fault - Pressure too high".

After that happened, it always broke up when it got into boost. I thought it must either be a bad TCV or related to the bad HG, or both, so I got a new OE Pierburg from FCP and put it in when I was doing the HG just in case.

However ... now, when I put my foot down, my boost shoots way too high. I haven't pulled codes yet, but I've watched the needle hit 20psi and keep on trucking !! so I've immediately take my foot off the gas each time.

So - I'll probably swap the old TCV back in, and see what happens. But I'm also only seeing around -18inHg at idle whereas before the HG it was -20inHg. All my vac lines seem fine. Regardless, I will investigate some more and see what I can figure out ...

 

[Austin V70R]

But I'm also only seeing around -18inHg at idle whereas before the HG it was -20inHg. All my vac lines seem fine. Regardless, I will investigate some more and see what I can figure out ...

The boost and idle vacuum issues are likely unrelated. Look at your VVT Duty Cycle in VIDA while idling. I suspect you’ll see one of the cams commanding more DC than the other, which hopefully you can correct wirh an adjustment in the slots.

Work out the idle vacuum issue 1st and then take a log. 20psi of bloost isn’t a big deal unless your AFR isn’t appropriate

 

[lawdogg]

At idle checked out boost pressure and cam parameters. Forgot to look at VVT duty cycle.

Warm idle was a little under 1k RPM.

My IPD boost gauge was reading -16inHg, and VIDA was saying Boost pressure is 900hPa (= 27inHg = 13psi) ... but I don't know if that means like, measured pressure or actual boost target under load? So maybe the boost gauge is wrong... maybe not?

Cam adaptation is in spec on both.

 

[lawdogg]

Solved the boost problem - turns out the hose off the boost control solenoid to the wastegate wasn't sealing right. So I was basically running closed wastegate.

 

[bencrabtree27]

Didn't take pics of the timing belt going on, this not being my first rodeo (it's my second lolol) ... too bad VIDA's instructions are so stupid, because it's so simple. Just snug the gears in place on the cams, then spin them each clockwise one by one until the timing mark lines up for them both. Then put the belt on. VIDA mentions you shouldn't tighten the three slotted cam gear bolts until you've tensioned the belt but ... I didn't do that. I put them all right in the middle and it's fine.

Moving on to the acc belt ... turns out a pair of vice grips on a hex socket is a pretty good way to access the acc belt tensioner, since my 1/2" wrenches are too big to fit between the tensioner and the frame.

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Yay, back together. Only annoying issue was the overflow line from the coolant tank had a bad seal so that was leaking coolant until I put a clamp on it. Otherwise ... everything seems OK!

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And it passes the glove test with flying colors ...

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Since I had gotten a clutch position code, I swapped this out for a new one. Saving the super easy stuff for last!

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Put the summer pegs back on, and it's back on all fours. Woohoo! Just in time for a heat wave ... have been sweating it out in my '92 Stealth which does not have AC 🥵

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Ohwards! The Delrin subframe bushings and rear wheel bearings now have to wait for me to find a good time to dig back into this thing ... it never ends. 😂

When I was dealing with the tensioner and alternator wine I had a family friend cut the socket and weld onto a flat bar. Painted it and its so much nicer than messing around with no room and wrenches lol

 

[lawdogg]

Rear wheel bearings had started howling pretty loud. So chucked in some new SKF units.

Forgot to take many pics ... really easy job. As long as you have a slim closed-end 17mm wrench to get to the lower rear bolts (!)...

Only decent pic I took, I left that bolt in place since there isn't enough room to remove it. When the new bearing goes in, keep the bolt all the way sit down and thread it into the bearing slowly. That's the only way I could fit my wrench on it. Good times.

Not much rust or corrosion at all, everything came apart and went back together easy peasy.