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EvilWang

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just fixed up some dead LEDs in the instrument cluster, and have noticed the needle for the speedo and the temp are not right, I assumed that it would re calibrate it self...

Can this be done in VIDA or do I need to pull the cluster back out and attempt to realign the gauges manually?

Cheers
 
Sorry to jack, I have no idea, but how hard was the led replacement. Plug and play or surface mounts
 
needs to be done manually, GPS for Speedo, wait for the car to be warm and put the coolant needle exactly halfway, car idles at about 800rpm and gas wait til the low fuel light comes on that happens as soon as the needle touches the red.

Thats how I did my car with no issues.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks @Sparacis guess I know what I'll be doing today

@joelkennethsmith fairly easy, surface mounts, they're PLC4 white LEDs for the speedo tacho fuel and temp, 2 for the speedo 2 for the tacho 1 for the fuel and 1 for the temp
I just used some 3535 white 3v SMD I had, testing on the board wouldn't get them to light up (except the other coloured LEDs) so when that happens usually there is 1 (or more) that is dead. For me it was both my speedo and 1 in the tacho, although since I'm taking it back out I'm just going to replace the others I didn't last night.
Once I replaced the ****ed ones all the white ones will light up when you use one testing point (diode tester on multimeter)
It's leadfree solder, so used my very ****ty 0.5mm tip and lifted the old ones off the board with my ****ed up tweezer I modified to remove connector pins
I used (leaded) solder paste to put the new ones on the board for ease, with the iron as well
I'll post up some pictures later
 
Thanks @Sparacis guess I know what I'll be doing today

@joelkennethsmith fairly easy, surface mounts, they're PLC4 white LEDs for the speedo tacho fuel and temp, 2 for the speedo 2 for the tacho 1 for the fuel and 1 for the temp
I just used some 3535 white 3v SMD I had, testing on the board wouldn't get them to light up (except the other coloured LEDs) so when that happens usually there is 1 (or more) that is dead. For me it was both my speedo and 1 in the tacho, although since I'm taking it back out I'm just going to replace the others I didn't last night.
Once I replaced the ****ed ones all the white ones will light up when you use one testing point (diode tester on multimeter)
It's leadfree solder, so used my very ****ty 0.5mm tip and lifted the old ones off the board with my ****ed up tweezer I modified to remove connector pins
I used (leaded) solder paste to put the new ones on the board for ease, with the iron as well
I'll post up some pictures later
Awesome thanks. I have been wanting to do this but with blue conversion. You interested in doing a cluster for me $$$$$
 
Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
@muppetman342 thanks for that, I'll see if I can find that

@joelkennethsmith if I recall from a previous thread on here, they run about 2v, but mine are 3v so just don't run as bright, although a lot brighter than the stock ones anyway
You might want to check it, it's got a 122 smd (1200 ohm) resistor before each LED so if memory serves seems to be about right for a ~2.15v 10ma with 14v off the battery
Also, while I would, different countries...
edit: this might work, you'd need to check LTST-E680UBKT Lite-On Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Might be helpful to anyone else wanting to do this, when you're resetting the needles, turning them counter clockwise you'll feel it hit a bit of resistance, when you go clockwise and back you'll feel it "stop", that's it's "0" position, so you can roughly set it that way if you pull the temp and fuel you can go full circle with the speedo and tacho without pulling them out.
Need to check tonight when I can hit cruise with GPS, but my rough setting seems to be maybe 1-2km out at 40kph
 
@joelkennethsmith I did a write up about it here for anyone interested, It goes over not only the Instrument cluster but also the radio and waterfall. C30 Crew Forum
 
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