Beuller?.... Beuller?....

Guess this is a somewhat unique problem. Haven't been able to find much help online anywhere. Ah well. Guess I'll just go for the Vdash CEM crack, disable the MOST security, and see what happens. Will just have to get around to it when I can park it for a couple days while I undergo the lengthy cracking routine. Hopefully at some point this week.

 

First thing to do is to scan the car and figure out what fault codes (DTC) are reported.
You mentioned having a VIDA setup so use that.
In addition to that it would be good to list which fuse(s) were blowing.

Your current issues with ICM and AUD (amplifier) are not directly related to each other.
Without AUD there can be no sound as the system has no way to get a signal to any speaker. That means no radio, no handsfree / phone and no park assist sound(s).
With an inactive, as in connected but not powered, AUD the bus will be interrupted as no light is transmitted to modules installed behind the AUD. So none of their functions will be available.
However either not having an AUD installed or having an inactive AUD will not prevent the ICM from turning on.

In one other thread you wrote that your car had suffered from the leaky windshield issue and that puddles had formed in the front footwells.
The most likely reason for the corrosion on your AUD is this leak. Due to how the AUD is mounted and how the floorpan is made, water will saturate the entire carpet and sound deadening front to back on any one vehicle side, meaning the AUD was exposed to water until things dryed out.
That is bad for the AUD.
It is also bad for the vehicle wiring that is partially on those areas.

 

So, if the amp (AUD) is blown, as that interrupts the bus, does that keep the ICM from activating? I know the MOST circuit is like one big ring, but I'm still not entirely sure how this complicated thing functions. Vida diagrams have me even more confused. Haha. Some things talk to ICM via MOST, but some with CANBUS, and others with something else. Lol. Fuses that have blown in the past have been
Fuse FD1 - 16/46 HLDF, 10/108 MMM - 10 Amp;
Fuse FD5 - 16/105 AUD - 25 Amp;
Fuse FD6 - 3/281 ICM, 16/1 IAM, 4/124 AUU
Fuses FD1 & FD6 don't blow any more, they'd only do it occasionally, but FD5 still will if plugged in, but that one is clearly fried so fuse is definitely doing it's job. Won't plug that guy back in until it's fixed, but it WOULD be nice if I could at least get the screen functional again before attempting that repair or swapping it altogether.

And I think you're right about the prior water leak. Hasn't had that issue in many years, but I'm certain that's where the trouble began. What a dumb place for an amp for a Nordic car!!! And yeah, my car lived in an environment with a tremendous amount of snow. Car drove great, but sadly the electronics weren't equally up to the task. Esp with a flawed windshield seal.

Anyway, I ran the diagnostics yesterday, and here's what it saw. All of it exactly as expected. Vdash wasn't much help. At least with my free starter account. Seems I have to step it up to do the CEM crack and look at MOST settings? Hope I can get this thing figured out! The ol' girl's still got a lot of life left in her, but it's been annoying not being able to use like half the car's features. Haha.

One of the suggestions was to check this thing out. Is that where the CEM plugs in?!

And my bevy of codes. All exactly as I would've thought too.

 

Ah, NM. So I guess the breakout box is a tool for diagnosing connections and such. Super specialized dealer tool evidently. Sunnuva. After my last few experiences with my dealer, I have zero faith in their technical capabilities to resolve this issue without costing me thousands, so I'm trying REALLY hard not to have to rely on them. No good Swede shops around here either AFAIK. FML...

 

Sadly in these cases any number of things can be responsible for the issues. The fault codes can even be all wrong and indicate issues with something that is fine, but getting confused by something else.

You can try looking at the CEM. This may or may not be the reason.
Compared to P2 cars on P3 the CEM isn't as likely to fail.
From the DTC two things are obvious: Something is wrong and causing communication on the CAN bus.

Fault codes are stored for the highspeed CAN network as both BCM (brake control module) and DEM (differential control module, for the AWD) reported communication faults. Although this could be unrelated and simply have been the result of a temporary hiccup as the codes are only stored and not listed as current.
Current codes for communication issues are, at least on the screenshot you included, only listed for the medium speed CAN network. That is the only CAN network the ICM is directly connected to.
Curiously there is also a communication fault for the HLDF (navigation screen). It's also connected to the medium speed network but not dependent on the ICM for communication. It doesn't work without the ICM in operational condition to send data to the MMM (navigation control module) but should still communicate back with the CEM.

Does the AUD fuse FD5 blow if the power connector is not plugged in? It really should not.

Can you provide a complete list of all fault codes. A good thing would be to reset all fault codes, go for a short drive and fiddle with all the controls, than perform another scan.
That way it can be determined which faults are returning and how intermittent some of the stored faults are.

Can't directly swap in another ICM. Ignore whatever the dealership says, an used ICM can be made to work.
#1 Install other ICM
#2 Scan car and see if module is communicating
#3 If yes, go to dealership
#4 Instruct dealership to load software P/N #30786292 (ITP remove)
#5 Instruct dealership to load software P/N #30775615 (ICM reload)

Software has to be loaded in that order, otherwise it will not install. Step 5 is sort of optional as the replacement ICM can be directly compatible out of the box. There is an equal chance the software on it is outdated OR newer than what your car expects.

 

Dude. You are a wellspring of information. Thank you SOOOOO much. Even if it's not resolved yet, I finally feel like I at least have some direction. Yeah. I don't mind using the dealer if I can clearly direct them to load the software as per your instructions. Perhaps I can also do that myself with VIDA 2015 and the 3-day license, right?

The AUD fuse does not blow when the amp's not plugged in, so I believe that is what was causing all of that. Since unplugging the amp, nothing's blown. Nothing's worked either, but no popped fuses. Haha.

I think my next course of action will be to pull the CEM and investigate since SO many things are acting squirrely. Once that's pulled, cleaned, re-installed, if nothing's communicating, guess I'll install a different ICM, rescan, and see if anything's talking.

One of the reasons I haven't spent the $$$ on it is because it's an old '08 with over 200K, so costs at dealer would likely far exceed what vehicle's even worth after it's all said and done. However, I have REFUSED to give up on at least attempting to figure it out since the car drives so beautifully. Interior's gorgeous and the car's just such a sturdy, well-built chariot, electronics aside. So thank you for helping me out on this!

 

Caution
It is possible to load software at home by using the 3 day VIDA subscription.
For this a genuine DiCE unit is required. Or one that does not show itself to be a clone of a genuine DiCE unit. Which yours will do unless it has been further modified.

Consider doing the DTC reset, drive around, scan before anything else. Knowing what is throwing up faults and going from there will be important.

While at the dealership might as well request they install low beam 2 application.
That is P/N #31254147
Enables headlights to turn off in switch position off.

Don't underestimate how tacos and margaritas might impact your budget

 

Caution
It is possible to load software at home by using the 3 day VIDA subscription.
For this a genuine DiCE unit is required. Or one that does not show itself to be a clone of a genuine DiCE unit. Which yours will do unless it has been further modified.

Thankfully I have a legit, real deal Volvo DiCE unit. Got it from one our members here. Works great! Been enjoying the bluetooth functionality.

Consider doing the DTC reset, drive around, scan before anything else. Knowing what is throwing up faults and going from there will be important.

Will do! Easiest thing to do first, so will definitely do that.

While at the dealership might as well request they install low beam 2 application.
That is P/N #31254147
Enables headlights to turn off in switch position off.

Nice! Was wondering how to do that. Hoonk suggested I change that settting, but couldn't figure it out since it was greyed out. At least in 2014D. Probably need to use the legit VIDA with the temp license to accomplish this. Maybe I'll put together a list of all the things I want to accomplish on both my cars and get my money's worth out of the 3-day sub.

Don't underestimate how tacos and margaritas might impact your budget

Hahaha. Worth it. Still waaaaaaaaaaay cheaper than my dealer. Even if you did manage to blow through hundreds of dollars in margs and tacos.

 

I have the same error codes, the language change was interrupted and the icm is now dark.
Was this completed and how??

 

Which fault codes do you have exactly?
From the one line description you have given the circumstances of why the ICM stopped working are different from the intital case in this thread. Improperly or incompletely installed software will prevent the ICM from working. Depending on how wrong things went it might set a specific DTC to indicate software issues. It might also just stop working entirely.

For P3 vehicles the expected fault codes for software issues are:

ICM-U030000
Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility. General Failure.

ICM-U030051
Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility. System Programming Failures. Not Programmed.

Existing but not used:

ICM-U300055
Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility. Configuration Failure.

If U030000 or U030051 are set another programming attempt could be made to try and install the software.
Otherwise it might be easiest to just replace the module with a known good one and reprogram that.



If this is about a P2 platform XC90 the expected fault code is:

ICM-1D03
Control module not fully programmed. Internal fault.

 

CEM-U015600
DIM-U1A2500
DIM-U210000
CCM-U015600
Changing the language didn't work perfectly and now icm is dark and these codes. I can try to run the original program on the unit, but if that doesn't help, what next..
The same codes are in the picture above.

 

[...]
Changing the language didn't work perfectly and now icm is dark and these codes. I can try to run the original program on the unit, but if that doesn't help, what next..
[...]

[...]
Otherwise it might be easiest to just replace the module with a known good one and reprogram that.
[...]

There are no DTCs set by the ICM which means it does not communicate with the rest of the network.
The DTCs set by the other modules confirm this lack of communication. That also means the ICM can not have software loaded in this state.

 

The ICM unit is now only red in the system. If I have to send the unit for reprogramming, can the car be used without the ICM unit?

 

Yup. Car works just fine without it. You just won't have a display or radio (obviously). Won't keep you from driving it or anything, though.

 

ICM is alive again. ICM software reload fixed everything.

 

You lucky dog!!! Mine's still totally broken. Haha. I just haven't spent enough time on it since I got so busy with other, more critical projects.

 

I forgot to respond to this, but I was able to solve my issue! It required a 3-day subscription to VIDA, and a Volvo approved USB (it has some type of hidden key on it). Once I had the usb, I was able to do a reload of the ICM with ease (it’s required for this reload).

 

I do this with vdash + dice.

 

You're giving me hope. My amp is completely smoked, so I need to get that repaired or replaced before attempting much more. I have some visibly blown components in it. I'm guessing from water damage. What a stupid place for an amplifier!!! You would have thought the Swedes would have thought about melting snow not being very compatible with exposed electronics. Haha.

Poor thing didn't stand a chance.Years of living in the mountains was probably hard enough on it, but it probably also didn't help when my pregnant wife's water broke on the passenger seat on our way into town. 😬

I haven't had a radio in this car for years. One of these days I'll reattempt to revive it.

 

I think If you change the used amp you must also unlock MOST before downloading the software again.

 

Indeed. At least that's my understanding. Would be nice if I can revive my existing one. I've opened it up and it's actually a fairly simple amplifier all things considered. The blown parts would definitely be replaceable with some soldering. Hopefully that's all it is, and with a software upload, I can get my ICM going again.

 

Let's hope it comes back to life.

 

Thanks! Fingers crossed. Unfortunately, with my S60 still sitting completely broken in my garage (it's ok, I bought it that way) and a couple more things to iron out in my C30, the radio has moved down on my list of priorities.

 

My Volvo S60 T5 2012 ICM system is black will only display the sensors diagram when in reverse and occasionally when driving. These sensor diagrams are none responsive, the radio is dead, backup camera, front and rear all stopped working . I went to the dealership and they recommended a faulty ICM and required replacement and i could not get the same pdt number to replace the original. Purchased a 3rd party aftermarket android ICM and it connected and functions without sound. What are the possible solutions available. Mike