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How to access the lower engine compartment fuses

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76K views 30 replies 23 participants last post by  ironmike  
#1 ·
Hello,
I have a 2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 L FWD with 44k miles. I am trying to figure out how to access the lower engine compartment fuse box. My heater blower stopped working and before I take it to the mechanic I was hoping to inspect the fuse for it first. The specific fuse is #11, which is located in the lower engine compartment of the fuse box (listed as C in the online diagrams). I have not been able to find any answers to this question in other similar threads, nor any videos online. I also bought the Haynes manual and that was no help. Anyone know how to get to it? Thanks very much! Below is a link of the fuse box diagram.

http://car-fuse.blogspot.com/2014/02/2013-Volvo-C60.html
 
#2 ·
• Fuses 1 - 15, 34 and 42 - 44 are relays/circuit breakers and should only be removed or replaced by a trained and qualified Volvo service technician.
Not straightforward. Gonna have to remove bits of the fuse box.

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#4 · (Edited)
Remove the black 10mm nut and then locate and push the 3 tabs, 1 grey on inboard side, 1 grey up front in center of top layer, and a black one on the outer box back wall. Lift the box using needle nose pliers to grab here and there around box to slide it up. It will move a little in the first lift around and then it usually slides up. The wire entry grommets on front side outboard may need to be slid upwards.
The fuses in bottom row are now visible.
I do not disconnect battery but I use a lot of care so no wrenches bridge power leads to ground. do this at your own risk. Arcing wires are known to state of California to cause fire.
Screwdrivers point to tabs in photos. I don't need no stinkin' MS Word.
1st pic is the lower fuses
2nd pic is the upper box slipped up off stud and out of its "hole"
3rd are the grey tabs
4th is that black tab that is part of the back wall of fuse box enclosure

The front center grey tab is the hardest to find but a small blade screwdriver inserted and left down in there to keep the tab that latches it pushed aside is how I do it.
 

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#5 ·
Remove the black 10mm nut and then locate and push the 3 tabs, 1 grey on inboard side, 1 grey up front in center of top layer, and a black one on the outer box back wall. Lift the box using needle nose pliers to grab here and there around box to slide it up. It will move a little in the first lift around and then it usually slides up. The wire entry grommets on front side outboard may need to be slid upwards.
The fuses in bottom row are now visible.
I do not disconnect battery but I use a lot of care so no wrenches bridge power leads to ground. do this at your own risk. Arcing wires are known to state of California to cause fire.

The front center grey tab is the hardest to find but a small blade screwdriver inserted and left down in there to keep the tab that latches it pushed aside is how I do it.
Just wanted to say thankyou for you post. I want to disconect fuse 8 and was having a bad time getting the top fuse tray off.

Cheers.
 
#6 ·
You are welcome. Volvo did some sneaky fuse/relay box engineering starting with the P2 models and I had to figure it out to work on cars in my shop.
 
#16 ·
@cattlecar: Thanks for the instructions / pictures!

The blower fan is not coming on. So, I am trying to figure out the problem.

I got the A tray out to access C tray. I dropped the 40 amp fuse when I tried to get it out :-(. So, I had to get the B tray out to get to the fuse. I couldn't put the B tray back sliding down two notches (rear-side) and single notch on the left side. I could get it to slide down the two notches (rear-side) only. Not enough slack. I was afraid of breaking some wires. SO left it like that. Is there any knack to this ?

All this to check a fuse which happened to be good. Now I have to check the resistor and blower... If I missed anything else please let me know.
 
#19 ·
Bumping this, need to pull the headlight washer fuse from my '13 soon.

@cattlecar, which side of the junction is "hot" when you remove the black nut? May just disconnect the battery to be safe, but know you said you usually don't. Just curious what to watch for if not.

Thanks!
Joe
 
#21 ·
I'll be doing this soon on my V60 to replace windshield heater fuse. I plan to disconnect the battery. No reason not to take the precaution IMO.
That's a good idea!
But if you plan on testing fuses while your in there, your gonna have to leave the battery plugged in.
 
#27 ·
Just a few more pics of the process getting to this ridiculously located fuse box. As a side note, even after the clips were unlatched, had to really rock it back and forth and slowly pry it up.
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#28 ·
As an aside, I was accessing the lower fuse box to check the HVAC blower motor fuse since the blower stopped working. The fuse was, of course, still good. Replaced the blower motor resistor today...working so far.
 
#29 ·
Had to open this up today to check for fuse #11 for the blower, broke a tab here and there but still works. It's all good so must be the fan itself, what a B&TC* to pull out.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their pictures I would've had to take it somewhere to check it if I didn't see these posts by everyone. Happy new year 2024 everyone !