Found this, which I am going to follow myself for some work I plan on doing in the future

 

Removing the entire door? It's actually really simple, just there are 2 bolts (one on each hinge) and if I remember correctly a T50 on the bar that prevents the door opening too far. You'll want a second pair of hands and I found a jack with a rag on top also helped when putting the door back on.

Alignment was simple, just set the door back on.

 

Yep, removing the door will make the inspection and repair much easier. The door panel video doesn't help at all. It's as easy as abcdefghii said, except it's a T40.

 

Yep, removing the door will make the inspection and repair much easier. The door panel video doesn't help at all. It's as easy as abcdefghii said, except it's a T45.

Not really descriptive, and the guy's speaking Russian. But it does show how the doors sit on the frame.

 

Thank you all...that was very informative and gave me some confidence in attacking the problem. NEXT...addressing what I find! Is there a cable (harness) for the interior of the door that, if it needs to be replaced, I can 'plug and play'?

 

It's usually just a broken wire or two. I just repair them and put it back together.

 

I believe to actually remove the door, this piece (had to google as I don't have my car ATM) needs to come off, too. The image is a stock picture from an S40 (not an S60) You'll have to ask @Tech how that piece (not identical to this one of course) comes out. Never removed it myself.

P3 S60 Door

Stock Image from an S40. Can't find a closeup of that piece anywhere so for illustrative purposes you get my point.

 

That's the connector. The top slides up to disconnect it. There's two small tabs on the bottom that you'll need to push in slightly while prying the top part up to disengage the connector.

 

is it 'normal' for the wiring harness in the door to be wet?

 

The rubber boot? Or the wiring inside?

 

I've spliced in new wiring in doors before. Mostly on old 200 and 900 series Volvos, but the principal is the same. Not that technical once you identify the break.

If you really want to remove the door solo, without damage, Steck makes a product called the EZ Door Hanger that mounts to a floor jack and supports the door, leaving your hands free to work. I was swapping several doors from a parts car to a daily driver, and I bought one. Totally worth the cost to not mar the door.

 

"21870 E-Z Rest Door Hanger - Steck Manufacturing" 21870 E-Z Rest Door Hanger - Steck Manufacturing

 

Of course, the next question is....do I slice open the cable cover between the door and car to reveal any issues? Lets say that I find a break in the wire in that coupling....If so, how do I mend the rubber cover when I put it back together? Seems that electrical tape would not offer me the weather protection I need.

 

Pull the flexible rubber cover back from either the grommet at the door or the body. If the harness has a cover, open it carefully with a utility knife. Make the repair, then reseal with tape or heat shrink tubing. That is how I've done it. Tech may have a better method.

 

You should be able to slide the rubber boot back, so you'll have the end with the connector that was attached to the door, and on the other end a rubber piece that goes into the car, pop that piece off the car body and with the boot then able to be straightened out somewhat, you can slide the rubber back some to inspect the wiring.

 

Slide it back as a first trial.

However, I have cut into many boots over the years, mended them back with impermeable tape, and have never had any issues with any water ingress.

 

Yeah you can pop it off the connector, pull it out of the body a little and then slide it back.

 

. I found this.