The modification list is missing upgraded anti-sway bars. :thumbup: They make HUGE difference!

Installing the front one requires dropping the front sub-frame, but is otherwise pretty straight forward. I used an engine crane rather than engine lift bar that stretches across the strut towers.

Installing the rear one is a bit of a twisty puzzle, but completed by a do-it-yourselfer with car on jack stands.

Doing both was a weekend project.

 

Good call thanks.

 

[*]Trim piece around rear hatch light that broke a little on a spectacular bump (thanks to 84 in Waterbury).

I live in Southbury and feel your pain... I commute to New Britain daily for work and 84 (specifically in Waterbury) has done nothing but mess up my baby! BTW huge ups on the miles, I just hit 172k myself and plan on keeping the R for life!

 

The VR is the only car other than an E63 AMG Estate (or RS6 but we don't get that here) that is so versatile... And it's way cheaper than an E-Wagon. Which is why I too am keeping it forever.

Thankfully my commute is 202 in Torrington to 44 in West Hartford... Not a lot of CT highway "fun".

 

Making progress on the list! Poly Upper engine mount bushings on the way, have a lead on a subwoofer, and a center console.

I might buy a set of used track spec sways off eBay (idk if that's a good idea) they are really cheap...

Now it's just subframe bushings and finding a snabb short shifter... Or I'll swap the cables to the 05+ and go TWM.

Struts are not leaking and I don't see a need to do them at the moment (also they aren't in stock anywhere cheap).

Finally, I finally discovered the source of my rattle--it's the exhaust, or an excuse to get an iPd exhaust.

 

Making progress on the list! Poly Upper engine mount bushings on the way, have a lead on a subwoofer, and a center console.

I might buy a set of used track spec sways off eBay (idk if that's a good idea) they are really cheap...

Now it's just subframe bushings and finding a snabb short shifter... Or I'll swap the cables to the 05+ and go TWM.

Struts are not leaking and I don't see a need to do them at the moment (also they aren't in stock anywhere cheap).

Finally, I finally discovered the source of my rattle--it's the exhaust, or an excuse to get an iPd exhaust.

I love my iPD oval! The sound is SOOOO nice! Should give Ben McNally or Nick a shout, they can get Snabb goodies at amazing prices and Ben does his installs etc. out of Watertown which for us, is gray having him so local. Do you have their contact info? LMK I will PM. I have a set of Delrin SF bushings sitting on my desk waiting to go in .

 

Sway bars will pretty much last the lifetime of a car, so if the price is right on the used set I say go for it.

 

Looks good Hounddogger! Only 2 weeks into my ownership here. Where did you get ViDA? I've been looking into it but am wary of the software not working correctly.

 

I bought the one on eBay that had been purchased the most... Hilton tuning has a suggested one as well. The only VIDA install issue I had was related to how much RAM it thought I had so I was forced to edit a config file so the installer would run.

 

Thanks Hounddogger. I can barely post in the forums much less edit a config file. Might have to mooch off someone local

 

Took 2 seconds and I found the directions on Swedespeed. As long as you are running a 64 bit OS you shouldn't have a problem, my issue was I was using 32 bit Win7 (I think)...

 

Car updated, realigned, and a poly upper torque mount installed. I have the smaller upper mount but it appears to require a vice/press to get out of the strut bar. Vibration isn't terrible--except at idle with the AC on. Good thing I only have poly strut bar inserts as a truly solid strut bar mount would make the poly torque mount suck. Also re-thinking my plan to replace the rear suspension rubber with poly... Maybe I'll just go OEM. However, the front is going poly front position/XC70 for rear position.

 

Vibration isn't terrible--except at idle with the AC on.

You probably already did this, but in case you didn't, loosen the bolt through the poly bushing while the caR is running in Neutral and then retorque it. Torquing the bolt with the caR in Neutral can help reduce vibration in that gear position.

 

Could the rubber in your strut bar mounts be worn out? You said you were glad you didn't have solid strut bar conversion mounts, does that mean they are still original?

And thanks for PM!

 

Possibly. I just put a poly insert kit into it.

 

New battery after the old one tested at 480A/800A. Volvo wanted $450 for just the battery... Wal-Mart wanted $125

 

You can by the whole mount with bracket from FCP or ipd. You can get the updated square mount which is better than the round one. As far as poly goes, been there done that. It's not for me. If you have a nice suspension and replace your worn rubber mounts with new ones, the car will feel about as solid as it does with poly mounts but much much less vibration. You don't have to buy OEM. You can buy Hutchinson and/or Lemforder. They make the OEM mounts for Volvo so it's just as good at half the price.

 

Yeah, I have been slowly replacing all of the suspension components. However, I wanted a poly torque mount for the stiffness, and honestly the vibration isn't that bad. I don't think I'll replace anything else with poly aside from the front position LCA bushings when I need new LCAs. I will probably end up swapping out my poly insert/washer mod strut bar mounts with either 100% solid or go back to OEM rubber. The best thing is that torque mounts are cheap and easy to change, so I can experiment...

 

And here's my updated long term upgrade sheet, feel free to add suggestions.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18Lqs5E40hctVIpVmuBQTA0ZSp-T1NXgzNNLazKHihWY/edit?usp=sharing

 

YouRs is an 04, so if you haven't already, I would upgrade your power steering fluid reservoir (and pressure hose) to the 2005+ style when you replace your fluid.

 

Good call. Although didn't Volvo update the '04 resivoir to no longer be junk?

 

Well at 289,400 miles the ETM gave up the ghost. Not terrible to replace it. Just pull the OTE pipe, airbox/intake, cooling fan, and throttle pipe. Takes an hour. Realized I finally have to go replace the strut mount, was hoping the strut would fail first so I could do it all at once...

 

I predict it'll be about 40 weeks until 300,000, and 2 years before I see 333,333

 

Man I really like the looks of the silver wagon. So killer! I have the grey.

 

Plugs and a new ETM gasket. And I'm about to crest 292k... Also discovered how to get at the ETM without pulling the airbox just pull the tube from the intake to the airbox, rotate the fan 180* and pull it out. It is also now time for a PCV service... there's some oil on the valve cover.

 

Replaced the angle gear after the pinion bearing self destructed... Also, 295k miles...

 

A fellow member of the gear carnage club, lol.

 

I'd be lying if I said this was the worst I have seen... An XC we bought had an angle gear that escaped the case...

 

So is the new one in yet??

 

Yes it is. New collar will be going in when I have time/order driveshaft bolts/buy a new driveshaft because at some point it will need replacement.

 

Roof bars in December and a subwoofer yesterday:
My headliner now vibrates if I turn the bass up... But oh man music sounds great.

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks!

 

Also passed 296k last week... I really need to stop forgetting my thread exists... Also that maintenance is spelled wrong...

 

How'd you score the sub?? I'm trying to get my hands on one myself.

 

I made an offer to a guy selling his car for the subwoofer... He accepted.