[Hounddogger]

Hello all,

Given I have owned my VR for almost a year and done some stuff to it I figured it was time to make a thread. My R has currently has 285,000 miles and I purchased it with about 278k. It wasn't driven very much in fall/winter because A) I was terrible at driving it, and B) It had Conti DW summer tires that I didn't feel like replacing because I didn't drive it.

Since April it has been my DD to school and wherever and it finally has some new shoes.

So, in chronological order here is what I have done:

October 2014: Purchased it and a VIDA.
April 2015: Rear struts and a mirror.
June 2015: Poly transmission mount (what a world of difference), poly strut mount inserts that probably do nothing. Conti DWS06 and an alignment.

Future plans:

1. DMF/Clutch (on the fence about it) in (hopefully) 15k miles, maybe I'll just do it this summer because I have nothing better to do, DMF and clutch are original I think because I have maintenance records from mile 0.
2. Do88 drop-in intercooler. (maybe)
3. Front 4C struts/Poly LCA bushings.
4. iPd Swaybars (maybe)
5. Trim piece around rear hatch light that broke a little on a spectacular bump (thanks to 84 in Waterbury).
6. Low profile wiper arms.
7. Delrin subframe bushings (likely will do when clutch is done)
8. Short shifter. (have to try one first)
9. 2005+ center console,

And here are some pictures:

Snow... Pro tip: summer tires suck in winter...

Met a friend at school.

Interior still looks nice...

New shoes for the R

And let me just say that with new rear struts and DWS06 tires the R rides like a cross country compared to the DW's on it before.

 

[qwkbrk]

The modification list is missing upgraded anti-sway bars. :thumbup: They make HUGE difference!

Installing the front one requires dropping the front sub-frame, but is otherwise pretty straight forward. I used an engine crane rather than engine lift bar that stretches across the strut towers.

Installing the rear one is a bit of a twisty puzzle, but completed by a do-it-yourselfer with car on jack stands.

Doing both was a weekend project.

 

[Hounddogger]

Good call thanks.

 

[bgrove]

[*]Trim piece around rear hatch light that broke a little on a spectacular bump (thanks to 84 in Waterbury).

I live in Southbury and feel your pain... I commute to New Britain daily for work and 84 (specifically in Waterbury) has done nothing but mess up my baby! BTW huge ups on the miles, I just hit 172k myself and plan on keeping the R for life!

 

[Hounddogger]

I live in Southbury and feel your pain... I commute to New Britain daily for work and 84 (specifically in Waterbury) has done nothing but mess up my baby! BTW huge ups on the miles, I just hit 172k myself and plan on keeping the R for life!

The VR is the only car other than an E63 AMG Estate (or RS6 but we don't get that here) that is so versatile... And it's way cheaper than an E-Wagon. Which is why I too am keeping it forever.

Thankfully my commute is 202 in Torrington to 44 in West Hartford... Not a lot of CT highway "fun".

 

[Hounddogger]

Making progress on the list! Poly Upper engine mount bushings on the way, have a lead on a subwoofer, and a center console.

I might buy a set of used track spec sways off eBay (idk if that's a good idea) they are really cheap...

Now it's just subframe bushings and finding a snabb short shifter... Or I'll swap the cables to the 05+ and go TWM.

Struts are not leaking and I don't see a need to do them at the moment (also they aren't in stock anywhere cheap).

Finally, I finally discovered the source of my rattle--it's the exhaust, or an excuse to get an iPd exhaust.

 

[StealthyS60R]

Sway bars will pretty much last the lifetime of a car, so if the price is right on the used set I say go for it.

 

[bgrove]

Making progress on the list! Poly Upper engine mount bushings on the way, have a lead on a subwoofer, and a center console.

I might buy a set of used track spec sways off eBay (idk if that's a good idea) they are really cheap...

Now it's just subframe bushings and finding a snabb short shifter... Or I'll swap the cables to the 05+ and go TWM.

Struts are not leaking and I don't see a need to do them at the moment (also they aren't in stock anywhere cheap).

Finally, I finally discovered the source of my rattle--it's the exhaust, or an excuse to get an iPd exhaust.

I love my iPD oval! The sound is SOOOO nice! Should give Ben McNally or Nick a shout, they can get Snabb goodies at amazing prices and Ben does his installs etc. out of Watertown which for us, is gray having him so local. Do you have their contact info? LMK I will PM. I have a set of Delrin SF bushings sitting on my desk waiting to go in .

 

[tired95855]

Looks good Hounddogger! Only 2 weeks into my ownership here. Where did you get ViDA? I've been looking into it but am wary of the software not working correctly.

 

[Hounddogger]

Looks good Hounddogger! Only 2 weeks into my ownership here. Where did you get ViDA? I've been looking into it but am wary of the software not working correctly.

I bought the one on eBay that had been purchased the most... Hilton tuning has a suggested one as well. The only VIDA install issue I had was related to how much RAM it thought I had so I was forced to edit a config file so the installer would run.

 

[tired95855]

Thanks Hounddogger. I can barely post in the forums much less edit a config file. Might have to mooch off someone local

 

[Hounddogger]

Thanks Hounddogger. I can barely post in the forums much less edit a config file. Might have to mooch off someone local

Took 2 seconds and I found the directions on Swedespeed. As long as you are running a 64 bit OS you shouldn't have a problem, my issue was I was using 32 bit Win7 (I think)...

 

[tired95855]

Took 2 seconds and I found the directions on Swedespeed. As long as you are running a 64 bit OS you shouldn't have a problem, my issue was I was using 32 bit Win7 (I think)...

Using a modified Apple IIc. Getting parts together for stage 0. Even though timing belt was done @ 109k ( 123k on the clock now ) I may delve into this for piece of mind. Good luck with the build. Will be following.

 

[Hounddogger]

Car updated, realigned, and a poly upper torque mount installed. I have the smaller upper mount but it appears to require a vice/press to get out of the strut bar. Vibration isn't terrible--except at idle with the AC on. Good thing I only have poly strut bar inserts as a truly solid strut bar mount would make the poly torque mount suck. Also re-thinking my plan to replace the rear suspension rubber with poly... Maybe I'll just go OEM. However, the front is going poly front position/XC70 for rear position.

 

[R-Pow3R3d]

Vibration isn't terrible--except at idle with the AC on.

You probably already did this, but in case you didn't, loosen the bolt through the poly bushing while the caR is running in Neutral and then retorque it. Torquing the bolt with the caR in Neutral can help reduce vibration in that gear position.

 

[Hounddogger]

You probably already did this, but in case you didn't, loosen the bolt through the poly bushing while the caR is running in Neutral and then retorque it. Torquing the bolt with the caR in Neutral can help reduce vibration in that gear position.

Haha yep. I might go do it again though...

 

[R-Pow3R3d]

Could the rubber in your strut bar mounts be worn out? You said you were glad you didn't have solid strut bar conversion mounts, does that mean they are still original?

And thanks for PM!

 

[Hounddogger]

Could the rubber in your strut bar mounts be worn out? You said you were glad you didn't have solid strut bar conversion mounts, does that mean they are still original?

And thanks for PM!

Possibly. I just put a poly insert kit into it.

 

[Hounddogger]

New battery after the old one tested at 480A/800A. Volvo wanted $450 for just the battery... Wal-Mart wanted $125

 

[T501]

You can by the whole mount with bracket from FCP or ipd. You can get the updated square mount which is better than the round one. As far as poly goes, been there done that. It's not for me. If you have a nice suspension and replace your worn rubber mounts with new ones, the car will feel about as solid as it does with poly mounts but much much less vibration. You don't have to buy OEM. You can buy Hutchinson and/or Lemforder. They make the OEM mounts for Volvo so it's just as good at half the price.