So I'm sure several people read my thread about that nasty scratch on my passenger door. Whether it came from a cart, key, etc, I made the decision to get a new Dash Camera. Next time, if it was some idiot keying my car, they'll be on video. Or I can see what exactly happened.

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Camera-Hardwiring-Installation-Included/dp/B07HMBV3H3/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1546981725&sr=8-3&keywords=viofo+a129+duo

1. I ordered the camera Above. A Voifo A129 Duo that comes with the hardwiring kit.

2. I ordered the suction mounts below. Camera mounts with 3M adhesive. A Big No No since my windows tinted. So I'll have suction cup mounts instead.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FGI9R0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So the Big Questions

I'm nervous on the install and have tried to watch videos, but they aren't either Volvo Specific or are for European Volvos that don't match up to MY 15.5.

My Car is an American 2015.5 Volvo S60 T5 FWD

A. My question, WHAT Fuse do I use to hardwire the Camera to allow it to run off a constant supply of power WITHOUT interfering with the electrical systems. If you look at the Camera Link above, it comes with a hardwiring kit where you plug in BOTH fuses to the adapter? Please see below for an image of the Fuse Box sitting under the Front Passenger Side glove box.

View attachment 47487

B. What is the best way to route the wires? Anyone mind uploading a "How To". I can't find a good video for a Volvo. I know the hardwiring kit has to terminate at the fuse box (what route do people take).

And then what about the rear camera cables? What route do I take for those without interfering with the airbags?

I'd really appreciate some guidance and pictures. I'm trying to determine if this is a DIY project or better to pay a professional.

Just a lay man idea here. I think you can source some power with the rear view mirror wires. Probably the city safety wiring

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Thanks. Hoping I can get some definites here. Might just call around to check on professional install prices, too.

 

If you aren't accustomed to tearing apart interior panels (and the potential for breaking clips etc.) to determine the best situation for routing cables, I would highly recommend not doing it yourself. You aren't going to get "definites" here, as there are just aren't any manuals or best practices for these sorts of things (there are some "manuals" for panel removal but you have to decipher them through various installation guides of accessories and equipment). Also, if you don't know electrical systems and can't ready the EWG, don't go messing with the electricals. Not a dig, just being honest. Get some help.

Just use the one from the cigarettelighter. I would not use City Safety because it's a safety system and it needs to be reliable.

The 12V from the console is switched. It's actually one of the only few switched power sources in the whole car, which is why I have to run my remote turn-on wire from the center console to the trunk's subfloor to turn on both my amplifier and my line level converter/processor.

I too suggest staying away from tapping power post fuse box from another system, the amount of current can exceed the fuse rating and you'll blow the circuit and fuse (and definitely stay away from adding a higher amperage fuse to compensate for the added draw) .I would suggest finding the 12V leading to the fuse box and then tapping off power (with the appropriate fuse in-line for the camera) or tapping directly from the battery and going through the grommet in the firewall to the interior. I have on one occasion blown the fuse to the 12V circuit in the console when I was pulling too much power to feed the audio equipment and quickcharging two phones, so there's always a potential for things to go wrong.

 

Just use the one from the cigarettelighter. I would not use City Safety because it's a safety system and it needs to be reliable.

 

Since you want continuous power, I don't think there is anything in the glove box fuses like that, but I could be mistaken, so check your car manual what fuses exactly are those for.
In my XC90, the only thing with continuous power is the 12V socket in the rear cargo.

 

I have took the swithed 12V from the sigaret lighter and the normal 12V from the power socket in the boot.

 

Why not add a Centech sub panel fed from the battery, which will give you a fused source of constant power? There are plenty of ways to modify such a set up to accommodate accessories without taping into a circuit already being used by another device. What level of consumption will the camera have?

https://www.centechwire.com/Fuse-Panels_c3.htm

 

Let me know if anyone can post pictures of their installations. Photos from an S60 would be even more appreciated.

 

Here's my S60 install.

 

I hardwired my radar detector from the passenger foot well fuse block (i'll get to the specific fuse in a miniute), I wanted to touch on a couple of comments I read above first.

Squeeze the wire slightly behind the A-pillar airbag trim is not going to be an issue. Air bags are way more powerful and the wire is not going to hold them from deploying plus you won't have to tuck the wire that deep anyways.

- This is the single worst advice I have seen on the forums thus far. Absolutely do not do this, it is beyond stupid.

Instead, pull the clip off the a pillar that says airbag. This is hiding a fastener and will allow for you to pull the panel off enough to see the airbag. Tape something rigid to the wire and fish it BEHIND the airbag and then pull the wire through. Run the wire down the A pillar and up into the foot well.

As for the Fuse, I used the fuse for the 12v outlets.

It occurred to me after reading this post, a video explaining the process of installing a hardwired device is needed, I will create that shortly and upload. I cannot stress it enough, never should a wire cross in between you and an airbag. Whatever is in front of the airbag will be thrown at you at a high rate of speed and potentially harm you.

 

It occurred to me after reading this post, a video explaining the process of installing a hardwired device is needed, I will create that shortly and upload.

I'm also going to add a dash cam and would definitely appreciate install tips as well!

 

Looking at Manual I see two 12V Fuses. One in Glove Compartment and One in the Trunk. At least according to manual:

Glove Box

http://i66.tinypic.com/2nu3mvl.jpg

Trunk

http://tinypic.com/r/x1y5qx/9

 

I took some photos and videos today. I will post tomorrow. Ended up doing a lot of maintenance today and didn't get to posting.

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I took some photos and videos today. I will post tomorrow. Ended up doing a lot of maintenance today and didn't get to posting.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Can you answer these 2 questions please (and then I'm done).

1. Is there an airbag behind the B Pillar - Where Seat Belts are At? Or can i route through groves.
2. Is there an airbag behind the c Pillar near the Back Windshield? Or can I route through the groves>

I originally routed to the drivers side and did all that work to remove the A Pillar. Changing my mind after looking at having to remove the Passenger A Pillar for hardwire kit. Originally, I was going to do one on either side but that made no sense. Killed the screws a bit getting off the A Pillar. Too damn tight and I didn't have a good tool that properly fit. So those screws seen a bit better days.

Basically... I'm now waiting on your answer if the B and C Pillar has an airbag and if I need to remove those. Or if I can route through to back windshield and be DONE DONE DONE!

 

Here's a quick photo of fuse location. This was a blank spot ( no fuse ). This fuse turns on when I unlock car and off after around 5 minutes of locking.

Fuse number 2 in second photo.

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Here's a quick photo of fuse location. This was a blank spot ( no fuse ). This fuse turns on when I unlock car and off after around 5 minutes of locking.

Fuse number 2 in second photo.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Wouldn't I want continuous power so the camera can record while the car is shut off? Otherwise, it won't catch any dingbats who either hit or mess up my car....??

 

I sourced a photo from VIDA for you. It appears the side curtain runs all the way down the C pillar as well.....

 

Crap.. So are you telling me that running the cable into the grooves of the B and C Pillar will obstruct the airbags? I googled the v60 and you have the same layout of the S60 but with a longer hatch. How exactly did you route your cables then?

Only way I can think of if I cannot route in the grooves of B and C is through the headliner to back windshield or carpet??? What exactly did you do?

 

I installed one 2 months ago in my '06 S60R and I couldn't have done it without a multimeter. The car manual told me which fuses to avoid but my kit had specifics that were limiting (like maximum 15 A to piggy back). Turns out all the fuses were hot in the fuse box under the steering wheel so I had to run one line from there and then one from the fuse box on the side of the dash. I bought a vicovation device to use for the hardwire as it's one of few out there that have customizable settings for voltage. The standard hard wire kits qill ket your battery drain to 11.4 or 11.6 V which means it probably won't start. I can set mine to 12.2 or 12.4 or set a time limit or a temperature shut off in the summer. HIGHLY recommended

 

Hi, please check this thread. I think I covered it well enough. Good luck!
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=528298

 

S60 is a different beast. Reviewed the thread. Running under carpet won't help much in an S60. You still have to get past the A-Pillar and tuck behind airbag. Only thing carpeting is going to do is avoid the B Pillar. Which from removing the panel has the wire sitting above sea tbelt and not affecting the airbag. And you still have to run the wire up which means either under the seat (makes no sense) or on the molding up the C Pillar. Where you still have to remove the Trim and ALSO tuck behind the C Pillar Airbag.

The XC60 and XC90 are much easier to wire. Because you can do the A-Pillar Airbag (tuck under) run the wire under floor trim, and exit out the trunk without having to worry about the C-Pillar Airbag found in the S60. The C Pillar airbag on the S60 is right before the back windshield. A problem not facedin the XC60 / XC90.

Only thing I didn't do that he did is tuck my wire under the Intellisafe plastic Mirror. I don't have the same clip on as he does. And I ran alongside the plastic mirror trim.

 

I've run many wires from the front of the car through the back and have never had to run them "under the carpet" or under the (front?) seat. You're over complicating this.

These are my amp power and signal wires going from the center console/under passenger seat (where the lines are tapped from OEM amp) and run along the car and to the trunk. Never had to remove the B pillar plastics and never had to go anywhere near an airbag. And this isn't even the final picture. All the wires are tucked and you now cannot see a single wire anywhere in the car, just as it should be.

 

I guess it depends upon preference. For a rear dash camera, it isn't as easy as "tucking wires" under the passenger seat. At some you have to terminate the wire up to the back windshield. So you could run along the carpet molding, up the side of the seat *tucked in) and then under the carpet of the rear window. But then people get up and down. So I think the wires tucked behind passenger seat might come loose at some point.

Tucking under pillars hides the wires and removes any chance the wires will get stepped upon, etc. But yes, you could run these wires bunches of ways. I had mine perfect until i dropped the damn screw. Now I'm mad. Can't figure out how to remove C Pillar Trim to look down and try to find screw. Might have dealer help me out or family friend. The trim piece is only $38 bucks if broken but I'd rather not break anything.

 

Since I just bought a Dashcam too, I am jumping on the conversation. I would like to hard wire the car and unfortuinately, even with 1000 videos, no one is able to show where they plugged the fuse.

Please let me know if my assumptions are correct. My assumptions are based on:
https://www.autogenius.info/volvo-v60-2016-fuse-box-diagram/
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?528298-Dash-Cam-for-XC60 (post#23)
https://fuse-box.info/volvo/volvo-xc60-2018-fuses-and-relays

I will use the Fusebox in glove compartment
Fusebox A: Fuse 29 and 30 are not used on my car and need to check if there is Permanent Live Power
Fusebox B: Fuse 9 is not used on my car too. same idea

Then, need to find an unassigned fuse location.

Hope to hear from you to see which fuse you use to setup this.
Thanks,

 

I cannot chime in yet. The Mechanic I know who is going show me where to hardwire my dash cam (Volvo S60) has been busy. So I have no updates to give yet. Once everything is properly setup, I'll take photos.

 

UPDATE:

So my Dash Camera is fully installed and functional. Family friend helped with hardwiring so everything is running. I wont have time to post pictures until later this week ( have to take them)

But a few words / cautionary advice.

I ran my VoifoA129 Cable:

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1188228&ukey_make=865&ukey_model=12009&modelYear=2015&ukey_category=7854&ukey_driveLine=441

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/2015/S60-20l-4-cylinder-Turbo/Sill-moulding--RH-Sill-moulding--RH/1126102/39810366.html

1. A Pillar (under airbag) - Must Pop Off ICAIRBAG Clip (Image 3) - Undo Screw - Route Wire Behind Airbag.

2. Pull away weather stripping from door Comes right out

3. You now have to remove the item #7 Panel. - Be Careful - Have to Pop Off Clips (Break Easily)

4. Also need to pop off Sill Molding (Link #2). - Broke some clips here - I need to replace this piece. :facepalm: Be forewarned it's easy to break.

5. Behind the Panel in #7 and Sill Mold - You'll find a screw with a metal washer - This can be used as "Ground". Put Ground behind screw but on top of washer.

6. Begin tucking rear camera wire above headliner. You'll need to Cross the "B Pillar". From what I saw, the wire sits above seat belt but below airbag,so doesn't seem to be an issue by just tucking it into B Pillar.

7. Remove IC Airbag cap on C-Pill. Tuck under airbag. And tuck remaining cabling under headliner (if excess).

8. I used a fuse tap on #15 (Power Seat) for Constant Power. - 20 Amp Fuse Protects Seat - Put 15 Amp fuse to Protect Camera. Can't remember which I used on ACC. Fuse box cover won't close with a fuse tap. I cut out the shape of taps. Looks ghettofied but works....I believe the Fusebox Cap is only around $3-$4 dollars so don't fret cutting it.

I did mess up and hot glued a piece of the cap(Flap) from falling off. Shouldn't affect anything. Could always buy another and try again anyway if I want.

View attachment 47937

Parts I'll need to replace:

1. Sill Mold ~ $11 - Broke Clips...hard to get off
2. Going to replace IC Airbag Cap on Rear Right Passenger C - Pillar ($4.25) - Plastic Tail that keeps Cap from falling off broke - My Fault....No big deal

Recovered screw. So all is good on that end.

 

Awesome and real great news.
I spent my weekend to remove everything without breaking anything and put the wire all along the path. Now, I am looking at ACC and the fuse tap to use and I am ready to go. (thanks for the idea of using the Power seat fuse location)

 

I bought a BlackVue DR750S-2CH and used their new Power Magic EZ that plugs into the OBD port and it works great. I won't use parking mode that often and the on/off switch is conveniently located on the driver side when needed, and no need to mess around with the fuze box and tap wires. I didn't have to remove the A-pillar, just removed the bolt under the airbag badge to loosen it and fed the wire behind everything. The rest of it you can get to by pulling the weather stripping so that part was a breeze.

The only really tough part was removing the trim from the rear of my V60CC to install the rear camera clean. I was able to pass it through the factory grommets and I'm happy how it turned out. I included some pictures below that shows how to release them and also the fastener locations on the back of the panels and the tools that work well to remove them - I broke a few of them because I didn't know what I was doing at first. It's best to take care because there are some electronic components that could get damaged.

 

I bought a BlackVue DR750S-2CH and used their new Power Magic EZ that plugs into the OBD port and it works great. I won't use parking mode that often and the on/off switch is conveniently located on the driver side when needed, and no need to mess around with the fuze box and tap wires. I didn't have to remove the A-pillar, just removed the bolt under the airbag badge to loosen it and fed the wire behind everything. The rest of it you can get to by pulling the weather stripping so that part was a breeze.

The only really tough part was removing the trim from the rear of my V60CC to install the rear camera clean. I was able to pass it through the factory grommets and I'm happy how it turned out. I included some pictures below that shows how to release them and also the fastener locations on the back of the panels and the tools that work well to remove them - I broke a few of them because I didn't know what I was doing at first. It's best to take care because there are some electronic components that could get damaged.

Those clips on the plastic trim are easy as hell to break. As you see mentioned, the sill moulding clips broke when I pulled mine up. Luckily, the plastic trim parts are relatively easy to replace. And yes, you can undo bolt behind IC-Airbag cap and slide behind airbag.

Good work on install.

 

So an Update

Camera #1 was faulty. Had Amazon send me a replacement.

Now testing Camera #2. So far so good. Viofo A129 Duo using a 256GB Sandisk A2 Extreme memory card. Hardwire job #2 mechanic friend soldered wires. I also was far more meticulous neatly tucking and hiding wires. So not all lost.

#14 Fuse (Driver or Passenger Power Seat) for Battery (Constant Power)
#27 for ACC (Ignition) (Heated Seats - Front Driver)

Used Add a Fuse. Mechanic Friend Crimped and Soldered Wires this go around. Prior, he tested fuses to find proper ones. I did the rest.

If anyone has questions, I'll be glad to offer any advice if I know the answer. Pretty much, DO NOT LISTEN to anyone saying route above A or C Pillar. These have side airbag curtains. You cannot tuck these wires and MUST route behind airbag by removing A-Pillar Trim. Otherwise, you could obstruct these safety features during an accident.