SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Hardwiring a dash Camera - Some Guidance = Or have Done Professionally:

17K views 49 replies 15 participants last post by  MyVolvoS60  
Thanks. Hoping I can get some definites here. Might just call around to check on professional install prices, too.
If you aren't accustomed to tearing apart interior panels (and the potential for breaking clips etc.) to determine the best situation for routing cables, I would highly recommend not doing it yourself. You aren't going to get "definites" here, as there are just aren't any manuals or best practices for these sorts of things (there are some "manuals" for panel removal but you have to decipher them through various installation guides of accessories and equipment). Also, if you don't know electrical systems and can't ready the EWG, don't go messing with the electricals. Not a dig, just being honest. Get some help.

Just use the one from the cigarettelighter. I would not use City Safety because it's a safety system and it needs to be reliable.
The 12V from the console is switched. It's actually one of the only few switched power sources in the whole car, which is why I have to run my remote turn-on wire from the center console to the trunk's subfloor to turn on both my amplifier and my line level converter/processor.

I too suggest staying away from tapping power post fuse box from another system, the amount of current can exceed the fuse rating and you'll blow the circuit and fuse (and definitely stay away from adding a higher amperage fuse to compensate for the added draw) .I would suggest finding the 12V leading to the fuse box and then tapping off power (with the appropriate fuse in-line for the camera) or tapping directly from the battery and going through the grommet in the firewall to the interior. I have on one occasion blown the fuse to the 12V circuit in the console when I was pulling too much power to feed the audio equipment and quickcharging two phones, so there's always a potential for things to go wrong.
 
I've run many wires from the front of the car through the back and have never had to run them "under the carpet" or under the (front?) seat. You're over complicating this.

Image


These are my amp power and signal wires going from the center console/under passenger seat (where the lines are tapped from OEM amp) and run along the car and to the trunk. Never had to remove the B pillar plastics and never had to go anywhere near an airbag. And this isn't even the final picture. All the wires are tucked and you now cannot see a single wire anywhere in the car, just as it should be.