Fuel pressure sensor replacement how to
Disclaimer:
This write-up is in the spirit of sharing my personal experience. Due to risk involved with extremely flammable fuel and possible engine mal function as a result of this procedure I cannot be held responsible for any personal or material injuries that could occur to you or other parties by reading and/or using any parts of this write-up. Following or being influenced in anyway by any or all of these instructions or photographs is entirely at your own risk!!! Proceed with caution.
First of all I want to make sure I'm not taking the credit to myself. I pretty much followed m4gician's write up which was very helpful and without which I may not have done this myself due to fuel related dangers: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...hread.php?154495-How-to-Change-your-Fuel-Pressure-Sensor-on-the-T5-engine/page2
That said I simply wanted to add a few photographs and a few tips learning from my own experience.
I'm not going to explain why I decided to change it. Lol, I'm not even sure myself . . . Issues here and there I'm trying to improve.
Before starting make sure your engine is cool enough. You'll be dealing with flammable fuel.
I ended up getting the fuel pressure sensor part# Volvo 31272732 aka Bosch 0261230239 for my 2005 S40T5.
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![Image]()
There is another less expensive Land-Rover part# some have used mentioned in m4gician's thread but I went with this one just to be safe.
You need to first unplug a fuse to release fuel pressure in the fuel injection rail.
Under the front passenger side glove compartment remove the felt cover to access fuse drop down box.
To do so two plastic snap buttons are used to hold it up. With a screw driver or small pliers push the inside of each "button" this will release them.
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Pull down and you can put cover aside.
![Image]()
To release dropdown fuse box turn each knob 180° counter clock wise.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Pull down to clear screw knobs element then rotate the fuse box down and forward at the same time.
![Image]()
With needle pliers or fuse removal tool pull fuse#74 located on the first row. Number is indicated on the plastic not on the fuse (fuse number being amperage). It can be hard to see.
![Image]()
Start the car and let it idle and die. Wait at least 10 second and start again. Do that one more time… This will release some of the fuel line pressure but you will see later that it won't prevent gas from leaking out.
To add a level of safety, do unplug your battery. This will make sure no accidental spark occurs as you remove old fuel pressure sensor. I think it will help making sure the car reset with the new fuel pressure sensor as well.
![Image]()
Loosen the two bolts holding down the main engine cover (left bolts). You don't need to remove them. Just to loosen them. This is optional but may help removing the next cover.
![Image]()
Remove the two bolts holding the timing belt cover.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Slide cover to the left of the engine (when looking straight at the engine bay) then separate it from the timing belt side cover snap detail/ridge in the middle of both covers. Pull that side to the left then up to clear hook details on front and back of the top timing belt cover and lift the cover up and around the oil fill cap. It sounds complicated but it's not that hard really and you will see quickly what happens.
![Image]()
On the right side of the fuel injection rail (battery side) there's a blue cap similar to a tire valve cap.
![Image]()
Remove the cap but make sure to not let it fall. Put it aside and don't lose it
![Image]()
Grab plenty of paper towel/rag and possibly some plastic like zip lock bag to put under the paper. Tuck it right bellow and around the valve. More fuel than I expected will leak out of there.
With a flat screw driver, push slowly on the valve inner pin to start emptying the fuel rail of its gas. Start slowly because it may splash all over otherwise. Press it further more to empty all the gas in the rail. If your paper start to fill up too much stop and replace it. Press on the valve pin a few times until no more gas or air flows out of the valve. At first I thought I didn't do the pressure release procedure correctly because much more gas than I expected was coming out of the fuel rail but eventually it will stop.
![Image]()
There isn't much room to remove the sensor retention bolt. I grabbed a small ¼" flat wrench and a hex stare fitting.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Loosen the bolt counter clock wise. Then finish removing it by hand. Again, don't let it fall down the engine bay
![Image]()
Unplug the sensor connector. You can do than before or after having removed the bolt securing the sensor. But don't remove the senor itself yet.
There's a small snap tab you have to pry out to unplug the connector.
![Image]()
Then pull on the connector straight out. Move the connector to the side so no gas leaks on the contacts.
![Image]()
Again grab plenty of paper towel/rag and some plastic underneath and stuff it bellow the sensor. Some gas will leak out quite a bit when you remove the sensor from there. The alternator is just under so it's best to be careful there.
Sorry I forgot to take a photograph here
Now start pulling the sensor out horizontally. Has fuel starts to leak make sure your paper absorbs it.
Okay the old sensor is out.
Make sure you don't let any dirt going into the fuel rail sensor opening.
Also make sure your new fuel sensor is clean and no dirt is on the sensor tip forward of the Oring.
Here is what the two looks like
![Image]()
Slide the new sensor horizontally back in place and put everything back in reverse order.
![Image]()
Don't forget to put back:
- The fuel pressure sensor retaining bolt
- The fuel pressure sensor connector
- The fuel rail valve cap
- ALL bolts and engine covers
- The fuse on the passenger side compartment
- And the battery contacts after the fuse possibly
You can't avoid having some gas that will leak on engine surfaces.
Once you have put everything back together I recommend waiting 30 minutes for that fuel to have evaporated, just an additional safety precaution.
Then start the car and make sure it idles correctly before taking it for a test drive.
If all goes well you are done!!
Greg
Disclaimer:
This write-up is in the spirit of sharing my personal experience. Due to risk involved with extremely flammable fuel and possible engine mal function as a result of this procedure I cannot be held responsible for any personal or material injuries that could occur to you or other parties by reading and/or using any parts of this write-up. Following or being influenced in anyway by any or all of these instructions or photographs is entirely at your own risk!!! Proceed with caution.
First of all I want to make sure I'm not taking the credit to myself. I pretty much followed m4gician's write up which was very helpful and without which I may not have done this myself due to fuel related dangers: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...hread.php?154495-How-to-Change-your-Fuel-Pressure-Sensor-on-the-T5-engine/page2
That said I simply wanted to add a few photographs and a few tips learning from my own experience.
I'm not going to explain why I decided to change it. Lol, I'm not even sure myself . . . Issues here and there I'm trying to improve.
Before starting make sure your engine is cool enough. You'll be dealing with flammable fuel.
I ended up getting the fuel pressure sensor part# Volvo 31272732 aka Bosch 0261230239 for my 2005 S40T5.
There is another less expensive Land-Rover part# some have used mentioned in m4gician's thread but I went with this one just to be safe.
You need to first unplug a fuse to release fuel pressure in the fuel injection rail.
Under the front passenger side glove compartment remove the felt cover to access fuse drop down box.
To do so two plastic snap buttons are used to hold it up. With a screw driver or small pliers push the inside of each "button" this will release them.
Pull down and you can put cover aside.
To release dropdown fuse box turn each knob 180° counter clock wise.
Pull down to clear screw knobs element then rotate the fuse box down and forward at the same time.
With needle pliers or fuse removal tool pull fuse#74 located on the first row. Number is indicated on the plastic not on the fuse (fuse number being amperage). It can be hard to see.
Start the car and let it idle and die. Wait at least 10 second and start again. Do that one more time… This will release some of the fuel line pressure but you will see later that it won't prevent gas from leaking out.
To add a level of safety, do unplug your battery. This will make sure no accidental spark occurs as you remove old fuel pressure sensor. I think it will help making sure the car reset with the new fuel pressure sensor as well.
Loosen the two bolts holding down the main engine cover (left bolts). You don't need to remove them. Just to loosen them. This is optional but may help removing the next cover.
Remove the two bolts holding the timing belt cover.
Slide cover to the left of the engine (when looking straight at the engine bay) then separate it from the timing belt side cover snap detail/ridge in the middle of both covers. Pull that side to the left then up to clear hook details on front and back of the top timing belt cover and lift the cover up and around the oil fill cap. It sounds complicated but it's not that hard really and you will see quickly what happens.
On the right side of the fuel injection rail (battery side) there's a blue cap similar to a tire valve cap.
Remove the cap but make sure to not let it fall. Put it aside and don't lose it
Grab plenty of paper towel/rag and possibly some plastic like zip lock bag to put under the paper. Tuck it right bellow and around the valve. More fuel than I expected will leak out of there.
With a flat screw driver, push slowly on the valve inner pin to start emptying the fuel rail of its gas. Start slowly because it may splash all over otherwise. Press it further more to empty all the gas in the rail. If your paper start to fill up too much stop and replace it. Press on the valve pin a few times until no more gas or air flows out of the valve. At first I thought I didn't do the pressure release procedure correctly because much more gas than I expected was coming out of the fuel rail but eventually it will stop.
There isn't much room to remove the sensor retention bolt. I grabbed a small ¼" flat wrench and a hex stare fitting.
Loosen the bolt counter clock wise. Then finish removing it by hand. Again, don't let it fall down the engine bay
Unplug the sensor connector. You can do than before or after having removed the bolt securing the sensor. But don't remove the senor itself yet.
There's a small snap tab you have to pry out to unplug the connector.
Then pull on the connector straight out. Move the connector to the side so no gas leaks on the contacts.
Again grab plenty of paper towel/rag and some plastic underneath and stuff it bellow the sensor. Some gas will leak out quite a bit when you remove the sensor from there. The alternator is just under so it's best to be careful there.
Sorry I forgot to take a photograph here
Now start pulling the sensor out horizontally. Has fuel starts to leak make sure your paper absorbs it.
Okay the old sensor is out.
Make sure you don't let any dirt going into the fuel rail sensor opening.
Also make sure your new fuel sensor is clean and no dirt is on the sensor tip forward of the Oring.
Here is what the two looks like
Slide the new sensor horizontally back in place and put everything back in reverse order.
Don't forget to put back:
- The fuel pressure sensor retaining bolt
- The fuel pressure sensor connector
- The fuel rail valve cap
- ALL bolts and engine covers
- The fuse on the passenger side compartment
- And the battery contacts after the fuse possibly
You can't avoid having some gas that will leak on engine surfaces.
Once you have put everything back together I recommend waiting 30 minutes for that fuel to have evaporated, just an additional safety precaution.
Then start the car and make sure it idles correctly before taking it for a test drive.
If all goes well you are done!!
Greg
