Looks like you had fun! I've posted this before, looks like i'll have to post it again. You can get to the "tough bolt" with a box-end wrench without jacking up the suspension.

 

Man..I dont know what tools you have but none of our tools would fit in there.
Now, when we lifted the suspension a bit it cleared a lot of space

 

Good job Tomek. Did you take it for a spin out on the highway?

 

Thanks! Wouldnt be able to do it without you... also glad we torqued it to spec.

I took it for a spin on the LIE that evening and it was very very quite. And here I thought it was my tires....

 

What is the mileage on your car? I am thinking that my RR needs replaced.

 

My left rear started going bad around 110k.

 

I used an S shape wrench to get to the tough bolt, got in there with the car jacked up. But it sounds like Skot53 method will work as well.

 

I did my rears about a month ago and it is so quiet, now i hear my fronts are starting to hum. Got 92,000 miles on them. Rears went about 5,000 miles ago. Replaced rear hubs, discs, emergency brake, and changed the rear brake pads. All good to go.

 

did mine (one) also last month together with a friend. He did most of it because it was his garage/tools But he said to be carefull when pulling of the old bearing, so you don't pull out the axle (or whatever its called)

 

I've been battling my right rear for a couple hours now with no luck. It's totally seized on the knuckle/housing. I've been spraying it with PB blaster periodically, hitting it with a 3lb sledge, and even hooked my slide hammer up and couldn't break it lose with 10 or 15 hits. The bearing housing is completely rusted, which I think is causing a lot of my problem. Any suggestions on how to deal with that? I'm a rust newbie. I'm thinking a torch (the kind used for braising copper pipes?) might be in order. Perhaps I just need to stick with it. I have the jack under the hub right now lifting up the suspension, but my jack is just barely too short to lift the car off of the jackstand by the hub. Perhaps I'll try a block of wood under it or something just to put more weight on the hub, but I'm a little nervous about it breaking lose and the car falling onto the jackstand. Any other suggestions of things I might not have thought of?

Edit: PB Blaster + removing the ebrake stuffs + torch + persistence + frustration blows = WIN. Glad I don't have to put it back together w/ the original hub because I dented the living sh!t out of that thing! If that bearing wasn't bad before, it is now.

It took me a while to get the last bolt out because I wasn't lifting the suspension high enough. Once I lifted it higher, I was able to get a thin walled 17mm socket on it w/ a 6" extension and use a leverage bar on the end of my 3/8" drive ratchet to get enough force on it to break it loose.

 

You guys have part numbers? My lug nuts are stripped and need to replace hub.

 

Part number for the rear hub is: 31340689

Bolts for the rear hub: 985196

 

Looking for the correct part for driver's side rear.

 

RIGHT rear hub: 31340690
LEFT rear hub: 31340689

Pulled from this thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?169070

 

just get them from fcp groton - best deal

 

Thanks...what parts from Groton do I need?

http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-e...s/sub_top_menu_item/by_make-by_model-by_year/by_make/78/by_model/872/by_year/54

 

You need two of THESE

Also, if you look up FCP on this forum, he has a 10% coupon code on all orders - i can't seem to find it now, sorry.