how do you like that intake manifold??

BTW good work

any please provide a pic of your whole engine bay

 

Nicely done, thanks for the writeup! Do you have the price/link of where you purchased it from, and were you satisfied in dealing with the vendor?

 

what he said

 

can George@Viva supply this?

 

 

ECU box certainly looks neat.

P.S. why do you have thermo wrap around the turbo intake pipe when you are anyhow taking hot air under the hood?

 

That pipe gets hot, so i minimize temps. Data logged it and it works.
Now with more space open on the right hand side, might just sneak the BMC down to wheel area and hopefully out the water.

 

Interesting to know. Have you logged IAT of the stock intake vs open air cone filter?

Can't you run a flexible pipe from the stock snorkel under the ECU box and connect it to the BMC which is connected to the MAF?

 

Used PCM Scan with Elm327 BT linked to laptop. Haven't had the stock air box in for a long time.
When you stuck in traffic inlet temps rise. When flooring it under load, highest temps I got was a peak of 48 deg C. Without wrap i saw figures of over 60 deg C as pic shows bellow.

It might look a bit ****e, but to me it works. When driving ram air cools everything down again to normal. Inlet temps sit between 18 -39 deg C when Ambient is +- 18 deg C.
This is done with a slightly bigger Intercooler. Almost same size as Bell Intercooler.

U will loose a couple of Kw's with it sitting in the engine bay, but i think all that colder air gained by having it shielded will get lost when the air hits the extremely hot turbo anyways. It's the effectiveness of your Intercooler that will give you best results.
My 2 cents worth..

 

U will loose a couple of Kw's with it sitting in the engine bay, but i think all that colder air gained by having it shielded will get lost when the air hits the extremely hot turbo anyways. It's the effectiveness of your Intercooler that will give you best results.
My 2 cents worth..

Most probably you are right, but it would ne nice to see some dyno measurements of the stock vs open air intake, to settle this "hot air" dilemma once for all..

 

That lists nearly all of my opinions about this, but now with some research - THANK YOU!

 

I have datalogged mine open (snorkel removed) and closed see below. The temp difference @ 40 MPH was ~24*F higher on an open intake (somewhere around 9hp lost per guess).

Open intake cruising @ 40 MPH:
AAT: 50F
IAT: Much steadier avg around 10-12F above AAT
ECT: 190-194F

@ 40 MPH crusing closed intake:
AAT: 50F
IAT: 59-68F (decreases after about 20 secs of driving to about 12-14 avg below AAT and then 9 above AAT when backing off the throttle and coming to a stop)
ECT: avg 190F

Under boost I got 19F above ambient on an open intake these numbers where all pre intercooler mod (stock IC). With the bell IC I average AAT for IAT in all situations except sustained boost where it average 2-3F above AAT.

Conclusion open intake causes a loss in power in all situations except cruising @ 70MPH and above where the temps on both average 9*F above ambient (stock intercooler).

All these numbers for the open intake are probably slightly better than what a K&N or Injen style intake runs as I just had the snorkel removed and the BMC intake resting about 6" from the cold air coming through the snorkel so I'd guess the numbers for anyone running a filter on the right side of the engine bay with no cold air source would be slightly higher.

 

Yes but don't overlook the 24*F difference on intake temps (the IAT sensor is post IC so an acurate depiction of what the system is really seeing. Keep in mind the upgraded IC lowers temps on average about half what a hot air intake adds, but the real gravy of the IC is reduced pressure drop (less than 1 psi in most reputible units vs stock?)

The IC will deliver more of a HP/Torque increase. But the hot air intake although vs cold air intake shouldn't be over looked. I'd venture to guess that the increased flow that a hot air intake can provide is lost be removing the source of cold air so if could give 9hp net gain you probably also loose 9hp by using on open intake design.

Since these cars will never be race winners in big competitions it really doesn't matter though unless one is after ultimate efficiency.

 

24F difference in IAT temp would certainly have noticeable impact on power. It's hard to estimate the figure but I would expect the figure somewhere between 5 and 10 HP.

 

anybody want to pm george?
i'd like to see this ,ecu cover + closed intake, on other s40's

 

http://c30world.com/forums/showpost.php?p=236284&postcount=10

from Kova.

I already emailed George with this link. his initial knee jerk reaction: 59 pounds? thats about 120 USD for a piece of plastic. lol

has anyone tried using a sponge filter for the open air intake?

 

Nice Erwin

Post the Dyno to show them what she running currently

 

Group buy on the ECU covers! This with a BMC would be my ideal intake setup. Does the stock snorkel even attach to the ECU box at all? If that's the case u are using the air flow of the radiator to cool the ECU. Almost probably no difference than using the headlight bracket I made which places it behind the light in front of my filter. Just a cleaner oe looking placement though with the box, and also means Ford determined the factory air box on the P1 must not have been necessary for cooling.

 

Stock snorkel doesn't attach to the ECU box. We still didn't figure the way to connect stock snorkel with the BMC CDA or OTA box around or beneath the ECU cover.

@slrising: sorry, I don't have the stock intake pipe anymore, mechanic throwed it away.

I'm with George on this one. Why on Earth does a crummy piece of plastic cost that much? LOL.

GB, maybe. If we go that route, I'd like to see a package-deal group buy {Injen + silicon hose to turbo + ECU cover} as one. That way George gets some product movement, and hopefully we can save a few bucks.

I do find it interesting that Ford bailed on the air box as well, including the cooling for the ECU. I imagine Europe has much higher standards for what you can/cannot do to a car compared to us, so this is sort of conjecture that the ECU will be fine in the engine bay without the cold air, as long as it is covered. I realize that ECU box will still get hit with some cold air from the upper grill, but the ECU relocation brackets seem to do a good enough job shielding the ECU from the elements. Shrug.

Obviously Ford engineers concluded that ECU can easily withstand the heat without the additional cooling but wanted to protect it from the vibrations, dust and water.

 

I want to do the map 1st mahomedv

True or false : If you load software and do a Dyno run directly after the load, vs doing 200 kms and then doing a run, would there be a difference in power output ?

 

Probably, as this ECU makes minor tweaks / adaptations to the map. It learns pretty quickly, so you might be okay in a day or two, depending on how you drive.

 

Hmm, well if we got a pretty wicked discount with a large order I would still be in. Could make one for less but would be aluminum which will soak the engine heat.

 

In my opinion Injen got the right place for the ECU, if only they made it of plastic as the RS style ECU cover.

In that case BMC filter can be installed the same way as slrising did in his car taking cold air from stock snorkel.

In my eyes that would be a perfect solution..

 

I will likely just keep my current hand made ECU bracket haha, just locate my filter lower into the trans area. Need to order up some piping and go to town with the chop saw lol.

 

I think you could easily use the BMC CDA ot OTA and put the filter just above the splash guard (behind the IC) which would allow for the use of the ECU box or possibly slightly higher just under the ECU box.

 

maybe so, but that would make the piping longer. I would prefere to have the ECU in the place Injen has it, but in the plastic cover.

 

Why not just reuse the cover from the stock air box, would merely require making a backing plate and mounting it in the engine bay somehow. may not be as fancy but would be plastic and functional.

 

I believe ECU box should be supported in 3 points using plastic "legs" to reduce vibrations, as it is the case with RS style box. I'm not sure if the stock air box can really be adopted to suite that purpose.

 

Busy playing with other ideas atm.

Did a mock up tonight and sofar so good. I'll make it out of Alclad or Fibre Glass. Still early stages but I'm sure it will work. Excuse the bad quality pics.

Cone fits in snug. Now i need to get ram air and direct it into box. Will do that tomorrow evening.

When box is complete I will run a rubber ontop, same as these window rubbers. The box will seal when Bonnet is closed.

I opend a hole in battery vent as it sits smack in the middle of the box from the top also adding ram air to the setup.

Booted it around the streets and did the 1 minute shut down period. Filter remained cold / cool in the box vs pretty warm without the box. I'll add flex pipe and stick it down in the wheel well area. (Out of the rain)
The other option is to try and get air from the fog light plastic trimming by cutting and making a air scoop in that area.

What do you guys think?

 

Wow we must be on the same page brother, was just shopping for a NSX air box to retrofit to our cars haha. Based on the dimensions don't believe it will fit though. ur idea is exactly right though I like it. Was trying to figure out a oem air box that has tested peak power with merely a panel filter upgrade and bingo NSX popped in my head.

May have to copy ur design if u don't mind.

 

No space behind the fog light grills, the intercooler piping is in the way. I checked last weekend...lol.

 

Here is under-the-hood picture of new Audi A1 Clubsport 503 HP car.

Notice the open air filter - seems they are not concerned with inhaling the hot air issue.

 

It's because they have so much power on tap, not worried about loosing a couple of Hp's

 

Not to mention that turbo is probably running very hot trying to pump enough boost to get that power, so no need to bother about few degrees colder air on intake but rather getting the biggest possible IC to solve the problem.. ;-)

Btw, if I am not mistaken that is 5 cylinder 2.5L engine from Audi TT RS that originally runs 340 HP (or so).

 

It also has hood vents at the extreme edges of the engine bay, allowing heat to escape even at a stand still.