What kind of mileage are you getting? If it's below 21 mpg average, you likely need new coil-packs.

As far as the oil-fouled sparkplug, I'd put in the new ones, and plan to take 'em out and inspect them after 1 month.
I'd test the cylinder compressions. I'd closely track oil consumption over first few thousand miles.

Battery?....the power-lift tailgate uses quite a bit of juice, and is usually operated with the engine off. You want to put in the largest possible battery that fits the battery box (e.g., Interstate MT-92 T7). Since upgrading both my P3 XC70s with this battery, I've never seen the Low Battery warning.

It's probably overdue for AWD service, tranny flush, power steering flush, brake fluid flush. Check the pH of the coolant.

PCV check....do the rubber glove test.

Cooling system: What's your running engine temp.? Should be 88-90C.

Feel the alternator drive collar for any looseness.

Check out the YouTube channel "VolvoSweden"....many detailed repair/maintenance/upgrade videos for this XC70. I think you'll enjoy working on this car. Don't fool around with aftermarket parts....buy Volvo or same quality.

 

Thanks, Eric, I want to follow up with you about the coolant temperature.i checked yesterday on my Torque app and the coolant temperature was 203 fahrenheit (95C) and so was the transmission. This was at idle after driving for a couple of miles. I don't know the significance of it. Seems kinda high. I don't know how accurate the measurements are.

 

Great advice above. The VolvoSweden YouTube channel is amazingly helpful. Their vacuum pump reseal tutorial saved me a lot of money.

Check your serpentine belt as well. If it has never been done, you are way past the interval and should tend to it right away. FCP Euro has a kit that includes the belt and all of the tensioners/pulleys. Be sure to replace the alternator decoupler pulley along with it, and check the alternator drive collar, as stated above. This could very well fix your battery issue if it's related to improper charging.

If you have time, start a personal thread and document on the forum what you're working on with the car! I'd love to see the "restoration."

 

Thanks for the input! More research to do...
From what I can gather, the power steering fluid was flushed at 85 K and the break fluid at 135K. No indication of anything else being done other than brakes, oil changes tire rotation, rear coil springs and sway bar links replaced at 135K and the"engine computer module reprogrammed" by the last dealer (whatever that means). All of the work has been done at non volvo shops. I am not a mechanic but I had done most of the things recommended here on my other cars (mostly Toyotas and a Ford ranger). I am still getting familiar with the T6 engine bay. It is a little more crowded in there and has different parts and designs than I am used to. Do you have a recommendation on how to get the VIDA tool? It looks like it would be a worthwhile investment since I am going to be a Volvo mechanic ,

 

Your brake fluid needs flushing. Your coolant ABSOLUTELY needs replacement. At Volvo of Toronto, each of those costs ~CAD125. Just stupid-cheap preventative maintenance, IMO.

Other highly useful tips from VolvoSweden is the AWD and diff servicing. Yuri gives you the part numbers, and you need a 250mm syringe, but take your time and it’s simple enough. I also installed the iPd rear diff module cover, as I live in the Salt Belt. Again, all cheap insurance.

I’d recommend against a transmission flush, but commence a series of drain and fills with Volvo-spec fluid. ~3.8l of ATF/service. I have the dealer do this because of the idiotic fill plug design.

 

Your brake fluid needs flushing. Your coolant ABSOLUTELY needs replacement. At Volvo of Toronto, each of those costs ~CAD125. Just stupid-cheap preventative maintenance, IMO.

Other highly useful tips from VolvoSweden is the AWD and diff servicing. Yuri gives you the part numbers, and you need a 250mm syringe, but take your time and it's simple enough. I also installed the iPd rear diff module cover, as I live in the Salt Belt. Again, all cheap insurance.

I'd recommend against a transmission flush, but commence a series of drain and fills with Volvo-spec fluid. ~3.8l of ATF/service. I have the dealer do this because of the idiotic fill plug design.

So brake system flush is recommended every 40k miles?

 

Regarding the low battery light - Volvo's are pretty sensitive to this so the battery may just be a little low from sitting a lot - like most cars have been the past 12+ months.

Definitely do a full stage zero on the car - all fluids and filters. ATF change is easy enough to do yourself - get the kit from FCP. Having a VIDA set up of your own is invaluable - easiest to just get a PC that already has the program loaded.

 

Regarding the low battery light - Volvo's are pretty sensitive to this so the battery may just be a little low from sitting a lot - like most cars have been the past 12+ months.

Definitely do a full stage zero on the car - all fluids and filters. ATF change is easy enough to do yourself - get the kit from FCP. Having a VIDA set up of your own is invaluable - easiest to just get a PC that already has the program loaded.

Thanks, Wayne, as I am reading up on it, it might be that the battery is being drained by the satellite radio. The car is driven daily and not just for short distance so it should be charging fine. There is also the possibility that there is a charging issue but I will have to figure out how to verify that.

 

If you buy VIDA, be sure to get 14d version....this cover cars up thru end of 2014.

 

Hey fellow newbie! Last week I bought a 2014 XC70 T6 with 165,000 miles on it. It was a one owner car and it looks like the previous owner took meticulous care of it and had all of its service done at the Volvo dealership they purchased it from. I’ll be joining you in learning how to work on these things! Cheers!

 

I had the same issue when I got my 2013 T6 XC70 3 month ago. I ended up replacing the battery since it was 5 years old.
If I were you, probably trickle charge the battery and see what happens. Unfortunately, replacing a battery takes an extra step (need reset) for these cars.
I had a scanner to reset but if not, it could have cost me more than what I anticipated.
Anyway.. enjoy you new ride!

 

I wonder if it was reset when they changed it the last time. What scanner did you use? I only have an OBDII scanner with Torque app. I don't think it has that function.

 

Just an update, so far I replaced the air and cabin filters, spark plugs (some of which had some dried up oil in the well - picture below), some interior trim and that's it. I have everything for the transmission fluid change, oil change and vacuum pump repair kit. Even the PCB oil trap but maybe I will send it back as the current one seems to be working fine. I ordered the ignition coils as well as I have a couple that are giving me intermittent trouble. I should be able to get the fluid changes done this week. Here is the picture of one of the spark plugs:

IMG_20210513_222942668.jpg

• Brankovie
• May 18, 2021

 

Wow, those plugs look pretty rough. I'm sure you noticed a performance bump when you got those out of there.

 

Just a quick update,. I replaced the transmission fluid. It was filthy. Then I was poking around in VIDA and found a test for alternator function. It really tests the voltage regulator. The test failed and it seems that the battery is not charging properly. It was not supplying the amount of voltage requested especially under lower battery temperatures.
The battery charge was 70%. I don't know what it was when I put it in a few days ago though. Still more work to do. Good thing I bought it cheap!

 

I just bought my first Volvo the other day as well. 156k 2014 T6 XC70. Great car but have found a few issues after driving for a few days. Automatic liftgate would raise and immediately return to close position. Replaced the strut? And shock and it is working properly now.

Found some oil residue in the coolant reservoir so I am pretty sure the oil coolet is leaking into coolant. No coolant in oil. Have ordered a new oil cooler and tranny flush kit. Will obviously have to flush cooling system good as well.

Had a slight shimmy in steering wheel from 55 to 70. Checked all axle shafts and driveline. Found that it has aftermarket rims and they had a larger mounting area than hub. Buying aluminum hubcentric rings that matched size for $12 was a cheep fix. Well, that is after buying a new set of shoes and having them balanced......

I was out of town on a job for a week and I noticed that it was a little slower to start when I returned. I have been working on it the last few days and found the battery dead. I don't know if that is because I had it up on jackstands and was checking hubs, axle shafts, etc with it in gear and running in the airand turned it off while it was in gear and left it that way overnight?

Recharging battery and will check charging system, and for phantom loads with car off.

This is the first car that I have had that has so many electronics and computer controls. I am a little nervous but otherwise it has been pretty straightforward so far. You can definitely tell how well built it is overall though. I obviously need to get the Vida software as well.

I assume the resale value on these cars plummets with what I would not usually consider that high of mileage and not really that old, because of the huge cost you would have to pay someone to fix the car if you are not a do it yourself er! I was reading somewhere where someone's soil cooler sprung a leak into the coolant (at 78k miles) and the dealer bill was 5k! From there they argued it down to 3.5K! Ouch We will see, I'll give it a try for a while and see what happens?

 

Ended up being a bad battery.