ok you are talking about the cvvt solenoid for exhaust cam shaft. it is located under the black plastic cover om top of engine. if u remove the first 2 t30 screws on the cover u will see it.DO NOT LUBE THE GASKET.

 

Ok. Now, do you know if this would be the proper part?

http://www.tascaparts.com/volvo/s60...06-year/2-5t-trim/2-5l-l5-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat/?part_name=solenoid

 

yes also need gasket

 

Ok. Thanks a bunch Volvo1924. As soon as I get the solenoid, I'll try to replace it and post the results here.

 

Did you test the solenoid at all or?? Could very well be clogged ports either going to it or coming out of it. If you have a multimeter, you can disconnect the harness and measure resistance at the solenoid itself across the two pins. I'd have to look up the spec to have an idea what a good range is but if its OL/Open, then its obviously shot. Could very well be the harness as well if you wanted to do some testing before you throw a part at it.

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Did you test the solenoid at all or?? Could very well be clogged ports either going to it or coming out of it. If you have a multimeter, you can disconnect the harness and measure resistance at the solenoid itself across the two pins. I'd have to look up the spec to have an idea what a good range is but if its OL/Open, then its obviously shot. Could very well be the harness as well if you wanted to do some testing before you throw a part at it.

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I have not tested it yet. Is the wiring harness easy to access and remove?

 

If after replacing your solenoid and the light comes back on, you will need to replace your vvt hub. The exhaust cam hubs are notorious for going bad, excessive play.

The main thing is being religious about oil changes and using a high quality oil and filter. I have seen engines with this code that were so sludged that oil passage ways going to the solenoids And vvt hubs were clogged and we ended up replacing the engine. This was a severe case of lack of oil changes, clogged pcv,and super high miles

 

If after replacing your solenoid and the light comes back on, you will need to replace your vvt hub. The exhaust cam hubs are notorious for going bad, excessive play.

The main thing is being religious about oil changes and using a high quality oil and filter. I have seen engines with this code that were so sludged that oil passage ways going to the solenoids And vvt hubs were clogged and we ended up replacing the engine. This was a severe case of lack of oil changes, clogged pcv,and super high miles

VVT hub? Sounds expensive. I hope it's just the solenoid. I already had the PCV system replaced about two years ago.

 

The hub retails around 375, plus cost of timing belt kit,seals etc and labor.

But hopefully its just the solenoid and is the first thing you replace when seeing this fault.

Rarely do we see harness or ecu issues on these, unless a rodent made a meal of the wiring.

 

Ok. I pulled off the plastic cover and saw quite a bit of oil lying around (see the photo). Is this normal?

 

Nope. Had the same problem and it was the oil filler cap gasket

 

That should be an easy fix. Thanks.

 

UPDATE: I pulled out the solenoid and cleaned the hell out of it. I rigged up an impromptu wiring adapted with some speaker wire and tested it on a 12-volt, and it worked. It must have just been clogged.

FINAL QUESTION: Do I need to lubricate any of the parts with some engine oil before I put it back on? The piece in the photo below was covered in oil when I pulled it off, and the gasket also has oil on it.

 

Successful repair

UPDATE 2.0 (Photos to come)

I successfully completed this repair for about $4 and a few hours of easy labor. The solenoid just needed a good cleaning via a 30-minute bath in engine degreaser and some scrubbing with a toothbrush. I could not find a new gasket to purchase over the weekend, and I needed my car running, so I left the old one on. It seemed to be in decent shape anyway.

I didn't receive an answer about lubrication on the solenoid, so I added a light coat of oil to the small O-ring but left the rest of the valve dry. Figured it would have oil running through it once I turned the engine on anyway. Upon first crank, she purred beautifully without so much as a flicker or dim glow from the CEL, which has not appeared as of this writing and 300 additional miles of driving.

Also, as a small side upgrade, I replaced the factory hose clamps on the intercooler pipe with some easy-to-remove turn twist clamps. Whoever designed those godawful flat-head bolt clamps should receive a public flogging. I had to wrestle with that damn pipe so much that I inadvertently struck and broke off the plastic handle of the engine oil dipstick (another project for this weekend).

P.S. The $4 was for the can of degreaser. Nothing makes me feel more manlier than to spend a Saturday working on my engine whilst the neighbors are outside.

 

Pays to do a little figuring before throwing parts at it, huh? Glad you got it sorted. Lubricating the o-ring was correct as far as I know. I don't know any o-ring that shouldn't have some sort of lube or something on it before installation. Keep up with the oil changes and you should be good to go granted any of the other passages are free and clear.

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And thanks to everyone for helping me along the way!

 

I’m going to be trying this once I get a new gasket. Hope it works.


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I am just about to attempt the same thing, can I soak the entire part in brake cleaner?

 

Revive the dead thread! Just took my solenoid off and it had a bit of oil under it and on the gasket. Also the little screen thing was in a different place than the replacement gasket has it. I'm guessing the replacement is in the right place and the one I took off is weird.

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Did you use any gasket sealant or oil when installing the new gasket? if so how much and what side?

thanks

 

Results!!
After about a hundred miles and a few days no more c.e.l and everything is good. Gasket was 3 bucks from ipd plus a little bit of engine degreaser . Highly recommend!

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In this picture it looks to me the new gasket is missing an oil hole, compared to the original one

As for cleaning an old solenoid, it cannot be done. We can soak them, but this will not remove the varnish from the two small bushings that make the actuator slide. You can surely test it easily see if it works or not. This test must be done with a hot engine because the heat will cause the metal to expand and that's when the sliding pin inside gets stuck (or not).

 

I agree totally looks like it but that wasn't a hole on the old one just an oil stain that looks like a hole.

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With regard to the new gasket, for the VVT exhaust valve solenoid, it seems that the gasket design has been changed. The new gasket is likely good to go, and not defective. To get an explanation for this, you would have to speak with the engineer who modified the original design. If the car runs well, and the engine continues to run well, then the new gasket must be working OK. These gaskets are known to fail at about 200,000 miles, so it is a good thing to replace when the solenoid is removed and cleaned.

 

The easiest way is to test the solenoid with a hot engine - it may work fine when cold but the metal parts expand when hot and that's when they may get stuck

 

There was a P0027 on the car (2005 S60 2.5T AWD 152k miles at the time) I was working on and I tested each solenoid with a 9V battery. The exhaust solenoid was working very well (actuating quickly and the right distance). This exhaust solenoid was replaced before with one from PPS.

But, the exhaust solenoid gasket was leaking oil, so I think the mechanic who replaced it did not replace the gasket and this triggered a CEL for the solenoid due to the leak.

However, I replaced the gasket and it did not fix anything.

The intake solenoid was original volvo. When I tested it, it barely actuated at all and I could not hear any 'click'. There was also a lot of varnish inside of it. The conduits for the intake solenoid on the upper cylinder head were sludged with carbon. I cleaned off the carbon with a screwdriver.

I think the failing intake solenoid (from popr maintenance) caused the sludge buildup in the oil channels.

I tried to clean them both with brake cleaner (i did not soak them, just sprayed inside) and it did nothing and even made the car run worse.

I replaced both of them with genuine volvo and the CEL disappeared.