I detailed professionally for a few years, and I will tell you this much. There were cars that I had no problem putting water to the engine on, and there were cars I would NOT do that on.

I would NOT suggest wetting the engine at all. Your best bet is to use an all purpose type cleaner (i'm a BIG fan of sprayway 985 citrus crazy clean) and wipe it down by hand. Scrub brush can be used too but if you have to hit something a bit harder, I'd suggest nothing more powerful than a garden hose, and wrap the electronics with saran wrap prior to doing so.

 

... and wrap the electronics with saran wrap prior to doing so.

So what parts of the S60R do I need to cover in wrap before hosing it down after applying an all purpose cleaner?

 

You can use a degreaser and water, but sparingly and only in limited areas. If you avoid all the sensor connectors and harnesses that's your safest bet.

The problem occurs when you get water into the connectors that have lost their seals over time. When that occurs, corrosion and conductivity can wreak havoc on any modern engine.

 

Hmm...

Oops then.

I've always hosed mine down while covering just the filter.

 

what about a steamer? Never used one but I think I've seen/heard of using one to steam clean engine bay.

 

I think sea foam makes a degreaser/engine cleaner. I would try that out.

 

unless I'm mistaken, SeaFoam is to be used..INSIDE..the engine. I don't think they make an external engine cleaner.

 

I swear I saw a bottle of seafoam engine degreaser at Advanced Autos but it could have been there trans flush or another bottle.

 

I think you're thinking of the kind that cleans the inside of the engine, you actually put some into the crank case, some into the brake booster/vac line etc.

definitely NOT recommended for turbocharged vehicles.

 

You will all laugh. I clean my engine with a tooth brush and a rag, except for a little pitting on the aluminum, engine bay looks brand new.(at least the parts you can see)

 

I don't laugh, my engine has no leaks so I keep up on the minor spillage and seepage with rag and small brush just like you. Except for a lot of dust everywhere my engine is pretty damn clean.

 

For me, Simple Green (diluted 50:50 with water) applied liberally all over a dry, cool engine. Do not spray a hot engine. Be careful to not allow the Simple Green to dry and stay dried for more than a few minutes because it will begin etching into the finish (painted or plastic). I found out the hard way on my Yakima wind deflector. I tried to clean some bugs off with it and thought letting it soak would do the trick. Nope, it began etching the plastic. Now I have permanent marks that resemble water spots.

After spraying Simple Green everywhere and letting it work a little while, I take a detail brush (the kind usually used to wash wheels) to reach all the nooks and crannies and dislodge the dirt and grime. Working up the suds and bubbles helps too. Extra oily or greasy areas might require additional application(s)

After brushing the nooks and crannies, I rinse the engine with a garden hose with a gentle spray attachment. Avoid spark plugs areas if they are recessed and collect water.

After allowing the engine to dry a little, I apply liberal amounts of tire foam to the entire engine compartment. That's right - tire foam. I buy what ever is cheapest because I go through a lot of it. Ironically, I do not use tire foam for the tires. I use it for the engine and wheel wells.

Allow the tire foam to dry a while then begin wiping the excess away and wipe the areas as you see fit, particularly hoses and electrical wires. I prefer a satin black appearance to all the black plastic under the hood.

Here are a couple photos of before/after:

2006 Toyota RAV4 (40k miles) - for a friend

1998 Toyota Tacoma (160k miles) - for brother

1993 Lexus GS300 - my old one with 170k miles.

 

For me, Simple Green (diluted 50:50 with water) applied liberally all over a dry, cool engine. Do not spray a hot engine. Be careful to not allow the Simple Green to dry and stay dried for more than a few minutes because it will begin etching into the finish (painted or plastic). I found out the hard way on my Yakima wind deflector. I tried to clean some bugs off with it and thought letting it soak would do the trick. Nope, it began etching the plastic. Now I have permanent marks that resemble water spots.

After spraying Simple Green everywhere and letting it work a little while, I take a detail brush (the kind usually used to wash wheels) to reach all the nooks and crannies and dislodge the dirt and grime. Working up the suds and bubbles helps too. Extra oily or greasy areas might require additional application(s)

After brushing the nooks and crannies, I rinse the engine with a garden hose with a gentle spray attachment. Avoid spark plugs areas if they are recessed and collect water.

After allowing the engine to dry a little, I apply liberal amounts of tire foam to the entire engine compartment. That's right - tire foam. I buy what ever is cheapest because I go through a lot of it. Ironically, I do not use tire foam for the tires. I use it for the engine and wheel wells.

Allow the tire foam to dry a while then begin wiping the excess away and wipe the areas as you see fit, particularly hoses and electrical wires. I prefer a satin black appearance to all the black plastic under the hood.

Here are a couple photos of before/after:

2006 Toyota RAV4 (40k miles) - for a friend

1998 Toyota Tacoma (160k miles) - for brother

1993 Lexus GS300 - my old one with 170k miles.

That looks absolutely awesome. I'm probably going to try it

 

I guess I did not answer your original questions about professional cleanings. I do not know. I have never paid someone to clean my car. It is one of my hobbies, so I thoroughly enjoy doing it myself. It is nothing for me to spend 8-12 hours doing a quickie detail job on the outside or inside of my car.

I have heard that steam cleaning works well and have often considered buying the equipment, but I am sure that would be rather expensive.

 

just buy a case of brake clean and go to town

 

Just cleaned my brothers 06 S60 2.5T with a bottle of Grease Lightning All Purpose cleaned mixed 50/50 with water and then to finish it off the tire foam, came out well; I also, cleaned my girlfriends 14yr old Eclipse using the same method and it was like night and day. When cleaning my brothers engine, I only covered the intake and alternator....No Issues!

 

Simple Green diluted to 50/50 and water. I don't think you have to be scared to wash your engine bay with water. I was with my old 240 and the distributer. Blew that cap a couple times. Also, using a air compressor to get the excess water out of the nooks and crannies is a good idea too. I'm not a fan of the greasy engine bay look, so I pass on the tire jiz stuff.

 

Also, Griots makes a really good engine bay detailing spray. I clean the engine with either their engine cleaner or Krud Kutter, then spray the detailing spray and get spectacular results, FWIW

 

Griot's Garage catalog is the envy of auto enthusiasts. So many tools, so little money.

Do you have any photos of your engine bay?

 

If you want to save some time, money, and don't like the super shiny look of tire dressing try this:

Go buy yourself some (2-4 cans depending on level of dirt) "Scrubbing Bubbles" brand multi purpose cleaner at your grocery store. Let your engine cool down a bit. Spray a very fine mist of water on all dirty areas of engine compartment. Now shake up those cans and spray LIBERALLY on everything dirty. Now let the foam sit there for a while (3-5 mins). Now repeat misty water treatment. Foam again as/where required.

This works, trust me. I won Best of Show at the Puget Sound BMW Concours D'Elegance using this process.

 

...Go buy yourself some (2-4 cans depending on level of dirt) "Scrubbing Bubbles" brand multi purpose cleaner at your grocery store....

Which one of the Scrubbing Bubbles do you use? There are many different ones.

http://www.scrubbingbubbles.com/Products/Pages/default.aspx

 

I use pretty much the same as redalrt subsituting the tire foam for WD-40 or similar. Gives a clean look, not as shiny and provides a layer of protection from water as well as dust and oil has a hard time sticking to the coating left from the WD-40.

 

Some great and some less great advice in this thread.

Having spent too much time in my life hanging around car detailing guys and doing a decent amount myself (but never professionally), here are my thoghts:

1. Never use high pressure washers. Some pros do becasue it's fast, but you really neeed to know what you are doing.

2. Never clean on a running engine. Actually, many remove the ground connector to avoid any random electrical shorts.

3. Cover as many connectors as you see fit, for most cars you don't have to cover anything.

4. Spray degreaser (Simple green diluted is just fine) on a warm, not hot engine. Having the engine warm allows for easier removal of stubborn oil and grase deposits. The best way is to have the car cool off before cleaning since if you start it to warm up, you will have a hot exhaust etc before block is warmed up. If you are uncertain about this, leave it cool, many degreasers leave nasty stains if burned off.

5. Use brush to clean small areas.

6. Rinse using normal hose, pref on "soft" or "shower" setting. Be smart - don't aim directly at connectors, fuses, or alternator.

7. If you have access to air - use it to blow things dry. Same thing - be smart and do not aim right at connectors etc since you may actually force water into sensitive areas.

8. Reconnect ground, start engine and let it warm up to evaporate any remaining water.

9. Good advice above - certain cars with recessed spark plugs can be challenging. Audi and VW are famous for faulty ignition coils where the O-rings don't seal well and you get standing water in the recesses. Poff - 4, 6, or 8 new coils may be needed for every engine clean. If you can - always cover and/or blow dry.

10. Apply engine dressing of yuor choice. Looks pretty but not really neccessary.

10. When you are ready to join the real geeks - go to Autopia.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/80226-engine-cleaning-detailing.html

 

Having spent too much time in my life hanging around car detailing guys and doing a decent amount myself (but never professionally), here are my thoghts:

1. Never use high pressure washers. Some pros do becasue it's fast, but you really neeed to know what you are doing.

2. Never clean on a running engine. Actually, many remove the ground connector to avoid any random electrical shorts.

3. Cover as many connectors as you see fit, for most cars you don't have to cover anything.

4. Spray degreaser (Simple green diluted is just fine) on a warm, not hot engine. Having the engine warm allows for easier removal of stubborn oil and grase deposits. The best way is to have the car cool off before cleaning since if you start it to warm up, you will have a hot exhaust etc before block is warmed up. If you are uncertain about this, leave it cool, many degreasers leave nasty stains if burned off.

5. Use brush to clean small areas.

6. Rinse using normal hose, pref on "soft" or "shower" setting. Be smart - don't aim directly at connectors, fuses, or alternator.

7. If you have access to air - use it to blow things dry. Same thing - be smart and do not aim right at connectors etc since you may actually force water into sensitive areas.

8. Reconnect ground, start engine and let it warm up to evaporate any remaining water.

9. Good advice above - certain cars with recessed spark plugs can be challenging. Audi and VW are famous for faulty ignition coils where the O-rings don't seal well and you get standing water in the recesses. Poff - 4, 6, or 8 new coils may be needed for every engine clean. If you can - always cover and/or blow dry.

10. Apply engine dressing of yuor choice. Looks pretty but not really neccessary.

10. When you are ready to join the real geeks - go to Autopia.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/80226-engine-cleaning-detailing.html

I detailed professionally for a couple years so I'll offer my insight to clarify a bit here:

1.) You are partially right here. On certain cars I wouldn't do it. I'd never use the heat function on a pressure washer when cleaning an engine. As long as the major components (alternator, intakes, exposed connectors, battery terminals etc.) are covered properly, or you can find a way to spray away from them, you should be fine.

2.) I disagree here. I have seen more electrical/starting issues when people clean an engine using water when it's OFF than when the engine is running. I agree it shouldn't already be hot; I typically let the car cool down (hood open with a fan) for a while before cleaning the engine. Not completely, to avoid the hot exhaust before engine like you said, but I always start the car before I start cleaning. 2 reasons, if the engine is already running, and you hit something with the water that you shouldn't and the engine shuts off, you know exactly where to troubleshoot. And the second, because once you're done cleaning you can close the hood and leave the engine running, to allow the engine and exhaust heat to help dry off the components.

3.) Agree here, except on the volvos. You should most definitely cover anything that looks electrical and could be water damaged.

4.) Simple green is good. Greased lightning, P21S APC (more expensive) is also good. The best I have come across thus far is Sprayway 985 Citrus Crazy Clean. Originally designed to degrease industrial machinery, the stuff is just great for degreasing and cleaning engines. Ironically, since it's based on orange oils and no harsh chemicals, I also use it to clean interiors because it leaves a really nice orangey smell behind and is great for delicate leather (atacama or nordkap) and plastics/vinyls.

5.) Brush is a good idea in most cases. I'd recommend a rag more often if you can get your hand in there, and no stiff wire brushes.

6.) Agreed here, though a pressure washer on a low setting with a high angle end (meaning don't go for the 5*, it'll take the paint off your engine bay. Go for a 20* or 35* if possible) and no heat works best on stubborn stuff.

7.) Agreed here, not only in the engine bay but on the exterior too. Nothing worse than phantom drip lines from the side view mirrors or rub strips, or door handles on a freshly waxed car.

8.) Don't necessarily NEED to disconnect ground. As I said above, I'd prefer to clean the engine while running.

9.) as silly as it sounds, I'd pull the coil cover on our R cars, and lay a few pieces of electrical tape over a piece of paper towel, then replace the cover. That'd prevent that from happening. Or, clean that area just separately.

10.) Engine dressing is OK, the tire shine method works as well, but I personally think the greasy shiny engine bay looks like crapola. I'd rather have just the clean, fresh looking plastics. A thin layer of dressing won't add too much shine. Apply it, then let it sit for a few minutes, then buff with a microfiber. Works every time.

In closing, autopia is the ****. Not just for the forum, but because they sell the good ****. Also check out Rightlook.com and SparkleAuto.com for products.

 

I think some of you worry about the water too much. It's an engine bay, it's designed to handle getting wet. I wouldn't take a pressure washer directly to electrical connections but applying a cleaner then rinsing it all off with a hose has never caused me problems.
I like the tip about using tire cleaner, I will have to try that next time. I usually just use simple green.

 

Don't do shoot the garden hose into the engine bay. I learned the hard way. I had been doing that for years with no real issue but two years ago it caught up with me. I was prepping my 1995 850 for my kids to start using as a daily driver. I told them to always keep the car clean including the engine. I apparently was a little too aggressive and the older engine gave me issues. A small crack in the distributer cap nailed me as well as wet plugs. I had to have the car towed since I couldn't diagnose in my driveway the cap was bad. A $300 dealer lesson for what became an unexpected tune up.

I've been told using a garden sprayer to give a fine mist to sections of the engine as you degrease is a good option. I also had a nasty black mark on the intercooler tube running over the engine and a friend hit the stain with carb cleaner. If you are really anal, carb cleaner should get most of the stubborn spots the degreaser missed. I'm also a Griots fan (expensive but the work and are guaranteed if you don't like) and use their vinyl and rubber protector to give some protection to the plastic and rubber parts under the hood while not getting a shiny greasy look under the hood. Good luck with the detailing project.

 

Can anyone provide a picture of the R engine bay where it is marked out what parts or areas I should avoid getting wet or even not spray with any type of cleaner etc?

 

I have never masked anything in my engine compartment. I just use the shower setting on my garden hose. No high pressure washer.

 

Another before/after shot.

2004 Nissan Quest

 

Has anyone ever tried wd40? I mean it displaces water, lubricates, offers rust protection, and displaces grease. So it sounds like the ideal product to use on the outside of an engine and not have to worry about it coming into contact with any electronics. Just my two cents or is this just a terrible idea?

 

Did it myself with simple green all purpose cleaner spray bottle, and a magic eraser. It works wonders.

 

I clean my engine a couple of times per year, nice to have it fresh and clean. Nothing to worry about, just dont spray high pressure water at electrical stuff. Washed a 850 T5 once, that car didnt like it at all. The spark holes got filled with water so it didnt even start, just blow the water away and it started directly.

 

I only wash the engine when it is running.

 

i would take it to a good detailer. would cost anywhere from 50 to 100 bucks. the place i work at charges $69. I've always used a pressure washer on my engine bay. i turn the engine on, rinse it down from 3 angles to make sure i got everything. turn off the engine so the fan doesn't spray degreaser in your face. i spray auto magic red hot on it, scrub with a soft wheel brush. turn the engine on, rinse down again. then air gun the puddles, and dress with andy water based dressing. no wipe down, just let it dry. i haven't had any problems before, i just don't spray directly at electrical connections