Re: Dyno result - HELP! (Brzoza)

200hp to wheels is pretty good for a GT T5. That's 19% loss. But dyno results are not absolute, you can mainly compare before/after in the same dyno reliably. I don't see the torque going down and up again in these graphs, just a cross over hp/torque.

 

Its not even 200. More like ~195whp.
Yes You are right I looked at the sheet wrong way. Torque curve going down which makes this case even worst Why it is dropping after 4.5k rpm?

 

Re: (Brzoza)

195-200, not much difference. I've read that peak whp for the 247hp T5 is typically in the 170-180 neighborhood. T5 power is extremely dependent on temperature, and the correction factor the operator applied is not necessarily correct for this car. Oh and don't forget the crappy California 91 octane gasoline. 195whp starts looking really good.

The car starts running out of breath at higher revs. There's good thread about that in the R-Forum today.

Chipping will do wonders to those curves.

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

Its not even 200. More like ~195whp. Yes You are right I looked at the sheet wrong way. Torque curve going down which makes this case even worst Why it is dropping after 4.5k rpm?

Airflow in front of the car is absolutely critical. If the intercooler starts to "heat-soak" due to poor airflow, intake air temperatures will increase more than what the car will normally get on a road. The ECU will compensate to prevent detonation / pinging, and you get a nasty dyno chart. Just how "crappy" were the fans?

I wouldn't get too caught up with what your hp/tq numbers are without anything to compare it against. When you decide to go again to the dyno after the RICA tune, make sure you go to the same dyno and to try to keep the environmental variables (temp, humidity, etc) constant, so you can do a good comparison "stock" to "tuned".

We recently had a customer do a stock / RICA dyno session (on the same dyno), with improvements of 30 wheel horsepower / and 61lb-ft of wheel torque! http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

 

Hi George!
Still waiting before I will order tune from You

Remember? Torque limiter deleted, rev limiter and speed limiter deleted - Can U do that for me?

Anyway maybe I will go to different dyno if I can find one.
Crappy fan - bearly spinning fan; after 3rd pull they try to cool off my IC by spraying water on it, but it doesnt helped.

 

91 Octane/now airflow in front of the car/outside ambient temps in the 70s - yeah... that dyno looks about right.

 

Re: (Bender)

There is nothing wrong with your torque, it's dropping off at the high RPMs after the turbo is no longer effective.

Compare your graph to the "ideal" powertrain behavior: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/te...3.pdf

Your engine is on the 2nd page, B5234T3.

It's 2003 data, but i imagine not much changed in terms of powertrain between 2001 and 2003.

 

The Torque curve dropping too soon. In graph LoveMyS60 showed curve is dropping after 5.5k rpm not 4.5k rpm. Thats big difference. Does the turbo might be dying?

 

Re: Dyno result - HELP! (Mika)

Quote, originally posted by Mika »

200hp to wheels is pretty good for a GT T5. That's 19% loss. But dyno results are not absolute, you can mainly compare before/after in the same dyno reliably. I don't see the torque going down and up again in these graphs, just a cross over hp/torque.

exactly!http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

i don't know what you were expecting, but those numbers seem right on track.

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

The Torque curve dropping too soon. In graph LoveMyS60 showed curve is dropping after 5.5k rpm not 4.5k rpm. Thats big difference. Does the turbo might be dying?

"does the turbo might be dying?"

anyway...no, as George said, the ECU will retard the timing as well as pull back boost based on a variety of parameters, and the first and foremost being detonation, which is caused primarily by high intake temps. That is why a super-ultra-mega-high flow dyno fan is a MUST...especially for turbo cars where you double the intake temperature (Kelvin) for every atmosphere of boost.

Don't be upset with your numbers...and don't worry, your turbo doesn't might be dying

Modified by phuz at 12:33 PM 10-16-2007

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

The Torque curve dropping too soon. In graph LoveMyS60 showed curve is dropping after 5.5k rpm not 4.5k rpm. Thats big difference. Does the turbo might be dying?

dont have the idea like honda owners...more rpms, more power, sometimes our cars are mor effective at low rpms.

For example my car with BSR stage 3 has best power 278 whp at 4700 rpms and 328 lb torque at 4500 rpms so that show me that i need to make the shift at that point or i will lose power. But never means that my turbo is dying.

With BSR stage I i got like 246 whp, so i guess your stock # are fine, wait the dyno with the remap and compare how much horse power do you make.

 

Thanks Guys for keeping my hopes higher. Hope everything is fine with my car. Im just little pissed that I spend $100 for dyno and didnt get what I should -good fan, and employes who know what to do.
I need find other "pro" dyno shop and checked # again.
I dont think I will get close to Your stage 1 # volvo60t5. 246 is really a lot. But You have MT. Ill be happy with 230whp with intake and cat-back exhaust.

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Whether you get close to volvot5x or not does not mean anything. Different dynos, different ambient conditions. What matters is the difference to your baseline. When you get your soft loader you can run stock and tuned versions the same day in same conditions. Mind that the ECU takes a while to adapt and get the best performance out of it both going from stock to to tuned and from tuned to stock, at least mine does with BSR.

then get some race fuel and/or Aquamist and smoke your tires to shreds http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

Thanks Guys for keeping my hopes higher. Hope everything is fine with my car. Im just little pissed that I spend $100 for dyno and didnt get what I should -good fan, and employes who know what to do. I need find other "pro" dyno shop and checked # again. I dont think I will get close to Your stage 1 # volvo60t5. 246 is really a lot. But You have MT. Ill be happy with 230whp with intake and cat-back exhaust.

No idea if it's convenient, but this is the absolute best public dyno available in California, IMO:

http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/site/main.htm

And my favorite sentence:
"The MAHA approved custom built,"AIR 8" fan on the AMS MAHA dyno, flows over 80,000 CFM (cubic feet/minute) or a road speed of 60-70 MPH!"

http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

 

Re: (Mika)

Quote, originally posted by Mika »

Different dynos, different ambient conditions. What matters is the difference to your baseline.

i agree with that, and my dyno numbers was with normal gas and crappy fan, im saving money to make the dyno run with 100 gas and really good fan...i think will be a little different hps!!

 

Damn You are lucky to have MT...
Im just praying I will not shred my trans...

THX George, I did found few others as well. Il check them when I will have time!

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

Damn You are lucky to have MT... Im just praying I will not shred my trans...

yeah, i was checking like 7 months every day autotrade, ebay, yahoo for manual T5, when i saw it on internet, called the seller and take a airplane next day to pay the car(it was like 500 miles fro my town), then drove back to my home!!

 

Re:

the T5 engine with 2.3 liters and a 16T turbo, generates its maximum power 247 bhp ( 250 PS ) @ 5200 rpms and maximum torque 243 lbs.ft @ 2400 rpms. it is only natural that your torque curve starts falling after 4500 rpms.

this is not a high-rev engine. and the 16T is quite a small turbocharger, losing its breath above 5k rpms.

between 195 whp and 205 whp is about the right range for a geartronic T5. had your car been a manual, you would have seen some number between 207 and 217 whp.

for your info, with a 3"dp + full exhaust + RICA PPC, my T5 GT has put down between 247 and 252 whp on various dyno pulls. If it had been a manual, that'd probably be more like 260-265 whp.

 

Re: Re: (Serdar-S60T5)

Quote, originally posted by Serdar-S60T5 »

the T5 engine with 2.3 liters and a 16T turbo, generates its maximum power 247 bhp ( 250 PS ) @ 5200 rpms and maximum torque 243 lbs.ft @ 2400 rpms. it is only natural that your torque curve starts falling after 4500 rpms. this is not a high-rev engine. and the 16T is quite a small turbocharger, losing its breath above 5k rpms. between 195 whp and 205 whp is about the right range for a geartronic T5. had your car been a manual, you would have seen some number between 207 and 217 whp. for your info, with a 3"dp + full exhaust + RICA PPC, my T5 GT has put down between 247 and 252 whp on various dyno pulls. If it had been a manual, that'd probably be more like 260-265 whp.

or maybe 278 whp

 

Sedar how Your trans doing with that much power and torque? Still shifting fine?
Im planning run almost the same set up as You but without DP cause is way to expensive.
(Rica/EST Intake/EST cat back)

 

Re: Re: (volvos60t5x)

Quote, originally posted by volvos60t5x »

or maybe 278 whp

haha

ok but that's only for factory-freak powerful T5s my friend.
my assumption was only for regular T5s.

or you could blame it on the lack of a cold air intake on my car and/or the non-load type of crappy dynos in Turkey.

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

Sedar how Your trans doing with that much power and torque? Still shifting fine? Im planning run almost the same set up as You but without DP cause is way to expensive. (Rica/EST Intake/EST cat back)

hey...
actually my transmission is doing fine for now, generally speaking, although it does tend to show some signs of distress lately (like very slight slippage or hesitation to shift up) when i push the car too hard in low gears.
I mean like when i push it into redline in 2nd gear in geartronic mode, and then shift up to 3rd, it feels like it hesitates for a very short moment to shift into 3rd, and then it takes another split second to "lock" in 3rd gear and pick up from there. but this only happens from 2nd to 3rd. other than that everything is fine for now. (62K miles on the clock)
however, if you're planning to do an ECU upgrade, and need to choose between a catback and a downpipe for financial reasons, i would definitely choose a 3" dp over a catback any day.
the downpipe is essential for your turbo, especially when you're pressing it hard with an aggressive software, boosting around 10 psi more than stock.

 

Sedar,
I had the same problem (my car has 104k right now). Miss-shifting from 2 to 3rd gear but only under full load/throttle. My mechanic couldnt fix this, so I went to the dealership. I was waiting 4 hours - and they said they checked everything and trans is fine. The test drive for 30 miles! and trans is shifting fine. I was pissed cause I was waiting to many hours and still they didnt fixed and didnt even find anything wrond. I did take my car, drove back home and You know what? My trans is fine!!! No more miss-shifting or anything like that! I dont know what happend but since then I put over 10k and no problems at all. Only thing is when trans is cold ( in the mornings) insted shifting from 2 to 3rd gear in low rpm ( when driving slow) it shifts at 3000rpm. It does that 2 times (exactly!!) and then is shifting normally. Strange but i thing valve body needs to be changed or smth.

 

Re: (Brzoza)

in the morning???, its the valve body usually the 2 and 3 gear are the ones with problems.

 

In the morning cause car is cold. Im drivnig during the day so trans is all the time hot/warm so it is shifting fine.
Yes It might be valve body but to fix it it will cost me probably over $1000

 

Re: (Brzoza)

Quote, originally posted by Brzoza »

In the morning cause car is cold. Im drivnig during the day so trans is all the time hot/warm so it is shifting fine. Yes It might be valve body but to fix it it will cost me probably over $1000

thats correct but if you dont do that you will kill your tranny soon and it will cost you $4500 not $1000.