Unfortunately most Volvo shops rarely see our C70s since they are now over 10 years old and somewhat rare. So it's not surprising that they don't know how to fix them when the roof had problems.

$500 is ridiculous with no solution.

Post more info on the problem and what exactly is happening, and someone here may be able to help.



Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk

 

Unfortunately most Volvo shops rarely see our C70s since they are now over 10 years old and somewhat rare. So it's not surprising that they don't know how to fix them when the roof had problems.

$500 is ridiculous with no solution.

Post more info on the problem and what exactly is happening, and someone here may be able to help.



Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk

Thanks, Rapid Rabbit. My 2008 C70 has 61K miles. Runs great. I stopped closing the roof mid-way to let a passenger out of the back seat. When I tried to continue, the roof would not budge. Using a video from "Top Hydraulics" and two friends, I was able to close the lid manually by removing the back seat and pulling a cable that released the roof hydraulics.

Unfortunately, a loud alarm sounded while driving that the roof was malfunctioning. A few area mechanics told me they would not service a convertible roof. Too complicated. So I was forced to take it to the local Volvo dealership.
They were able to deactivate/disconnect the alarm. The car was now drivable, but the roof would not work, and it was a "possible hydraulic or electrical issue." They said that by deactivating the alarm, they could not guarantee that the airbags or other safety devices would work.

I looked at the Hydraulic pump under a panel in the trunk. It is completely filled with fluid.

That's all I know. Happy to investigate further if anyone has questions (Or suggestions.)

 

After a roof malfunction on my 2008 C70, my dealership told me the problem was either electrical or hydraulic and charged me $500 for that assessment. They estimated $8K to fix. And they offered me $1K for the vehicle as-is.

Is it expected that they could not isolate and confirm the issue?

Any advice on how to proceed with repairing it myself? (I will have help from a mechanic friend, but I want to be a bit more educated as I proceed. Thanks.)

After charging $500 just to tell you they don't really know what the problem is, I wouldn't put a foot in that dealership ever again.

While what @RapidRabbit says is completely true about these cars being rarely seen at dealers or even independent shops for other things than the usual basic repairs/manteinance (oil change, brakes, suspension, etc). The official diagnostics software has detailed instructions to troubleshoot most of the problems the car may have, and they're detailed to the point that can guide a regular joe with common sense and some DIY skills to solve the issue.

I think their interest wasn't to fix the problem rather than charge their fee and get you out the door as soon as possible.

If they came up with the offer to buy the car for $1k, that's adding insult to injury.

What I've read so far about roof failures, is that most of the time is an electrical problem. Specifically, a broken/frayed wire of a sensor due to the movements of the roof mechanism. Also, I've seen a few posts about hydraulic failures, leaky lines. But most of the times is electrical.

If you want to troubleshoot the problem yourself, you'll need to use VIDA to pull the error codes and check the status of all sensors. Otherwise, it will be like throwing 'darts in the dark.
The roof has a sequence that needs to happen in order to open/close, one single thing goes out of sequence and you'll get the roof malfunction error.

 

After charging $500 just to tell you they don't really know what the problem is, I wouldn't put a foot in that dealership ever again.

While what @RapidRabbit says is completely true about these cars being rarely seen at dealers or even independent shops for other things than the usual basic repairs/manteinance (oil change, brakes, suspension, etc). The official diagnostics software has detailed instructions to troubleshoot most of the problems the car may have, and they're detailed to the point that can guide a regular joe with common sense and some DIY skills to solve the issue.

I think their interest wasn't to fix the problem rather than charge their fee and get you out the door as soon as possible.

If they came up with the offer to buy the car for $1k, that's adding insult to injury.

What I've read so far about roof failures, is that most of the time is an electrical problem. Specifically, a broken/frayed wire of a sensor due to the movements of the roof mechanism. Also, I've seen a few posts about hydraulic failures, leaky lines. But most of the times is electrical.

If you want to troubleshoot the problem yourself, you'll need to use VIDA to pull the error codes and check the status of all sensors. Otherwise, it will be like throwing 'darts in the dark.
The roof has a sequence that needs to happen in order to open/close, one single thing goes out of sequence and you'll get the roof malfunction error.

Thanks. So where do I start? Where can I buy a replacement electrical system for the roof of a 2008 Volvo C70? Do you have any distributors or websites you'd recommend? Thanks!

 

Did you reset the valve at the hydraulic pump after pulling the pressure relief wire? otherwise the pump will not be able to actuate the roof.

You always complete the cycle, never interrupt it midway. And if you have to, and the roof malfunction error shows up, just press and hold the open/close for 30-45 seconds, then the pump will restart and continue the cycle.

 

Well I have interrupted my top midway to lubricate it. Is that bad? I never had a problem restarting it. This is on a 2011. But now I am concerned about doing that.

 

No, because that's part of the maintenance procedure. But don't do it just because you're bored.

I said to not interrupt the cycle, because it minimizes the chances of the "ROOF MALFUNCTION" error showing up in the dashboard and scaring the crap out of the owners, that don't know about pressing and hold the roof button will resume the cycle even with the error in the dash and will clear once completed the cycle. Leaving people in OP's situation.

That error most of the time is because the trunk lid falls or the roof moves slightly out of position and throws off the sequence. Pressing and holding the buttons, forces the roof module to restart the sequence.

Always operate the roof when the car is stopped, on a flat surface and there's no heavy wind that puts stress in the hydraulics.

I'm not fond of the SmartTop module function that lets you open it while the car is in movement. To me, that's asking for trouble.

 

No, because that's part of the maintenance procedure. But don't do it just because you're bored.

I said to not interrupt the cycle, because it minimizes the chances of the "ROOF MALFUNCTION" error showing up in the dashboard and scaring the crap out of the owners, that don't know about pressing and hold the roof button will resume the cycle even with the error in the dash and will clear once completed the cycle. Leaving people in OP's situation.

That error most of the time is because the trunk lid falls or the roof moves slightly out of position and throws off the sequence. Pressing and holding the buttons, forces the roof module to restart the sequence.

Always operate the roof when the car is stopped, on a flat surface and there's no heavy wind that puts stress in the hydraulics.

I'm not fond of the SmartTop module function that lets you open it while the car is in movement. To me, that's asking for trouble.

Thanks for the clarification.
I can think of better things to do when I'm bored!

 

I have stopped many roof tops at any position in its travel and never had a problem. The top is closed, never use it again or get VIDA or a higher end OBd tool to read any codes. Tops are not that easy to diagnose and repair. I have seen more sensor codes in the 1st pic at #16 location, fail. You need to remove the back seat and all panels on that side to reach down into a small hole to solder in a new sensor. Ther roof is closed, working in the dark and a very cramped rear seat area. The sensor wires would rub thru, break or short out. I posted the parts pic #19 sensor just to show some of the sensor locations. Also, I listed to roof sensor locations, names and codes. All of the above post are all valid. If going to the dealer, ask lots of questions. Who will work on the car, how many years of experience do they have and the #1 question, does the tech have experience working on the C70 roof top. You do not want to have to pay to train dealership employees. If possible, get the roof top code(s) and post here. We have had 2 hyd pumps fail. 1 customer did not want to pay to replace the pump and possibly have other issues. The 2nd customer ordered/paid for a used hyd pump. The used hyd pump did not work. Now the customer was mad at us, that we were the bad guy. The customer finally paid us labor but left very unhappy. We stopped installing any used parts on any Volvo.

Sensor locations

Pos Sensor type Location Purpose
1 Hall sensor On the contact plate, left-hand side. Make sure that the left side of the front roof part is connected with the frame around the windshield.
2 Position sensors By the link system for the roof's central section, left-hand side. To provide the correct position information to the link system for the roof's central section.
3 Hall sensor By the link system for the cargo compartment function, left-hand side. Ensure that the cargo compartment is completely open before the sequence continues to the position for load assistance.
5 Hall sensor On the contact plate, right-hand side. Make sure that the right side of the front roof part is connected with the frame around the windshield.
6 Hall sensor By the spring bolt for the roof, left, rear. Ensure that the rear left spring bolt is closed before everything is OK.
7 Hall sensor On the frame around the cargo compartment, left-hand side. Ensure that the spring bolt on the left-hand side of the cargo compartment is locked before everything is OK.
9 Hall sensor By the link system for the cargo compartment, left-hand side. Ensure that the cargo compartment is closed before the roof starts to move.
10 Hall sensor On the limit position for the divider in the cargo compartment. Ensure that the divider in the cargo compartment is closed before the roof can be opened.
11 Hall sensor By the link system for the cover plate, left-hand side. To determine the limit position for the cover plate when it is drawn in.
12 Hall sensor By the link system for the cover plate, left-hand side. To determine the limit position for the cover plate when it is extended.
13 Hall sensor By the cargo compartment's frame contact plate, left-hand side. Ensure that the cargo compartment is closed before the spring bolts are locked.
15 Hall sensor By the body spring bolt, left-hand side. Ensure that the spring bolt is closed before everything is OK.
16 Hall sensor By the body spring bolt, left-hand side. Ensure that the body spring bolt is open before everything is OK.
17 Position sensors By the link system for the front roof section, left-hand side. To provide the correct position information to the link system for the roof's central section.
18 Hall sensor By the front spring bolt on the front roof section. Ensure that the spring bolt for the front roof section is open before everything is OK.
19 Hall sensor By the area for the locking system, left-hand side. Ensure that the locking system is closed before everything is OK.




Roof codes.
836 roof hatch
CRM-1011 Pushbutton Open Roof. Stuck in active position
CRM-1021 Pushbutton Close Roof. Stuck in active position
CRM-1031 Pushbutton Load Aid. Stuck in active position
CRM-2011 Hydraulic pump. Temperature sensor error
CRM-2021 Position encoder 17, front roof. Shorted to supply
CRM-2022 Position encoder 17, front roof. Ground (GND) short
CRM-2023 Position encoder 17, front roof. Invalid position
CRM-2024 Position encoder 17 (PE_FR). Activation timeout
CRM-2031 Hall sensor 5. Shorted to supply
CRM-2032 Hall sensor 5. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2033 Hall sensor 5. Invalid combination
CRM-2034 Hallsensor 5 (SL_FR_CR). Activation timeout
CRM-2041 Hall sensor 19. Shorted to supply
CRM-2042 Hall sensor 19. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2043 Hall sensor 19. Invalid combination
CRM-2044 Hallsensor 19 (SL_FR_C). Activation timeout
CRM-2051 Hall sensor 15. Shorted to supply
CRM-2052 Hall sensor 15. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2053 Hall sensor 15. Invalid combination
CRM-2054 Hallsensor 15 (SL_BIW_C). Activation timeout
CRM-2061 Position encoder 2, rear roof. Shorted to supply
CRM-2062 Position encoder 2, rear roof. Ground (GND) short
CRM-2063 Position encoder 2, rear roof. Invalid position
CRM-2064 Position encoder 2, rear roof. Activation timeout
CRM-2071 Hall sensor 6. Shorted to supply
CRM-2072 Hall sensor 6. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2073 Hall sensor 6. Invalid combination
CRM-2074 Hallsensor 6 (SL_RR_CL). Activation timeout
CRM-2081 Hall sensor 11. Shorted to supply
CRM-2082 Hall sensor 11. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2083 Hall sensor 11. Invalid combination
CRM-2084 Hallsensor 11 (SP_TC_R). Activation timeout
CRM-2091 Hall sensor 7. Shorted to supply
CRM-2092 Hall sensor 7. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2093 Hall sensor 7. Invalid combination
CRM-2094 Hallsensor 7 (SL_TL_CL). Activation timeout
CRM-20A1 Hall sensor 1. Shorted to supply
CRM-20A2 Hall sensor 1. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-20A3 Hall sensor 1. Invalid combination
CRM-20A4 Hallsensor 1 (SL_FR_CL). Activation timeout
CRM-20B1 Hall sensor 3. Shorted to supply
CRM-20B2 Hall sensor 3. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-20B3 Hall sensor 3. Invalid combination
CRM-20B4 Hallsensor 3 (SP_BL_FO). Activation timeout
CRM-20C1 Hall sensor 18. Shorted to supply
CRM-20C2 Hall sensor 18. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-20C3 Hall sensor 18. Invalid combination
CRM-20C4 Hallsensor 18 (SL_FR_0). Activation timeout
CRM-20D1 Hall sensor 13. Shorted to supply
CRM-20D2 Hall sensor 13. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-20D3 Hall sensor 13. Invalid combination
CRM-20D4 Hallsensor 13 (SD_TL_C). Activation timeout
CRM-20E1 Hall sensor 16. Shorted to supply
CRM-20E2 Hall sensor 16. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-20E3 Hall sensor 16. Invalid combination
CRM-20E4 Hallsensor 16 (SL_BIW_0). Activation timeout
CRM-20F1 Hall sensor 10. Shorted to supply
CRM-20F2 Hall sensor 10. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-20F3 Hall sensor 10. Invalid combination
CRM-2101 Hall sensor 9. Shorted to supply
CRM-2102 Hall sensor 9. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2103 Hall sensor 9. Invalid combination
CRM-2104 Hallsensor 9 (SD_TL_O). Activation timeout
CRM-2111 Hall sensor 12. Shorted to supply
CRM-2112 Hall sensor 12. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error
CRM-2113 Hall sensor 12. Invalid combination
CRM-2114 Hallsensor 12 (SP_TC_E). Activation timeout
CRM-3011 Open calibration not performed
CRM-3012 Closed calibration not performed
CRM-4011 Implausible sensor state 9 (SL_TL_O) and 13 (SL_TL_C)
CRM-4012 Implausible sensor state 16 (SL_BIW_O) and hallsensor 15 (SL_BIW_C)
CRM-4013 Implausible sensor state 11 (SP_TC_R) and 12 (SP_TC_E)
CRM-4014 Implausible sensor state 18 (SL_FR_O) and 19 (SL_RL_C)
CRM-4015 Implausible sensor state 18 (SL_FR_O) and 5 (SL_FR_C)
CRM-4016 Implausible sensor state 18 (SL_FR_O) and 1 (SL_TL_CL)
CRM-4017 Implausible sensor state 6 (SL_RR_CL) and 17 (PE_FR)
CRM-4018 Implausible sensor state 2 (PE_MR) and 17 (PE_FR)
CRM-6011 Valve 1. Signal too high/signal too low
CRM-6021 Valve 2. Signal too high/signal too low
CRM-6031 Valve 3. Signal too high/signal too low
CRM-6041 Valve 4. Signal too high/signal too low
CRM-6051 Antenna output. Shorted to supply
CRM-6052 Antenna output. Ground (GND) short
CRM-C011 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C012 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C021 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C022 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C031 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C032 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C042 Control module. Internal fault
CRM-C051 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C052 Hydraulic pump. Supply voltage too low
CRM-C053 Hydraulic pump. Signal missing
CRM-C061 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C062 Convertible Roof Module (CRM). Internal fault
CRM-C071 Control module. Relays defect
CRM-C072 Catch motor. Motor blocked
CRM-C073 Control module. Relays defect
CRM-C100 Control module, memory fault. Internal fault
CRM-E001 Control module communication. Faulty communication
CRM-E003 Configuration fault. Faulty configuration
CRM-E010 Power supply. Signal too low
85 Interior

 

3 Hall sensor By the link system for the cargo compartment function, left-hand side. Ensure that the cargo compartment is completely open before the sequence continues to the position for load assistance.

@volvogod can you explain "cargo compartment is completely open before sequence continues to the position for laod assistance" ?

I've had 'CRM-20B2 Hall sensor 3. Short to GND, disconnected or internal error' as a recurring error in Vida. Over this past weekend while putting the hard top back up, had one of my flap cables break:

I haven't had time to troubleshoot or run Vida. Obviously, I'm not retracting the roof until I know what's going on and what to do about it. I don't know if this is related to the CRM-20B2 error of if it's the start of some kind of roof failure cascade.

Car did not have headliner when I bought it in February, it looks like it had been cut out leaving some parts where it attached to outer roof edges/flaps.

On related note because I haven't been able to figure it out. How do you set roof maintenance service position in Vida?

 

Simple, You start from the beginning:

Find out what's wrong with the roof:

I asked you if you did reset the hydraulic relief valve to its normal position after pulling the wire under the rear seat to manually actuate the roof. Confirm if you did this.

After confirming the relief valve was reset, you'll need to undo whatever the dealer did to "disable" the alarm. I assume they disconnected the CRM module. If so, plug it back.

If you get the "ROOF MALFUNCTION" message in the dashboard, press and hold the open or close button for 30-45 seconds (I can't remember how long exactly, bit it takes a while), the hydraulic pump should kick in and the roof should complete the cycle. If this works and the error clears, congratulations!. Go back to the dealer, tell them what you did and ask for a refund.

If the roof still doesn't work, then get ahold of a laptop with VIDA or a high end scanner to see which errors are stored. Throwing parts at it hoping it fixes the problem, is the perfect recipe to waste money and go broke.

I had the back roof liner drop and when I attempted to put the roof in service mode it slowly collapsed. If this happens, DO NOT attempt to cycle to OPEN as it will snap the cords on the side roof liners (edge of roof, above front seat passenger and drivers head). If this collapse thing happens, cycle to closed and it will not snap them.

The roof folded down 3 times before I got it to stay. I had to elevate the front about 2 inches (rv level squares) to get to a stable service mode. EACH TIME it dropped down, it threw the Roof Malfunction code when I tried to operate it to a closed or open position. The only way I could get it to reset was by disconnecting the battery for about 10 secs but it did reset each time.
Now that the roof liner is glued in and the roof goes up and down correctly, I just need to figure out how to re-string and connect those cables for the roof liner edges.

 

Dunno if this helps - but I ended up having the entire HTC wiring harness replaced on my 2008 C70 T5 M66. Dealer Labor was not cheap - but they did everything they could to jumper/retie/patch the existing harness before replacement. I truly hope you have better luck by following Facusan’s sage advice.

C70 Roof Failure - Roof gets stuck half-way thru closing...

Hi, My 2006 C70 has developed a frustrating stall during roof operations: from the roof-down position, when closing (putting the roof back up), the trunk successfully does its reverse lift, then a failure kicks in and the process stops, with the trunk stuck vertical. I've turned the car off and...

www.swedespeed.com

 

In 2016 my last C70 ('04 soft-top convertible) experienced a top malfunction in the down and latched position. The local dealer manually put the top up and told us they had no idea what was wrong with it or how to fix it and offered to sell us a new Volvo.

On a hunch, I contacted the Volvo dealer in a North Atlanta suburb, figuring they would have seen many more C70s than my local dealer. As soon as I described the problem, the service writer said "yeah, we get that problem a few times a month." He booked an appointment for 3 days later and the car was fixed within a day.

Moral of this story: I don't know where you are located, but if it is not a large metropolitan area, they may not have the knowledge and experience to handle convertible problems. Don't be afraid to go to another dealer.

 

Please provide more information
What was the actual problem?
How did they fix it?
What parts were involved?
What did it cost?

 

After a roof malfunction on my 2008 C70, my dealership told me the problem was either electrical or hydraulic and charged me $500 for that assessment. They estimated $8K to fix. And they offered me $1K for the vehicle as-is.

Is it expected that they could not isolate and confirm the issue?

Any advice on how to proceed with repairing it myself? (I will have help from a mechanic friend, but I want to be a bit more educated as I proceed. Thanks.)


quartz flooring washington dc

I'm sorry to hear about the issues with your 2008 C70. Regarding your dealership's assessment, it's difficult to determine the exact cause of the problem without more information. However, it's possible that they couldn't isolate and confirm the issue due to various reasons, such as complex diagnostics or a need for specialized equipment. The electrical and hydraulic systems in convertible roofs can be intricate, requiring specific expertise to diagnose accurately.
If you're considering repairing the vehicle yourself with the help of a mechanic friend, here are a few steps to proceed with a DIY approach:

1. Research the issue: Start by researching common problems with the convertible roof in your specific car model. Look for forums, owner communities, and online resources that discuss similar issues and possible solutions. This research can help you gain a better understanding of the problem and potential fixes.
2. Obtain a service manual: Obtain a service manual for your vehicle, either in physical or digital format. This manual will provide detailed instructions, diagrams, and specifications specific to your car model. It will be an invaluable resource throughout the repair process.
3. Diagnose the problem: Use the information from your research and the service manual to diagnose the problem with your convertible roof. Inspect the electrical and hydraulic components, checking for any visible damage, loose connections, or fluid leaks. Perform basic electrical tests and use appropriate diagnostic tools to narrow down the issue further.
4. Gather necessary parts and tools: Based on your diagnosis, make a list of the required parts and tools for the repair. Ensure that you have access to the necessary equipment and replacement components before starting the repair process.
5. Follow repair procedures: Follow the step-by-step repair procedures outlined in the service manual. Pay attention to safety precautions and any specific instructions related to electrical or hydraulic systems. Work methodically, documenting your progress, and keeping track of any adjustments or repairs made.
6. Seek assistance if needed: If you encounter difficulties during the repair process, don't hesitate to seek guidance from your mechanic friend or other experienced individuals. They may be able to provide valuable insights or hands-on assistance to help you overcome any challenges.
7. Test and verify: Once the repairs are complete, thoroughly test the convertible roof to ensure it operates correctly. Look for any leaks, abnormal sounds, or malfunctions. Address any issues that arise during the testing phase.

It's important to note that working on complex systems like the convertible roof requires technical expertise and experience. If you're not confident in your abilities or the scope of the repair exceeds your comfort level, it may be best to consult a professional or specialized mechanic who has experience with convertible roofs.
Additionally, keep in mind that the cost of parts and the potential for unexpected complications should be considered when deciding to proceed with the repair. Make sure you have a clear budget and a contingency plan in case the repair becomes more involved or costly than initially anticipated.
I hope these steps help you as you proceed with repairing your C70. If you have any more specific questions, feel free to ask

 

BS-
They should have not charged $500 to do nothing-Only assess that they can't help.

 

@hevas1: That’s a very long answer full of nothing helpful. Get out of here bot!

 

@Calbo found the roof service position function in Vida based on your description. Thanks, I never would have figured that out. I've been offline dealing with a family situation - apologies for delay in response. I'll test it and I'll look at the broken line(s) tomorrow after air intake upgrade / repairing a upper plenum snapped bolt. Hoping that I don't need to replace rope (p/n 31256464), which is +$500.

@volvogod question I had earlier had more to do with whether faulty hall sensor #3 caused mis-calibration or something like that leading to damaging rope. The frayed end suggests the rope snapped but I'll use your info for reference as I take a closer look. I'm not optimistic that I can fix roof cables/ropes/lines. Diagrams and instructions in Vida indicate its not straightforward at all.

 

Futzed around with my roof today trying to figure out my rope/cable issue. Used it as an opportunity to try out setting roof service position in Vida. Shot some video to get feedback and advice.

Roof cable troubleshooting:

Roof service position:

@volvogod it doesn't look like exactly the same issue as you said to check out, but it's looks pretty similar so appreciate the link. In the video, I say that it looks like a separate cable/rope that what I was thinking but looking again at the diagrams, it seems that it is p/n 31256464 after all ($ 527.23 ?!?).

 

Older thread but adding video for repair of Convertible Top Cable (Left, Rear) p/n 31256464. I made this repair last year but just never got around to editing together a video until this weekend.

 

$527 FOR THOSE FRICKIN' CORDS???? WTF?!!! There's gotta be a more reasonable alternative to that. Either an aftermarket part or going through the DIY route. I think the length of the cords is the most vital part. The cords on mine, even though the top never saw too much use (VIDA says it has 102 total maneuvers, I probably done 30-40 of those), the cords are kinda brittle, they're not very plyable. I guess that's the direct effect of being baked under tension during 15+ summer seasons.

 

$527 FOR THOSE FRICKIN' CORDS???? WTF?!!! There's gotta be a more reasonable alternative to that.

Talked with Erie VoVo and ordered new cord for $250. Figured I'd better not try to jury-rig something (although pretty dang tempting). Got a hall sensor while I was at it. I'm basically twiddling my thumbs until Elevate ships out air intake.

 

Can anyone confirm that all Hall sensors are the same? Meaning, p/n 1385262 can be used for #3, #15, etc.?

 

So I've been dealing with bungee-related issues for my Silver Bullet for a couple months now. The specific issue has been the corner "wings". Shortly after I bought the car, the back left corner wing was not properly falling back into its proper "flush with the corner position". So, in the standard you don't know till you know...when I bought the car I would have identified that either the original or second owner had a bungee problem with the plastic anchor piece for the bungee and created an epoxy mountain around it to hold it in place. Well, that eventually failed and I was putting the top up and using an umbrella to push the corner in for quite some time as I tried to figure out next steps (nobody wants these things resting on both your leather and your back dash!). It was a nuisance if anything (sometimes I can live with these little issues) Of course the right corner plastic anchor failed a couple weeks ago and then it became a full fledged DEFCON 1 issue. What to do, what to do....

As I looked for options I realized that epoxy was just going to be a mess and not a long-term solution or even a guaranteed solution. The cost of replacing the headliner is ridiculous and my frustration of knowing that while the top is a cool engineering marvel, the use of hard plastic anchors to hold the bungees seemed typical of approaches you often see to reduce overall costs during the design process. It's funny how we all can look at something over and over and never see the solution right in front of us until the light comes on. I realized that while the fabric is sewn on the bottom, it's not on the top of the wings and I also realized that the plastic anchor mold had a hole in the plastic (in my defense, the fabric of the headliner does a good job of hiding that fact). Thankfully I realized this and decided to try using zip ties (I was ready to drill and was worried I'd possibly crack the plastic wing). Instead of drilling a hole, I decided to take a 14" zip tie and run it through the hole of plastic anchor and up around the plastic wing. I was careful to tighten it in place with the head of the zip tie closest to the plastic anchor. I then took a 10x2cm zip tie and wrapped it around the 14" zip tie (as close to the head as possible, but in between the zip tie head and the plastic anchor). I placed the head of the bungee in the smaller zip tie and tightened. Success! Perhaps it's off by an inch at most, but I've now cycled it a couple times and everything is working and in place. I've attached pictures of the before and after. The firt pic shows the god awful mess of the epoxy and you can see in the second picture where the plastic anchor cracked at the corner and lost it's integrity to hold the bungee in place. Pics 3 and 4 show the finished product. I'll keep you guys up to date

 

Had the same issue so I removed the wings and brackets for both front and rear panel sections. Probably took out 5 pounds of unnecessary hardware. Disconnected the bungee cables that weren't broke and guess what? No more flaps getting hung up on the headrests! Entire headliner is gone. Will replace it using the original pressed inserts with an unbleached canvas (Harbor Freight $10) liner then secure with retainer clips through the entire panel into original holes. No more wings making it all perfect, but it will be bulletproof for function!

 

Better yet - find a dealer who has experienced and trained techs for the roof. It sounds like the dealer who charged you wayyy too much doesn't have the trained service technicians. Call around; even if that dealership is miles away, it'll be worth it in the long run.

Tedders
Drive Laughing! 😄

 

I have this same problem with my 2012 C70! Can you update on what the outcome of this was...please?! Thank you, Sandy in Ventura.

 

Sandy,
If you are referring to the problem with the plastic anchor for the flap giving out, my experience with the other poster's zip tie solution has been super positive. I had bought the 3d printed replacement and was resigned to all the glueing etc. but zip ties did the trick. When it worked it was one of the happiest days of my life. I would be glad to talk to you on the phone about it if that would help. Not sure how to make that happen. (If I can help, send an email to blueseapath@gmail.com and we can get phone #s) If you are having the more complicated electrical problem described in some of the posts, not sure I would be of much help. Joe