[BMW1600]

I have spent a really long time on P80-related forums and have seen several dead links/photos and veiled references, but nothing explicit. I would like to explain in plain English to my local (non-Volvo) garage what they need to do so separate the angle flange/DP from one car's turbo and swap it onto another car. Both cars have td04 turbos. I have seen a reference to a band clamp (easy enough) and an indexing pin. Is there anyone out there who could illuminate a bit more so I have some comfort talking this over? I am moving an angle flange DP and 3" DP from an 850 (18t) to my V70 T5 (16t).

Thanks!

PS - Just to skip the "but you can do this yourself" thing, I live in a condo where I cannot work on the car

 

[02duxv70]

This video should help. The cartridge and the exhaust housing gets reassembled at about the 12 minute mark.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Theres a fair possibility that removing/installing the turbo from the exhaust housing will damage the CHRA/turbine. Unfortunately this risk exists, just wanted to make it know up front.

Removing existing unit:

Remove charge pipe. Remove intake pipe. 7mm hose clamps.

Unbolt downpipe (3) 13mm nuts.

Remove the oil feed line (17mm on turbo, 19mm on block), firewall side water feed (17mm) on turbo. Undo the turbo return drain (from underneath). It may be 6mm hex/Allen (most likely), 10mm or T30s. Fasteners changed a few times.

Remove clamp on the water return line soft section to the water tree. T belt end. Leave the hard line attached to the core.

Unbolt the turbo from the manifold. 4x 13mm, 2 on top, two on the bottom. Shallow wall socket works best on the bottom.

Now, lift the turbo out.

 

[ScottishBrick]

List of parts you'll need to reinstall. Not all MANDATORY, this is just a comprehensive reference list

TD04HL Turbo Swap Parts
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (set of 5)
271802
Manifold to Turbo Gasket
8642450
Turbo to DP Gasket (angle)
8642449
Turbo to DP Gasket (strait)
1275549
Turbo Oil Return Drain Upper Gasket
31251456
Turbo Oil Return Drain Lower O Ring
31251439
Turbo Oil Supply Crush Washer (x2)
947282
Turbo Water Supply and Return Crush Washers (x4)
11994
Head to Exhaust Manifold Studs x10
982667

 

[ScottishBrick]

Now you will have both turbos on the bench.

Should have asked before but why no 18t on the 98 T5M? (Great match, tuning is easy).

CHRA is held to the hot side with a v band with a 10mm nut. Hand tools only! Its stainless, will gall and break if you use an impact driver.

Once that clamp is off, turbo "would" come apart. But exhaust carbon, oil coke ect basically glued them together. Youll need a 2 lb hammer, holding the turbo compressor side up, tap around the outside of the exhaust housing. Evenly, not too much force, if it cocks you can ding the turbine and or bend the shaft. Have something to catch the exhaust housing when it drops. Be careful and gentle minded with this operation.

When the hot side comes off, chase the threads on all the holes/studs before reassembly.

Assembly:

You will see a pin, or remains of a pin and the corresponding hole in the turbine housing/CHRA. Make an external alignment mark with a sharpie across the split in that location. Do not reuse the pin! Pull it out or break it off. Trying to pull the housing together with that pin will **** the CHRA, ding the turbine or bend the shaft. V band holds the turbo together very effectively. Make a second alignment mark at 11 o clock looking down the turbo, from the compressor side. This is where you'll set the gap on the V band and can watch the alignment while you tighten the clamp.

Hand seat the CHRA into the angle flange hot side. If it doesnt seat evenly/casually, clean the mating surfaces of carbon/coke ect. Both of them! The tolerances are fairly small between the turbine and the housing, little room for off angle assembly without damaging.

Once the CHRA is seated correctly, aligned and clocked as necessary, attach the v band.

Beyond this, assembly is the reverse of install.

 

[02duxv70]

I have only disassembled one turbo but on mine with 170k on it the cartridge came out of the exhaust side with little effort and was surprisingly clean. Do they typically get significant carbon buildup? I'm wondering if mine had been apart previously.

 

[ScottishBrick]

I have only disassembled one turbo but on mine with 170k on it the cartridge came out of the exhaust side with little effort and was surprisingly clean. Do they typically get significant carbon buildup? I'm wondering if mine had been apart previously.

Yes. That’s likely been apart. Usually requires a decent amount of tapping to get unstuck. Ultrasonic cleaning of the exhaust housing helps for easy reassembly too.

 

[BMW1600]

Thanks very much for the vid and the text walk through, which I will review. My uninformed view (from simply looking at the turbo and the space available) was that they could take the DP off the flange and "simply" remove the flange without removing the turbo. Am I wrong?

 

[02duxv70]

Yes, you are wrong. The turbo is mounted by the exhaust flange. The cold side and the center cartridge are clamped to the hot side which is then bolted to the exhaust manifold. The cold side is essentially floating on the flexible intake pipe and the plastic over-engine pipe and the coolant and oil lines. They will most likely need to disconnect the oil feed and coolant lines to remove the exhaust flange anyway.

 

[BMW1600]

Now you will have both turbos on the bench.

Should have asked before but why no 18t on the 98 T5M? (Great match, tuning is easy).

CHRA is held to the hot side with a v band with a 10mm nut. Hand tools only! Its stainless, will gall and break if you use an impact driver.

Once that clamp is off, turbo "would" come apart. But exhaust carbon, oil coke ect basically glued them together. Youll need a 2 lb hammer, holding the turbo compressor side up, tap around the outside of the exhaust housing. Evenly, not too much force, if it cocks you can ding the turbine and or bend the shaft. Have something to catch the exhaust housing when it drops. Be careful and gentle minded with this operation.

When the hot side comes off, chase the threads on all the holes/studs before reassembly.

Assembly:

You will see a pin, or remains of a pin and the corresponding hole in the turbine housing/CHRA. Make an external alignment mark with a sharpie across the split in that location. Do not reuse the pin! Pull it out or break it off. Trying to pull the housing together with that pin will **** the CHRA, ding the turbine or bend the shaft. V band holds the turbo together very effectively. Make a second alignment mark at 11 o clock looking down the turbo, from the compressor side. This is where you'll set the gap on the V band and can watch the alignment while you tighten the clamp.

Hand seat the CHRA into the angle flange hot side. If it doesnt seat evenly/casually, clean the mating surfaces of carbon/coke ect. Both of them! The tolerances are fairly small between the turbine and the housing, little room for off angle assembly without damaging.

Once the CHRA is seated correctly, aligned and clocked as necessary, attach the v band.

Beyond this, assembly is the reverse of install.

I'm a bit leery of slapping the 18t on precisely because it will need to be tuned more or less immediately and while the car is in a fine state I am not sure it is "Stage 0" at the moment.

 

[ScottishBrick]

I'm a bit leery of slapping the 18t on precisely because it will need to be tuned more or less immediately and while the car is in a fine state I am not sure it is "Stage 0" at the moment.

It won’t. It’s barely bigger than the 18t and at stock boost levels things will be fine. Just set the wastegate properly (4 psi) or even looser.