man,
don't worry about the clutch ... it's good for +250K.
Worry about the slave! it's volvo's way of giving dealers an income.

EDIT: since your car probably is still on 1st slave and clutch... if you want to safe your clutch ask your dealer to replace the slave with the new type.
Then you save your clutch for sure for another 250K, with a blowing slave it could ruin the clutch-disc. my 1st was dry after explosion, my 2nd clutch-disc was soaked ... it was replaced by the old design, no new design available back then.
The original slave-cylinder is a ticking time-bomb .... swap it now and save the extra +350€ clutchset or wait till it happens. The clutch disc is very strong so probably will look like new, dealer will probably recommend to replace it also but that's for their sake.

 

JARMO, I looked on Rock Auto and the slave cylinder is about $130 (cheap) any clue what the install cost would be? I mean for 3 hours labor this may be a smart thing for me to do.

 

Actually my clutch was done at 46k (I'm at 96 now) and the new slave cylinder was installed

I think I want better performance and a stock feel

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I ordered my kevlar clutch from clutchnet.com put 10k on it so far. Had a very long 1k miles break in period. I am still using the stock flywheel, and pp, and replaced my slave with clutch. I did resurface my flywheel taking off .015.
Clutchnets communications leave something to be desired. Took a month to get my clutch but it works.

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I hate the clutch in these cars. Drove my friends new scion gt86 and that thing loves to be shifted hard at higher revs, my volvo feels very chunky and slow when shifting hard at speed. I have had my clutch replaced in 2008. I will check my slave again and do a brake fluid flush when it warms up.

 

I have stage 2. Happy with it. It is not like OEM as you have to properly engage it. You cannot slip it like the OEM one or it will shutter as it has faster engagement. But if you know how to properly drive a manual it works well. It requires enlarging the holes in the flywheel (the details come with the clutch). I have the clutch installed by Sandberg and they went to the local machine shop to enlarge the holes and resurfaced the wheel.

The OEM one was slipping when towing full load, on a 7% hill under hard acceleration but the reason for change was the opportunity created by the transmission failure. Also got new slave.

 

Spec Stage 5+

 

Mine is a 3+ with sprung hub. Grabs like crazy but pedal is stiff and grabs right away not high like stock. If I was stuck in traffic everyday I would not use my clutch. My R is a hobby car and am building it so works great for me.

 

Who uses a 5+ Blake?

 

So I'm still not getting an answer...
Stock feel with reinforced parts is what I'm looking for

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I think the spec stage 2 or stage 2+ kits would best fit your criteria.

Spec stage 1 kit = 370 ft-lb holding torque
Spec stage 2 kit = 420 ft-lb holding torque
Spec stage 2+ kit = 475 ft-lb holding torque

Read the descriptions of the various stages on Spec's website and see what matches up best with what you're looking for: SPEC

 

Stock feel? Well just the stock one. Hard to know if some aftermarket will be the same for you and other people. I installed the stage 3+ in my car in i like it but cant say is the same as the oem.

 

Sachs racing 765 pressure plate (BMW M5) Volvo 850 SM flywheel and stock sprung disc (06-> ). A bit hard pedal, but engages and handles like stock. PP rated at 590Nm torque but I bet it can handle atleast 750-800Nm. It came out at under half the cost of a Spec setup. Search for my buil thread for more info.

Sent from my Galaxy S3.

 

I have an OEM clutch kit installed with a single mass flywheel. I love it. It took a little bit of getting used to, but it's great. It requires better shifting form than the stock flywheel, but whatever.

 

I've driven a T5 wit ha spec clutch. It required more force to depress the pedal and would bite almost immediately. Stop and go was not fun.

With my stock clutch(brand new ~60K ago) and a single mass flywheel, it's had no issues holding WOT to redline runs with an MTE stage 2 tune.

At 100K miles, my original clutch slipped a lot with the tune.


Edit: I haven't driven the T5 with the SPEC clutch in Boston, but did drive it for a day around Norwood on RT1 for work. It was so harshly different, that when I got back in my R, I thought my clutch stuck to the floor, because my muscle memory was expecting the extra force. I felt like I was lifting my leg and the clutch pedal wouldn't move. Weird feeling.

 

I've driven a T5 wit ha spec clutch. It required more force to depress the pedal and would bite almost immediately. Stop and go was not fun.

Edit: I haven't driven the T5 with the SPEC clutch in Boston, but did drive it for a day around Norwood on RT1 for work. It was so harshly different, that when I got back in my R, I thought my clutch stuck to the floor, because my muscle memory was expecting the extra force. I felt like I was lifting my leg and the clutch pedal wouldn't move. Weird feeling.

Yeah that's exactly what I don't want...

Anyone know the stock clutch's capabilities/limits?

 

I'm pretty sure it'll hold just fine, given your mods. I mean, you're not looking to shoot for 400hp, right?

 

I'd like to add a FMIC and Stage 2 tune at least, possibly do more down the line. 400hp would probably be the max though.

 

I'm sure it'd be fine. Connor's got a stock clutch and flywheel. He's doing all kinds of crazy stuff with his.

I can't find what forum I was on, but I was told the clutch is good for 500hp...obviously take that with a grain of salt.


Now those wheels of yours...what size spacer did you have to go with? Boston ate one of my 18" pegs.

 

If you are abusive even slightly in how you drive OEM is not for you

These are heavy cars, and if you launch them at all it is hard on the OEM clutch. They are just not designed to take the abuse that slipping the clutch requires to launch a car like this with out blowing things up.

The Black 04 I had, had a brand new OEM Volvo clutch put in it right before I got it. I put about 15,000 mi of driving on it my driving style and the OEM clutch was already starting to complain. This was at bone stock hp level for all but 4 months of its life.

I don't know why people get so worked up over pedal effort. Every M/T car I have owned I've put a better stiffer clutch in it and it has made them better to drive. after a couple of weeks of adjusting to the new clutches feel, I like it more than stock. I find it much much simpler for my leg to memorize where the exact spot the clutch engages/disengages and with the stiffer clutch I feel its easier to modulate the clutch. With oem you can't feel **** and its much harder.

If you put an OEM in and its not up to the task of holding your driving style, power level you will be doing a clutch a 2nd time when the OEM lets go. The after market units have better parts and are less likely to spit a spring out if you like to bang gears. Some of them don't even have springs to spit out.

I drove my 93 Civic hatch with a turbo D16z6 and the Stiffest street style (full face) disk ACT makes in stop and go traffic and still wasn't that bad. Its not that hard to put the car in neutral and let your leg rest for a second if you have to, then pull forward all 3 car lengths.

Now if you don't launch the car at all and mostly do hwy pulls the stock clutch may be ok for you, but this is not how I drive. I'm not saying you have to do a 4 puck shaved down racing disk, but OEM is not cool being beat on.


The stock clutch is starting to show signs of letting go in my Z32 TT 300zx and I'm going to put a 5 puck unsprung setup in it because I'm too abusive, I like to launch my cars.

 

If you are abusive even slightly in how you drive OEM is not for you

These are heavy cars, and if you launch them at all it is hard on the OEM clutch. They are just not designed to take the abuse that slipping the clutch requires to launch a car like this with out blowing things up.

The Black 04 I had, had a brand new OEM Volvo clutch put in it right before I got it. I put about 15,000 mi of driving on it my driving style and the OEM clutch was already starting to complain. This was at bone stock hp level for all but 4 months of its life.

I don't know why people get so worked up over pedal effort. Every M/T car I have owned I've put a better stiffer clutch in it and it has made them better to drive. after a couple of weeks of adjusting to the new clutches feel, I like it more than stock. I find it much much simpler for my leg to memorize where the exact spot the clutch engages/disengages and with the stiffer clutch I feel its easier to modulate the clutch. With oem you can't feel **** and its much harder.

If you put an OEM in and its not up to the task of holding your driving style, power level you will be doing a clutch a 2nd time when the OEM lets go. The after market units have better parts and are less likely to spit a spring out if you like to bang gears. Some of them don't even have springs to spit out.

I drove my 93 Civic hatch with a turbo D16z6 and the Stiffest street style (full face) disk ACT makes in stop and go traffic and still wasn't that bad. Its not that hard to put the car in neutral and let your leg rest for a second if you have to, then pull forward all 3 car lengths.

Now if you don't launch the car at all and mostly do hwy pulls the stock clutch may be ok for you, but this is not how I drive. I'm not saying you have to do a 4 puck shaved down racing disk, but OEM is not cool being beat on.

The stock clutch is starting to show signs of letting go in my Z32 TT 300zx and I'm going to put a 5 puck unsprung setup in it because I'm too abusive, I like to launch my cars.

Thanks for your input. It's not really the pedal effort that bothers me, it is the inability to slip the clutch in situations where it is needed, such as parallel parking in a small spot. I don't mind how much effort it is to push the pedal, I just don't want a clutch that engages in an instant and doesn't slip but shudders. I don't ever do launches from a stop where I'm revving up to 3 or 4K revs and then dumping it, or feathering it and flooring it. I get on it easy from a stop, and then I'm much more likely to have hard/fast gearshifts.

I guess it would really help to be able to drive a car with a SPEC clutch to see exactly what it's like, but chances are I will likely just go with OEM to be safe.

Now those wheels of yours...what size spacer did you have to go with? Boston ate one of my 18" pegs.

10mm front and 15mm rear, might be able to get away with 10 in the rear as well. This weather is growing a bumper crop of potholes, I've been lucky so far.

 

Bumping this thread.

Is anyone running Single Mass Flywheel with OEM clutch? I'm looking for:
- something that allows me to slip the clutch in city driving / parallel parking
- something that can handle more power and won't necessarily slip under heavy WOT

Will SMF not shift as smooth under heavy acceleration?

 

K i got my answer

NO to SMF...

YES to upgraded clutch and pressure plate

 

Stock clutch without delay valve is the way to go.

The delay valve is 99.9% of the problem.