The 4th gear issue is either a linkage issue or internal to the transmission. Nothing to do with the clutch usually.

I would add the engine rear main seal as well as the internal slave cylinder. Both easy to change while it's apart, and very frustrating to take down the transmission just to fix one if it fails.

 

OK, all this is internet-grown knowledge from my search for a clutch for ours (also M56 2.4i) (if it goes, it works sort of ok now) So, someone correct me if i'm wrong, and don't be gentle.

You need to make sure that the clutch kit includes the pressure plate and the slave cylinder.

The clutch is self-adjusting when the clutch wears out (getting thinner, there is a spring powered preloaded system on it that is designed to so it turns out to compensate for the wear) and you need tools to proper align it and give it pre-tension. Otherwise your new clutch will soon wear or not disengage at all. Just search for volvo clutch setting tool. There is one on ebay now for 99 euro, incl. shipping. My plan was to buy a kit, and sell it when i've used it. Or put it on the interwebs for rental use. Go on youtube and search for the clutch setting as well, it'll make sense.

Are you sure the Valeo is a DMF? all the Valeo's i've came across are a single mass flywheel. The low price, usually indicates it's a non DM flywheel. For DMF, it'll set you back around 500 euro. I found a cheap LUK one on Amazon.de, but that's not of any help for you on the other side of that big pond.

 

In my experience you don't need the clutch setting tool for a new in box pressure plate. Only when servicing and re-using a pressure plate. Basically they come factory pre-set and start adjusting with the first push of the clutch pedal.

 

So I should be fine and it should just self adjust?

@ Serum,

Most clutch kits come with the pressure plate & the slave cylinder no? It's the clutch disc, pressure plate, slave cylinder. Also the master cylinder too no?

 

I've done a few of these clutches and for me, just installing it and bleeding the fluid gets them working just fine.

The master cylinder can be changed at any time so I wouldn't bother unless you think it's on the way out and want the whole system fresh. Otherwise it's just wasted money.

My last tip would be when bleeding the clutch make absolutely sure the reservoir is over-full, almost overflowing. There is a separate chamber for the clutch and it only fills when the brake fluid is near the top. This is a safety so that if your clutch fails you don't lose all your brake fluid. But if you don't keep it very full, you can pump air into the clutch over and over again. Once the clutch is bled and working well, suck out the excess brake fluid.

 

Very good to know!

 

So I have:

Duel Mass Flywheel
Clutch Kit (Luk)
Inner/Outer Input Shaft Bearing
Rear Engine Crankshaft Seal (Might aswell)

Missing anything? I believe those bearings are called the "release" bearings? and the pilot bearings are the slave? Correct me if I'm wrong.