SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
688 views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Cheeseheadninja  
#1 ·
Hi guys I'm having some clutch problem with my c30 t5 manual 2007. I recently had the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder replaced but the clutch is acting weird ever since.
When car is not running clutch feels perfectly normal, but when when running clutch sticks to floor and comes back after a couple of seconds when car is cold after driving for about 30 minutes the clutch feels somewhat normal again. This happens when its cold only seems like.
I have bled the system no difference.
I live in Sweden so its been cold ever since the replacement so i have not had the chance to see how the clutch feels weekend it's warm.
Also clutch feels notchy and springy as in i can feel a spring when letting out the clutch.
Any ideas what it could be? Or what i could try?
 
#2 ·
Assuming that ther is no air in the clutch fluid line, master cylinder or slave cylinder and the slave was recently replaced; I would suspect the master cylinder. They are known to go bad. There is a slight possibility that the slave could be the problem. I had one fail 14 days after replacement and it contaminated the clutch with fluid.

Speaking of... make sure there is no fluid leaking from the transmission bell housing or anywhere along the hydraulic line. There are a few connections that can leak if not snapped in properly. For the clutch job there is one outside infront of the transmission where the bleeder is and one inside the bell housing connecting to the slave. When my slave failed, it started with the clutch slipping a little (likely fluid on the clutch) and then the pedal would go to the floor and stay. I had to pull it up with my foot. It quickly got worse until it was undrivable. Fluid was dripping from the bell housing.

I also had the master cylinder replaced, which started leaking about a year after replacement. The hydraulic line was not snapped in properly because the metal clip was mangled.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: JA VOLVO
#4 ·
The other thing that should have been replaced is the 'vent pipe" 30787651. It includes a 'shock load limiter", which can cause the pedal to stick if it's got gummed up.
It's intended to prevent speed shifts - if the pedal is operated to quickly, it will delay the pedal return.
Image

Image
Perfect thank you! will definitely check that out, will need to replace mine anyway, the plastic screw got messed up when i was trying to bleed the system.
 
#5 ·
Not to hijack this thread, but does anyone have a full list of things that should be replaced when doing the clutch? The things that should be done while you're in there.

I will need to replace my clutch relatively soon (177k miles in original clutch). I would have never thought to do the vent pipe mentioned above!
 
#6 ·
Not to hijack this thread, but does anyone have a full list of things that should be replaced when doing the clutch? The things that should be done while you're in there.

I will need to replace my clutch relatively soon (177k miles in original clutch). I would have never thought to do the vent pipe mentioned above!
Part numbers vary depending on application.

Full clutch kit w/flywheel
new flywheel bolts
vent pipe
slave cylinder
transaxle (axle) seals (2) (3 if AWD transaxle)
transaxle input shaft seal
Fresh Volvo gear oil for the transaxle

Many ppl would do the clutch master at the same time, but it has nothing to do with removing the transaxle, so I wouldn't suggest it unless you are a serious masochist, its a horrible job.