[benrpd]

Finally got my Elevate/AutoTech tune on, and it pulls like a freight train until about 2200RPM and then the car begins to shudder or experience some type of power loss. I load the stock tune on, and it seems fine. The boost (I think) seems to be sporadic sometimes, but I'm not entirely sure (not able to access the car atm otherwise I'd check). I was on the highway in 6th gear, dropped it into 4th to pass and it was not happy about that at all, same goes with 5th and 6th. I was told it could be a multitude of different things; needing colder plugs, TCV, bad ignition coil or even bad fuel mapping. I wouldn't imagine a bad fuel map as I highly doubt these guys would mess something they've done up so many times. Has anyone else heard of or experienced a similar issue?

Car is an 05 S40 T5 w/140,345 kms on it. Mods can be seen below.

 

[AviatorDrew]

Stage Zero? Start with what's broken or expected to break around 87,206 miles. Your engine mounts are likely trashed too. Got any tranny jolts in shifts yet?? Lol...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?197985-Power-and-RPM-drop-in-3rg-gear%28AT-GT%29

New Coilpacks and SparkPlugs could do wonders for ignition.

 

[Slasher]

you dont need colder plugs with your setup, but when is the last time you put new plugs in?
if the issue is only when the tune is loaded i would think it would have to be something with that. after loading the tune, did you give the car/ecu any adaption time after experiencing these problems? IIRC when i first loaded mine there was some blippyness to it for a couple until things smoothed out.

 

[Screamindman]

I used colder plugs just to get some heat out of the head. I don't think they are a necessity, but I didn't think it hurt me--car runs great. Coils and plugs would be a good start...also maybe the FPS is on its way out and can't handle the greater fuel demands of the tune but works sufficiently for stock tune. At this point, the tune for the P1 cars has been out for a long time, so it's unlikely that they didn't get the tune right. Good luck!

 

[EngTech]

Hey , Nova Scotia , got a place for Me to hold up fore a Day or 2 - While I hike the Area ?

Start with the simple stuff _ Pull Plugs and reduce the Gap .007 from where ever they are Currently . read ( Which most likely too Large )

Older Coil packs may not be able to Jump the Gap - under High Boost . ( Simple Check _ Low Cost also . )

 

[benrpd]

Checked the plugs, all mint. Checked the coils for resistance testing, all consistent. Replaced the TCV, no major change. What is this about letting the tune adapt? Should I load the tune, drive it for a few days and then stomp on it?

 

[benrpd]

Also, my "Time for Regular Maintenance" light is on... would this have anything to do with it? I was out tonight with the new TCV and it threw a code in cylinder 3 for a misfire. only did it once though.

 

[Screamindman]

Adapt or no adapt, you shouldn't be falling flat at 2200 rpms like that...I hope it's something stupid.

 

[benrpd]

It doesn't matter what RPM I'm at, if I'm at 4000 and mat it the second it passes 10lbs it decides to knock. Now that being said, I replaced my TCV last night and it made things SLIGHTLY better, in that before it would hit 10lbs, try and hit 15 and shudder the whole time. Now it passes 10, hits 15, shudders a bit and then holds 12ish. But I highly doubt a new TCV wouldn't be able to hold this boost or break immediately.

 

[benrpd]

Older Coil packs may not be able to Jump the Gap - under High Boost . ( Simple Check _ Low Cost also . )

How do I check this?

 

[Bas_T5]

you can't really visually check your plugs. Only if your coil is bad you can see it on the plug if your lucky
Just replace them with OEM plugs, and then I think your fine. But before a tune make sure the car is in perfect condition.
New oil and filters and good fuel is also important.

Good luck!

 

[EngTech]

What is the exact Gap ?

Type of Plugs ?

Miles on Vehicle ?

Also Sounds like You may have loaded _ Stage II which should have a Higher Spec's CBV .

 

[kova]

Also Sounds like You may have loaded _ Stage II which should have a Higher Spec's CBV .

Really? I was happily using OEM CBV with Stage 3 (314 HP on the fly) for more than 2 years before I upgraded to K16 turbo.

 

[Bas_T5]

I Also have the OEM CBV still installed

 

[kova]

I Also have the OEM CBV still installed

And you should leave it that way.

Stronger CBV spring only increases chances of boost spike in front of the throttle body when you lift off the pedal and that can cause turbo surge which you will feel as a sluggish engine response after you press the acc. pedal after shifting and you can also hear the "wob wob" kind of sound. Frequent turbo surges will also significantly decrease lifetime of your turbine.

 

[EngTech]

First He had a power issue then He has a Knock .

The Higher Spring on a CBV should only be used for the K16

I wonder If His waste gate was Off in the first place , and Now He has No Codes ? & ( Over Boost ) Hhhmmm ?

I'd still Test the simple things and Re-Gap Plugs .

+1 = Bas_T5

 

[kova]

The Higher Spring on a CBV should only be used for the K16

I am happily using OEM CBV on my K16 turbo with Stage IV tune for more than a year now. If I am not mistaken K04 and K16 RS turbo have the same OEM CBV.

 

[kova]

Finally got my Elevate/AutoTech tune on, and it pulls like a freight train until about 2200RPM and then the car begins to shudder or experience some type of power loss. I load the stock tune on, and it seems fine. The boost (I think) seems to be sporadic sometimes, but I'm not entirely sure (not able to access the car atm otherwise I'd check). I was on the highway in 6th gear, dropped it into 4th to pass and it was not happy about that at all, same goes with 5th and 6th. I was told it could be a multitude of different things; needing colder plugs, TCV, bad ignition coil or even bad fuel mapping. I wouldn't imagine a bad fuel map as I highly doubt these guys would mess something they've done up so many times. Has anyone else heard of or experienced a similar issue?

Car is an 05 S40 T5 w/140,345 kms on it. Mods can be seen below.

+1 for checking the plugs

Absolutely no need for colder plugs as you will only have more deposit. Stock plugs are fine for that purpose. If you absolutely feel a strong need to use aftermarket plugs you can go with Denso IKH20.

 

[benrpd]

The only codes it's really thrown so far are a misfire in cyl 3 (which my guess is a fluke, as it hasn't happened again) and some secondary ignition coil A one. I talked to one of the guys who works at a local garage and has a volvo himself, he seems to think copper plugs will help as well as the possibility of it being a fuel issue. However when I looked into these cars, they don't have a fuel filter and I figure if the pump was bad it'd fire off a code.

 

[kova]

The only codes it's really thrown so far are a misfire in cyl 3 (which my guess is a fluke, as it hasn't happened again) and some secondary ignition coil A one. I talked to one of the guys who works at a local garage and has a volvo himself, he seems to think copper plugs will help as well as the possibility of it being a fuel issue. However when I looked into these cars, they don't have a fuel filter and I figure if the pump was bad it'd fire off a code.

T5 engine doesn't use copper plugs, you have to use iridium plugs.

Your car has a fuel filter.

Ignition coil in fact may also be the cause of your problems. Your guess about misfire is probably wrong as ECU wouldn't throw a code if several misfires didn't happen.