Brake fluid needs to be replaced every two to three years. I do it every two. It is hydroscopic and on average after two years is already 50% water. That much water in the fluid reduces the boiling point of the fluid as well as causes corrosion throught your brake system.

Not sure about the price though. You can do a lot better at an independent shop.

 

Isn't your car under warranty and the free maintenance schedule? I have a 2013 3.2 and it is covered with warranty and maintenance up to 50k miles

 

Thanks guys. I phoned my usual mechanic and he says the price is really steep. He will take a look and do it for less.

/Nope my car was CPO'd and didn't come with the free maintenance in Canada. I checked.

 

Going rate for that job in the states is around $150-$200 at an indy shop.

 

I think around $150 is what a dealer would charge you in sweden so that sounds fair. I don't know about every two years though. If you drive in fade-prone conditions, then you'd obviously need to do it more often. Track days, mountain driving etc. But otherwise I think three years should be fine, perhaps even four?

On another note, I went over my service records and I can't see any records of the brake fluid ever being changed on my 2007 S80. I dearly hope it has been but I'll be having it done my next service regardless. Haven't had any issues in the 1600 km of various (and some "inspired) driving. I've never had brakes fade but I guess that under normal conditions it'd be gradual, not a complete and sudden loss of brakes.


Edit: T501: 50% water after two years? I'm not so sure about that. I know for a fact my old 244 hasn't had the brake fluid changed in at least 6-7 years (probably longer) so that'd be, what? If I did the math right, 0.5^6, then that'd leave me with 1,5% of brake fluid and the rest would be water.

 

Is this a hard job to do yourself? Any tips? Does VIDA make it easier, like changing rear brakes?

thx for any insight you may have!

 

I bled the brakes on a 1965 Volvo amazon once. Admittedly it was the first time doing any sort of brake job but I thought that was both tricky and tiresome enough for me to probably not bother with it. I know newer Volvos got multiple bleeding points per caliper later on and I'd dare say that still is the case today. If you have the time and desire to save the $200 bucks, yes. For one thing you'll need to know in which order to bleed each side and in which order to use each bleed point. And secondly I think there are devices you can plug onto the fluid reservoir that'll pressurize it, eliminating the need for someone pumping the brakes (or at least making the job easier? not sure). I'd check the cost on one of those too.

 

look at videos on the web. A power bleeder is about $50-$60. I recruit my wife or my daughter. It only takes about a minute for them to get the routine - Down - Hold - Up - Down... I do it when I am switching winter to summer tires, but not every two years on my street car, every year on my track car per club rules.

 

To make it easy to do it yourself, you'll need a power bleeder like this:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4678/109285-motive-power-brake-pressure-bleeder

One of these bottles is nice to have as well:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4679/111342-motive-power-brake-bleeder-catch-bottle

It's also better for keeping air out of the system than the two man operation.

Bleeding brakes with a power bleeder is one of the easiest jobs you'll ever do on a Volvo, unless you consider jacking up the car and removing the wheels difficult, in that case you should pay someone else to do it.

 

Very easy with a Motive. I do it every 2-4 years. I go back and forth between ATE super blue and SL6 as the color change makes it easy to see. Total cost with buying a motive, adapter and fluid should be less than an indie cost for service. Should be a good write up here or if not I know there is for sure on Matthews.


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Very easy with a Motive. I do it every 2-4 years. I go back and forth between ATE super blue and SL6 as the color change makes it easy to see. Total cost with buying a motive, adapter and fluid should be less than an indie cost for service. Should be a good write up here or if not I know there is for sure on Matthews.

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ATE super blue is no more! The color was not DOT authorized. All we can get in the states is the orange ATE 2000. Sucks!

Also, I have a mighty vac, and I prefer the motiv.

 

Well that sucks...


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I do RR LR RF LF longest to shortest. Is the LF shorter than the LR?

 

Since the brake fluid reservoir is closest to the driver's side (left hand drive markets), I assume LF is the shortest line.