Personally, I'd bypass that **** and make one without it. That being said, Alternator output is what, 150Amps maximum, so it'd have to be rated for that. I've shorted the alternator wire out on the engine before and it didn't blow the fuse pulling maximum power from the battery, so I have no idea how your fuse managed to blow itself up. Maybe sustained or got water damage or something. that's wild.

 

No I was drunk while working on my car and connected the ground wire to the starter by accident

But you are right im just going to make a new cable without a fuse in it

 

I agree. While a main fuse is not a bad idea, plenty of cars don't have one. Audi, for one, commonly runs a large battery cable right to the interior junction terminal and even continues on to things like the ignition switch and headlamp switches, with no fuses at all. I always wondered how they got away with that.

That said, if you wanted one of those fuses, it looks like this shorter cable section is for sale for about $30 - from which you could harvest the fuse and possibly transfer it to your cable.

Volvo part number 30668096.

 

I agree. While a main fuse is not a bad idea, plenty of cars don't have one. Audi, for one, commonly runs a large battery cable right to the interior junction terminal and even continues on to things like the ignition switch and headlamp switches, with no fuses at all. I always wondered how they got away with that.

That said, if you wanted one of those fuses, it looks like this shorter cable section is for sale for about $30 - from which you could harvest the fuse and possibly transfer it to your cable.

Volvo part number 30668096.

I saw that wire but i dont think its the same amperage and also i dont know if you can actually remove that fuse for sure. I would prefer to have a fuse but it would have to be something in line, i dont want open terminals in that area of the engine bay, too much stuff going on

this one might work... https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAR-STEREO...IO-12V-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-FUSE-INLINE-FITS-4-8-GAUGE-WIRE-120-AMP-US-/222336684073

Its really good that fuse was in there or the battery would have probably exploded, those two wires are right next to eachother and both reach to the starter... add that into having the car taken apart for 2-3 weeks while i was busy with other stuff and i just messed up and put both the wires on the starter terminal.

 

Or, if you are inclined to WUI there's always a 120A circuit breaker

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-C...ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516832205&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=120a+breaker&psc=1

 

Not a bad idea, there.

Actually, like I was saying before, Audi doesn't have any circuit protection like this. One of the forum members on Audizine.com found this out the hard way. He did basically exactly the same as you: Bolted the positive wire to a ground location. When he connected his battery it melted the wire and caught his car on fire. The fire department was *at his house* because there was no main fuse. Luckily the car was outside, but if it was in the garage, he may have lost his entire house.

 

speaking of this, I was wondering, does anyone know of any 3 way 00AWG connectors? I have been trying to figure out a way to make my battery connection waterproof, but I seem to be coming up dry (ha).

 

Old post but whatever. Uncle was a mechanic back in the day. To reduce oxidation on battery terminals disconnect termina. Clean off contact surfaces; battery post and inside of cable terminal ,(steel wool or medium sandpaper will do the job). Apply Vaseline to the inside of the terminal and reconnect. You have it. A n oxidation resistant connection.
Note: hydro companies use a variation on this technique to control connections of buried power lines. It is very difficult to keep water out of a junction for dozens of years.They have water resistant boxes fill with a heavy grease-like product inside the box that keeps moisture that gets in the box (and it does get in) away from the connection

 

Finally...I started the search up again. Also they have some interested 250A+ inline breakers that would do you good too if you wanted them to. What I have been searching to connect and waterproof my battery connector is called a 2/0 Distribution Block. Freakin awesome, finally.

 

Lol I was kidding about the circuit breaker, probably a little overkill as after that excitement I doubt you'll make that mistake again... For serious, get an ANL fuse block and put it where the factory fuse was. Something like
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/142624101773
Or whatever. I wouldn't trust the alan key style terminations myself, your best bet is to put some ring terminals on there. You don't need a special crimper, just squash it in a vice (or use a hammer). Heat shrink tubing will give it an more finished look.

 

I have an extra whole wire assembly laying around. PM me if you still need that wire.

 

I was saying Reversed Polarity , as Finished reading First Post , so +1 on the others that said it first , don't get Here Often .
Should Be a Nice Used one laying around Many Yards , Especially the Yards that are selling Engines on E-bay .
I'd go to Yard that allows You to Pull the Parts Yourself . ( We start up - Used Parts - List )

 

I recently had a similar problem with the car side of the positive battery cable where it was getting really hot then it would kill all power to the car for 5 minutes (until it cooled down) could also replicate by pulling up on the red lead on the way to the engine bay fuse panel. Cable is going to take 7 days to get here! Had to bypass the faulty section - used a pole grounding clamp a 125amp inline fuse and a battery cable bolted to existing connections.

 

Where did you get hold of that clamp for the cable? looks special

 

I know this is an old thread, but figured I'd give my 2¢...

When re-installing the battery after replacing my serpentine belt the other day I heard an audible "CLICK!" when manipulating my positive battery terminal wire. I didn't think much of it until I was driving the following day and my car all of a sudden lost power... Dash lights, engine, ignition, everything!!! I was dead in the water. After poking around I had a flashback to the audible "CLICK!" from the day prior, and then preceded to jostle the positive lead from the battery and my car gained power again! Suspicious but hopeful, I then wedged the positive lead against the battery case to keep it from moving around and drove back home.

I rang the fuse out with an ohmmeter and found that it had continuity, but after bending it ever so slightly, it became an open circuit. After tearing the plastic cover off of it, I found that the eutectic part of the fuse had mechanically separated from the battery side of the terminal (sorry I was in a rush to fix it and forgot to take a picture, I hope you can visualize what I'm saying). It had not melted due to a ground fault or short circuit... Being a Sunday I was desperate to get the car fixed and administered the below for less than $15 and some power tools! I'm happy with it.

Just so you don't think I'm a complete jamoke, I took a caliper to the wire and figured it was 1 AWG MTW. Did a little prodding and found this chart:

(Source Website: batterycablesusa)

Here's a BOM if you want to save yourself $90 + shipping + a few days to get the OEM parts:

-(1x) 8 x 1.25 @12mm long
-(1x) 8 x 1.25 nut
-(1x) 8mm wavy washer
-(1x) 32V 175A fuse (p/n: 0MEG175.XP) - (I only measured 64amps with the AC, lights, and radio on; No need to go with a 200A fuse)

Personally, I'm leaving it as shown. Someone had replaced the other fuse with the OEM repair kit and I don't like the fact that it requires splicing in the OEM part with a butt-splice; It's an extra thing that could fail or become an issue later on. Especially when it's a thing that gives power to the entire car and I have to drive an hour home from work to pick my daughter up from daycare... With this setup, I can rest assured that this (or a similar) fuse is available at any automotive store if, for whatever reason It breaks again.... or worst case, I can easily bypass it temporarily by bolting the cable straight to the battery terminal.

I hope this helps someone!

Cheers,

-Joe

 

I know this is an old thread, but figured I'd give my 2¢...

When re-installing the battery after replacing my serpentine belt the other day I heard an audible "CLICK!" when manipulating my positive battery terminal wire. I didn't think much of it until I was driving the following day and my car all of a sudden lost power... Dash lights, engine, ignition, everything!!! I was dead in the water. After poking around I had a flashback to the audible "CLICK!" from the day prior, and then preceded to jostle the positive lead from the battery and my car gained power again! Suspicious but hopeful, I then wedged the positive lead against the battery case to keep it from moving around and drove back home.

I rang the fuse out with an ohmmeter and found that it had continuity, but after bending it ever so slightly, it became an open circuit. After tearing the plastic cover off of it, I found that the eutectic part of the fuse had mechanically separated from the battery side of the terminal (sorry I was in a rush to fix it and forgot to take a picture, I hope you can visualize what I'm saying). It had not melted due to a ground fault or short circuit... Being a Sunday I was desperate to get the car fixed and administered the below for less than $15 and some power tools! I'm happy with it.
View attachment 199895

Just so you don't think I'm a complete jamoke, I took a caliper to the wire and figured it was 1 AWG MTW. Did a little prodding and found this chart:
View attachment 199896
(Source Website: batterycablesusa)

Here's a BOM if you want to save yourself $90 + shipping + a few days to get the OEM parts:

-(1x) 8 x 1.25 @12mm long
-(1x) 8 x 1.25 nut
-(1x) 8mm wavy washer
-(1x) 32V 175A fuse (p/n: 0MEG175.XP) - (I only measured 64amps with the AC, lights, and radio on; No need to go with a 200A fuse)

Personally, I'm leaving it as shown. Someone had replaced the other fuse with the OEM repair kit and I don't like the fact that it requires splicing in the OEM part with a butt-splice; It's an extra thing that could fail or become an issue later on. Especially when it's a thing that gives power to the entire car and I have to drive an hour home from work to pick my daughter up from daycare... With this setup, I can rest assured that this (or a similar) fuse is available at any automotive store if, for whatever reason It breaks again.... or worst case, I can easily bypass it temporarily by bolting the cable straight to the battery terminal.

I hope this helps someone!

Cheers,

-Joe

Thank you for bumping this old thread. Wish I had seen this before I replaced my battery and auxiliary battery though.

I also wish Volvo would have made a replaceable 150 amp fuse instead of that proprietary one.