You know what to do.

But, I'm not sure why you're seeking the uninformed opinions of non-technical "internet experts" who think their vehicle ownership priorities always align with the manufacturer.

 

Generally want to take two consecutive oil change samples to draw conclusions, unless something horribly wrong. If the 0w20 has greater cleaning properties, for example, it could be cleaning out some of the residue from previous oil change cycles.

Are you still under warranty? If not, then IMO use whatever u feel like using as long as it meets some of the more stringent European specs. Personally, I would use Mobil 1 0w40 in almost any gas engine as it’s widely available, meets some of the toughest specs from Porsche/MB/etc, and is a nice middle ground in terms of weight (thin 40wt that quickly shears to a thick 30wt and then holds viscosity). I’m sure many of you would disagree. If under warranty use whatever fits manufacturer specs, and change more frequently if you feel oil isn’t adequate.

 

Some people can't stop washing their hands or checking that the doors are locked. I would take a nap.

 

How much money are these analysis costing you?
For rotating equipment in a Nuclear Power Plant we analyzed oil samples periodically for all equipment.
We had dedicated Engineers that had data on bearing composition of all individual equipment from manufacture certs.
We also looked for contaminants and water.
Most rotating equipment got fossil lubricants but Reactor Coolant Pumps got synthetics.
I got all the reports to review and have oil changes or bearing inspections conducted.
All your getting is analysis and hand waving.
I have had 4 Volvo's, 2 I junked and two I still run, a 2003 XC and 2011 XC.
Both get yearly syn oil changes with no analysis.
I sleep very nicely at night and certainly would not consider dumping the vehicle.
I have seen Porsche owners also obsess and worry about oil analysis.
-Richard

 

It doesn't cost much at $25 per analysis. Also, I enjoy doing this since I was an engineer at one point and am naturally just curious. Thus, it's not a "waste of money" to me. But, more importantly, it already saved me A LOT OF MONEY already preventing catastrophic engine failure with one of our other cars. Look what a sudden spike in a certain metal led to to double check...

Broken bolt from inside engine and found in oil pan

A similar oil report in an Infiniti (Nissan VQ35 if I recall correctly) engine gave us a heads up that the engine was not built to last. And apparently, a good amount of them die after 100k miles. The german engines in our other cars appear to be bullet proof. We even took an Audi to 297k miles and the engine leak down test were all within 4% of each other. This is my first intro to a Volvo engine and it's not looking good...at all.

 

The poll needs one more option:
4. Follow Volvo recommendations for oil type and change frequency. Check the oil level periodically and save money by not paying for oil analyses.

 

Ok, smart ass. Check the previous post and get an education. The oil was changed as per Volvo recommendations. Also, how do you suppose one would check the oil perdiocially if it didn't have a dipstick? The oil can only be "checked" via the electronic level on the Sensus - noted to be unreliable. Any more brilliant suggestions?

 

Folks, dunno what to make of this... I do an oil report with each oil change. This is the first oil change with the 0W20 since Volvo changed the requirement from 5W30 which is what I used up to 60k miles. Now that I hit 70k miles, this is the oil report - doesn't look as good as the previous ones. Of course, I have 0W20 in the engine now. I will take a sample at the 75k mile mark. Note that there was NO oil leak or oil consumption at all during the 60k to 70k mileage. Car runs great, otherwise. Of concern is the doubling of the iron content, fuel dilution and silver content. I'm wondering if the fuel dilution is due to me changing the oil with the engine cold right after startup. I.e. - I started the car when cold and drove it up onto my lift to change the oil. @Tech if I drove around for a while to warm up the engine, would it have made a difference?

So... the million $ question... Should I go back to 5W30 since it appears to have offered better protection?

Should I dump it and jump on the electric bandwagon? lol!

Your thoughts?

View attachment 151985

I'm gonna go on a whim and recommend using Castrol Edge Pro 0W20. The results in both the 2017 (after switching from A5/B5 5w30) and the 2021 are looking very good. Better than Pennzoil and Amsoil (at least in terms of flashpoint and all metals). Also, yeah, I'd drive it to operating temperature before hand. Even open it up a little to get the turbo spooling up. Fill up the container after about half comes out.

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I'm gonna go on a whim and recommend using Castrol Edge Pro 0W20. The results in both the 2017 (after switching from A5/B5 5w30) and the 2021 are looking very good. Better than Pennzoil and Amsoil (at least in terms of flashpoint and all metals). Also, yeah, I'd drive it to operating temperature before hand. Even open it up a little to get the turbo spooling up. Fill up the container after about half comes out.

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All my other cars use either Castrol or Mobil 1. But I couldn't find Castrol Pro 0W20. I assume you got yours at the dealer? Dealer will not sell to me or it's way overpriced from them.